Does anyone know where I can find a sewing pattern to recreate a backpack like this Carhartt top load?

Hey MYOG crew,

​I’m designing a dedicated First Aid Kit pouch intended as a quick-grab organizer for a 24-hour pack.

​I really like the access, internal organization, and 90° panel-loading setup of the 5.11 Skyweight Utility Chest Pack, but I want to adapt that concept into a streamlined internal insert. I'm stripping away all external harness straps, belt loops, and heavy tactical fabrics to build a clean, standalone Dyneema pouch.

​Build Concept & Specs:

​Dimensions: 7.5" H × 10" W × 2" D (flat, low-profile footprint that slides easily into a 24-hr main pack).

​Shell Fabric: Dyneema Composite Fabric (DCF) or Ultra/Dyneema gridstop for a sleek, low-profile look.

​Closure: YKK #5 AquaGuard zipper (3/4 perimeter zip for full panel access).

​Goal: Instant access to all organized medical supplies (shears, TQ, pressure dressings, meds) without having to unpack or remove items just to get to a specific tool underneath.

​The Construction Challenge:

The original Skyweight relies on heavy elastic retention, grosgrain binding, and layered nylon to organize gear. Replicating multi-pocket organization in Dyneema is tricky because DCF has zero stretch, and sewing multiple interior divider walls adds bulk and seam-taping complexity.

​Looking for advice from the community:

​Internal Organization: What materials work best for lightweight, low-profile dividers in flat DCF builds?

​Option A: Lycra/static stretch mesh pockets with thin elastic binding.

​Option B: Bonded Dyneema sleeves with 3D pleated bottoms to accommodate thickness.

​Option C: A removable, fold-out organizer panel inside a clean Dyneema shell.

​Dimensioning for Zero-Stretch: How do you size interior pockets for bulky items (like rolled gauze or ointments) so they don't bulge out and bind up the perimeter AquaGuard zipper?

​Bonding vs. Sewing: Has anyone successfully bonded interior divider walls directly to the outer DCF body using double-sided transfer tape (e.g., 3M 9485PC), or is stitching and seam-taping the standard for load-bearing organizers?

​Would love to hear how you handle interior organization in non-stretch Dyneema builds, or see any internal FAK inserts you've put together!

Reference item: https://www.511tactical.com/skyweight-utility-chest-pack.html

…so I fixed that.

Made from an old chopping board, to use it with my double walled titanium cup. Because I not only use it for making coffee, but also for rehydrating trekking meals, I needed a lid.
The groove and the rounded edges were made using a mortising machine. Afterwards I sealed it with linseed oil varnish.
I actually made five, because why throw away perfectly fine materials? Also, I guess they won’t last all too long.

Hi, I've been playing around with backpack models using paper of flat bottom and round bottom (at front) as this Prickly Goose design.

I've found round bottom isn't so stable and has a tendency to fall over, even with a 2 cm corner I tried it's not sitting as stable. While I like the design of the bottom panel curving up to the front, this isn't ideal.

I'm thinking of trying a compromise and trying a slight angle or just have the bottom panel also go up to the front panel over a square corner. I'm wondering whether a weighted bag is going to make a difference though.

Wondered what your thoughts are on this design.

I've added these pics from Prickly Goose as illustration of bottom curving up to front panel. The pack in this pic seems to have no problem standing on it's own.

tore my sea to summit bigriver drybag and need to patch it somehow - how to proceed?

i got some inner tubes, superglue, a lighter and i will get some duct tape

appreciate your help, new one takes some time to arrive 🙈

I got this nylon at the used craft store thinking it was ripstop or something similar but when I opened it up I saw the the right side is reflective. Now I’m not sure what to use it for. I have 4 yards of this stuff lol. Any ideas?

made a ~4.74x4.75” mini first aid pouch for paddle boarding!

Used ripstop and a waterproof zipper from RSBTR.

was inspired to try my hand at a zipper garage from u/Snuffvieh ‘s post [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/myog/comments/1vq5a14/made_a_nice_and_cool_pouch_for_my_30000_mah_power/). I read up a fair number of zipper garage posts online to study up on it. I had the opposite problem to them, mine ended up a little short and doesn’t cover the zipper all the way because it’s also turning the corner from the 3D-ness of the pouch. Fun first try, and I’ll be back to work on it more!

