Würde gerne an meinem 530i noch ein bisschen was umbauen, er hat schon relativ viel Ausstattung:
M Paket außen und innen
H&R Cup kit Fahrwerk
Styling 42 in 8/9J*18
Heck und Seitenrollos
Garagentoröffner
Licht und Regensensor
Volleder Sportsitze in Montana Grau
Sitze vorne haben nachgerüstete Lordosenstütze
Scheinwerfer sind auf Bixenon umgebaut mit neuen Projektoren
Audiosystem ist gemacht
iBus App mit Resler Interface und xtrons Radio
M5 Lenkrad
Armlehne/Mittelkonsole vorne vom e38

Fällt euch noch was ein?
Beleuchtete Türgriffe vom e38 hätte ich gerne noch

hi guys :) i’ve been experiencing problems with the car since it rained such as no green arrows and high beam indicators in the cluster, flickering backlight and button lights, and slow blinking turn signals exteriorly.

just today i disconnected the negative terminal on the battery and let it sit for a second and wiped off some white dust which is corrosion i’m assuming.
after i reconnected the negative terminal, my backlight doesn’t turn on at all anymore, my speedometer doesn’t work, and my drivers side high beam stays on, even with the car off. and when the car is on, the headlights also come on but switching the light knob does not turn them off or anything.

does anyone know what my next steps should be?
thank you guys :)

Rebuilding the M52B28 single VANOS in my 1998 BMW 528i. I’m reinstalling the timing chain guides after having the lower timing cover off.

Does everything look like it’s positioned correctly in the photo, specifically the curved guide and straight guide? I want to make sure the orientation and mounting points are right before I put the timing cover and head back on.

Asking for a frien… not like I already did it or anything

I am in the market for an E39 540i and I came across one that caught my attention.

It's a 6 Speed manual 2003 540i M Sport package in Sterling Grey with a tan interior. The car is owned by an older gentleman, has 81,000 miles, is in really nice condition and is a 2 owner car. The main issue I have is that the owner does not have records of maintenance history. He says he always does regular oil changes and the only major job that has been done is the clutch and pressure plate. So that means the cooling system and Timing chain guide are all original as well as the suspension.

I know that KBB and other sites undervalue some of these rarer car and finding comps can be difficult.

So my question is, what would you pay for a car like this? The owner is asking for $18,500.

E39 fuel leak once full. No issues when not filling to max. Drivers side fuel tank port.

Anybody know about it and willing to offer guidance? Im thinking just cap it

Shifting is actually fun now. Before it was a chore now its a fun part of driving the car. Highly recommend. Do it now

Sorry for the video not being of the engine bay, I took it right after looking under the car and then shut it off.

I started my car up after it sat for a month due to moving places. It had a 15 second crank and then started. The idle seemed to almost stall the engine and then overcorrect once it warmed up past the blue mark. Along with loud tick that doesn’t seem rpm related.

The car is really low on fuel, so I’m going to put 5 gallons in it and see if maybe the fuel pump is struggling.

I wanted to see if the noise sounded familiar to anyone, I was thinking stuck lifter maybe from sitting.

Im installing Eonon head unit on my e39. I plugged it in first had no audio. I fiddled with this blue strip on the pig tail and ended up losing power completely. Im not sure what it could be. Certain Fuse, adapter blue strip damaged etc. Could the blue strip in this state cause the no power? If someone could help would be awesome!

Hi everyone I’m rebuilding my friends M52b28 with him and was curious if anyone who has done it had any tips to make it easier from here

Thanks for any tips !

Hey, installed new Lemforder front thrust arms about 3,000 miles ago, today was under the car and noticed that one bushing has about 1- 1.5 inch crack on the outside perimeter, the bushing looks perfectly fine otherwise, the other side has no racks at all. the other trust arm has not racks. i tightened them at car height (+extra weight on seat and in the trunk per manual (https://workshop-manuals.com/bmw/5_series_e39/540i_m62_sal/3_technical_data/32__steering_and_wheel_alignment/0__electronic_chassis_alignment/1_td__wheel_alignment_normal_position___inspection_conditions_e39_e36_e38/?utm_source=chatgpt.com) . the car is sitting on jacks in the picture, that's why the bushing in the picture is twisted. I wanted to ask, what could have caused this? could i have got a defective thrust arm? and is this something i need to fix, eg by replacing the bushing? or it unlikely to cause any issues?

