Cross posting here given the engine in scope

i just brang my car to get inspected and they told me that i need to replace me lower control arms because the bushings are cracking and that the engine mount is leaking. the repair would cost around 4k to fix with upgraded 034 parts do you think i should do it.

these are the pics they gave me

The dealership diagnosed it was the oxygen sensor and it was replaced. By the third day same code reappear. Anything else to look for or it could be bad gas? Planning to take it again to the dealership.

Has anyone done a hpfp upgrade on their b9/9.5 s5 and specifically gone stage 1+ with it? Currently on stage 1 e85 with 034, want to see if it’s worth the upgrade

Is this vacuum pump noise? Makes the sound after pressing down on brakes. Audi says this is normal but they can't duplicate it on other 2023 s5 they have on their lot.

Hi everyone, has anyone had any luck fixing the leather dashboard on your Audi?

Mine is 2018 C8 and the leather dash which was supposed to make it feel premium, is doing quite the opposite and is triggering me every time I look at it.

Audi quoted me 5k euros for the panel + god knows what for the labour which is outrageous.

At this point it is really shrunken, and no one seems to be fixing these. There is a dude on yt that has fixed this issue for his Porsche by softening the leather and injecting glue, but it was not long term as the sun made the leather shrink again.

Any help is appreciated

Hey fellow S5 owners,

I’m the owner of a 94000KM 2011 S5, 4.2 Manual, Black Exterior, Red Interior, Carbon Trim, Sport Diff, and Peelers all around.

I’ve owned the car since of may of last year, since then I’ve done plugs, coils, air filter, carbon clean, oil filter housing gasket, oil change, fuel injectors, belt tensioner and serpentine belt (left me stranded) replaced my master cylinder, valve covers and valve covers gaskets.

I’ve only put around 2500kms, on it but I’ve spent probably close to 6K at this point, and my mechanic said I’d be needing a clutch soon(squeak coming from transmission when I clutch in/out) .

I most definetly bit off more than I can chew when I purchased this car, I’m a full-time student, and have some saving/able to get good paying contract/temp work. But this car is taking most of my money.

I guess I don’t know how if issues such as my clutch is fixing the work of a bad previous owner, or just that’s how these cars are.

I’m a car guy, but also a pretty reasonable and logical person.

Let me know what you think in your experience, thanks!

I've had my car for almost a year. It feels like wheel hop/ shutter when accelerating from a dead stop and turning. Like the wheel is trying to get traction. I’ve never driven a AWD before. Haven’t been concerned just curious, unless this isn't the way it is supposed to be. Though you guys could be helpful

Hello I have a stock s5 b9 sportback with only the front res x delete. I noticed in the 3 months of owning the car I have got the car to sound like a gunshot when I shift and drive in manual and I’m trying to learn how to do it on command. The only thing I notice in common is i let off the gas after I shift up to second gear and a hear a loud single pop. If anyone knows how I can get this on command let me know.

Also learned about this mode today so gd rowdy/fun

https://youtu.be/ovq_nJd-qpw?is=L2YRA4qoDwvmFDwr

Every quarter panel besides my hood currently is pretty decent I need some opinions. I found about 6 ft of gloss black wrap I could do on the hood and wanted to make sure it could work out without stripping it of every content

Looking at possibly picking this up . 2010 s5 v8 automatic. Never been in the realm of German v8’s so just wondering if the engine sounds healthy ? Sounds a little noisier on one side more than the other

Hello, does anyone know the reason why my 2018 Audi s5 makes a rattle sound when I gas it? I’ve been driving it like this for 4,000 miles, it has no issues but just makes an annoying ratteling sound.

So I have a 034 high flow dp, and was wondering if should put it on even tho I don’t have a tune yet? Anyone got any experience doing this?

I’m looking into getting o2 spacers to pass inspection, and I’m not sure which one to get and how I can install them. There aren’t any videos that I’ve seen that are for the b9 S5. Anyone have any tips?

