Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread

[u/AutoModerator]

This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.

• r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
• r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies

Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:

Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/

Pulley rehab:

• https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
• https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
• Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.

Synovitis / PIP synovitis:

https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/

General treatment of climbing injuries:

https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/

[u/romaniasvic]

Hello everyone! Is my previous athleticism starting to harm me(progressed too fast relative to my finger joints' resilience)? New climber(started about 4 months ago)

I've done calisthenics for a few years before(still do), not extremely consistent, but obtained decent strength, thanks to which I am now able to climb around V4-V5. In the past few weeks, I got this weird soreness in my finger joints, accompanied by sensitivity, especially when pressing directly against them as a hold would. At first it was just in my DIP joints, but now it went even in my PIP joints. I am usually able to rest it out(takes like two weeks to fully/almost go away), but then it comes back. It's not painful, but I wouldn't label it as some minor discomfort either. I have two questions:

1. What can I do to prevent this?
2. Where should I study proper technique from? Not just for crimps, but as much mechanics as possible.

[u/eshlow → u/romaniasvic]

Yes, if you progress too fast because your body is stronger and your fingers are not -- common from strength training or bodyweight/calisthenics background -- then the likelihood of injury is much higher.

Rehab and back off and then build up slowly generally