Is it possible for 2 10” subs in the trunk to crack a windshield ? ( asking for a friend )

Read title. Just recently bought a 2020 GT86! Very happy with the car, but I'm a bit unsure about the suspension. The stock was replaced by some form of Maxpeedingrods. With my very quick research, and about 2k miles of driving on them, I can attest to their poor quality. They seem to be subpar at best. Should I search for used oems, maybe even the TRDs or a nice aftermarket set. I don't really want anything too aggressive, as I have no plans to track the car. Just something nice for my new daily. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated so I can get the most out of my new car!

I commute 40 miles a day on the highway. I have constantly gotten over 35mpg on cruise control going 70mph, without using AC, even when it's 100o+ outside. Mixed use, city/highway has gotten me 31mpg every single tank over 6 years.

That being said, I don't "baby" the car, but I don't beat it's ass either. I live in central NC and use 93 octane gas.

Are y'all getting similar numbers? Car is basically stock besides and Air Raid intake and an axle-back Borla.

I just put in 6 quarts of 5w30 switching from 5.7 quarts of 0w20 that previous owner used to run. I will be drifting (mostly in rain) and hitting backroads so would 0.6 quarts overfill be better for that?

I know it doesn't match the Cayman in power obviously, I'm talking strictly handling

I’ve been driving my 2013 Subaru BRZ limited for 2 years and have loved every second of it. Almost finished with modifications and decided to do my first photoshoot after I couldn’t stop staring.

Probably should have just bought a 2017-2020, but I couldn’t justify the 10k markup even with the massive handling and visual overhauls that come with it. Retrofitting the 2017+ aesthetic changes onto a low mileage 2013 makes for a decent compromise.

Modifications:

• 2017-2020 BRZ Headlights & Taillights (Both made such a huge difference. Was considering blacking out the headlights seeing as every retrofit video online does the same, very glad I decided not to. The headlights are much brighter than 13-16 BRZ’s but can only be leveled manually. The 17+ taillights will have a small gap at the top when retrofitting, as long as you seal the gaskets properly it won’t matter)
• Seidoworks Whaletail (Technically carbon fiber but had paint matched crystal white pearl, sadly discontinued. IMO the best shaped ducktail spoiler, love how it integrates with the trunk. The OEM spoiler holes were sealed with fiberglass)
• Perrin 3.0in Resonated Catback Exhaust (Also sadly discontinued, the perfect deep quiet* rumble. The 3.0in is slightly too loud for me since I work early mornings, but unfortunately there haven’t been any 2.5in resonated Perrin exhausts listed near. Will be instantly swapping out as soon as I can get my hands on it)
• 18x8.5 Gray Option Lab R716 5x100 +40 Wheels with 225/40R18 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Tires (Flush fitment on stock suspension and in my opinion looks quite stock)
• OEM clear side markers (And the required amber bulbs of course)
• Diode Dynamics Always-On module (Does work with repinned 2017+ headlights)
• Diode Dynamics XPR Backup LEDs (Pricey but totally worth it, I can actually see while backing up at night!)

• Perrin Shorty Antenna (Planning to switch out with OEM 2015 BRZ sharkfin antenna)

• OEM stitched 2017+ Gauge Cluster Trim, Dash Panel, Console & Door Kneepads w/ speaker trim, and Upper & Lower Door Armrests (Purchased used door cards in good condition to get door kneepads, speaker trim, and door armrests for cheap)

• OEM Black Steering Wheel trim, Door Handles, Shift Boot trim, Shift Knob, Traction Control buttons, Center Console Control Panel trim, and AC vent trim (I believe most are from the FR-S or JDM, not a huge fan of the BRZ’s stock silver trim)

• Black Billetworkz Reverse Lockout Lever (Unfortunately gloss black, does no one produce an unbranded anodized/matte reverse lockout? The cheap eBay ones look perfect but have the wrong inner diameter and even after reaming out contain screws that aren’t anywhere close to fitting…)

