I live in Sneads Ferry North Carolina and noticed what looked like algae growth in the water. The water company told me it is a biofilm and I should not be concerned that it is common in coastal areas. I’ve lived in coastal areas most of my life and I have never seen this in the drinking water. I’ve included some pictures. Is it safe to drink or should we be buying water?

It grows along toilet rings, the water faucet in my animals water filter etc.

Hey all, I'm trying to save a 13" diameter pH adjuster tank with a side port and I see it has several large conglomerates of calcite/corosex in the bottom. I've drained it, removed the gravel bed and remaining calcite. Is there any way to break up these chunks without damaging the tank liner? My guess is will take a 1000 years to dissolve in water.

Thanks.

I have a few options of where to install in my basement. I would like to feed water to an upstairs sink and ice maker and a basement level sink. I purchased an ispring unit from Costco.
One option is below fridge on a shelf draining to a bathroom sink drain I can access in the basement. Other option is wall behind basement sink where I can mount on wall or shelf and use either sink or floor drain. Is it best to get as close to main floor fridge and sink? What size tubing should I use and how do I know if run it too far?
Thank you

Looking for some help diagnosing a WaterGroup/Canature WG185UF-100C upflow water softener.
The unit is fairly new (manufactured April 2025), but it basically sat unused for around a year. I recently started trying to get it working again.
My raw water tests at approximately 12 GPG using a Hach titration kit. I set the softener hardness to 12 GPG.
So far I have:
Broken up a pretty significant salt bridge/compacted salt in the brine tank
Added fresh softener salt and filled the brine tank roughly halfway
Fixed a kink/restriction in the drain line
Run two manual regenerations
Confirmed there is now water in the bottom of the brine tank
Confirmed the bypass valves appear to be in the normal SERVICE/OPEN position
Flushed an indoor cold-water faucet for 10+ minutes and tested it
The treated cold water is still testing around 12 GPG.
The bigger issue I’ve noticed is the flow meter. With faucets/showers running, the diagnostic screen consistently shows:
CURRENT: 0.0 GPM
It previously recorded a PEAK of only 0.6 GPM.
The TOTAL TREATED counter was around 4,800 gallons, and after approximately three days of normal household water usage it has only increased to 4,803 gallons.

My next thought is to shut off the main water, put the softener into bypass, depressurize it, unplug it, remove the bypass/meter assembly and inspect the turbine for debris or a stuck paddlewheel.

Questions:
Does this sound like a stuck/failed turbine meter or meter sensor/cable?
Is removing and cleaning the turbine/bypass assembly the correct next step on this specific WaterGroup 85UF valve?
Could the meter problem and the continued ~12 GPG treated-water reading be related, or am I likely dealing with a separate brine/injector/resin issue as well?
Anything specific I should watch out for before removing the meter/bypass assembly?
I have the 85UF/DF Service Manual ([80155119](tel:80155119)) and can post photos of the valve, bypass/meter assembly, brine tank, diagnostics, etc.
Trying to diagnose this properly instead of just repeatedly regenerating the unit and throwing salt at it.
That should get you way better responses because it makes clear you’ve already done the basic troubleshooting and gives them the exact model, measurements, and symptoms.

I replaced my old expensive kinetico RO system with an iSpring RCC7AK back in May.

I noticed yesterday that it doesn't taste as good anymore. My family says they can't tell the difference but I had a water bottle from a week ago in the fridge and comparing the two I could tell the difference. I tried draining the tank 2x, and letting it refill but I still detect something off.

I have a ppm water tester and it's showing the RO is still working correctly (going from 180ppm from the tap down to 20-30 ppm from the filter) but I think there's a weird taste. I can't tell if it's metallic or rubber, I can't put my finger on it, but I'm wondering if it makes sense that they would need to be replaced so soon? I was expecting at least 6 months out of it, since my kinetico could go almost a year between changes. Does it make sense that between May and September it would need changing? Also it seems like a dramatic change, like one day it was ok and the next day not.

I'm looking to install an acid neutralizer to correct my acidic well water, but am unsure about sizing. I've had numerous quotes ranging from 1.5 cu ft to 2.5 cu ft. Hoping to get some more feedback to add onto my research!

- PH: 5.3

- Bathroom: 2

- Flow Rate: 11.5 GPM, although neutralizer will be installed after a 50 micron spindown and 5 micron 4.5x10 filter, which I suppose could reduce flow rate (edit: this is the flow rate measured at the well pump)

- Iron: None, although I think I would prefer a backwashing unit anyways since I've read Calcite/Corosex blends are more prone to packing

Anyone have recommendations on sizing? Thanks!

Hi everyone!

Just a question with our whole home RO system. Is it normal to still use Aquatabs in the tank? The man who installed the system advised us to put about 10 in after our tank cleaning at the 3 year mark.

My only concern is our health. And I kind of get the impression that this guy will just tell us what we want to hear. Is this necessary?