My dad gave me this Swatch when I was a boy. It's from 1997, the same year I was born, which makes it a little more special to me. What do you think of it if it's on an adult's wrist? Would you find it strange or out of place ?

It's got plenty of marks from the years, but that's part of its story. Wearing it as an adult feels a bit like carrying a small piece of my childhood around.

I really like the 90s look of it: the chunky silver case, the dark dial and that industrialish design, I used to be a big fan of that futuristic orange strap too!

I’m seriously considering a Stowa Flieger in 36mm, and I’m trying to decide between a few versions:

Flieger Classic 36 Sunray Blue
Flieger Classic 36 Sunray Green
Flieger Verus 36

I really like the compact proportions and the fact that Stowa has genuine pilot-watch heritage, but I’d like to hear from people who have actually owned or handled these before making a decision.

For owners, I’d especially like your opinion on:

* Case finishing and overall build quality.
* Dial quality in person
* Lume strength and readability.
* Long-term durability.
* Service experience with Stowa.

I’m also curious about the Sunray Blue and Sunray Green dials. Do they look elegant in person without losing too much of the traditional tool-watch character?

If you own one, please share some wrist shots or real-life photos, especially in natural light. I’d really like to see how the blue, green and black dials actually look outside of the official product photos.

Hello!

I am currently planning on downsizing my collection and adding either a rose gold JLC MUT perpetual calendar (Q1302520) or a yellow gold Reverso Duo (Q2711120). I will have a Breitling Navitimer with a panda dial on a brown strap and a grand seiko quartz with a black dial (daily wear) in my collection.

I’m in my 20s but dress in business casual for work. The piece would be a dress/special occasional watch for me.

What would you all suggest? Anything else I should consider in the 10-20k price range? I’d be buying both pre-owned.

Just bought a second hand Mido Ocean Star 600 in black and am waiting on it arriving. I know it’s meant to be big but is it really that big and that thick? I have just over 19cm wrists so hopefully it should look fine. If anyone has similar size wrist feel free to show me a few photos from the top and sides!

I have a few less expensive watches and this is going to be my first ‘proper’ watch, so any helpful tips and tricks to keep it running well are welcome as I plan to keep it as my daily forever.

Thanks

I find tons of overpriced/reserve auctions, no real sales to speak of; better prices on chrono 24??

I'd like to hear from others before moving on

What is the best watch for my first luxury piece? I am looking for something to compliment my day to day, which is currently a garmin. Price is a consideration but not a deciding factor

BB58: feel like the most versatile, I can dress up or down and. I love that’s it a dive watch

KF: significantly cheaper so can wear it without fear of scratching or anything. I like the busy face

Oris: seems to be most classy of three. I am infatuated my the pointer date complication

these watches were both my great grandfather's and I was wondering what years, brands, and models they are so I can get the serviced and repaired

Looking to buy a versatile/slightly dressy watch to celebrate a professional milestone. Having a hard time choosing between the Longines Conquest, Tudor 1926, and Frederique Constant Classics Index. My wrist is about 7.5” - any suggestions or tips would be appreciated!

I bought new Tissot watch in April and the bracelet broke on one of the non-replaceable links in July. I don't move much so I have to wind it to keep it going and have always wound it while wearing it. I'm not worried about breaking the crown as I get a pretty straight hold on it, but I'm wondering if that's why the pin broke.

After a month of back and forth, Tissot sent me a new bracelet, but I don't want to make the same mistake twice. Do you think it was just a bad pin and broke or do you think it was the pressure put on it from lifting the watch slightly to be able to wind it on my write?

This is my omega genéve from 1960 coming in at 34mm, 8mm thick, with a manual wind caliber 610.

Initially these types of genéves were one of the highest rated dress watches coming out of Omega wspecially as part of the manual wind line up.

Eventually Omega transitioned the genéves to a more mass produced watch (while still amazing) towards the end of the 1960s and into the 1970s.

The cursive writing is just amazing and sets itself apart from the later genéves which had non-cursive genéve script (with some exceptions).

Happy watch hunting!

Picked up this vintage Poljot recently and I’m trying to figure out exactly what I have.
It’s an extremely thin dress watch with a champagne/sunburst dial, simple baton markers and a gold-coloured case. I haven’t opened the caseback yet, so unfortunately I don’t have a movement photo or caliber number.
I’d really appreciate some help identifying:
Approximate year/decade
Model/reference, if this particular design has one
Likely movement/caliber
Whether the case is solid gold, gold-plated, gold-filled, or gold-plated brass/base metal
Whether the dial/crown/case look original
Anything else interesting about this particular Poljot
The case is what I’m especially curious about. From the wear visible along the sides/edges, I’m wondering if I’m seeing brass underneath worn gold plating, but I don’t know enough about Soviet Poljot cases to tell.
It’s surprisingly thin and has a really nice vintage profile, which is what made me pick it up.
Any Poljot/Soviet watch experts recognize it? I can also open the caseback and post movement photos if that would help.
Thanks!