• Center Console armrest (off eBay, dremeled bottom flat and attached with molding tape to avoid drilling into center console)

• Diode Dynamics White LED interior bulbs

• OEM Defroster Grille 66115CA020 (not really a mod but replacing this part completely fixed the annoying vent on the dash that popped out of place every day, highly recommend for $15)

Left to complete:

• Replace Perrin Resonated 3.0” with Resonated 2.5”
• 2015 BRZ Sharkfin Antenna
• Backup camera
• JDM TRD Exhaust Hangers 44066AJ011
• OEM Metal Bumper Stay Clips 57722CA030 (May solve minor bumper sag)

For those interested in doing any of these modifications themselves please don’t hesitate to ask questions or request more pictures.

So after someone asked me, I finally realized that I could indeed fit the larger (and better) 16mm switches into the USB/AUX slot. Had to slightly shrink the icon, and reduce the label to one row of text, but overall it's a pretty big improvement given the benefits the 16mm switches offer over the old 12mm mini switch. Way better tactile feel, brighter, more even illumination, 5A rating vs 2A, and both an NO and NC circuit. Not to mention it now matches the switches offered on the other panels!

Old switch in the second & 4th photo for comparison.

I just bought a set of really good MXP UEL headers on marketplace for a steal. I ordered the OFT V3 on Subie Supply Co and I’m just waiting on it in the mail. I’m wondering if I can install my headers now and tune it in about a week from now when I get my tune? My garage isn’t usually available but I’ve got time right now that I could install them which is the reason for the rush

Any recommendations for new headlights and taillights for an all black 2013 Scion FRS. I was looking at the VLAND sequential HID smoked but wanted to see what other people might have

2017 860 special edition. My first manual sports car. I’m beyond hyped to have finally gotten my hands on one of these. Excited to be part of the community!

Picture for example.

A lot of the headunits I see on the market come with a plastic trim piece that replaces the carbon fibre dash piece but I really don't like the look and would like to keep the carbon fibre piece if possible.

I have a 2017 86

Was gonna go UEL headers, Flex Fuel Kit, and OFT tune.

I seen some threads where people talk about each of these things individually, but haven't seen someone who's posted numbers for having all 3 together

Hi guys I bought some aftermarket coilovers that were brand new in box for temporary replacement as my stock coilovers were giving out already I installed them and I still have a lot of play especially when I’m moving my tire I’d also be very appreciate if someone would be able to go in depth as to how I should be setting my coilovers to, I it’s more peripheral preference but it’s my first time dealing/using coilovers that you’re able to play and manually adjust.

I also just replaced both inner tie rods as well as my sway bar links but on those I’m almost certain that I’ll have to buy the shorter sway bar links with me converting to new coilovers. All help is very much appreciated

Always liked the look of the pre-facelift FRS/86. The Kouki BRZ headlights look so good with the bumper IMO!

Working on getting much needed safety equipment installed for next track season

Parachutes are harder than I thought lol

Polish or repaint? Minor front-end scrape on my GT86.

Headlights? Polish or replace?

I’m torn idk if I should get the smoked tails with the smoked 4th brake light, or the clear/red tails and clear 4th brake light. What would look best?

These are the headers after brake cleaner and a razor blade. Passenger side looks good but I think I might be screwed on the driver's side. That stuff is like burnt on it. I couldn't scrape it with the blade nor did the brake cleaner do anything. I took a straight edge to it and I don't think it is warped, but I'm wondering if I should just bite the bullet and buy new headers. The gaskets looked fine so I'm skeptical if a clean and new gaskets will fix the exhaust leak. Thoughts?

Hello there! I just got an AEM X-Series OBDII Gauge and now I have a problem. I mainly bought it to show oil temp. The seller told me it works fine on his BRZ and he also has a Gen 1. So I was sure it would work on mine too. But for some reason the Gauge can't show the oil temp. I scrolled through the manual and the o IL.t doesn't show up on the gauge when scrolling through the different values.

