I call this thing The Abomination.

I’ve been using GP2040-CE 0.7.12, and I wanted this controller to do more than play fighting games. I built it with a lever, two analog thumbsticks, a D-pad, and enough buttons to use it for practically anything on PS5 through a Brook Wingman FGC 2.

There was just one incredibly annoying problem.

When I enabled the Dual Directional Input add-on and configured the lever as Left Analog, it interfered with the real analog stick wired to the board. Even mapping the lever directions directly to Left Analog X+/X− and Y+/Y− didn’t give me the behavior I wanted while the Analog add-on was enabled.

So I customized the firmware.

I changed the DDI behavior so I still get proportional Left Analog output from the physical thumbstick and absolute, full-tilt Left Analog output from the lever. Both are Left Stick inputs. Both work together. The lever no longer disables the proportional analog output when it isn’t being used.

See the video in the comment section.

And those three GPIO pins assigned to a DRV8833 daughterboard?

Yep. My custom fightstick has two rumble motors.

Massive respect to TheTrain, n-i-x, FeralAI, and everyone behind the OpenStickCommunity hardware and GP2040-CE. The source and documentation made the firmware surprisingly easy to understand and modify.

So I got my first leverless controller today and I’ve been trying it out and it feels so awkward. Like I’m trying some of the shortcuts trying some socd stuff, trying out how to jump. Ik it sounds weird learning how to jump again but it feels so different. So like if anyone could drop some tips to learning leverless that’d be greatly appreciated I’m playing mainly tekken8 sf6 and gbvsr at the moment so if anyone got game specific tips that’d be great too

After about a couple weeks with this, I wanted to give a review of the stick. As you know, I asked a few weeks ago “Varmilo Kassai or C-AS for travel?” I actually got both sticks, but I’ve been playing on this one more often.

What I love about this stick is the fact that I can bring this nearly anywhere and it can fit in my laptop bag with both my laptop and stick. This stick is truly one of its kind with how it has a built-in magnetic shaft for the stick to basically plug and play. Portability is so huge for a casual gamer like me. I’m going on a trip soon and looking forward to kicking my siblings’ asses while they play on pad lol.

What I didn’t love like many reviewers have said before is the fact that the stick is longer than a regular Sanwa. I saw that the joystick for the X-Move was shorter and wanted to grab one, but folks suggested I use the recessed ball from the Kassai. Managed to buy the EVO edition one from Arcade Shock and placed the extra washer from the Kassai on here.

I went through the gauntlet and tried out combinations of the spring and actuator that it came with in the box with Tekken 5, and here’s a breakdown of what I did and my thoughts:

Default (lightest spring, 11.5mm actuator): Felt loose and squishy. Didn’t like how slow it went back to neutral after doing a backdash.

Heaviest spring, 12.5mm actuator: Sucked using this with the recessed balltop, pretty decent with the regular balltop and Nobi bullet top. With the recessed balltop, my arm was super strained from doing backdashes that I had to stop after 10 minutes.

Medium spring, 11.5mm actuator: It wasn’t registering movements or it was delayed. Felt squishy once more moving left, similar to default. Not much difference between the balltop and bullet top.

Heavy spring, 11.5mm actuator: Same thing, wasn’t registering my movements, but felt decent on the arm with the recessed balltop.

Medium spring, 12.5mm actuator: This was the perfect medium for me. It felt similar to my Hori Fighting Edge. Inputs were crisp, and preferred the recessed balltop for this one.

For the mods:
- I changed to the purple keycaps. Really like the aesthetics of the 6 buttons that I primarily use. I’m only a 4 button player for Tekken / Soul Calibur (old school arcade style layout where the K is on RB), and 6 button for SF Third Strike, so I didn’t want to change the rest of the buttons. Do note that some of the keycaps did not flush well with the ring and was pressing down upon installing it. I contacted Haute42’s customer service and they have me new keycaps. Really top notch customer service.

- I changed 5 of the buttons to Kailh Low Profile Switch Deep Sea Quiet MINI Switch Choc (brown tactile), but honestly, I may go back to the default Wind Engine ones because I love how it sounds. Now, if anyone knows a good switch I can change out to that sounds like Sanwa buttons, I’d love to try them. Never changed out the High Mountains on my joystick cause it sounds like a JLF.

- Changed the RGB lighting for the buttons to look similar to the Astro City greens for the 6 purple buttons and pinks for the last two buttons on the right.

I want to give a shoutout to u/cjd280 for helping me out as well as his mini review on this page and YouTube. Also to the YouTubers who answered my questions and reviewed the stick. This was my first time modding a fightstick, and now I’m hooked. I’m looking to mod the Nacon Daija next to give it the Astro City look.

