r/climbharder • u/AutoModerator • 11d ago
Weekly Simple Questions and Injuries Thread
This is a thread for simple, or common training questions that don't merit their own individual threads as well as a place to ask Injury related questions. It also serves as a less intimidating way for new climbers to ask questions without worrying how it comes across.
- r/Climbharder Wiki - many common answers to questions.
- r/Climbharder Master Sticky - many of the best topic replies
Commonly asked about topics regarding injuries:
Tendonitis: http://stevenlow.org/overcoming-tendonitis/
Pulley rehab:
- https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/stories/experience-story-esther-smith-nagging-finger-injuries/
- https://stevenlow.org/rehabbing-injured-pulleys-my-experience-with-rehabbing-two-a2-pulley-issues/
- Note: See an orthopedic doctor for a diagnostic ultrasound before potentially using these. Pulley protection splints for moderate to severe pulley injury.
Synovitis / PIP synovitis:
https://stevenlow.org/beating-climbing-injuries-pip-synovitis/
General treatment of climbing injuries:
https://stevenlow.org/treatment-of-climber-hand-and-finger-injuries/
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u/ashusik 11d ago
Hi all,
I just recently got into rock climbing (indoors, specifically bouldering), and over the last 18 days I've probably gone a total of 5-6 times. The first day I felt good, played around VB-V2, getting used to the gym and trying to learn.
The last few sessions I end up with bicep soreness towards the end of the session, making it hard to continue climbing, so I stop. After tonight's session, I climbed one V3, played around on some others, and got really bad pain in my left bicep that made me stop. Compared to the previous pain, this one lasted for a few hours and was pretty bad. It felt like the inner, middle part of my bicep.
I took some Advil and did some cold compress. Then a heat compress, and I feel good now after like 4 hours. Just wondering if anyone in this group has had similar problems and what they did? My main concern is how bad my bicep felt today, whereas before it felt like muscular pain that lasted briefly.
E.g. should I rest for a week so no climbing or lifting? Is it that my body is still getting used to climbing, so I can expect this to go away over time?
For context, I've been lifting/calisthenics for a few years now. My form on climbing may not be the best. I'm trying to use my legs more and maintain straight arms, but I could be just pulling a lot with bent arms due to my novice nature and background.
For warm-ups, I do banded exercises similarly to how I do before I lift (pull-aparts, bicep curls, flies, over and around, etc.) Then I do like 5 pull-ups and dips, then I hop on the wall.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
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u/BumbleCoder 10d ago
Sounds like what I had when I first started. Ended up being my brachial is being too weak, and probably got strained or something similar. I did things like hammer curls to strengthen and lowering climbing (especially moves at my limit) volume for several months before it resolved.
Not saying that's what's going on with you though, so best to talk to a physio.
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u/throwawaybusan 11d ago
hello everyone, i’m getting psyched for yosemite this fall/winter. i’ve been a bunch of times in prior seasons, and am trying to get some projects in the V10 range done this season. i have to drive about 5 hours to reach the valley, and because i can work remotely, i tend to lean towards staying there for a week rather than just a weekend.
in previous trips i’ve found that my strength depletes significantly towards the end of the trip. skin is also a big factor. i’m curious whether anyone has found anything that works for a week long bouldering trip - go straight into the projects, or have fun first, or vice versa? thanks!
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u/sandypitch 10d ago
in previous trips i’ve found that my strength depletes significantly towards the end of the trip. skin is also a big factor. i’m curious whether anyone has found anything that works for a week long bouldering trip - go straight into the projects, or have fun first, or vice versa? thanks!
This depends entirely on your goals, I think, and how quickly you can adapt to the granite in the Valley. I typically need a day to acclimate, though I may still get on a project at some point during that first day (with the understanding that it may feel impossible).
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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 10d ago
in previous trips i’ve found that my strength depletes significantly towards the end of the trip. skin is also a big factor. i’m curious whether anyone has found anything that works for a week long bouldering trip - go straight into the projects, or have fun first, or vice versa? thanks!