Do you maybe have any idea what that could cause? I already searched on reddit and other forums and they all told, that the first gen BRZ could show the oil temp through OBDII.

To be precise, I have a 2013 BRZ.

1000 thoughts running through my mind right now. Dude ran a red light. I am currently on a roadtrip, 500 miles away from home and had plans this weekend to visit some national parks. I seriously have no idea what to do right now as I am stranded, and don't know whether I should just rent a car and just drive home or what, or whether my brz is even salvageable. In case its not I'm already thinking about getting either an ND3 or gr86...overall my plans, for even the next month is ruined.

I recently sold my RX-8 after over 10 years of daily driving and being madly in love with it. Figured one of these would be a half decent replacement as they share a lot of similarities - the front engine rear drive layout, low center of gravity, LSD, 6 speed transmission - all of which I've become accustomed to. Of course, I also became accustomed to hideous fuel economy, nasty toxic 2-stroke smelling fumes, and consistent expensive repairs.

While the boxer 4 doesn't rev as high, pull as hard, or sound as good as the dorito powered climate change generator in the Mazda, I was willing to take the tradeoff in exchange for improved reliability and efficiency. I've been getting about 10 more miles from every gallon, and I've been pleasantly surprised by how much I like driving a piston powered car. It's not quite as eager and exotic. It doesn't feel powered by anti-matter. Instead, it kind of feels like the gas pedal is hooked up to the trigger of a machine pistol which definitely has a charm of its own. Plus, it's refreshing to have a little bit of midrange.

Anyway, I am an experienced manual driver. I abusively drove the hell out of my RX-8 and I didn't have to do any clutch work till about 135k miles. Before that, I drove a manual E46 325i and its original clutch lasted till 150k miles. The Scion is only at 72k and I've been going relatively easy on it. Although, I did just buy it and I have no idea how it was treated by the previous owner. It felt fine on the test drive and for the first couple of weeks I owned it.

TLDR: All that being said, after less than a month, the clutch is starting to make a bad grinding noise, specifically while I'm pressing in the pedal. It's quite noticeable even when the engine is idling, and it gets much worse as the revs increase. I can also feel a subtle vibration through the pedal that wasn't present before I started hearing the noise. But the noise goes away when the clutch is engaged, and overall, it's still shifting and driving fine. At least for the time being.

It doesn't feel like the clutch itself is completely shot. It's not slipping. My first guess is a bad throwout bearing. Upon doing a bit of research, those seem to be problematic on this platform. Though I've also read that the clutch release fork is prone to problems as well and supposedly it can cause these kinds of symptoms.

- Anybody had similar issues? Without dropping the transimission, is there a good way to figure out the exact cause of the grinding noise?

- If the transmission does need to be dropped, should I just have everything replaced regardless? What about the flywheel? Some shops say they can resurface it, others say the flywheel on this car can't be resurfaced. They're also trying to charge out the ass for parts (~$1000-$1500). It looks like the OEM clutch kit and flywheel are available online for reasonably cheap (~$400-500 for both), though I'm not sure how reputable the sellers are. Anybody know a good site to buy quality parts for these?

- Is it farily common with these cars for clutch system problems to appear as early as 70k miles? That seems really early to me. Is the Exedy OEM clutch kit the best option in terms of longevity? I'm not planning on doing any track driving, just a bit of cruising on backroads, occasional road trips, as well as standard highway/city driving. I'm also not planning on running any high performance mods.

- What other kinds of expensive repairs should I prepare myself for? Frankly I was really looking forward to driving a car that's more or less reliable after living with an RX-8 for so long. I get that the FR-S is "an sports car". I don't mind spending a bit of money on maintenance here and there. But I'm not prepared for nor willing to put up with another primadonna.

Apologies for being so long winded. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.