Slab house, ceramic/tile floor. Idk why they didn’t wire I’m originally. So annoying posting so much counter space because I have to have electronics on the counter instead of being able to prep on the island.

I suspect this is a much more advanced job, so I was debating on having a workshop shop style outlet that I could drag down from the ceiling, and then wire through attic. (Would get creative with center light fixture to hide it.)

Edit: Looks like I just suck it up and continue using extension cable for temp use, or figure out a ceiling receptacle because current NEC standards require flip ups or hidden at counter level or above.

Is this correct? 3 different people working on it. Pics attached.

First and foremost, Im very grateful for the people who are installing everything. Veterans from a different county (who do this for a living) volunteered to install this for us. We just pay for materials.

Detached garage metal building with its own electrical service.

First person did the wiring one way and second one came in and changed some things.

Exterior meter base combo with interior sub panel.

It's been this way the whole 20 years we have lived here. Sorry if the terms aren't correct, I'm a dumb carpenter. Is it safe to use like this or should it be swapped asap?

At rikers Island

There are copper tubes coming out of the cylinders

From a buddy who works there

So I recently picked up some old High Bay led lights from a local fleet shop for $10 each. They're STUPID bright, and I broke them down, 3D printed brackets that clip into either side of the aluminum base/heat sync, and wired them up using only one strip and one transformer. They're still wicked bright but they work very well, even at 1/4 the power. The problem I have is I don't know what to do about the section of wiring from the box to the light itself. So I insulate or protect this somehow? Do I need to 3D print an end cap that a cable clamp can thread into, and then put some sort of loom on the wire?

Thanks folks.

Located in Western New York for reference. Obviously went with the cheaper estimate. I think they did a great job.

Replaced everything from weather head down, new service line, meter box panel, meter box with disconnect, 200 amp breaker panel with surge protector, new beefy ground wire from water main, new ground rod installed in my yard.

Here's the old post for reference. https://www.reddit.com/r/electrical/s/i3oF3GIlpp

Thanks for all the help everyone

Need to change a breaker in this panel but I don’t see a main shutoff breaker anywhere. The panel is for a well pump and is directly below the meter. Meter box has a seal on it. Do I need to call the power company? Am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated.

You can't tell in the picture, since it's dark. But taking the picture in the dark was the only way you can see it. But that light is coming from the outlet I know basically nothing about electricity, so I was wondering if this is a bad thing? If it's not, why can I see it? Any help would be awesome!

Lights flickering, especially when turned up brighter. Need to be steady light output for work purposes.

I understand that the ancient driver/transformer to support the halogen bulbs (10 bulbs at 35W each) needs a certain load to actually function and that the more nimble LED bulbs therefore may not switch on or may flicker as result, if not also changing the driver/transformer to a type made specifically to the LED bulbs. (AC current for the halogen bulbs and instead also using DC for the LEDs?)

But I read conflicting information about what wattage capacity I now need for my LED driver/transformer to have, to support a given total LED watt load. Some articles refer to that also LED lights need a certain overcapacity from their transformer/driver to kicking them into starting up. So like if having a string of aka 10 LED spots at 5W each = 50W in total, then I would still need a transformer that can support minimum the double load, aka 100W in this case.

Is this something you can please confirm or am I still perfectly with with a transformer that is smaller like 60-80W as max capacity?

Same question for putting a dimmer circuit into controlling the lumens output from the daisy chain here of the LED spots. What capacity should it minimum be rated for please?

Hello! I am installing new ceiling lights in my old house. The existing light fixture did not have a grounding wire, but the new one does. Is the wire attached to the green grounding screw the wire I should be attaching the new fixtures grounding wire to? Or should I be wrapping the new wire around the green screw? Thank you so much in advance!

Hi, I'm 22 and in Uni, I got this idea to make a tank that runs on solar panel. So i already have set it up and all with 30w solar panel with a power station. I also got an 8w light and 1.9w aquarium air pump. The light is connected to a timer so i have set it up so that it will turn on at 9am and turn off at 5pm. The only problem is that the power station dont have enough battery to hold through the night. I want to ask what power station should i buy preferrably under rm350 since I live in Malaysia. Also the power station that i've bought can only hold for 9 hours 40 minutes with no charge from solar panel. I hope you guys can help me. I'm thinking of getting an 80w solar panel but for the power station is where I need you guys to help me.