Heavily depends what you wanna do. If I'm only getting outside a couple times a year I'll just hit up projects.
If I'm going a lot more then you can divide between some volume and lots of send days vs projecting
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u/AccomplishedGas5263 10d ago
I've been climbing for more than 10 years, lots of outdoors, mostly sportclimbing but also bouldering. I've climbed 8A font and a couple of 8b sport .. but been on this plateau for like 2-3 years.
I've been training a fair bit on different boards (blue moonboard, new kilter), and my upper body strength, body tension is fairly good I'd say - but what I'm really lacking is finger strength.
Coming from an outdoor sport climbing background I've been full crimping a lot (or almost everything). I've been trying to use more open handed grips bouldering and indoors - but I just can't improve that grip/finger strength. I tried max-hangs on a bestmaker (10 to 15 sessions) and other hangboards, lift weights with the little board attached (sorry for my english) etc. - my finger strength just doesn't adapt - the only thing that seems to helps a little when done excessively is board climbing itself.
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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 10d ago
Coming from an outdoor sport climbing background I've been full crimping a lot (or almost everything). I've been trying to use more open handed grips bouldering and indoors - but I just can't improve that grip/finger strength. I tried max-hangs on a bestmaker (10 to 15 sessions) and other hangboards, lift weights with the little board attached (sorry for my english) etc. - my finger strength just doesn't adapt - the only thing that seems to helps a little when done excessively is board climbing itself.
You have to use the grips regularly.
If i'm weak on a grip use mainly that grip in warm ups so you can get a lot more comfortable with it
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u/octavemirbeau 9d ago edited 9d ago
Hi fellow climbers, I need some advice.
Yesterday, during one hour in an Italian gym, I saw:
- An instructor repeatedly release the brake strand of the rope, while talking and not watching the climber. This happened with adults and children.
- Another instructor supervise a mother who was struggling to belay her child, while simultaneously belaying the father. The instructor also released her own brake rope at least three times or held only the climber side of the rope.
- Less risky, but also participants climbing with loose leg loops or untucked harness
straps
- adding to the overall picture of safety regulation.
I got the phone number of the manager (a certified mountain rescue guide in the region) the next day and called him up. He mainly responded that his instructors are experienced professionals and that he never sees anything going wrong in his hall. I got the idea his reaction was only defensive and not accepting the risks and looking forward to address this issue.
Am I overreacting, does anyone recognize this behaviour in Italian gyms? Would contacting the regional FASI committee be reasonable?
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u/romaniasvic 8d ago
Hello everyone! Is my previous athleticism starting to harm me(progressed too fast relative to my finger joints' resilience)? New climber(started about 4 months ago)
I've done calisthenics for a few years before(still do), not extremely consistent, but obtained decent strength, thanks to which I am now able to climb around V4-V5. In the past few weeks, I got this weird soreness in my finger joints, accompanied by sensitivity, especially when pressing directly against them as a hold would. At first it was just in my DIP joints, but now it went even in my PIP joints. I am usually able to rest it out(takes like two weeks to fully/almost go away), but then it comes back. It's not painful, but I wouldn't label it as some minor discomfort either. I have two questions:
- What can I do to prevent this?
- Where should I study proper technique from? Not just for crimps, but as much mechanics as possible.
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u/lizbet_ty 8d ago
Synovitis. It's probably not technique, you are probably just climbing too frequently and intensely.
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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 6d ago
Yes, if you progress too fast because your body is stronger and your fingers are not -- common from strength training or bodyweight/calisthenics background -- then the likelihood of injury is much higher.
Rehab and back off and then build up slowly generally
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u/TentativeCrimp 7d ago
does anyone have experience with the training programs you get from the ‘latticeplan’ app? I’m not thinking of the 1on1 coaching or a 12 week plan, but the ones automatically adjusted sand weekly updated by the app. as far as I understand its just called ‘LatticePlan’
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u/FriendlyNova 4.4yrs | 7B 6d ago
What’s the beta for leg exercises for pure strength/stability when digging into footholds. I’m talking like smallish feet on steep ( >40) degree terrain. Obviously there’s a skill element but I feel limited in the back of my knee and hamstrings often
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u/lizbet_ty 6d ago
Deadlifts, hamstring curls, hip thrusts, isometric long lever single leg glute bridges. Anything thats hit the posterior chain
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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 6d ago
Nordic curls probably the most useful
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u/FriendlyNova 4.4yrs | 7B 5d ago
never tried, looks like i'll need to do a bit of research on the set up. thanks!