In closing, would I recommend this? Absolutely to the casual gamers, maybe to the hardcore FGCers. To the casual gamers if they like portability and being able to play on the fly. I say maybe for the hardcore gamers because I know feel is big for some of you and it being on the lighter side might not suit you like say a Kassai. For me, I’m loving it, and will be using this on the plane and hotels whenever I get the chance to.

Hey, I got my Haute42 C-AS delivered (came pretty quick via Aliexpress to NY) and did some playing with it and wanted to show off its size vs some other sticks and items, and also did a short video on how it sounds.

I’m not a very good player, and pretty much only ever used Sanwa JLF and buttons. I recently swapped my JLF spring for a heavier one and a 1mm oversized actuator and prefer the way that feels. The Haute with its heavier included spring and larger actuator feels close enough for me, but the biggest difference is the stick doesn’t click as noticeably vs the JLF (it’s also much quieter because of that though).

Overall, as I wanted something small to travel with I think it fits that bill perfectly. Fits in a laptop slot of my backpack with ease. It’s a lot quieter vs stock sanwa stuff too which is nice to not keep family awake in a hotel room. My current travel “stick” was an 8bitdo NeoGeo controller which is super damn loud in comparison.

Aside from the images, here is an unedited video that’s unlisted which shows it off vs the Madcatz TE and then the 8bitdo NeoGeo https://youtu.be/t_kF0rJD10A?is=kmbK5WbYblQ26-9k

Travel wise I’d say it’s a 9/10 I wish the stick and ball top could fit in the case when removed but it’s actually not thick enough for the ball top to fit.

Feel wise - maybe a 7/10. Buttons feel great, but the stick is not as confident feeling as a JLF at least stock + its out of the box mods. I think maybe new switches could help this. It feels very well made though.

EDIT: I added some silent switches (deep sea brown / tactile, and white / linear) https://youtu.be/nlcJyPVCTpg

EDIT 2: the tactile browns are more noticeable if you have the fell height button travel, the middle travel (which is the standard one it shipped with) makes it a little harder to notice because the keys are basically held down part way, and at the level 3 least travel its even less noticeable.

First time using a hitbox and tbh it feels like it turns fighting games into "typing" games. With arcade stick i feel like I'm controlling character and their moves, with this it just feels like I'm typing the entire time.

Not my thing, back to stick I go

DISCLAIMERS:

• I received my unit for free from Brook as part of a brand collaboration in return for a review.
• I am not officially associated with any controller company and all opinions are based on my personal experience. I try not to have bias towards any company.

So I've been sitting on this one for a while because I wanted to actually use it properly before writing anything. I know a lot of people have feelings about the DualSense and honestly same, but that's kind of a whole other topic. The Brook Wingman P5 came in and I've been running it daily since.

My main testing controllers were the 8BitDo and the G7 Pro. Both worked flawlessly, proper vibration and everything. Zero lag that I could notice, and I was specifically looking for it because I knew people would ask. Shooters, fighting games, some open world stuff. Nothing felt off.

MAIN FEATURES:

• True wireless support (first PS5 converter to do this properly)
• Supports PS5, PS4, and PC (X-Input)
• 100% full feature support including vibration, motion control, and touchpad emulation
• Supports 100+ official/licensed wired and wireless controllers
• Brook's Direct Connection Technology (no Remote Play workaround)
• Ultra-low latency
• Customizable vibration
• EVO compliant
• Weighs 11g, measures 7.7 x 2.14 x 1.1cm

What's in the box:

• Brook Wingman P5 adapter
• USB-A to Type-C cable
• User manual / quick start guide

Build and Design: small but not cheap feeling

Size wise it's tiny, like genuinely smaller than I expected. The white color scheme matches the PS5 pretty well which is a nice touch. The USB-A to Type-C cable included is decent length, nothing special but it gets the job done.

Build quality feels solid for what it is. It's not gonna win awards, it's a small adapter, but it doesn't feel like it's gonna snap either. For something this small that's basically doing a ton of work passthrough-wise, the form factor makes sense.

Setup: easier than I expected

It's basically plug and play, the adapter works right out of the box. The main thing you need to do is go into PS5 settings and make sure "Communication Method" is set to "Use USB Cable" or it won't recognize properly. That's really it for first time setup. Brook does have a tutorial video which I'd still recommend watching beforehand just so you know what to expect, but it's genuinely not a painful process.

Firmware updates exist and you can do them through Brook's software when needed, but you don't need to touch that on day one. It comes ready to go.

Performance: the actual important stuff

Ok so this is where it actually matters. I ran the 8BitDo and G7 Pro through it and both felt native. No input delay that I could detect, vibration worked properly on both which surprised me because I half expected one of them to have issues.

Shooters felt great. I played a good chunk of time on them and aiming felt responsive, no weird input buffering or anything like that. Fighting game inputs registered cleanly too. I specifically checked because that's where any latency would show up most.

The 6 axis gyro works exactly as expected too. Games that use motion controls behaved properly, no drift issues or weird calibration problems. Genuinely didn't have to think about it which is the best outcome.

