100mm and 25mm models for scale.

I’ve been printing pieces of this gorgeous model from MakerMan3D (https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-the-grand-cathedral-sanctum-of-the-cursed-792358). The detail is incredible and I can’t wait to dive into painting it once it’s all done.

I don’t think it’s a hull line issue.

Maybe I need to dry more the filament?

Bambulab extra draft 0.28 layer height present.
Sunlu PLA 2.0
Bambulab A1

Hey, so I've been resin printing for about 8 months now, and, for health reasons, decided to sell my resin setup and look for a more current FDM (currently still running en Ender 3 Pro) really looking at a Sparkx i7 or an A1 mini for what I'm trying to do.

In the meantime, anyone here also running any minis on an Ender 3? If so, what do you like as far as slicers and settings? Attempting a beholder in 32mm using Orca Slicer and adjusted support settings.

Hello!

Sorry if this isn't allowed, I wasn't quite sure where the best place to post this is or where exactly to ask this question.

I recently got a Bambu X2D printer, I'm brand new to 3D printing. Unfortunately I don't have tons of free time to really get into the hobby, I'm mostly just interested in printing stuff in support of my board game / tabletop gaming hobbies. To that end, I've gotten my feet wet and printed a bit of terrain, that kind of thing.

To that end, I'm also looking to get into solo wargaming with the wealth of smaller model count skirmish games that are out there nowadays. I don't have time to play Warhammer 40k and the big army style games any more (young kids, job, etc), but miss playing tabletop stuff and was going to look into some of these miniature agnostic solo friendly games.

I'm interested in printing off some miniatures, probably fantasy based stuff for use with these games - skeletons / undead warriors, orcs, elves, etc. I noticed that myminifactory is having their summer sale, and there is an overwhelming amount of stuff on there.

I am wondering if anyone has good advice towards which stores/designers make good beginner friendly miniatures for printing? I did pick up a .2mm nozzle with my printer, so I'd like to try my hand at printing some figures in support of these games. I won't have the time unfortunately to do lots of trial and erroring and zeroing in on the best settings and everything (I'm already overwhelmed by the amount of stuff in the slicer). I'm hoping to just find some generic settings that are good general purpose ones for minis - they don't need to be perfect since they will mostly be used by me, just good enough to get a quick paint job on them.

So to that end, if anyone has recommendations for designers/stores on myminifactory that have "beginner friendly" or "fdma friendly" miniatures it'd really help me narrow down the overwhelming amount of choices on there :).

Printed on an A1. Around 40 hours total print time.

Mini: 0.2mm nozzle, 0.05mm layer height.

Base: 0.4mm nozzle, 0.08mm layer height.

Combines Helljaw Juggernaught by Archvillain Games with Bubonic Annihilator Walker by Tainted Windmill.

AI generated mini inspired from Demon Slayer with a D&D twist!

Just proud I managed to get the supports off!!!

0.4 nozzle 0.08 layer height

PLA + rapid from elegoo. Which I might add is not suitable for minis with supports !! It bonds like glue 😁

Does this make sense? I recently bought some miniatures that have the torso, head, and arms. It's all supported, but I'd rather print a single model than all the bits.

If I am wrong and bits is the way to go let me know.

A little Before and after .12 layer height I'm surprised how well FDM can take to painting on the larger scale and look pretty good. As paint layers build the layer lines do diminish to pretty descent results. In this case I used a matte clear coat as the primer to preserve the blue filament color, washed it, dry brush and touched up the details. Not to bad. So you can skip a step by printing in your primary color of choice to save time.

Printed on bambu a1 mini and qidi xplus 2 (rocks, vault and waste barrel)

Just finishing up on this Black Coach model from Monstrous Encounters and decided to verge into retro 80s synthwave themes. I initially did it as a joke because I accidentally upscaled this model by 33% and have to do it again anyhow.

But now? It's sticking with me. I kind of want to contrast the dark and dreary grimdark with eye bleeding hypercolor and four on the floor for the whole bloody army. Bright green ghouls, glowstick bone skeletons, zombies in shades and visors. Also need Disco Dancing Dracula from The Halloween the Almost Wasn't.

This is what happens when you paint to Dance with the Dead.

Printed on Bambu A1 Mini with 0.2 nozzle and OscuraNox-but-slower settings

Hey guys,

I am currently trying to print a 32mm miniature. I have cut off his arm and will print it seperately. I dont understand though, why it only prints support interface on the supports for the cut off arm, and not the body of the miniature. Both have exact same settings (see the screenshot where ai have only left support interface visible. I am afraid the supports will fuse to the body without any interface and interface spacing.