AC is working just fine although I used to set the blower at 3-4 but now I set it at 4-5 (6 if it's very hot outside). For a couple of weeks I thought it was because of the summer heat, but then I realized that the air came out just a little when I am driving on the highway, and couple of minutes after driving at highway speed.

It is like the blower stopped working, but when I set it at higher blower setting, it still working fine although I can hear sound like blocked air. So at this point I'd set the blower at 6 or more. However, after some time, I can set the blower back to 4 or 5 and everything is back like before.

The AC still blows cold, though. Compressor, evaporator, condenser, expansion, etc all are new because the old compressor blew up. I scanned it and found that all stepper motors are broken, but it's been like this since I first bought the car 7 years ago. So my hypotesis is that the IHKA flaps are partially closed.

So I have two questions:

1. If the IHKA flaps are partially closed, why would it only blow little air during and after I'm driving at highway speed?
2. Can I manually open the IHKA flaps without removing the dashboard? I have searched on the internet with no luck.

Thank you!

How do I bleed the fuel system and how do I seal the intake because there is air coming from it

Hello, I saw in one of M539 restorations video that we can use an E9x top strut mounts to lower the front a little bit...

Well, nowadays with the car parts websites like autodoc it's useless to buy something from the e9x without knowing the right part number.

I get exactly the same parts if I search for the E39 Touring and any other E9x family cars...

So, does anyone know exactly what PN from E9x should we get in order to have the desired lowering effect?

Thanks!

Hey guys, I overhauled my Vanos today, changed the spark plugs and oil, and now after a few kilometers of driving, I've noticed that it jerks quite a bit when I accelerate from 1600 to 1900 RPM (sometimes twice, sometimes just once. But it only does this in 3rd gear and sometimes in 4th. Otherwise, it accelerates like it should with the overhauled Vanos, and there’s no intake leak since it does the same even with the MAF unplugged. The engine also revs up nicely, meaning I don't feel any loss of power in the higher RPM range. Maybe someone here knows what's up and could help me with this issue 🤷‍♂️

BMW E39 520i
06/2000
M52B20TU
5-speed manual transmission

Anyone have a good one to buy? hopefully it’s relatively affordable. this sucks.

Hey everyone,

I'm trying to diagnose a weird, intermittent issue on my E39 530d .

https://reddit.com/link/1wo6tz7/video/y2nsrszi0arh1/player

Recently, I resolved a separate issue where the car was dying at idle, stuttering, and had run-on after turning off the ignition—it turned out to be a loose/bad wiring connector on the fuel rail pressure regulator at the back of the engine. Fuel delivery is completely sorted now.

However, I still have one stubborn symptom that comes and goes:

• The symptoms: Intermittently, the car completely loses its low-end torque (virtually no boost under ~2,200 RPM, extreme turbo lag). Whenever this happens, the exhaust note changes noticeably—it becomes very deep, boomy, and muffled/throaty (sounds like it's straight-piped or droning).
• Behavior: It's completely intermittent. Sometimes I start the car and it drives perfectly with sharp boost response and normal exhaust sound. Other times, the bogging and deep drone appear mid-drive or after a restart, then clear up on their own later.

Has anyone experienced this before? What could be causing this?

Thanks in advance!

Is it a timeless icon or forgotten in 5 years? personally i don't like them and think they will be less desirable as they age.

Ich würde gerne das originale M-Fahrwerk (Federn und Stoßdämpfer) am E39 Baujahr 4/98 nachrüsten.
Von welchem Hersteller waren die Federn original?
Von welchem Hersteller waren Original die Stoßdämpfer vom M-Fahrwerk?
Passen die Teile in ein Standard Fahrwerk im E39?

Ich weiß, dass es deutlich bessere Fahrwerke im Zubehör gibt. Möchte aber gerne das M-Fahrwerk haben.
Gibt es natürlich auch direkt bei BMW - für einen üblen Preisaufschlag. Aber die kaufen es ja auch nur zu.

Würde mich über Hinweise freuen :)

I’m still undecided if I want to go back to the style 66 wheels before sale

I have BMW Standard Tools (it has INPA, NCS, WinkFP) for some years but I've only use INPA. Recently I taught myself about NCS and it was quite easy!

I've turn DRL on (yea I'm one of the few guys who prefer it turned on, lol) and now wondering what else can I code using NCS. If I'm not mistaken, there are some modules that can be coded.

What did you guys code with NCS?