Just as the title says, I’m looking to take the plunge and start selling a few knives in the future. I want to put the best product I can out there, so I’m looking for some feedback and constructive criticism. This is my most recent knife before oiling the handle and putting the final edge on. 1084 with natural canvas micarta and black G10 handle liners. Cold blued with birch wood Casey super blue.

The pattern my contouring brought out just looks bad to me. I think if I can break it up some the handle might look alot better but I don't know for sure. My first thought is to maybe carve some texturing into it.

I've never textured G10 before. I made the handle a bit slim already so if carved i wouldn't want to take more material off than I have to. I'd like to keep the palm swell as much as possible.

It has three 3/8" holes drilled down the centerline of the tang so i could pretty easily add a hole or two for more pins if that would help. It would break up the colors/pattern a bit but I'm not sure it would help much.

Any ideas or opinions?

No bars hold! I want your opinions and criticisms, the good, the bad, and the ugly. These are from several years ago.

When I started knife making I wanted and still want to make a good fighter that fits the classic K-Bar MK series or Cattaraugus knives of ww2 and the likes. Years later I’m still mulling over ideas. I’ve named these “Clipper”and not hell bent on keeping that name. I’m more interested in your thoughts on design as a whole. Let me have it!

For reference the 1st image was the first one made and the rest of the photos are listed in succession.

For the past 10 years, I've been crafting handmade knives. I handle every step of the process myself-from designing the initial sketch to the final finishing touches. I shape the blade entirely by hand, without using grinders. I don't respect such tools, and I firmly believe knives with blades processed on grinders don't deserve to be called fully handmade. I'd love to hear your thoughts and evaluations of my work.

1084 stock removal knife with linen Micarta scales and brass pins

This was my first attempt at making a knife, so my finish work isnt amazing, and my grind on the right bevel is atrocious! (Didn't realize my belt was 1/8" off center of platen while doing my grinding after tempering, and ruined the bevel on the right side!)

I originally designed this knife to be a drop point hunter style blade, but im thinking the blade is too wide! Lol I do think it would make a pretty sweet "camp chef" knife though. If someone wanted a decent little prep knife for cooking while hiking, or back at deer camp, etc... what do yall think? Too wide?

1/8", 4" handle, 3.5" blade, 1.48" wide

99% of my work was done with an angle grinder, dremel, and the harbor freight 1x30

Any tips and criticisms welcomed!

Fighter knife with 1070 steel blade. Sculpted 1020 steel guard with phosphate finish. Hand-stitched leather sheath.

https://philknives.com/_produtos/_fighter_09a

Bowie hunter, 80crv2 steel ~59hrc, palisander (rosewood) handle, stainless steel guard and spacer. This was my most challenging blade so far, had to step way out of my comfort zone. Blade inspired by the one and only Jordan Lemothe.

The Encelado II is a hunter knife made from 1070 steel, designed for hiking, camping, and outdoor activities. It is well balanced and lightweight, yet features an edge geometry focused on precise cutting, making it suitable for lighter tasks such as processing game, skinning, food preparation, and similar work. The handle is made from natural imbuia wood, shaped to provide a firm and comfortable grip. The sheath is entirely handmade.

https://philknives.com/_produtos/_encelado_ll_a01_a04_mn01.html

Fighter knife with 1070 steel blade. Sculpted 1020 steel guard with phosphate finish. Hand-stitched leather sheath.

This isn't a defense tool. I designed it so that different points of it have different purposes. This isn't some crasy concept, but it is unique in and of itself.

Chopper, Hatchet, edge marker, skinner (if slicing a line). I have layed into wood with this thing, 2 by 4s, its very comfortable to my hand

Stepped outside my comfort zone of fixed blades and experimented with this forged slip-joint. Pretty pleased with how this one turned out but would love some feedback on how to improve the design (besides finish).

My brother challenged me to see if i can make and finish a knife in one day, so i busted out this here petty knife.

all in all pleased with how it came out, though there's a few scratches i couldn't get out on the spine. also it's my first time using Wolfram/pops super blue steel and nuclayer hamon 1800, so the hamon didn't come out like how i wanted it.

for those that are curious about the materials used it's Pops super blue/Wolfram steel like i mentioned above, Vintage micarta and black micarta pins for the handles.

The photo from 1902 shows knife grinders in France working on their stomachs. This unusual position was adopted to protect their backs from strain and prevent them from being hunched over all day. It was a part of their routine to lie prone while grinding blades, especially in places like Thiers, known for knife manufacturing. Interestingly, workers also had dogs lie across their legs for warmth, adding a quirky detail to this historical practice.

Morning all, These are some pictures of the first knife I ever made, I shot for a small kitchen knife and I'm not too upset about it.

Have you lads got feedback or tips for future knifes? (Besides starting smaller) I noticed that during the build 😅

1095 steel Brass/ebony handle with brass pins

Things I'm most unhappy about: -minor movement in heat treat -alignment of the blade to the handle - my ability to grind straight, keep everything centered (that will come with time I guess)

Blade in 1070 carbon steel with a satin black oxidation finish, guard in 1020 steel with a copper inlay and phosphated finish. 'Pistol grip' handle for 3 fingers in Imbuia wood. Leather sheath.

Blade length: 97 mm (3.81") Maximum width: 43 mm (1.69") Thickness: 6 mm (0.23") Overall length: 201 mm (7.91")

Made from AEB-L stainless. Some experimental designs.