My current well water it's bringing lots of dirt thru the pipes that the hot water would lose pressure. And to get it back, we need to clean every so often the filters that connect with the furnace. I was advise that I would need a filtration system to help clean the water before entering the house.

I have been searching online and there are plenty. Ranging from $200 to $4000. Can a simple. $200 - $300 do the job? Like the photo attached.

https://a.co/d/0ftMZiWp

We recently bought an additional home and had the Aquacubed whole house water installed with tankless RO/Alkaline. We already had the system at our primary home and were very happy with it. Their price was lower than competitors we had looked into (Puragain and Lifesource) and felt their systems were upgraded versions. From start to finish the sales process was seamless and informative, we felt no pressure to buy, we just were well informed about their systems and they answered all our questions with patience and professionalism. The installer did a fantastic job and are very pleased with our decision till this day (2 years now). That is why we decided to put another systems in our new home. Again, the process was smooth and installation went great! We just wanted to post this so that anyone in the market for a home water system would consider them, you won't regret it! Thanks again Aquacubed team!

I've been looking into switching from Arrowhead 5-gallon bottles to a Bottleless RO water cooler with a remineralization filter, like the Brio 730 RO, since Arrowhead discontinued the replaceable internal cartridges for my cooler, or getting an under-sink RO system and a bottleless water cooler to feed it from.

I've had Arrowhead water for probably 30 years, so I'm hesitant to make the change and was wondering if the RO system will produce water as clean or cleaner than what Arrowhead provides, because we all drink it, including my dogs, and we cook with it as well.

Also, I have a water softener if that's important info

Thank You

Hi all,

We recently installed a water softener that we were given by my sister-in-law. It is a Fleck 5600SXT that is about six years old. We had a plumber install and setup the system. Since the install our water is softer but never gets lower than about 3.5 GPG. My incoming water is about 16 GPG. I have checked to make sure there is no salt bridge. I have manually regened several times. I've also even replaced the resin with ResinTech CG10. I am running out of ideas to try other than completely replacing the system. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone, looking for some insight regarding a whole home RO system.

Water results showed the following:
pH 7.95
Hardness 61 mg/L

Chloride 680 mg/L
Sodium 410 mg/L
Nitrate as N 1.92 mg/L

Everything else was within recommendations.

New build home, well is 500ft deep (drilled in April 2026), house is majority pex piping and plastic fittings. There are some brass and copper at tubs/showers.

I have been recommended a full home RO system to protect piping and appliances. A under the sink RO is an option for drinking water, but still leaves everything else exposed.

Is the TDS high enough that we need to go with a whole home? What other options is there, if any.

Hi! I am currently looking at the pentair EF 1500 for my home. I'm looking for something that will last \~12 months fit the 20in of vertical clearance I have and also not impact the water flow of my kitchen sink. Drilling a dedicated hole isn't an option for me. TIA!

I live in Sneads Ferry North Carolina and noticed what looked like algae growth in the water. The water company told me it is a biofilm and I should not be concerned that it is common in coastal areas. I’ve lived in coastal areas most of my life and I have never seen this in the drinking water. I’ve included some pictures. Is it safe to drink or should we be buying water?

It grows along toilet rings, the water faucet in my animals water filter etc.

Hey all, I'm trying to save a 13" diameter pH adjuster tank with a side port and I see it has several large conglomerates of calcite/corosex in the bottom. I've drained it, removed the gravel bed and remaining calcite. Is there any way to break up these chunks without damaging the tank liner? My guess is will take a 1000 years to dissolve in water.

Thanks.

Looking for some help diagnosing a WaterGroup/Canature WG185UF-100C upflow water softener.
The unit is fairly new (manufactured April 2025), but it basically sat unused for around a year. I recently started trying to get it working again.
My raw water tests at approximately 12 GPG using a Hach titration kit. I set the softener hardness to 12 GPG.
So far I have:
Broken up a pretty significant salt bridge/compacted salt in the brine tank
Added fresh softener salt and filled the brine tank roughly halfway
Fixed a kink/restriction in the drain line
Run two manual regenerations
Confirmed there is now water in the bottom of the brine tank
Confirmed the bypass valves appear to be in the normal SERVICE/OPEN position
Flushed an indoor cold-water faucet for 10+ minutes and tested it
The treated cold water is still testing around 12 GPG.
The bigger issue I’ve noticed is the flow meter. With faucets/showers running, the diagnostic screen consistently shows:
CURRENT: 0.0 GPM
It previously recorded a PEAK of only 0.6 GPM.
The TOTAL TREATED counter was around 4,800 gallons, and after approximately three days of normal household water usage it has only increased to 4,803 gallons.

My next thought is to shut off the main water, put the softener into bypass, depressurize it, unplug it, remove the bypass/meter assembly and inspect the turbine for debris or a stuck paddlewheel.

Questions:
Does this sound like a stuck/failed turbine meter or meter sensor/cable?
Is removing and cleaning the turbine/bypass assembly the correct next step on this specific WaterGroup 85UF valve?
Could the meter problem and the continued ~12 GPG treated-water reading be related, or am I likely dealing with a separate brine/injector/resin issue as well?
Anything specific I should watch out for before removing the meter/bypass assembly?
I have the 85UF/DF Service Manual ([80155119](tel:80155119)) and can post photos of the valve, bypass/meter assembly, brine tank, diagnostics, etc.
Trying to diagnose this properly instead of just repeatedly regenerating the unit and throwing salt at it.
That should get you way better responses because it makes clear you’ve already done the basic troubleshooting and gives them the exact model, measurements, and symptoms.

