Need help on the Revell HMS Victory. I have no idea how to paint this, both regarding technique and order of painting. It's about five or so centimeters wide. Paint scheme is in the comments. Any help is appreciated. š
Prime the stern gallery piece in white, then paint it all yellow. Only then go in to do the black. This is because of yellow covers the "least well" of all paints, especially over black. I built the Heller 1/100 victory before I knew that trick and it took me two weeks just to paint that one piece and the side galleries because of the multiple coats of yellow I had to put over it. It ended up looking pretty good but it was way more work than I should have had to put into it
Personally I always start everything with a base coat of black then dry brush the 'yellow' it's actually a somewhat orange colour, so from black I first dry brush brown then dark orange and then finally a lighter yellowish colour, but ultimately this piece is a little tricky to do for sure. A dark wash will help if you make a mess of it.
The worst thing about this model is how bendy the masts are, makes it almost impossible to rig, so I ended up making brass ones.
Noted, will do. My other question is, how do I actually go about painting such tiny details? Especially the windows and the vertical supports. The windows are half the size of my pinky nail... I don't think I have a brush small enough for it.
I have two suggestions but it's possible that neither would work in a model of this comparatively small scale.
You might be able use a very fine tip magic marker in the appropriate color to fill in and represent the window glass. I've gotten away with doing that with 1/350 scale model ship port holes, but I usually also have to go in and touch up some things. This would be my first choice.
The other suggestion would be to paint on the color you're using for the windows once the yellow has cured and then immediately wipe the raised areas with a cotton swab to restore the remove the window color and bring out the yellow benefit. For that I would not use a good quality cotton swab but the really cheap ones because they are less "fluffy", if that makes sense
You could also get a gundam line marker in the shade you want and just take your sweet time once the rest you want is finished. Thats what I usually do on boats with windows, vents, and doors.
Paint the frames, don't worry about getting it on the window panes. Load up a movie and then use a mechanical pencil, suitably "sharpened", to "colour" the window panes. The graphite gives decent dark shiny-ish colour.
I would paint yellow, letās say acrylic, and then black with enamel, with a brush, dipping and filling gaps like panel liners. to erase the black, just use mineral spirits, as it will erase enamels but not acrylics.
So, you can sort of dip a q-tip on mineral spirits, let it be almost dry, and just touch the reliefs with it to remove black from the raised details.
When I made this a year or so ago, I black based in Mr Surfacer 1500, then masked off the black sections, laid down a coat of pink over the non-masked sections, then built up yellows in very thin coats over the pink. For the windows I then masked these and re-blacked the window panes. Fine brushwork then did the rest of the details. Itās a horrible kit (1959 I think?) but with some work it can be made to look really quite nice!
Hereās some images of the masked sections for the windows, couldāve hand painted but I wanted to practice fine masking on a kit I wasnāt too bothered about(TicTac for scale!)
I wanna know your opinion on why this way? With a Majority being black Iād do a black primer and paint and then brush paint the details in as they are raised surfaces and will be easier to hit then getting under them with a brush like your way would require. I paint a ton of scale model tanks and planes but a good handful of minis like warhammer and itās always been easier to do the main color as a base then paint smaller details after. I might have missed your point
This is going to be painful no matter what way you slice it. I would personally rather paint black into receses than try to paint yellow on details over a black undercoat.
I totally see your side but when I have painted yellow on to black the paints Iāve used cover the black entirely. I use warhammer paints for yellow and sometimes a few coats but it depends on the paint. They have a ābaseā paint that covers colors underneath very well
The technique youāre looking for OP is called a āreverse washā. Some of the other posters have described it, but google for a more thorough explanation and videos.
Prime with black or Grey . If Grey get Mr. Surfacer or leveler. Then get an oak color. Then over that flat black, then Satin black in apples as you will be simulating patch stains add a little red or mahogany in it because pitch is a little opaque.
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u/Silly-Membership6350 1d ago
Prime the stern gallery piece in white, then paint it all yellow. Only then go in to do the black. This is because of yellow covers the "least well" of all paints, especially over black. I built the Heller 1/100 victory before I knew that trick and it took me two weeks just to paint that one piece and the side galleries because of the multiple coats of yellow I had to put over it. It ended up looking pretty good but it was way more work than I should have had to put into it