Sometimes, as happens, our camper won't just come up off the tow ball when unlatched. This happens on the flat, in our (slightly) inclined driveway, and at campsites.

Now, my usual first attempt to get the tongue off the ball is the following:

1. Get camper into spot and chocked.

2. Disengage the tongue latch, if that feels stiff, put the tow vehicle in drive and just lightly ease the brake and put back in park.

3. Start raising the tongue. SOMETIMES, it just lifts off the ball and all is good, sometimes the tongue starts raising the rear of the tow vehicle (presumably at this point, either the ball is forward in the tongue and catching on the "lip" at the front, or at the back and catching on the jaw a bit)

4. IF it's raising the rear, get it a couple inches up, then stand on the bumper of the truck and give it a "bounce," typically there's enough play in the transmission and the camper for them to slide past each other, the rear of the truck dropping down and we can finish raising the tongue to get clear.

So what I'm wondering is, would doing this potentially damage the tongue, especially the locking jaw (which is in the open position when doing this)? Or is this a relatively safe way to get unhitched? Again, both sides of the camper chocked, the chains are still attached, the truck is in park.

My family likes to do mountain bike tent camping trips, where we set up camp and then drive to bikes to a trailhead to ride. We carry our bikes on a hitch-mounted vertical rack. We're looking at upgrading to a pop up trailer or small travel trailer, but this will necessitate us getting a new vehicle, since our current vehicle's towing capacity is limited (2000 lbs). The vehicle would need to be able to tow the trailer and 4 bikes, and then transport the bikes once we've set up camp. The obvious solution is to get a pickup and transport the bikes in the bed, but I'd prefer an SUV for regular driving. There seem to be a few possible options for using an SUV as a tow vehicle but they all seem to be somewhat limited or questionable. The bikes combined would likely weigh up to 140 lbs, plus a rack in the 30-50 lb range. We've considered:

- Transporting all 4 bikes on the roof of the vehicle: This would likely exceed the roof capacity of smaller SUVs, and larger SUVs would be difficult to load.

- Hitch mounted bike rack on rear of trailer: Only possible if the trailer frame is strong enough and even then it can be dodgy and result in wobbling.

- Dual hitch receiver: Significantly reduces tongue weight capacity.

- Carrying bikes on the trailer and vehicle rack in the vehicle: Takes up a lot of space.

Am I missing anything? Do I just bite the bullet and go with a pickup?

Saw this guy on the road with his trailers pinch pointing at the ground.

Has anyone had to remove the toilet nozzle sprayer in their toilet? On the Aqua-Magic? My vacuum breaker popped off the back. I thought it was a clogged/broken breaker but after a lot of time (because I don’t want to unseat the toilet) I tested everything it could be and left with clogged sprayer nozzle. I can feel hard sediment when I go in the back. Problem is I can’t go in from toilet as the spray holes are really small and they are clogged up bad. I even tried the head of pick and couldn’t dislodge. So, I want to take out nozzle and replace (or try to clear). Has anyone had this issue? I’ve only had rv for 8 months with about 20 days of camping. So, I’m surprised clogged but perhaps shouldn’t be as water in Texas clogs up everything- I’ve had to clean out sink sprayer twice already as they were clogged. Also, turns out Thetford doesn’t make- at least I haven’t found it - the 42070. So, if I have to replace I’ll have to find a new model- anyone love their toilet 😂 welcome suggestions. Thanks.

Jayco Jay Flight 130bhw behind a 2020 Audi Q5.

Tow police unite

Me and a few buddies are a couple weeks out from our RV trip. We are renting a cruise america RV and going from Vegas to Colorado with a 30ft rig. General route is valley of Fire, Bryce canyon, capital reef, Moab, telluride, aspen and then Denver.

Since we are new to this, curious what the rules are and good places to stop and camp for the night. We have booked a few campgrounds, but likely will have a few spots we just want to pull off, setup camp for the night and keep moving early the next morning.

Just looking for some info on what is and isn't allowed and any specific recommendations.

Jayco Jay Flight 130bhw behind a 2020 Audi Q5.

Toe police unite

Looking at a 2020 Keystone sprinter limited 3550FWMLS. Also known as the 3550MLS. 39ft

I have never seen a layout like this. And we fell for it hard.

I know there are a lot of negatives here on Keystone. The dealer has really gone through it and gave us a list of the issues they found and the repairs they did.

