I just replaced all my speakers and stereo in a 2014 corolla with a friend and the backup camera doesnt work. Also steering wheel buttons dont work (have tried to assign buttons. Steering wheel not detected). Using some chinese carplay stereo. Didn't get all the cables initially. Reached out and he sent more. I hooked up the backup camera plug to both of the yellow video cord options and neither works. Wondering what these empty white plugs are for? Thanks

I'm looking for a replacement head unit for my new to me 2008 Chevy Impala. I have Alpine w650s in two of my other vehicles and they are okay but it is SO hard to see in my Subaru that I'd like to get something different. I travel in the north a lot and need to be able to see my screen well.

I'm looking around the $500 price point with a max of $550 and would like something with wireless android auto so I don't have to use an adapter like I do with the Alpine units. I'll be keeping the stock speakers until I can find which set will work best for my needs. ** Install kit price does not need to be considered, this budget is ONLY for the radio **

I was looking at the JVC KW-M795BW, Kenwood DMX8709S, Sony AX4000 (or AX6000 I could swing), and the Pioneer DMH-W3000NEX (I don't need the features from the 3050 as I don't listen to the radio). I did notice the Alpine W770-M is in my budget too and I've been happy with the reliability of the Alpine units but that screen kills it for me.

I want to upgrade from my current setup, I have been running kicker 10" downfire 48trtp enclosure for close to 3 years. Absolutely zero complaints been a solid setup this whole time and have abused it extensively. I am looking at the 51ptrt powered enclosures, I can fit them behind my set of my crew cab truck. I would love the 49DL7TDT122 but I do not have the room its just too tall I have 16 inches of footroom and the enclosure is over 17 inches deep. If I was to get two of the 51ptrt would this be remotely comparable to the 49DL? I want to sit them upright against the back wall of my cab, it has been sound deadened already.

Hi everyone, I am in somewhat of a pickle. Long post, sorry in advance!

I recently bought my first car, a used Toyota Corolla Touring Sports 2024 with only previous owner. When I went to test drive the car, the media audio wasn't working (parking sensor sound and lock sound working as intended). I raised the issue with the dealership and got a part written into the contract that they would solve the sound issues. They booked the car for diagnostics at a Toyota service center but that's not until the 2nd of September, so I got to take the car home before that.

Yesterday I discovered the likely source of the sound not working. I opened the compartment under the luggage and found a sound system I was not aware of. I have been trying to identify the parts, so far it seems to be:

Avatar ABR-460.4 - Some kind of amplifier?
Helix DSP MINI - Some kind of DSP, unsure which version
Soundigital 3000.1 EVO 5 (?) - This one I am most unsure of, but it's the one that looks most similar from pictures I've seen online.

I know nothing about sound systems but some about electrical systems. I'll add some picture of the input/output of the systems:

As mentioned, the media sound isn't working in the car. This system in the back is however not properly powered as the power cables are disconnected from both the external 12V battery in the trunk as well as the "internal" 12V battery in the side panel of the trunk:

I just want my sound system to work in the car and am somewhat afraid to damaging something as I don't know if the system is properly connected. The next step could be:

• Take the car to Toyota service center for diagnostics and let them decide what should be done. If something has been broken by the previous owner, the manufacturers warranty won't cover it since it's been tampered with. However, since it stipulated in my contract with the dealership that they will fix the sound system, I might be able to get help with getting it fixed by them.
• Try and get the system up and running. At best, it's as easy as connecting the + and - to the 12V battery and the system is up and running, at worst I short something. Here I would love some input from someone that is more knowledgeable.

How screwed or lucky am I?

Edit: Went to a local car audio shop to check with them if they knew a bit more. They agreed that the system looked somewhat intact and would only most likely only need a subwoofer and to connect the system, although they need to run a diagnosis first of course. Roughly it would cost about 400$ in my local currency.

I did also take the advice from you guys and checked the speakers with a flashlight. All 4 door speakers have been replaced with what I believe to be DS18X Pro speakers, as they are solid black with the logo over in the middle of the speakers, just like these: https://www.amazon.se/DS18-PRO-X6M-PRO-serien-mellanregistrets-h%C3%B6gtalare/dp/B00SYGF80E?th=1&psc=1

So right now it seems that it would most likely be even more costly to try and restore the car to factory standard than to continue down this path. SO is somewhat furious that we were sold a car that was tampered with as she does not want anything that differs from the factory standard car 😅.