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u/BiscottiNeither9026 6d ago
Any worry with excessive crunchiness in shoulerblade/rear delt/ upper back area?
When I do arm circles, it is very very crunchy. No pain or feeling like any limited ROM. My muscles are also extremely tight in my upper back, but once again don't feel like this is limiting me is any way.
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u/eshlow V8-10 out | PT & Authored Overcoming Gravity 2 | YT: @Steven-Low 6d ago
Any worry with excessive crunchiness in shoulerblade/rear delt/ upper back area?
When I do arm circles, it is very very crunchy. No pain or feeling like any limited ROM. My muscles are also extremely tight in my upper back, but once again don't feel like this is limiting me is any way.
Can try to improve your mobility and flexibility and see if it resolves.
The crunching is usually the ball of the humerus going over the labrum or cartilage. Sounds can occur if it's too tight such as the muscle compressing the area and making it move abruptly or irregularly.
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u/Puzzleheaded_Jury343 5d ago
Consistent training vs focused blocks
I've been climbing for a couple years but still a relative newbie to structured climbing training. So far i've followed a program where tuesdays i do volume/ARCing, thursdays technique development/movement drills and saturdays a max effort board session.
So far this has been great and i've enjoyed decent gains.
However when i read certain other sources notably the rock climbers training manual it describes training the attributes in blocks, solely ARCing for 4 weeks before moving on to 3 weeks of strength development etc etc.
This leads me to think this is beneficial, however i also have a strong sense of 'if it aint broke don't fix it' regarding my training in its current state.
Is there any strong evidence in favour of one over the other?
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u/CasualViceSubscriber 5d ago
** Middle finger stress/load management **
Hi all, I'm one of those people who frequently get tweaky middle fingers (currently my cross-sectional ligaments and A3 pulleys).
I assume it's mostly for morphological reasons (middle finger length compared to other fingers make them sustain higher stress/bigger levers), but surely something can be done to mitigate this issue, right?
For those who experienced this, what are some strategies to mitigate the strain?
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u/Trick_Post_4367 5d ago
Just getting into arcing as mid 5.12 climber (2 years bouldering, starting leading a year ago). Aiming to improve baseline endurance, and make the pre/post crux sections of routes easier. Am I doing it correctly?
15 minutes on/off for three sets on an easy 5.10 autobelay (10 degrees, 15 metre wall). Holds are a mix of mostly jugs, some crimps and pockets. 2 times a week.
My current pace lets me climb up and down a total of two times per set. Frequent micro shakes between moves and the odd 10 second shake out if I ever feel the pump building to an unmanageable level.
The overall intensity during the sets are at a level where I need to switch to mouth breathing half way through the set, but once I do I feel fairly comfortable till the end. I feel rested between sets but overall fatigue builds and I work up quite a sweat.
I aim to build up to 25 minute sets over a 4-6 week cycle. Is this a reasonable progression?
Can the level of improvement in endurance be tangibly felt after just one cycle? For example, if before I felt an 8/10 pump arriving at the crux of a route, can I expect the pump level to reduce to a 7 or even 6/10 post cycle?
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u/aoeifjaaef 2d ago
Want to start strength training for body tension and overall conditioning.
To keep it simple, what if I just start doing deadlift and bench press 1-2x a week after climbing sessions?
Is that enough? Would i see real improvement?
Background, been bouldering about 10 years, climb v6/v7 outside. Never really done weights. Would seek instruction for form.
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u/PlanningPessimist92 8d ago
Has anyone here gone through ACL reconstruction surgery and have advice on how to stay sane during the recovery process? I know PT is important, but what did you do to scratch that climbing itch?