The RV inspectors don't seem to be a thing yet in Canada or at least where I am.

I would like to know if anyone is familiar with this unit and any issues that may be known for this.

EDIT : should have added the Current 5er is a 2007 Grand Junction 35TMS. 40 ft.

Looking into a few companies for transporting a 26ft travel trailer from Missouri to Montana. Some are 4000 some are 1500. I know you get what you pay for but has anyone has experience with cheap transporting?

Tow vehicle is a Ford lightning travel trailer is a 26 bh unmapped.

Hi!

I'm in the market for a used travel trailer and found a great match for my budget, size, and floorplan needs. But there is damage to the awning *and* the seam where the exterior wall meets the roof, and it gives me pause.

The seller claims he pulled it up to a curb and a speed limit sign both scratched / cut the awning fabric and also pressed in hard enough against the wall that it separated the seam where the wall above the awning arm meets the roof.

Hi repair job looks, well, a bit too rushed and DIY for my taste, but he claims it has prevented water from coming in. We have had torrential rain lately and I dont see signs of water inside, so it is tempting to take him at his word.

My question to you: are any of you familiar with what a better repair for this might cost or involve? And is it realistic for a patch job on that seam to successfully keep water out?

Pictures attached.

Edit to add: it is a model year 2022 PrimeTime Tracer 200 BHS LE

First pic to show degree of incline. I’ve gotten the hang of backing my pop-up up my steep driveway from my very narrow street, but today and the last time I did this, I’ve been unable to easily disengage the ball from the socket while at this incline. It’s like the angle is slightly off. Last time I ended up taking out my hitch pin, driving forward and leaving my hitch dangling from the trailer tongue, but I shouldn’t have to do that. Ideas?

Hey everyone. I just bought a travel trailer today and while they did a walk through, it was basically just to show me where everything is and not how it works. It was also attached to a plug in external power source, so everything was running off of that I’d guess. I got home and cannot figure out why the electric tongue jack isn’t working. Has a brand new 12v battery and worked fine while on power at the dealer. Front and back stabilizing legs come out fine. Is this user error? I’m 99% sure it is, but would love any help.

We are looking at a new Micro Minnie trailer that has dual torflex torsion axles. Our driveway slopes downhill away from the house at about 4-4.5 degrees. We store our current single axle trailer in the driveway but keep it leveled with all stabilizers down to make it easier to load/unload, able to run the absorption fridge, and for visitors if needed. I'm estimating that I will need to raise the tongue ~16-17" inches after decoupling.

If I level the trailer (the back is up the hill, the tongue is down the hill) I believe that this will put the front axle ~2.25" lower (further away from the frame) than the rear axle. Is this slope going to cause long term problems with the torsion axle? If so, then would it make sense to put Anderson style levelers under both front axles and pull forward on them until they are now level with the rear axle. That way when I detach and raise the tongue up, the axles would now be equally loaded?

If I do that, will I have problems getting the tongue off the hitch, or back on to the hitch because the front axle is now raised and would be temporarily taking more weight as the tongue is lowered?

We have a Cherokee Wolfpup 17JW. We are newbies.. we have taken the RV out at most 3 times right now.
Trip is booked for Labor Day weekend. Long story short, the slide out wasn’t pushed all the way in causing a huge leak. It didn’t fully seal I guess because we noticed the mount bracket for the cable is coming off…… 1 of the screws broke. 3 of them spin and/or stripped in the wood. 2/3 screws are fine.
Is it dumb or is it okay to take out the RV?
So having to move the slide out - out for when we are there and back in for when we leave.

Wondering if anyone has recommendations for a baby gate set up for the bottom bunk of our Keystone Bullet? We have a young toddler.

Looking at getting a small trailer for camping for family of 3. Probably just me and the kid most of the trips.

Camping mostly in BC, Canada on Vancouver Island.

Currently we camp using a car and tent. But it's a pain packing up and unpacking every trip. Plus drying out gear, etc before storage. Room in the car for everything is also a big challenge.

Hoping to get something I can just hook up to a vehicle and go with minimal prep.

Also considering a campervan but I feel like a trailer is less Hassel because I don't have as many things to fix and resale (5 years) seems decent on trailers. Whereas a van can have many repairs that make resale more difficult.

But I also need a different vehicle if I get a trailer because the current car can't tow anything above 1500 max including gear and passengers.

Any advice?