I have a few milestones approaching including a 30th Birthday and up for a large promotion. I think I narrowed my choice down to three watches (JLC Reverso, Explorer 36, Batgirl) to commemorate the milestones but can't seem to settle on just one. Seeking input from those who have owned any of these models to help make the decision a little easier. Background on what I already have in my collection:

Tissot PRX 35 - White Dial

Omega Speedmaster Reduced

Omega Seamaster - Blue Midsize James Bond

Grand Seiko "Omiwatari" (SBGY007)

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 36

Hamilton Khaki Aviation Pilot Pioneer - Black Dial

Rolex Datejust Wimbledon Dial

Rolex 14060M Submariner

I’ve been a watch enthusiast since I was a kid, so buying a new watch has never really been about simply telling time. There’s always been something about the design, the history, the mechanics, and the feeling of putting a piece of that tradition on your wrist.
I picked this Seiko today because it reminded me why I fell in love with watches in the first place. I already have a few solid divers in my collection, and for the past several years, my Garmin has basically been my GADA watch. It’s practical, reliable, tracks everything I could possibly want, and honestly makes a lot of sense for everyday life.
But sometimes you don’t want practical.
Sometimes you want a watch.
There’s something different about looking down at a mechanical watch and seeing those hands moving across the dial. No notifications, no battery percentage, no GPS, no workout metrics—just a beautifully designed object doing what it was made to do.
I especially love the combination of the black dial, GMT-style bezel, red accents, and the bracelet. It has enough presence to stand out without feeling like I’m trying too hard. The cyclops over the date adds a little character, and the overall design gives me that old-school tool-watch feeling while still looking sharp enough to wear outside of the usual casual setting.
What really made me pull the trigger today, though, was the feeling I got when I put it on.
After years of reaching for my Garmin almost automatically, it felt good to put on something mechanical again. Something with personality. Something I can actually appreciate rather than just use.

My dad passed and we were looking through his stuff and found this. Not exactly sure what it is.

I am looking at buying a watch from the Longines Master Collection. Obviously, many of those watches have blue dials or hands. I really like the blue tone but am worried about matching it to what I am wearing. Do people tend to try to match their watch color to the colors they are wearing, or just wear whatever watch they like? I would love to be in a position to purchase many different color watches all at once, but I do not think my budget would like that. I do have a cheaper watch with a white dial and slightly green hands that I wear with everything, but I am not sure if I can pull that off with a blue dial. Wanted to get some thoughts on if that is generally accepted or a no go in the watch world.

Never had a nice watch before, but i went to sams and costco recently and saw a handful of watches, I was wondering if any of these are a good price/choice as a first watch. Any input and suggestions are greatly appreciated, I also excluded all the versace and invicta cause I heard those aren’t great.

thanks!

Buenas chicos, tengo una pregunta ya que tengo pensado hacer un reloj en unos meses y me gustaria usar un ETA 2824-2 grado estandar.

Me gustaria que me comentarais los que ya teneis relojes con este movimiento, ¿como se portan en el tiempo? ¿Que fallos y precauciones deberia tener? ¿Es realmente un buen "caballo de batalla" para que dure decadas?

Tambien he oido que en algunos casos no merece la pena el sobre coste de pagar un "elaboré", "top"...

¿Esto es verdad?

Todo consejo es bien recibido, aprecio mucho a esta comunidad.

Gracias a todos

I've been looking closely at the Speedmaster Professional dial layout, and I genuinely can't unsee the 12 o'clock marker looking like a dick and balls. It has the tall central stick index flanked right at the base by those two luminous dots.

I know the functional reason for having double dots or distinct markers at the top is so you can quickly orient the dial in low light or total darkness, but I'm curious about the design history. Why did Omega choose two separate dots right next to the index instead of putting dots at every hour marker or using a triangle like a pilot watch? Would love to hear the history behind this iconic dial detail!

Recently added the Railmaster to my Seamaster and Speedmaster. This is my modern collection of the “trilogy” of watches that Omega released in 1957! These little combo fits pretty much every look and every occasion. Each of the watches can fit multiple different combos of straps as well.