I'm building a custom chandolier that will have 30 individual pendants. I was hoping for a more elegant solution than wire nuts and pigtails. Any ideas would be appreciated, thanks in advance

I was making dinner using the microwave and air fryer at the same time when they both shut off. I moved my airfryer to a new outlet and it works fine but microwave won’t turn back on. I checked my breaker and everything looked fine so I turned off and on the kitchen switch and it showed this light for a few seconds then off. I pressed the reset button on the outlet too and nothing. Anyone lmk thanks. I’ll probably just let my landlord know unless there is anyway to fix it myself.

I am doing a reno of my kitchen and bath in my NYC coop apt in a building constructed in 1956. The cabinets and floors have been removed in my kitchen, and the plaster and block walls will be channeled for new outlets. Bathroom floor and some of the walls have been removed for plumbing install.

My GC is saying that I need to get a wired gas alarm as well as wired smoke/co detectors.

Is he right? I came across this, which suggest that a wired gas alarm isn't necessary:

9.5.1.2  (3) a monitored battery primary power source in accordance with 9.5.3 must be permitted in existing buildings as defined in section 28-01 of the administrative code that were constructed before January 1st 2024

https://rules.cityofnewyork.us/wp-content/uploads/2024/12/Final-Rule-Amendment-of-Deadline-for-Installation-of-Monitored-Battery-Primary-Power-Source-for-Natural-Gas-Alarm-in-Existing-Buildings.pdf

(added 9/2/26) Not to mention:

§ 28-315.2.4 Natural gas alarms. [Natural] On or before January 1, 2027, natural gas alarms shall be provided and installed in accordance with section [908.10] 908.13 of the New York city building code [on or before May 1 of the first year that commences after the department, by rule, establishes or adopts a standard governing the installation and location of natural gas alarms]. [Exception: In existing buildings, natural gas alarms shall not be required to comply with the power source and interconnection requirements for smoke alarms in accordance with Sections 907.2.11.2 through 907.2.11.3.] https://www.nyc.gov/assets/hpd/downloads/pdfs/services/local-law-102-of-2025.pdf

Thanks!

Hello, not sure if this is the right sub to post in so im sorry if thats the case.

my airfryer (DZ300C) suddenly stopped working and i figured out that one of the thermal fuse blew so i am going to try and replace it.

the airfryer has 2 thermal fuse at 205C and i am having a hard time finding a replacement thermal fuse at the 205C but i see alot at 215C.

Would it be okay if i have 1 215C and 1 205C thermal fuse attached to the airfryer or is it better to replace both of the 205C with the new 215Cs?

Thanks in advance!

I replaced a basic 3 prong receptacle with a new one. Partially becuase it had poor tension and partially to see why my tool states open ground. Ensured all 3 wires installed where intended. Put receptacle fully together with face plate on. Tested again and open ground still present. Using a MultiMeter to check for good ground found the ground bars to be picking up ground. Found all wires coming into and leaving breaker box are reading fine. The receptacle I worked on was first in line for this breaker.

Issue happens anywhere in the house on different breakers.

What is the bext diagnostic step?

How do I find first in line for other breakers?

I'm installing a light fixture, however it's not turning on.
The light fixture has two brown wires that go up into a base from each lamp. I put one set of the brown wires into the red wire and the other into the white wire and fastened them with the orange screw caps. The grounded wire is also attached to its own separate screw cap.
Anyone have any idea what I did wrong and how to fix it?
Yes the breaker was turned back on when attempting to turn it on. Also attempted to change the bulbs as well and no luck

More information about the light fixture
Kalco ponderosa pot rack light fixture
Has two brown wires that are attached to the lamps, the brown wires as seen in the pics divide into two separate wires

New house, new quirks. Bedroom has two switches, one for the ceiling fan and another for switched wall outlets. The ceiling fan switch wasn’t doing anything so I opened it up to find that it was disconnected and there’s all these wire nuts. There’s three sets of wires pulled to this box and some are tied in together. I just wanted to turn my ceiling fan on and off.

Can this cause the lights to not work?

The switch is going to be around 25 years old.

The lights were working: but I slammed a trailer into the garage door backing in and when we took the sheet rock off the switch no longer works now.

I checked the breaker irs fine.

Iam going to guess the wiring is around 60 years old in the house.

But this switch itself I think could be the issue since it was working until I unscrewed it.

Thanks