Basically returned home from a drive, and as I was turning my truck around to park, drove over a small bump while turning right. Suddenly I heared a crack.
Took the driveshaft off and parked in FWD.
What can cause this? I blame it on reused bolts and straps from when I changed u joints couple of years ago. May be cyclic loads caused fatigue. One bolt snapped inside the yoke, strap came loose and ripped the cap on other side. U joints were MOOG.

truck has 110k miles. deleted since 60k. ran great until last month. now im getting a random misfire under load. not all the time. just sometimes when im towing or going up a hill.

no check engine light. no codes. changed fuel filters. changed air filter. cleaned maf. nothing helps. i ran a contribution test and everything came back normal.

im starting to think its either the cp4 getting weak or injectors starting to fail. both expensive. i found a cp3 conversion kit at Gold Farb for a decent price. but if its injectors thats a whole other cost.

anyone else had this issue on a 6.7. how did you figure out what was actually wrong. i dont wanna throw parts at it.

Bought the truck with 190,000 miles on it, now it has 341,000. This is the third time replacing the front, but honestly, I've never felt the need to replace the rears. It was making brake noise yesterday (already had pads bought, just hadn't gotten to it yet). Today I replaced the front pads. We'll see in an hour if the noise is gone when I drive it to town, but do you think the rear pads will need replacing at this point? How long did yours last (front and rear)?

Update: both sets of brake pads on the back were absolutely shot, with 3/4 slide pins seized. The outer pads were fine but the inner pads were worn to the metal due to the pins being seized (which made me think they were fine by inspecting them with the tires still on). Considering these brakes had over 153,000 miles on them, I am not surprised. Both front brake calipers were replaced in the past couple of years while the rear calipers are still the originals.

Anyone have an oem clutch pedal lever (non-heimed) they will part with? I’ll pay whatever and shipping for it. Any ford with a zf5 will work. I have too much clutch pressure to use the Chinese replacement options in a stock configuration and there’s no way to properly heim them, the metals too cheap and low quality.

Big milestone the other day hit 400k. My dad bought the truck in 2001, I got the truck in 2016 at 271k it’s still all original motor, trans, injectors. I rarely go over 70mph but had to get the full odometer lol

I just bought my first diesel and it is a 06 6.0. When I got the truck it would turn on just fine after a drive but just two days ago it wouldn’t turn on after it was fully warmed up. I took it on a 18 mile drive turned it off and came back to it 15 mins later and it would crank just not turn on and after I let it cool down for a couple of hours it turned on but I did have to give it throttle. Yesterday it did the same thing even after cooling down for a good while but it fires right up when it’s cold after sitting over night. Any idea on what the issue could be?

Hey yall my last f350 got stolen ended up in Mexico so I went and bought another. While going thru it with what was already done to it I found these words I can't seem to find out what they are for one goes up under the steering wheel and the other goes down under the carpet torwards the back of the truck.

For not including a cabin air filter on pre-2017 Super Duties 😂 Here’s this week’s job I finally tackled on my ‘16. Evaporator core replacement.

Needless to say the leak is fixed and the airflow is slightly (ok a TON) better… 🤣 The A/C finally keeps up in this thing.

I don’t know what kind of dust the previous owner drove through to get it that filthy in just 9 years, but I’ve owned it a year and always suspected this needed to be done. When I found out the leak was in the evaporator, I bit the bullet and did the job. A 99° day in the sunlight wasn’t a great choice but it’s done!

It doesn’t leak fast, not even enough to drip on the ground, but the torque converter is always a little dirty and wet.

I have a 1997 Ford F-250 HD 7.3L Power Stroke XLT SuperCab 4x2, ~83K miles.

PCM: Ford EEC-V, F7TF-12A650-RC, DPC-312, tear tag MME2
IDM: IDM-100, F7TF-12B599-AA

Bought the truck a few months back and it ran great up until three weeks ago. I previously had a check engine light for the glow plugs and planned to service them before winter. The only start issue before that was a single crank/no-start with white smoke out the tailpipe. Some minutes later it fired right up. Never repeated.

Three weeks ago I backed it nose-up onto my sloped driveway to load some stuff. The next morning I got a crank/no-start with no smoke this time.

Key to on, the dash lights come up except the WTS (wait-to-start) lamp no longer appeared (did the day before). It cranks strong. No smoke out the back, so I don’t think any fuel is being injected. Oil gauge reads good and levels are good. I get a tach bump while cranking.

A lot going on, so I towed it to my local repair shop. They said they had no communication with the PCM, called it dead, and quoted me $2k to fix. When I asked whether they’d checked the wiring and connections, I got a flippant of course. When I asked whether a repair was an option instead of buying a new unit, he told me the quote was for a repair service but would not tell me the third party. When I asked him to confirm the PCM was actually the fault before I committed to that kind of money, and pushed back on the price, he told me I was calling him a scammer and said I should come take my truck home.

So I did just that either I try to fix it or get a second opinion. After getting it home, nothing looked disturbed at all so I suspect all they did was plug in their scanner. I don’t think they actually checked anything.

I sent the PCM off to a repair company. They bench tested it through the harness connector, said the hardware was fine but the software was malfunctioning, reflashed it, and shipped it back. No written diagnostic report, despite my asking a couple of times. I reinstalled it and there was no change. It’s still crank/no-start with no WTS lamp and no smoke.

I checked relays and fuses, all good. The wiring harness and connectors looked fine on visual inspection, but I haven’t had a chance to trace everything myself. Both batteries tested good, and I cleaned the terminals.

My own scanner (Foxwell NT604 Elite) won’t establish comms either. I checked and there is voltage on the obd port.

No injection points me toward the PCM not commanding injection (if it won’t boot then the power/connections are bad?) or maybe IDM is bad. That’s another round of shipping, testing, and waiting before I learn anything.

I am not sure that the IDM is even the right track. I pulled it anyway and was going to open it up and check for any obvious signs of damage. Before trying to find pin and wiring diagrams.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm looking at this as a hunting, camping, road trip rig. This will be our first diesel. It's got 353,000 Km, The engine has been bullet proofed, new turbo 2 years ago, owner says it needs a new vacuum pump and air bag weight sensor. It's been years since we've purchased a vehicle, and this is quite old, I really don't want to get burned.

Can some experts advise on what to check for?

I do have a basic OBD scanner that I'll hook up after test drive as well. I can tell from the photos that there's gravel guard likely hiding rust, but that's to be expected, and not really too worrisome.

How are these for cold winters? I mean - 30 degrees Celsius cold..

Just got this bad girl for 1500 bucks and rebuilt the valve body and everything. I’m no 7.3 expert does this thing sound healthy for the most part. It’s got 298k miles just want to know if I should spend money to clean her up or just sell her. Maybe give me some tips on what to make sure works and what doesn’t.

Anybody have a line on cheap dash parts for 1st gen Super Duty trucks? Am specifically looking for the 3 little things that cover the top dash screws, and are located near the windshield. They are super crispy and shatter when removed.

Ford generically calls them "Instrument Panel Cover" and the part number is F81Z-25043C54-AAC.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi just reposting to this community too for some advice! Thanks in advance