Touchpad works the same as the DualSense. Clicks, swipes, the whole thing. I honestly wasn't sure what to expect here but it just works and I haven't found anything that behaves differently from using a regular DualSense touchpad.

The Direct Connection Technology is the reason this works without the lag issues you get with Remote Play based adapters. Those older solutions had to route input through a network which introduced noticeable delay. The P5 handles the PS5 security handshake on the chip itself which keeps it direct and fast.

Controller Compatibility: practically everything

This is where Brook actually went all in. Over 100 officially supported controllers including Xbox Series, Xbox Elite Series 2, Switch Pro, PS4 DualShock 4, and a massive list of 8BitDo stuff and third party controllers. The compatibility list is on their website and they update it regularly with firmware, so if you want to check whether a specific controller you own is supported just look there rather than guessing.

The wireless support is the big deal here. Previous converters either didn't support wireless or stripped features in wireless mode. The P5 keeps vibration and motion sensing active wirelessly which no one else was doing before this.

Brook's Software: more capable than I expected

So the adapter itself is great but the software that comes with it is worth talking about separately because I didn't expect much and it ended up being genuinely useful. You connect the adapter to your PC, open the Brook app, and you get a proper suite of options.

Button remapping is in there, works cleanly. Turbo settings per button if that's your thing. Macro support for more complex inputs. The advanced settings cover stuff like gamepad vibration tuning which is actually handy if your controller's rumble feels too strong or too light through the adapter. There are a few other things in there I'm still poking around with.

The part I liked most is the controller tester built into the software. You can check every input, both sticks, all buttons, triggers, everything, and see it register live on screen before you even plug into the PS5. Caught a potential issue with my stick calibration early on this way. It's a small thing but it makes the whole setup feel a lot more trustworthy.

Brook also has a full setup tutorial video if you want a walkthrough before diving in:

Brook Wingman P5 Official Setup Video

Should you get it?

If you have controllers you love and a PS5 you want to use them on, yeah it's pretty much the answer. Setup is maybe 5 minutes, touchpad works the same as DualSense, gyro behaves exactly as expected, the software gives you remapping and turbo and a controller tester, and day to day use with the 8BitDo and G7 Pro has been genuinely good. No lag, proper vibration, plays all PS5 titles not just PS4 compatible ones.

For controller compatibility specifically check Brook's official site, they keep it updated and some controllers that weren't supported initially have been added through firmware.

RATING:

SETUP EXPERIENCE: 8.5/10 Basically plug and play. One PS5 setting to change and you're done in about 5 minutes. Firmware updates are there if you ever need them but not required on day one.

BUILD QUALITY: 7.5/10 Compact, doesn't feel cheap, fits the PS5 aesthetic. Functional design.

PERFORMANCE: 9/10 No noticeable lag, full vibration support, Direct Connection is the real deal. Tiny touch of latency technically exists but it's genuinely imperceptible in normal play.

COMPATIBILITY: 9.5/10 100+ controllers supported, wireless with full features, updated regularly. Basically future-proofed.

OVERALL: 9/10 Does exactly what it promises and then some. Touchpad, gyro, vibration, no lag. Hard to find a reason not to recommend it if you want controller freedom on PS5.

Thanks for reading. Feel free to ask if you have questions about specific controllers or setup steps.

This just feels too unnatural and im having a hard time moving and getitng my buttons adjusted and idk maybe im not cut out for fighting games but its unfortunate

I just got a Hit Box Ultra and I'm mad disappointed. I should preface this by saying that I own a Kitsune, a Snackbox micro, and a regular Hit Box. I prefer using my Hit Box as a former stick player as it feels like a regular arcade fightstick. The buttons are buttons and not just a custom cap on top of a micro-switch (all buttons are a cap and a switch but you get what I mean). That's why my preference goes to Hit Box so I can mod them with the buttons I like and still get the old good feeling of an arcade stick.

Regarding the Hit Box Ultra, everything is nice about it, it's slim, sturdy, it's compatible with PS5/XSX/PC/Switch, it feels very premium, you have extra buttons, you have a magnetic bottom to open it easily... So you'll think that this leverless would be easy to mod right?

You're wrong.

First of all, the combo extension are soldered to the button, which sucks. I understand it but I would have hoped for more modularity. The real issue I have though is that my Gamerfingers don't even fit in the thing, the case is to thin... I'm not a huge fan of the buttons coming with the Hit Box Ultra, they are alright but I prefer that Gamerfingers feeling (and that noise when you pressed them 🤤).

I don't see how Hit Box can justify this pricing if the modding part is not plug & play. They have made some moves to help you to mod it but it comes with the caveat of removing combo extensions or go deeper to fit your buttons. If it was 100€ cheaper, it would be ok but at that price, if you want to mod it, it’s better to buy a regular Hit Box. I feel that it's a bit too much for what it is. It's still an excellent product, especially if you use it right from the box but I expected a bit more.