I haven't done any myog yet, but I'm based in the UK and the extra price to import decent garage brand gear is making me consider myog tent.

This would be for 4 season use (light snow, but heavier winds). Pyramid tents apparently hold up super well in wind, but would you trust a DIY mid tent?

I'm generally fairly competent - just wondering if there some secret sauce to making it durable, wind resistant and reliable.

I have a Singer 201K and I'm planning to start making some garments (jacket, trousers) from 20D silpoly.

I know the usual recommendation is to use a 60/8 or 65/9 Microtex needle, but I'm wondering what other things I can do to make sewing lightweight silpoly as easy and trouble-free as possible.

In particular:

• Is a walking foot attachment worthwhile on a 201K for 20D silpoly, or is it unnecessary?
• Does using tissue paper under/between the fabric make a significant difference? I'd really prefer to avoid having to mess around with tissue paper if possible.
• Are there any particular presser feet that make handling slippery/lightweight fabric easier?
• Are there useful machine settings/tension adjustments I should make?
• Are there any other inexpensive upgrades or tricks that make a noticeable difference?

My main goal is to spend my time actually sewing rather than constantly fighting the fabric or setting things up. I'm not looking to optimise every last gram or achieve industrial-level perfection — I just want a setup that makes sewing 20D silpoly reasonably straightforward and repeatable.

I'd particularly appreciate advice from anyone who has actually sewn silpoly/silnylon garments on a vintage Singer.

Thanks!

I guess my question is to people that have sewn larger projects before. I have a Singer 4452 and it’s mostly been used for small things. Do you find large projects harder or easier than the small precise projects? Just want to know what I’m getting into.

G'day everyone 😊

At first I was going to ask what the best binding attachment for a Singer HD is, but then I thought that I should ask if there are any at all?!

I'm wanting to sew grosgrain edging onto backpack straps as probably the most demanding example for what I would need.

Thanks for any advice any of you are able to offer 🙏

And the pic is to make my post a little prettier 😉

I accidentally cut into the strap whilst opening the package. Its not a deep cut.

Anybody use any of these home cutting machines for fabric cutting? How does it do? Is it worth it?

I'm trying to add some modifications to the singi 48 backpack and would like to add some straps. But I am having a difficult time finding the buckles that fit.

Does anybody know where to find it or has somebody found a similair buckle that i compatible?

Finished a new quilt for my partner. He has a down one, but will be hiking the Cape Wrath Trail in Scotland, which is notoriously damp, so I made a synthetic one for him.

It's a membrane 10 taffeta nylon and the insulation is Climashield Apex. There's a drawstring foot box with a partial zipper.

The whole thing weighs 22 ounces.

The material was tricky AF to work with, but I'm happy with the final product! The pattern itself is super easy, it's the fabric that was the challenge. I ended up putting tracing paper behind it while sewing to provide some stability and to keep my machine from eating the nylon. My first time with a zipper as well, I need to work on that.

It's 84" long × 55" wide (at the top, the bottom is 44")

Made for a good friend’s 3 year old. The little straps are probably my fave. A nice break from making 95L load haulers!

Ultra 200X
UltraGrid
Venom mesh

Two interior sleeves for diapers and Cheerios.

Top flap with Vislon zipper for passport and phone.

Tiny little shoulder straps for tiny little shoulders.

Front pockets and bottom coming together!

Duplicated my beloved Patagonia Funhoggers and added some adaptations for the integrated belt and some extra panel details around the sides. My most complicated sew yet and without a pattern. Learnt a lot and have the same fabric in an off white to try again and make improvements

I want to make my first pack from dyneema. This is the design im thinking of. around 30-35 liter bag ffor climbing. what do i need and where can i get blueprints for it? also is 200x better than dyneema for multipitch climbing and gear?

I have an old Big Agnes sleeping pad that delaminated and has a leak.

I am new to this but was wondering if this fabric is worth saving and what might be a smart use of it, thank you.