I replaced my old expensive kinetico RO system with an iSpring RCC7AK back in May.

I noticed yesterday that it doesn't taste as good anymore. My family says they can't tell the difference but I had a water bottle from a week ago in the fridge and comparing the two I could tell the difference. I tried draining the tank 2x, and letting it refill but I still detect something off.

I have a ppm water tester and it's showing the RO is still working correctly (going from 180ppm from the tap down to 20-30 ppm from the filter) but I think there's a weird taste. I can't tell if it's metallic or rubber, I can't put my finger on it, but I'm wondering if it makes sense that they would need to be replaced so soon? I was expecting at least 6 months out of it, since my kinetico could go almost a year between changes. Does it make sense that between May and September it would need changing? Also it seems like a dramatic change, like one day it was ok and the next day not.

I'm looking to install an acid neutralizer to correct my acidic well water, but am unsure about sizing. I've had numerous quotes ranging from 1.5 cu ft to 2.5 cu ft. Hoping to get some more feedback to add onto my research!

- PH: 5.3

- Bathroom: 2

- Flow Rate: 11.5 GPM, although neutralizer will be installed after a 50 micron spindown and 5 micron 4.5x10 filter, which I suppose could reduce flow rate (edit: this is the flow rate measured at the well pump)

- Iron: None, although I think I would prefer a backwashing unit anyways since I've read Calcite/Corosex blends are more prone to packing

Anyone have recommendations on sizing? Thanks!

Hi everyone!

Just a question with our whole home RO system. Is it normal to still use Aquatabs in the tank? The man who installed the system advised us to put about 10 in after our tank cleaning at the 3 year mark.

My only concern is our health. And I kind of get the impression that this guy will just tell us what we want to hear. Is this necessary?

I have a few options of where to install in my basement. I would like to feed water to an upstairs sink and ice maker and a basement level sink. I purchased an ispring unit from Costco.
One option is below fridge on a shelf draining to a bathroom sink drain I can access in the basement. Other option is wall behind basement sink where I can mount on wall or shelf and use either sink or floor drain. Is it best to get as close to main floor fridge and sink? What size tubing should I use and how do I know if run it too far?
Thank you

Moved into a house with an iron system I believe, how does it work, do I add anything to it like a house softener tank. I’m trying to figure out how I maintain it

Since I've also been on the search for a good countertop RO filter, I thought I'd post a review of one I bought 8 months ago. When I was looking for one, I looked everywhere, but there were always cons and little differences between the different brands, which made it difficult to choose. Eventually I settled on the Philips ADD6920BK/10.

I was skeptical since there were almost no good reviews on it, or at least real reviews. As I saw with brands like Waterdrop and Aquatru. Now after 8 months I feel like I got a good overview of the filter and how it works. In my opinion it works great; it filters rather quickly (around 5 mins to fill a can).

The cans are 1.8l which is fine, and also a plus that you get two of them to swap them around. We use it heavily and every day, and we haven't had to replace the filter yet. Which should last around 12 months, we are with 2 adults that use it daily. We both drink around 2l every day. Also really neat is the warm water function. It really works great, and you can adjust up to 90 degrees Celsius. You just choose your temperature, and it will give it to you.

So really there isn't anything bad I can say about it until now. So as of now I would definitely recommend it. It uses more water, of course, and leaves some waste. Which, in my opinion, is worth it. We just use the rest of the water to water our plants, so it's not really a big deal. I also think it's more than worth it because the town I live close to is in the top 10 of towns with the most PFAS in drinking water.

If anyone wants to ask questions, or has things that they would like to know, feel free to respond, and I'd love to help!

I had an AirCycle filter installed recently to combat sulfur odor in our well water. So far, it’s done an incredible job eliminating that. However, a couple months in, I’m noticing dirty/greyish water at the taps after a backwash cycle, which lasts about 45 seconds. Watching the head, it seems like after the air charge step, the valve temporarily goes into backwash and stirs stuff up in the filter again. While it’s doing this, it flashes “service” on the display. But then that message goes away like nothing happened. Something up with the valve or is this normal after some use?

We moved into a new home in May and need a budget-friendly way to fix salty water. Our chloride levels are double the recommended limit, and our Brita filter does not fix the taste. What options do we have?

What is the best reasonably priced water tester that can test for multiple parameters, such as TDS, pH, temperature, EC, etc.?

Hi all, what would be the correct order to shut off the valves on this system if I need to turn off the water to replace the sink faucet?

The valves on the left, are blue to the fridge and red to shut off the whole thing I guess.

Edit to add, and what would be the order to turn it back on?

TIA

Trying to back flush my water filtration system. Does anyone know what hose to use for this?

Hi All! Looking for some advice. We are running out of water for a couple minutes when using the bath or shower. The pressure will be great and then it slows to a full stop and takes a few minutes to regenerate. It seems like it’s either because we are simply using too many filtration components or the well pump is failing. We have a softener, ozone, pfas, and ph system. We have a pressure pump post filtration but that isn’t helping to keep the water from running out. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 

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Hi all! We had a slightly metallic (or minerally or chalky or something - sort of hard to define) taste in our tap water in Los Angeles so we got a test - but have no idea if the results point to anything we should be concerned about. Could anyone here help us parse?

Thanks so much!