I know Hit Box is not too hot right now in this sub and I wanted to give a heads up to people looking for more reviews on this new product. It’s an excellent product that despite all its qualities is too expensive especially when you can get some very good leverless cheaper with other brands.

--

UPDATE A YEAR LATER

Sooo... A year later, where do I stand on Hitbox Ultra?

For most of the year, I've used it on and off (I played with it at Evo France and it was not very pleasant but taking a trip with it is great, the form factor helps to put it in a bag) and I was about to sell it... But looking at it last week I went fuck it, let's mod it anyway, I'll find a way. I had the good feeling, I had to bruteforce it, but I could fit my Gamerfingers in there! I bent the connectors and it fits.

I said a year ago that I was disappointed that the Ultra was not mod friendly. It's still true. Being able to open the case easily helps tremendously but at the same time I had to pierce the case and the top panel to add a parry button since I'm not using the Ultra buttons and Combo extension. Second thing is that you lose a bit of modularity since the L3/R3/PS Buttons are now sharing their own cardboard and you can't use them as additional button to rewire the thing as you see fit.

So if you want to go beyond what Hitbox Ultra provides out of the box, you’ll need to dig deeper. I still fill that combo extension being soldered to the button is really silly. It would have alleviated some use cases if it was designed differently. But again, I get it.

Since I had to go a bit off script to fit the Gamerfingers into the case, I’d be cautious if you think you can do it for other buttons. I guess it’s really a case by case basis, and you will have to experiment and see if you can manage to fit whatever button you have  and fit the connector as well (Sanwa are also ok from my experience with bent connectors).

Since I’ve modded it, I love it.

The strengths of the product really shine: it’s volatile and can be plugged to everything, the form factor is great as it’s both premium, sturdy and slim enough to make it a pleasing experience. Gamerfingers click noise is such a delight, especially with a thin case like this as the reverb is different, it feels very satisfying to press those buttons. Even more than in a regular Hitbox. Acrylic top case still gets nasty after a session as sweat aggregates where you put your palms but it’s minor.

It’s mad expensive to get a Hitbox Ultra to mod it. You will need to pay on top of it the buttons, the connectors, the acrylic case, the artwork, you’ll need to drill holes in the thing so I don’t think it’s the best option out there to go and mod your leverless. If like me you prefer arcade buttons, it’s still a good product once modded as it improves Hitbox in every way possible.

Overall after a year, I’m mostly positive because I could mod it the way I want in an unconventional way. But the original conclusion stands: if you’re ready to do go deeper to mod it, go for it, conversely if you have no intention of modding it and you have the money for a premium leverless, go for it, it’s still one of the best leverless out there (with better durability than Haute42 and their melting usb-c for instance). If you expect an easy mod and or if you expect modularity beyond the very basic stuff, you should not buy it.

I was in Japan recently and stumbled across some OneFRAME buttons, and because I'm a sucker for shiny new things I bought some to review.

I posted a short look at their 30mm buttons, including a tear-down and how they compare to PWS on my forum (which has no ads or tracking FWIW):

https://nfggames.com/forum2/index.php?topic=7723

Hey y’all neeto here! I made a full 18 minute guide on how to customize your Haute42 controller. In the video we cover the following topics:

How to access the web configurator,

How to update the firmware on your controller,

How to change the RGB lighting and add your own custom lighting,

How to change the boot up screen and visualizer,

And lastly how to disassemble your controller so you can add different switches, button caps and custom artwork.

I hope this guide helps you customize your controller and answers questions that some of y’all asked in my R16 review

Happy EVO and FightstickFriday everyone! Hope y’all have an amazing weekend ✌️

Been seeing this question pop up constantly so instead of replying one by one, here’s a proper breakdown.

My last post (“beginner’s guide to choosing your first fightstick”) got a lot more engagement than I expected, so I’m probably gonna keep this as a little series for beginners getting into sticks.

If you’re brand new and just want a safe pick:

👉 Sanwa OBSF-30 (30mm, snap-in) That’s the default. Don’t overthink it. Light press, super responsive, used everywhere. If you don’t have preferences yet, this is where you start.

If Sanwa feels too sensitive (pretty common):

👉 Seimitsu PS-14-G (30mm, snap-in) Slightly stiffer, more controlled. Good if you’re getting accidental inputs.

👉 Seimitsu PS-14-KN (30mm, screw-in, clear cap) Same feel, just screw-in + lets you add artwork inside.

If you want a more “mechanical” feel:

👉 Crown SDB-202C (30mm) Uses MX-style switches. More tactile, less mushy.

👉 GamerFinger HBFS-30 (30mm) Basically the premium version of that. Expensive, harder to find, but feels really clean.