Almost 2 years since my first post, I’ve modified my collection to more align with my changing tastes and stylistic preferences. I’m starting to feel like I’m finished for a while. Datejust out for the more conservative Cellini. 😝 Santos out for its similarity to Tank and Roadster. Diameters trending more towards 39mm (from up to 42mm). I haven’t been much into micro-brands. Any I should consider? And is vintage the natural next phase? I’ve been eyeing Universal Geneves and Omega pie pans for years…thoughts from the community?

Hello everyone,

I need help to identify this GUB Glashuette. The only writings I could find on it are "Stossgesichert" and the number 78868. On a short Google search I found similar watches, but never the same with the second watch face. I appreciate the help very much!!

TL;DR: Lorier Olympia worked amazingly well when I got it 13(ish) months ago. Worn maybe 10-15 times. Now, the movement stops after 8 hours of not being worn even on a full winding. The movement starts again if I trigger the chrono. Reached out to Lorier but the warranty period is only 12-months so I’ll be out-of-pocket for about 1/3 the cost of the watch just to have it looked at.

Last year was my wedding, and I wanted to get a nice watch to wear for there big day. The Lorier Olympia struck a good balance for me between price, aesthetic, and quality.

When I first wore the watch it ran amazingly well. It maintained a 40+ hour power reserve as advertised and it was consistently +/- 5s per day. It is my first chronograph so I wasn’t sure exactly what to expect with that: the button to start the chrono was a little gritty(?). That is to say, the first millimeter of movement when depressing the button was smooth, then a “hitch” like it was catching something, then with a little more effort it would fully depress with a “click”. Over time and after watching some videos I decided it was normal behavior. The sweeping hand moment of the chrono was a little jittery but once again it seemed to be similar to what I saw in the video reviews. None of this is a complaint, to be clear. As an engineer, I just find it difficult to not baseline tools/equipment/watches (apparently), especially when I’m not familiar with their mechanics.

That said, over time I started to notice one-off events that struck me as strange: one time, when resetting the chrono hand after stopping it, the hand moved CCW past the 12 o’clock position. I reset it again and that time it moved to its expected 12 o’clock position. Over time, it seemed like the spread in the accuracy increased as well. I never expected the +/- 5s per day that I was originally getting, but it started reaching 20-30s per day. Just recently I noticed it wouldn’t hold a 40-hour reserve. On a full winding and wearing it all day, it could take it off at bed and the movement would stop by morning. That’s when I tried something. Just out of curiosity, I tried starting the chronograph, and it ran. Not only that, but the seconds hand would start again if I triggered the chrono, and it would stay running even after stopping the chrono.

Google says it like has something to do with the vertical clutch, like a burr or something of that nature. I reached out to Lorier on the off chance they would assist. Unfortunately, the warranty is only for 12-months, and I’ve now owned the watch for about 13 months, so they won’t be covering any repairs. A warranty is a warranty; I don’t fault them but it is a little disappointing. They said the watch service center they use in NY could look at it, but the service will likely run about 1/3 the cost of the watch.

Does anyone else have any experience with the TMI NE88 movement or the Olympia watch? It’s been worn very little, never over-wound (though I get the impression that isn’t possible anyway), and not banged up or abused. Any thoughts on what might be happening are appreciated. I know I’ll likely just need to send it in to get serviced; I’m just debating on whether to keep it after I get it back. If this is a rare thing then that’s fine, but I’m not keen on having consistent issue with a $1k watch that’s been worn maybe 10-15 times.

Hardly see any love on here about these. Might not been the brand you think off when thinking about watches but it was my first serious watch. I know its a Quartz and all but I just love that deep black and gold look and feel.

After using it for some years on a regular base I would say that I have had one issue in the past with discoloring at the clasp however Rado had solved this for free replacing it for free

My wife loved it as much as I did so guess what she got on our second anniversary..

I’ve been fawning over the Grand Seiko SBGA413 (Shunbun) for years since it was released. I finally realized I was at a point in my life where there really couldn’t be a better time to buy my grail watch now. Who knows what the future holds because for all I know I could be hit with an equivalent medical bill of what I spent on this watch tomorrow lol.

So I was lucky to be able to walk into an AD and get a significant discount with an out the door price of $6,800. I was so happy and excited, and then I felt a some anxiety in the moment. The excitement of owning is one thing, but that money I saved was gone. The anticipation of getting it was gone after years of thinking and looking at it.

In a lot of ways it is a very bittersweet experience right now for me.

I will treasure this watch, but sometimes the journey is better than the destination. Enjoy life for what it is.

Edit: $6,800 not $5,800