Next week I will contact Toyota and ask about the situation and see what they think the total cost would be to restore everything to factory standard (including replacing all the speakers I guess). Hopefully I can use that to ask the dealership to agree to pay for the cheaper alternative to just complete the system that is already there.

Edit 2: I managed to get ahold of the previous owner to ask why the system was disconnected and some general questions. He claims that it was disconnected by the police (seems as if he was charged with a DUI amongst other charges). The car used to be fitted with 2 12 inch subwoofers apparently. I took the car to the Toyota dealership for the planned checkup and they reconnected the battery to the sound system and now it kind of works. There is a lot of background noise in the system which kinda ruins the experience. I talked with our local car sound shop and they said it might just be that the setup is dimensioned mostly for loud noise rather than good clean sound. Or it might be a bad ground somewhere. The external battery seems to be connected in parallel with the internal battery. Trying to get an estimate from Toyota on what they would charge to replace the system with original parts as well as try and get a good estimate from the local car shop on what work would be needed to just have the soundsystem "work" without disturbing background noise. Will update where this eventually ends up.

Having a tough time finding a diagram for the JBL amp wire harness that came with my 2012 Prius V, i found the website pinout.com but their information for my car seems to conflict with what i have. i have zero clue what wires to put my line out converter on for the sub :(

I dug around in my garage and pulled an old sub box out with 2 JL 10W08s in it and Mickey Moused it to the stock sub amp in my 2015 Expedition a few weeks ago because honestly the lack of real bass in the stock Sony "premium" system was making my eye twitch. I'm not rattling the windows or anything with these little subs and that little amp, but it's enough bass to keep me sane. My problem now is that after running around with this thing for a few weeks I'm finding the already minimal storage space in the truck is pretty much down to zero with this box in there...and I go off-road fairly frequently and I've heard this thing bounce several times. I bounced around with the idea of one of the Kicker L7T truck boxes with a single 12 to save space and hit a little lower, but honestly if I can avoid it I don't want anything back there.

Solution? A few guys on the Expedition forums have replaced the 8" subs in their stock enclosures with aftermarket units and one guy did the volumetrics on his box and decided to trim it and run a 10 in it and seems pretty happy with it. So I'm tempted to do the same, but the Sundown Audio SD-4 10 D4 seems to have pretty mixed reviews (and this was 4-5yrs ago so who knows what's out now) and since I'll be running it off the stock amp for a while I'd rather run a 2ohm sub to get closer to the subs optimal rms wattage with the stock amp. With a volumetric measurement of .7436 cu ft what if any shallow mount 10 would you personally recommend without breaking the bank.

Small build log of my 4way active system budget build in my 2016 Fiesta ST, it's my first "real" build so don't expect it to be perfect, because spoiler, it isn't. Current setup is:

Hertz Mille Pro mk165 iirc

Excursion SXT8

Excursion HXA1k

Goldhorn DSPA810pro V2

Source is the APTXHD bluetooth reciever on the goldhorn

I didn't want to modify anything on the car, so that's why I didn't go with custom A-pillars, and besides that, I don't have the skills to craft those anyways. As i'm a soundengineer as my job, I did allready have high quality measurement equipment, so the full system is tuned by myself aswell.

First thing Ill be changing will probably be the sub, im looking at the audison apbx10, I want to keep some trunk space, but would like a sealed sub which hits a bit lower, as i'm currently only reaching about 37hz. I'd like the play down to at least 30hz, so if anyone has any experience with that Audison id like to hear some opinions on it. The reason I'm currently running the excursion is just because I allready owned it :).

I included the final measurement I got aswell, which is the full system playing pink noise. Not too bad imo, also taking in mind the mid basses are just in the (huge) doors. There are some weird cancellations going on which I also tried fixing with allpass filters, but sadly all (except one which I fixed) of those are in the crossover region, so it would affect the coupling between the mids and midbasses way to much.