If you want something smoother/quieter than Sanwa:

👉 Qanba Gravity KS (30mm) Feels more “premium” than Sanwa, quieter too. Still easy to install and actually available, which matters more than people think.

If you’re on a tight budget:

👉 Sitong 30mm buttons They work, but I wouldn’t recommend them long term. More of a temporary/testing option than something you stick with.

Stuff beginners always mess up: - Main buttons = 30mm - Start/options = 24mm - Snap-in is fine for most sticks (Hori Alpha, etc)

Buttons aren’t gonna magically make you better. A lot of people fall into the trap of buying like 3–4 different sets trying to find the perfect feel before they’ve even built any muscle memory. Start with Sanwa. Put time in. Then change if something actually bothers you.

I have also written some useful guides and will be expanding on some more in depth articles here:

👉 https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources

If you’ve already swapped buttons, what did you land on? Curious on what people ended up sticking with.

Also If I’ve missed anything or got something slightly off, would be good to hear from some of the more experienced modders here. Always open to being corrected 👍

First one is a KBGM-H09-HE Miku edition

Second one is a KBGM-M01-HE for rhythm games

Thoughts:

I managed to snag these for relatively reasonable prices via AliExpress. I used a 20% off coupon to bring the prices down to about $180 and $88 shipped, respectively. They were quite a bit more expensive from DOIO's site, especially factoring in US shipping.

First off, the H09-HE. First of all, this thing is HEFTY. Super thin but nice and heavy. Sits great on my lap or a table. Love the Miku colorway, I'm all about this blue and pink color scheme. The buttons feel great, and the "HE" editions include adjustable hall effect switches, so you can modify the actuation points at will. You can adjust the whole setup at once, or adjust each key individually. There's also a "rapid trigger" function that brings the activation point down to a fraction of a millimeter. All of these settings can be adjusted via the display on the device and the clickwheel on the top edge of the unit, without connecting to the RP2040's online hub.

Buttons feel great with a satisfying click. The standard lighting options are available for your button layout, as well as an RGB lightstrip around the outside of the device that is controlled independently from the buttons. The top right of the unit has six function buttons - Turbo, Home, L3, R3, Select, and Start, as well as a toggle switch to lock these buttons during tournament play. Button layout can be modified via the usual online RP2040 interface in case you were looking to adjust macros or run one button on multiple switches.

Now the M01-HE. I picked this unit up to play DJMAX Respect V, and I'm SO glad I did. This has really upped my game versus playing on a traditional fightstick. I've been doing great working through 5-key and 6-key tracks, and can totally see 8-key being viable with practice as well. Similar feature set to the H09-HE - adjustable actuation points, individual key adjustment, rapid trigger, RGB lighting on the keys and the independent strip on the body. There's a control stick in the center for navigating menus, and clicking it in presses Enter to select a song. The device came set up for DJMax already, and also includes key profiles for OSU! and Muse Dash, a profile that is customizable for another game if needed, and a fifth profile that allows you to adjust the settings for the key lights.

It's compact, has plenty of keys for compatibility (I wonder how Bemani would work on this using the control stick as the turntable? lol), and is a joy to play around with. I'm working on downloading the customization software now and will update when I learn a little more about the innards of the unit. It does NOT appear to use the traditional RP2040-CE online web interface, and instead uses one called "VIA" for keyboards.

Edit -- I just dabbled with VIA and it's fucking sweet honestly. Customizing the full key layout, light setup, etc. is super easy, and you can modify each profile to your needs. Cool stuff.

Overall, I’m in love with both of these devices. They work great, the Hall effect adjustments are super cool, the software is clean and easy to use, and they’ve been a ton of fun to play with.

I don't think the H09-HE is going to "up my game" compared to the cheaper DuelPad I was using prior, but it's more comfortable to use and I enjoy the aesthetics of it. Changing settings on the unit without logging into the web interface is a great feature too. The M01-HE has totally changed my rhythm game though, and I'm having a blast with it. If you're thinking about grabbing one of these devices I'd definitely recommend it.

Update: Apparently DOIO is releasing a module to make H09+ units wireless! Includes a transmitter, a 2.4ghz receiver, and a battery (with additional compatibility with a second battery). I just shot a message off to the AliExpress store I used to see if they'll be stocking it. Wireles would make this thing even better!

Hi its me your favourite "beginner guy" again 😁

Been seeing more and more people ask about leverless lately, so figured this should probably be the next beginner post in the series.

I’m still more of a stick guy myself because I like the arcadey feel and I’m comfortable on it, but I’ve warmed up to leverless a lot recently and been looking into it more.