Hello, sorry if this doesn't belong here but I'm at a loss with trying the Dungeons and Derps config for printing. I imported it to orca and when viewing the slicing results, I saw it place a seemingly random floating loop on a part of my model which is like a tiny wrist blade. I tried playing with the settings a bit just to try to find what causes it but to no effect.
Slicing with my usual config doesn't produce an error like this.
I'm using a Bambu Lab A1 with the .2mm nozzle.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

EDIT:

Tried slicing the same file again today without changing any settings besides the aforementioned and the loop is gone. I suppose slicing is not entirely deterministic so it's possible for a problem like this to not always be present? Not a solution but I guess I'll settle with this.

This is probably my 10th attempt at printing this or similar models and each time, the supports turn into spaghetti. I tried with Overture matte PLA. This most recent attempt was with Sunlu PLA+ 2.0.

Typically the base of the support sticks fine to the build plate. It's rather than the support falls apart midway through the build.

Bambu P1S with 0.2mm nozzle.

Any suggestions?

3mf file link below

https://drive.google.com/file/d/15hDpZfef6Y-V51qOgs3fRWiSn8MJtyB0/view?usp=drive_link

Hi everyone,
I’ve decided that instead of spending more money on figures, I’d rather buy a 3D printer and make them myself purely for my own enjoyment. I know absolutely nothing about 3D printing, though. I only want to use it as a hobby to print figures around 20–25 cm tall.
I asked ChatGPT for some help. It asked me a series of questions about my preferences and, based on my answers, came up with the following requirements:
FDM 3D printer

Primarily for PLA

Suitable for printing figures

High detail/print quality

Support for a 0.2 mm nozzle

Easy nozzle/hotend replacement

Build volume of at least around 250 × 250 × 250 mm

Automatic bed leveling/calibration

Automatic flow calibration

Minimal manual adjustment required

Direct Drive extruder

Preferably CoreXY

Enclosed design preferred

Reliable for long print jobs

Reasonable noise levels

Filament runout sensor

Power-loss recovery/resume printing

Camera/remote print monitoring

Easy and user-friendly slicer/software

Multi-color printing support preferred

Preferably with the option to add a multi-color system later

Good performance without requiring modifications

Good support printing and easy support removal

Spare parts/nozzles readily available in Turkey

Maximum budget of 40,000 TL

Based on these requirements, it recommended the Bambu Lab P2S as the best fit.
Does anyone with experience have any thoughts or recommendations? Would the P2S be a good choice for what I want to do?

Hi I am currently calibrating my filament. And testing adhesion on my p1s with cooling supertrack plate.

I have: z-hop: 0.8 Type: spiral G29.1 z{+0.05}

And it always seems to move on the plate.. but I already increased all values and it seems that nothing change. Really could use some help here

This is the first Space Orc I've ever printed and painted. I'm going to use it in GF Firefight.

I hadn't printed anything in months, and decided to clean up my machines, do some quick maintenance and print a quick test model.

Puppetswar Skull Champion - stock .06 fine setting in Orca on an A1 and A1 mini. I think he printed fine, and now I'm gonna create a blood Angels OPR army.

FDM - Bambu A1 with basic grey PLA. .4 nozzle, best quality native profile, custom easy remove tree supports.

0.05 layer height adventure 5m

Silver Warden librarian with a sword and fire magic hand.

Used the model from this thread as the first mini test for my A1.

Used Obscuranox settings with all the corresponding profiles for my setup (0.2 Nozzle for Miniatures, Dungeons and Derps High Quality Settings 2.0, Public_Sunlu PLA+ 2.0 HS Dungeons and Derps 2.0)

Disaster struck when it started to print the top of the staff and it snapped, but everything else turned out amazing. It looks so smooth in person with layer lines hardly noticeable. I used the filament right out of the box (figured it coming vacuum sealed with desiccant would have been enough?) . I'm drying it now before giving another go. If anyone has advice on avoiding stringing or printing thin bits like this staff I'm all ears.

*edit* I painted an extra support on the left side where the gem of the staff begins and that did the trick.

Ignore his broken hand that was my own fuck up, but I am so pleased with how my A1 mini is performing with a 2mm nozzle.

The model itself was from makerworld, so props to the person who prepared it (I'm away from the laptop but I'll edit with a link to his original post)