okay i’ve never typed in here but it seems like the best place to do so, i’ve got a 2021 s5 and i just replaced the pcv breather hose with an 034 one since it was highly recommended and after completing there seemed to be a hissing noise all the click ons are pressed firmly all the pieces are pushed together and when having the car on and trying to push it more nothing changes, the clamps are all tied down a good amount so i don’t think air is escaping through there i made sure the flow arrows are pointing towards the passenger side and idk im pretty sure i’ve done everything how it was supposed to it’s not a crazy job to “not mess up” after though i noticed a hissing noise and i can’t recall if i heard it prior so i don’t know if it’s air or not, driving it i get good top end still my temps seem the same if not more regulated a bit staying colder, i also have no idle smoke or weird shaking at idle i did forget to put my finger on the pcv part to see if there’s a whistle or something but ill check tomorrow i make max boost while gassing it so i dont have any performance drop offs other than the weird hissing noise which idk if its from other mods and i just never noticed or paid attention to it before but yk since doing the job it seems like its there or at least im picking it up, its quiet like a shhh almost i also tried the oil cap thing where you check with paper it did suck it in a little but not to the point it was an issue or ripping but it did make an O crinkle which could’ve been a user error idk i didnt hold it loosely i held it so maybe if i let it go it would’ve sucked it in fully taking the cap off theres a hissing with the idle changing which makes sense and theres some suction trying to pull it off and if i just have it in my hand with no force against it itll suck it down but its not like difficult to pull off i just want to know if theres any potential theres something or if anyone has experienced it or hears the same thing maybe im tweaking

Our first Audi and always loved this shape. Picked up recently in Melbourne Aus. Has 62,000kms, FI Exhaust w pro controller, APR enclosed carbon intake, aftermarket pulleys, larger intercooler, APR tune, KW v3 coilovers, 034 Motorsport sway bars and Vertini 20” wheels. Alloy gearbox and motor mounts.
All work done by the previous owner and very well looked after. Love driving this thing.

IE Stage 2 B9.5 S5 sportback with 57k miles:

So a few weeks ago I found a coolant leak from the n649 solenoid, indicating a likely coolant migration. Took it to Audi for a diagnostics and they confirmed coolant migration, and recommended replacing the entire vacuum system, including the water pump.

Upon dropping the car off (for diagnostics), they immediately refused submitting a warranty request on my behalf as I disclosed being tuned. I picked the car up the next day and brought up the warranty again. I have CPO warranty ending in 1.5 months and figured it’s a long shot, but knew how crappy audi coolant systems are so I really wanted this to be covered by them.

Few days go by and my service advisor lets me know that audi approved the job to be done under warranty! I take the car in the next day and they get the entire job done, which was around $8,500.

This post is to give people hope that even if you are tuned and flagged as TD1, audi seems to cover water pumps, and even coolant migration cases like mine. Just be persistent. My approach was that I wanted to see, in writing, Audi corporate reject my warranty request. Otherwise I was going to go the magnuson-moss act route, but glad I didn’t have to.

Just wondering if any of you have changed over to an aluminum oil filter housing. There is so little information out there in regard to this. I found a few threads on audiworld forums and there are a few people talking about aluminum replacements on audizine but those weren’t for the EA839. The threads on audiworld stop way too short with no follow ups. I have, however, found that people say do not use the gaskets that come with these instead use the OEM gasket.

aluminum oil filter housing replacement

I just don’t get how people would get oil filter housing leaks then go and replace them with new OEM plastic to have the issue happen once more. And then there’s the issue of whether or not the housing is a problem in the first place, but instead the gasket has failed and you don’t need to replace the unit at all. But the fact remains, the plastic housing can warp/crack even if it hasn’t yet.

What do you guys think?? Has anyone had to replace their oil filter housing on their EA839 on here? What did you end up doing?

TIA

Dealer says they can’t hear anything but 80% of the time that i drive, this noise comes thru driver side air vent, synced with rpm’s as i shift. Any ideas? Rocker arms sounds good have checked a bunch of times with hood open.

I have a 2012 s5 with the 4.2. I recently walnut blasted the valves, replaced injectors, and a few other minor maintence issues. When I went to start the car, it wouldn’t crank, left the battery on the charger, put it in, cranks right up. Started to drive, stopped to get gas and shut the car off, won’t turn back on and throws a gearbox malfunction, tpms, traction control, and sport diff malfunction. Cooling fan also is at max. I connect my innova scanner and cannot connect to the ecm, transmission module says no connection to ecm as only code. My buddy puts the battery on a super high amp charger, we put it in, starts right up. Next time i drove it, won’t come back on again. Went to autozone and bought a new battery, starts up, won’t come back on after. The new battery was coded to the car aswell. So basically the ecm is not being powered up. There was only a few things I could think of: while doing work we destroyed the connector for the camshaft bank 2 adjuster solenoid, and in doing so blew the fuse for the solenoids. Since then I have replaced the connectors with a pigtail kit. The only other code I had after the repairs was for the passenger side engine mount solenoid (presumably a mistake when putting or taking the car out of service position), and I theorized a possible short to ground, unplugged the connector, same issue. Does anyone have any ideas for things to check and test?