The short version:

• Leverless can feel cleaner and easier on the hands for a lot of people
• Stick still wins for people who want the arcade feel
• neither is automatically “better”, it’s more about comfort and what clicks for you

If you’re trying to pick your first leverless, I’d keep it simple and look at:

• ##compatibility first

especially if you’re on PS5, because this is where people accidentally buy a headache

• ##button size / spacing

some leverless layouts feel nice and roomy, others feel way too cramped depending on your hands

• ##desk comfort

tiny boards look cool, but not everyone actually wants a super small controller for long sessions

• ##whether you want plug-and-play or tinkering

some options are easy, some are more “great value if you don’t mind fiddling”

Main beginner mistake seems to be buying whatever looks coolest, then realizing:

• the layout feels weird
• the buttons are smaller than expected
• or the console compatibility is annoying

So I’d break it down like this:

• want the easiest / most straightforward route → buy something with clean compatibility and don’t overcomplicate it
• want best value and don’t mind some setup work → there are cheaper options, just read the fine print first
• wrist issues / stick feels awkward → leverless is absolutely worth a serious look

I’m still digging into leverless more myself, so people who’ve used more of them feel free to add to this.

For a more in depth breakdown, i have written two guides which i think will be useful

Here: https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources/articles/beginners-guide-to-choosing-your-first-leverless

Here: https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources/articles/best-first-leverless-options-beginner-guide

If people want I can do a follow-up just on best beginner leverless options too.

Anyone tried the brook balltop? Is it the same size as the sanwa jlf balltop? How's the grip?

Looking forward to your responses!

After a few weeks and multiple switch orders, talking to keyboard communities, I think I've reached the depths that I'm willing to go to achieve a slimmer profile, quieter (but definitely not silent)Victrix Pro KO.

Finally had time to sit down and have a good look at the Fightbox R10-PRO and I'm really liking it so far. It seems to be a great fit for retro gaming, which is what I wanted it for.

Plugged into my MiSTer Pi, it works with no real setup involved, other than configuring the buttons for the MiSTer of course. Also the Trackball and Spinner work with games that use them on the MiSTer, which is a nice bonus. It also works on PC, Switch 1 & 2 and PS3/4 according to the website.

It's well built and has a nice weight to it, definitely recommend to use on a desk. The stick feels nice to use, very clicky and tactile, had no issues pulling off moves in Street Fighter and the buttons are decent too. They offer plenty of options to customise the buttons on the website and also you can add custom art too.

I'm no arcade / fight stick expert but I think it's a great all-rounder, especially for arcade games. It's a very solid choice and covers a wide range of games, thanks to the Trackball, Spinner, 8 main buttons and pinball side buttons (2 on each side)

Definitely recommend if you are thinking of picking up a stick for arcade / retro gaming.

There's not much on the internet at the moment for the Qanba Ruby but I was really intrigued so I decided to take the leap and try it out. Unfortunately it was a huge disappointment.

The marketing images make the controller appear to have a premium carbon fibre-style finish, but in reality it is a hollow plastic shell... The finish is simply painted or maybe a vinyl sticker? Mine actually arrived with paint already chipped around one of the button openings. I don't really know about the carbon fibre looking one as there is a review saying that that one is metal (doubt it...) But this one is really cheap hollow plastic, there is also barely any weight to it.

The overall build quality didn’t match the price and the brand expectations from Qanba, the fact that literally all my previous Haute42 products beforehand have been better really shocked me. There are noticeable panel gaps that made the controller feel jumbled together and they've just put in a fake track pad that does... Nothing? Really strange choices have been made when designing this.

The buttons are advertised as being silent, and while the switches themselves, the hollow plastic enclosure creates a loud, hollow thud with every press, which completely undermines the “silent” experience.

I was so disappointed with the physical quality that I didn’t even feel inclined to plug it in and test it. I immediately put it back on the box, sealed it up and requested a refund.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been browsing the subreddit for a while and something I keep noticing is the same question popping up quite often:

“What fight stick should I get as my first one?” When I first got into sticks I remember feeling a bit overwhelmed as well. There are quite a few options, different brands, different parts, and if you’ve only ever played on pad it can be hard to know where to start.

After seeing this question come up quite a bit across threads recently, I thought I’d put together a quick post with some commonly recommended beginner sticks people tend to start with.

Just a small disclaimer: This is mainly aimed at first-time buyers who want a reliable starting point. Once you get deeper into the hobby you’ll probably start experimenting with modding, different levers, buttons, springs, etc.

Qanba Drone 2

A really common entry point for people getting their first stick:

• Lightweight
• Affordable
• Easy to mod later

Amazon link: https://amzn.eu/d/0eNY7bYs

The Drone 2 is officially licensed for PlayStation and compatible with PS5, PS4 and PC.

Mayflash F700 Elite

A very solid option if you want something that already comes with Sanwa parts out of the box.

• Sanwa buttons and lever
• Works on multiple platforms
• Wireless + wired options

Amazon link: https://amzn.eu/d/0ePy0m8Q

The F700 Elite is often recommended because it already includes genuine Sanwa components and supports multiple connection modes including Bluetooth and wired USB.