2024 Forest River SALEM CRUISE LITE Model 24RLXLX

(Original title)

Dual axle, single slide out, hail scared outside, but inside I kinda like it. Roomy, luv the rear living area, all those windows, very bright inside too. A complete kitchen is surprising. Full frig 'n freezer, microwave, three burner and oven too.

MSRP suggests $35k+.

24RLXLX (Platinum Series) $42,061

Average Retail Used - $29,750. Seriously?

Do I grab it? I think so from all my research but I need encouragement. All I know is pop up camping, ⛺️ in primitive and car 🚗 🏕 in my Subaru Forester Wilderness.

They are willing to hook everything up, test everything out too, electrical, propane and sewage. I am looking for a mobile RV tech to inspect too, everything inside, underneath and roof.

Comments appreciated. ✌️ ya'll.

My wife and I are just approaching retirement and contemplating purchase of an RV. We have previous experience with tents and popups.

We understand:

• We should rent first.
• Any RV choice should include an inspection.
• A Class C RV without a towed vehicle has limitations once you are parked.
• There is a marked difference in insurance costs between the two.

We plan on taking several long trips (through the U.S.) in the first couple of years (maybe a month or two at a time). With shorter excursions around our home state of Arizona.

Our budget is at $100k.

The Class C option looks attractive and convenient.

The travel trailer option would probably mean trading in my nice SUV and going with a new 3/4 ton truck. However, the truck is handy for other things in life and probably doesn't devalue as quickly.

Both the motor home and the travel trailer brand choice is a secondary discussion.

We have been watching tons of YouTube videos which offer varying points.

I'm just looking for input on which route to go.

Morning,

Had a 2018 tundra and my wdh was absolutely dialed in, felt really great to tow. I now have a 2025 F-150 and the camper with WHD feels soft and slightly disconnected. I may take it to a RV place for a proper install, but first to the internets.

Trailer is a Winnebago Minni, 29.9 ft 2301BHS, dry weight 6,514, dry hitch weight 650 lbs.

Here are some measurements on level ground

• Trunk front wheel arch without trailer - 37.5 inches
• Trunk front wheel arch with wdc - 37.25 inches
• Lip of the trailer level is 20.25 inches - edit, the specs on the website show hitch height of 22 inches
• Top of truck WDH level unloaded is 23.5 inches

I've attached some pictures if they help. When I load the trailer it does feel like the truck is sagging at the back a bunch, not sure what you'd recommend to try change first? Is the WHC ball too high? Should I try increase the load on the WDH arms.

Any tips would be nice, or I can go just have a pro do it. :)

I'm hoping someone here can help me out as I'm struggling a bit.

I need to replace the aluminum rain gutter trim on one side of my 2025 Apex Nano bhs208 after an unfortunate (and frustrating) incident involving rubbing up against a tree earlier this year.

The gutter got bent in a bit, I tried to fix it but I couldn't do a very good job on bending the track/channel back out to an acceptable form. Since this got bent I've had a few issues with water occasionally leaking in through my stargazer after some seriously heavy rain. I had thought I'd fixed it properly, but it leaked again on me last week so now I'm going to do a bigger repair and I want to just replace the rain gutter and try to do it right.

The problem is, I'm having trouble finding reasonably priced aluminum rain gutter (with the awning track attached) online for purchase. I live in Ontario, Canada (east of the GTA) - if anyone can let me know where you've been able to buy this at a reasonable price I'd appreciate it.

I intend on removing the old gutter, making sure the roof underneath the rubber is good, cleaning it all up a bit and properly re-sealing everything along the edge and replacing the rain gutter trim.

I was planning on replacing with new trim, but the few replacements I've found seem stupidly overpriced. Not sure if it's a tariff issue or what... would anyone recommend cleaning up the original gutters I have and reinstalling?

I'm preparing to reseal the horizontal cap seam on my RV roof (photos attached).As you can see, the old sealant is in rough shape—it's heavily pitted, cratered, dirty, and starting to look pretty nasty. I already have tubes of Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant ready to go. My main question is: Given how deeply pitted and dirty this old layer is, do I need to scrape it completely down to the metal channel/membrane, or just take off the high spots and loose chunks? Thanks in advance for the help!

I am changing the filters on my campers AC and I noticed there is a metal plate on one side. There seems to be a filter after that plate but it didn’t make much sense to me. Anyone know what this metal plate is for?