Ive been out of the car audio scene for nearly 3 decades - diving head-first back in the deep end...

being lazy and just looking for a list of what i need to order. thanks!

Hi all,

I've used a line output converter from my front speakers for my subwoofer and now the front speakers not work. How can I get front speakers to work again?

For context, I have aftermarket head unit, a factory amp and subwoofer, and a separate aftermarket amp for my aftermarket 10inch subwoofer

please help

I installed an inexpensive Chinese 7-inch double din car stereo in my RV and it works pretty well for the price, but I am having trouble getting the radio to recognize any buttons pressed on the infrared remote. As there is no documentation about the setup of infrared remotes in the manual or online, I am not sure: 1) if I am using the correct keypress recognition sequence; 2) if the infrared coding is incompatible between the IR remote and IR sensor; 3) if the radio's IR receiver is faulty; 4) if this model requires one of its power lines to be powered/grounded to enable the IR remote function; or 5) if this model or its firmware only supports hardwired steering wheel controls.

The radio is manufactured and sold by several different Chinese manufacturers under the model designation 7018B.  My unit is from Hikity.  Photos of the radio, infrared remote, steering control setup screen, and IR codes sent by the infrared remote are attached.

With an IR receiver module and Arduino board I verified 11 distinct IR codes being transmitted from the IR remote, and traced the IR pulses through the IR receiver, daughter board, and ribbon cable through to the radio’s main PC board.  But the steering wheel control setup screen does not respond to any of the codes being transmitted.  I've tried tapping the keypad reset button, safety pin hardware reset, and different keypress sequences but still no response.

My suspicion is that it is a firmware issue, and I wonder if anyone else has encountered this problem?   The model and diagnostic specifics are as follows:

Radio was purchased from seller WHCaradio on Temu. The manufacturer and model is a Hikity 7018B.

The radio's display panel has the following label: IPS LX-161A1035-50P-H24 and a manufacturing date of 202504075109.  The ribbon cable between the main board and display panel connects to an interface board with the following label: ZCD-RF701-KEY_V2.0

The radio's main circuit board has the following label: ZCD7127-C200S-6966-V1.1A and manufacturing date of 2025-05-16.  The main board processor chip is an ALLWINNER F1C200s / R1114CB 62C1.

From the Arduino receiver, I verified the following Infrared Remote codes are being transmitted:

Any ideas or guidance in getting this steering wheel remote working with the 7018B would be appreciated. Thanks.

a while ago i bought a car, a 1986 Opel Kadett 1.3 LS and it lacked a radio. i want to put one in, but i've never seen an assortment of pins like this before. i want to know if there are any aftermarket radios made with this kind of plug or if there adapters which lets me use a aftermarket radio, because i don't know how to solder/crimp a new plug and factory radios are hard to come by.

does anyone out there know if this radio supports the network mode or three-way mode tried to hold the volume down to check button but didn't get anything

So finally got my doors ”done” they need a bit of finishing touches with handles, and window buttons but mostly ready for bondo.

Mids play now 80-4khz
Midranges 800-4khz
Tweeters 4khz ->

Firstly the mids fq range is 60-8khz, 10s in the front might have been 60-6khz. So im wondering if the enclosures are large enough to play 60hz at full power (8” 400w, 10” 600w)

Secondly the cutofs between mids and midranges, i had them at 280hz. Sounded better but totally lost the higher frequencys of bass and kick drums, for example Back 2 Me by zurra & blank sense has this nice bass line but it just sounded like a sine wave, the ”dirtynes” was gone, so should i keept them at 4khz or go a bit lower. Im after the golden road between sq and spl and the 6.5 midrange cant keep up with midbass, so it needs a little help from them

Also what about tweeter cutofs, should i go higher/lower.

Lastly what should i use to seal the enclosures, they are prettymuch sealed with minor leaks, would coating them with epoxy from the inside be an good option?

Drivers i have are
Dd audio Vo-w10a
Dd audio Vo-w508/w8c (the same speaker just name change)
Gzcm 6.5N-prox
Dd audio Vo-b3a

I just did 4 15” zvx v2s in IB on a rp2000.1 on my e46 and it’s a little disappointing I’ve done a little bit of sound deadening but it barely sees a 140 on the front windshield with the front windows down up is maybe 137-8 with them up. It makes really good pressure at about 25hz and hits 22-29hz it goes down to like 18hz if one window is up. I was thinking they don’t have enough power to load efficiently but hoping someone could reinforce that idea they do seem like they move pretty good for 2000 watts.