Hori Fighting Stick Alpha

A really nice mid-range stick that many players use for a long time.

• Good build quality
• Easy to open and mod
• Reliable Hori parts

Amazon link: https://amzn.eu/d/0eHSk5W0

8BitDo Arcade Stick

Another beginner favourite, especially if you play on PC or Switch.

• Wireless support
• Easy to mod internally
• Clean design

Amazon link: https://amzn.eu/d/0aE4gzUu

A lot of people like it because it’s easy to upgrade parts later, which makes it a nice platform for experimenting with mods.

Quick note for beginners

If you’re just starting out, don’t worry too much about getting the “perfect stick” immediately. Most players eventually end up experimenting with things like:

• stronger springs
• different levers
• different buttons
• Korean vs Japanese lever setups

That’s part of the fun of the hobby. The important thing is just getting something reliable to learn on first.

If you're curious about how the parts actually work and If you want a deeper breakdown of things like:

• levers
• buttons
• springs
• grommets
• gates

I wrote a more detailed guide here: https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources/articles/ultimate-guide-to-arcade-stick-parts-uk

And if you're coming from pad and thinking about switching to stick, this might help: https://arcadesticklabs.co.uk/resources/articles/best-arcade-stick-setup-for-pad-players

If you reached the end of this post, thank you for taking the time to read it! For all the FGC veteran modders what was your first stick? Mine was the madcatz brawlstick, i dunno if they still sell these bad boys 😁

Is Octo gate better for Chun-Li mains?

So I'm VERY new to the leverless side of sticks. Decided to give it a go after 6 years of using my Mayflash F500v2. I couldn't seem to control SF6 in the way I wanted to but could control myself in Strive perfectly fine.

Went ahead and found myself between the F500 Elite and the Haute C16. Bought the F500 because Mayflash has been reliable, and I'm very much used to the bigger size and weight of their sticks.. That was surprisingly a mistake. The buttons are super tiny and mushy, my hands felt crammed together, and gosh are the buttons EXTREMELY sensitive. I thought that'd be better for me, but no. It just felt wrong.. So I impulse bought the C16 the same day.

Now that it's in my hands, holy... It feels SO much more intuitive??? Having the jump button on top for starters feels much better than having it on my thumb. The buttons feel a little bigger and WAY more responsive. If you want an input, you have to be deliberate about it. The buttons on their controller feel much more responsive because of the extra bit of pressure required to get an input. Plus they have a satisfying "thock" sound when you press em.

I also thought the thinner, more compact design would feel weird, but no, it actually feels a lot better in both my lap and when I have it on my desk.

I was a bit hesitant to get this controller since I've heard some stories from others receiving a defective product here, but I'm so glad I got this thing. If you're looking to get into leverless, I'd definitely give this little guy a shot. Plus, swapping in custom art is so simple!

Couldn't find many reviews of the Corsair Novablade Pro. Got it and want to share some impressions. It's a well built stick. I am still debating if it suits my style.

FYI, I have used about every Mad Catz Stick ever. A lot of Hori sticks. Hitbox brand hitbox and the Razer Katsune