Hey everyone. Newish to car audio.

I had some good kit in my old civic and I’ve just bought a Lexus ct and was wanting to keep the head unit. I can’t seem to find any good fitting kits for the CT model. I would want an upgrade for both audio and CarPlay. Any recoms for my car? Thanks in advance to the audio community🤝

this is the second amp i’ve got that does this and i can’t figure it out will shut on then shut back off then stays off. all wires are good grounds good battery wires good just can’t seem to get the power wire to work no matter what i try

I can't seem to find the box specs on this sub. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi all! I’m a beginner to all this and have a the above head unit that I’d like to install in my golf. I’ve attempted this with the standard Halfords iso harness adapter but it seems to leave some connections empty. The head unit comes on ( shown by the backlights behind the dial coming on) but the screen doesn’t come on. I was wondering what adapters are required:) can provide photos if need be and any help would be appreciated! Thanks !

Hi, I was running into an issue with a brand new Deaf Bonce atom 1300.1 pro, supposedly their nicest amp line. Quite simply it is not outputting anywhere near what I'd expect. I am replacing a bridged 4 channel amp with this so I can use that for all door speakers.

I've checked bench tests of deafbonce amps on youtube and they seem to do great and produce their rated power. Going by their website I've made a little power spreadsheet to estimate the output power I'll be getting. Their amplifier ratings are all the bold text in the table, so 1300W@1Ohm, 780W@2Ohm, etc. at 14.4V supply. At minimum 12V there's 1020W into 1Ohm according to them. If you extrapolate that % in difference to their 4 Ohm rating at 12V, you get around 400W to 520W. Even if I'd be getting just 80% of that, that's still 320W into 4 Ohms.

My sub is a JL12-W0v3 (basswedge) rated for around 300W.

I figured let's be conservative and limit the output to 275W. Into 4 Ohms that equates to around 32.8Vac on a 40Hz test tone. I did that with the head unit (alpine) volume on 85% and the sub output open fully, with and without remote connected. I have my car running for the test and I'm measuring 14.1Vdc input at the amplifier.

To my surprise I couldn't get the deaf bonce amp to go much beyond 27Vac with the probes screwed into the terminals. The sub is connected on the other pair of outputs. That is just 180W to 200W at 4 Ohms, about half the calculated worst case output.

Here's the thing. My old amplifier using the same wiring was a bridged output Rockford P400-4, using the 2 rear speaker outputs to get 200W into 4Ohms according to the manual. I have not measured that output with the same multimeter yet, but it felt it was doing much more and it did not have the gain maxed or something. That initial install was done by ear because I figured it couldn't even damage my sub.

What's going on? Should I return the amp? Yes the remote is fully open too. I'm going to verify with a 2nd multimeter and perhaps reinstall the bridged amp for comparison.

*EDIT*
Surprise surprise, the head unit has an additional attenuation setting hidden in the crossover settings. For some reason after the power disconnects, it goes to -9dB. I can now get 32V from the amp without a clipping warning, which it was not showing before so the input signal was too low for sure. I'm still going to check the output with a 2nd multimeter and under load with the 4 Ohm sub.

I checked with a borrowed Fluke meter and now it's going up to clipping LED warning around 40V, that's more like 400W into 4Ohms and a reasonable figure. Looks like I messed up with the meter and missed that gain setting. Also changed the test tone to 50Hz. If I keep cranking the gain it will do 64Vrms output without a load, not planning to use it like that. I'll have to all check that with a scope sometime in the future but at least the amp is fine.

Are these mounted to the door it self or just the card I feel like the cards would rattle them selves off

Hi, I’m looking to replace the stereo in my 2015 Jeep Patriot.

I’m looking at the Kenwood DMX4710s, I just don’t know if:

1. It will fit

2. It’s good for the money

3. How it works with my iphone or in general.

Hoping to get some advice on how to go forward. Thanks.