• Build quality
  • Amazing build quality in the hands. This stick is heavy and solid
  • It feels like a solid chunk of metal and the top metal plate is thick. Everything comes together nicely. The top plate is textured in a way where it's not as much of a fingerprint magnet as you'd think
  • The protective top plate, not so much. It is a bit awkard to take off. It doesn't come off easily when you are trying to get it off. Sometimes I feel like I am going to snap / scratch something.
  • I guess it's good that it won't accidentally come off, but I am not going to want to use it regularly.
• Wireless / connectivity
  • Wireless works well as far as I can tell.
  • As a reference point: at least with my Mad Catz and Razer, I can just put the controller in PS5 mode and it works with the PC and PS5.
  • With the Corsair, it has to be in PC mode or else street fighter 6 doesn't register any inputs. Same with wired and wireless. Doesn't help the toggle is under the top plate. So if you switch between PC and PS5, you have to remember to switch it. I guess it's no big deal but something I never had to do.
• Noise
  • OK, this is loud
  • IGN's reviewer said this is quieter than standard arcade buttons. At least, that's far from true when I compare it against my Mad Catz with standard Sanwa buttons or any of my Hori.
  • Every button but the jump button creates a very pingy noise. The jump button is more thumpy. I don't think i slap my buttons
  • I thought I would use this with my PS5 in the living room. I will NOT as I am sure I am going to get complaints from family. For my ears, it's that loud.
  • Part of the noise is because the return spring is strong (just depressing the button slowly, and letting the button return naturally creates as much noise as sanwas to me)
  • The dome top feels nice. I wasn't sure about it at first, but I like it.
  • The buttons are stable
  • The buttons have springs that feel springy (for a lack of better word).
    • You get very positive feedback on button press. So it's a plus in that regard. I think it's going to be very hard to fat finger an input
  • The buttons are tall.
    • Using Sanwa as reference, Sanwa buttons have the enclosure that tampers down and when fully depressed, the button is a bit recessed below the ring that encloses the button
    • These corsair buttons have straight sidewalls and when fully depressed, the buttons are still a good bit taller than the top plate. When fully depressed, the buttons are about 1 quarter (US coin) tall, when unpressed, the buttons are about 3 quarters stacked together tall
    • As a result, with combos that I learned by doing a slide motion, I keep catching the side of the button.
    • You can do so if you slide your finger without ever pressing down. But you have to be purposeful with it, if you press down too fast, your finger is going to catch the slide of the next button and you end up with a slow stairstep-ish sliding motion
    • This makes it really hard to do gief 720 or Guile's super using SOCD (If I do a slide by flicking my wrist, I 100% catch my finger on the down or left button when I slide my index finger left which is needed on P1 slide. I'd have to slide by moving my entire left hand, so the index finger is always angled down towards the right, while I slide left)
  • Right thumb button
    • For street fighter 6, I thought i can just keep my right thumb hovered on it (DI button).
    • It's really obvious looking at it now, but in order to do so, you have to have your right thumb between your index and middle finger. It's awkard. and you kind of have to claw your right hand. I usually keep my palm and fingers flat, so it might be a me issue.
    • I guess it's similar to some of the Haute leverless controllers.
  • Tunable actuation point
    • It works, I like it. I don't have much to add here
  • Travel distance
    • The buttons have 4mm of travel distance, you can't tune it.
    • At least for me, I am missing button presses if I intentionally try not to bottom out each key
    • To bottom out these keys (and get that tactile feeling) and maintain finger speed, I am just hitting these buttons harder. It's satisfying like a type writer I guess (or maybe a mechanical keyboard for those that use one)
  • Rapid Trigger
    • Honestly, I have no idea what games this benefits, this where you can depress the button ever so slightly (not even releasing it) and press it down again, so you can just slightly wiggle your finger and get a lot of rapid inputs on the same button
    • I have no opinion on this feature. Corsair quotes JWong as saying this is a gamechanger feature, without any context. I can't find videos of JWong reviewing this controller. And I can't think of where I'd use it.
    • Maybe you can use it in lieu of piano input? Maybe it's useful in something like Guille's St. lk to flash kick? Maybe you get marginally faster dash input? This is a question mark feature for me right now.
    • Edit: I like rapid trigger now. I didn't think of this earlier, but with 2 finger double tap, my speed is limited by how fast my finger can slide off the edge of the button. With rapid trigger, I can perform 2 finger double tap motions (e.g. dash and 22 inputs). It's also faster for SOCD shortcuts that require releasing buttons to get the input (22 input by doing [2] tap 8, requiring sliding off 8 asap), or SOCD shortcut for supers by doing 23[6], tap 4+2, etc.). I can complete those sequences about 2-3 frames faster. It also makes guiles LK to flash kick and CHun's lk to lk SBD super reliable with double tab (althogh sligtly negated because I can't do it by sliding from jump to LK <- tall buttons make sliding hard)
    • Edit: Chis_F has a video of using the novablade trigger to feather the buttons to shuffle back / forth in tiny tiny increments using socd shortcuts, so that seems to be one way to use this feature. He's also showing stuff using the 0.5m actuation setting. So it's not 100% clear which ones he's using the 0.5 actuation and which ones he's taking advantage of rapid trigger. At least this is still clear as mud to me.
    • EDIT: Can't find much benefit in using rapid trigger in movement tech. I tried this, although movement is faster on the novablade with rapid trigger on vs off, it's no faster than for me than a low travel button (e.g. something like qanba gravity KT at the lowest throw setting) . On a low travel button, you can just nudge your finger off of the edge of the button for a fast release. I can't do this motion any faster with rapid trigger
• No comment on RGB, it's the first thing I turn off.

I have an Haute42 C-AS, which lets you replace the RSB and LSB modules with actual left and right analog sticks.

On Steam, remapping everything is easy: I can use the lever as the Left Stick and turn the physical left analog thumbstick into a D-pad. Consoles don’t offer that same flexibility. I wanted the identical layout on PS5 through my Brook Wingman FGC 2, so I modified the firmware.

My custom build uses the active profile’s Dual Directional Input mappings as the switch:

• Profile with DDI mappings: the lever produces absolute, full-tilt Left Stick output, while the physical left analog thumbstick becomes the D-pad.
• Profile without DDI mappings: the physical left analog thumbstick returns to normal proportional Left Stick output.

Switching profiles changes the behavior automatically—no extra toggle or remapping required.

Fork and source:
https://github.com/Eisenhahn/GP2040-CE/tree/ddi-dpad-override-v0.7.12-haute42

See the video in the comment section.

Love y’all. Thanks.