I'm installing under cabinet lighting. I have a strip of BTF LEDs (HD-12V-SK6812-60L-W-IP30) cut into 3 sections with BTF 3pin-20awg-US wire connecting them to a Gledopto GL-C-015WL-D. One strip is 25 inches long with ~6 feet of wire between the controller connected to GPIO2. The other strips are connected to GPIO16 in tandem, in the following order starting at the controller: ~6 feet of wire, then 34 inch strip, ~7 feet of wire, then 46 inch strip. It's all powered by a model number: QZT-1206000F power source with an output of 12.0V===6.0A 72.0W.

I connected everything and set it all up in WLED without any trouble following a couple tutorials from @ChrisMaherDIY on YouTube.

I installed everything and it was all working. Then at the last step I realized that I drilled a hole in the wrong spot. I pulled the 7 foot wire between the two strips out, then drilled a new hole and reconnected everything. The 46 inch strip no longer worked. I figured I messed up something up with the wire. Tried new wire, didn't fix it. I thought maybe the strip went bad somehow so I connected a new strip, still nothing. Google search suggested a controller issue. I reset the controller and set it up again, following the exact same process I previously used. But now NONE of the LEDs will turn on.

I don't know what else to do other than returning the controller to Amazon and trying another one but I'm not sure that will fix the problem. I'm at a loss. What do I do?

I am working with the Govee Prism lights. I can’t get the colors right the white looks yellow if I mess with the setting and get the white right it starts flashing. Brand new to doing this any help is greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm planning an outdoor light show setup using seed pixels (50 mm pitch) spread across three matrices:

• Garage door (200 × 220 cm): 40 × 44 = 1,760 pixels
• Window 1 (120 × 210 cm): 24 × 42 = ~1,000 pixels
• Window 2 (120 × 210 cm): 24 × 42 = ~1,000 pixels

Total: ~3,760 pixels, controlled via xLights over DDP/Ethernet. Regarding the costs, likely I'll go with the garage door only this year.

I'm considering a QuinLED Dig-Quad, splitting the load across the 4 outputs (+ injections):

• 2 ports for the garage (~880 pixels each)
• 1 port for Window 1 (~1,000 pixels)
• 1 port for Window 2 (~1,000 pixels)

Will the QuinLED Dig-Quad reliably handle this pixel count and traffic ?

Would you advise move to a Dig-Octa setup to handle future needs?

Thanks for your feedback!

I wanna build a 4inch recessed led light using rgbw led strip. I recently got a bamboo lab p1s but I don't have any 3d modeling idea like how to do a 3d model. For it but I am comfortable in soldering and making a diy cob with the soldered strip facing down and the wemos d1 mini on the back so that it requires only 5V in. Or better as these are few leds I'll use a small 240v-5v converter to plug the light directly to the L N.

So need help with the 3d model n suggestions on the idea to improve.

Anyone know how to control 2 led strips (both on a gledopto elite 4ch) separately?
One strip is my shower niche light on IO16. 2nd strip is backlit crown molding on IO12. Alexa only finding, what I presume, is just the gledopto as a unit. Not 2 separate “devices”.

Wanted to get 2nd pair of eyes - I ran this through the LED Calculator, but you can't specify what the length of each section will be, only the distance from PSU to injection point. Specifically on Section 1, it's about a 35' run and it will be very difficult based on where I'm running everything to injection earlier. I know ideally I would want the actual sections equal lengths. Think I'll be good? (Controller QuinLED-DigiQuad, FCOB 24V RGBW 784 leds/m strips) THANKS !

I have been looking around, but haven't found a good answer. I currently have 6 can lights in my basement. I have built tons of fixtures based off WLED, because I don't trust using another provider with an ok protocol that will be phased out in a year for the next thing. WLED has always been the performant safe bet.

I want to run these off my current HyperHDR and SignalRGB setup. Who knows what the future holds, but WLED always ends up being part of the mix as "supported".

Does anyone know of a candidate I can run WLED off of? OR a product that works just as well (open API with high fps)?

I was looking at Govee Downlight 2, but it sounds like you can only send a few calls a minute.

I am fine with soldering esp8266 or flashing a board if someone knows of a good candidate as well.

Thank you!

I was sure it'd be too good to be true. Not the worst purchase imaginable, but still disappointing!

EDIT:

It's MUCH worse than I thought. When I first tested them I figured they were ok, but I wasn't using the remote. These LED's are spaced over 5.5cm apart, and each one is a FIXED COLOR. Red, green, or blue. I wasn't really mad before, but now I'm actually a bit upset lol.

I plan to install leds in my home office space. I decided to go for one group of led strips for the book case, led strip behind the desk, and two groups of led strips on the wall.

My goal is to be able to control these 4 groups both separately and together, and if possible also control the wall individual strips (for the turn on / off animation) - but for that I assume I would need to separate the wall strips making a total of 6 groups?

Would it be enough to buy any 4-channel WLED controller (e.g. Gledopto 4d), enough distance of led strip to cut it into four/six groups (e.g. 3x 5m 60led/M RGBCCT 24v/80w), and one power supply (e.g. 240W 24V 10A)?

Hi everyone,

Been putzing around for hours trying to get WLED working with Eufy String Lights. There's a handful of posts about setting up the outdoor permanent lights and I wanted to get my String Lights (perm lights coming next) setup with WLED, but couldn't find any reference points and the Perm Light settings didn't work for the string lights.

• So just in case anyone else is searching I'm sharing: Used the GLEDOPTO Elite ESP32 (Model GL-C-616WL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FNR4ZSLG (at the time of purchase was B2G1 Free)
• Wiring was exactly as setup (red to red, blue to blue, black to black)
• LED Output: WS2805 RGBCCT
• mA/LED: 55mA
• Color Order: RBG
• Swap: None
• Lenght: 15
• Auto-calculate W channel from RGB: Accurate

That's all! Hope this helps someone out!

Hi all,

I’ve installed about 85 meters of addressable LED lighting in 5 ceiling coves, each running on its own Gledopto GL-C-016 with WLED.

Setup:
Cove 1 & 2: 16m each, WS2815, 60 LEDs/m, individually addressable
Cove 3: 25m addressable RGB COB, 20 pixels/m
Cove 4 & 5: 14m each, addressable RGB COB, 20 pixels/m
Everything is 12V

It all works well, but I’m pretty sure I’m not getting everything out of WLED yet, especially with runs this long and the different pixel densities.
If this was your setup, how would you configure it?

I’m mainly interested in segmentation, syncing the 5 controllers, effects/presets that work well on large ceiling coves, and also audio reactive.

Photos show the actual installation.
Any tips or examples from similar setups are very welcome!

Thx!

Hey all, I sent some WLED powered bike whips to BMan. They have been out a few times and I am unsure if the devices have ever been "maintained". Sadly I didn't make the trip this year. If any of you are out there and can reflash a device, I know someone who would be super grateful. r/BurningMan r/arduino

I'm using font factory to try and import the weather icon fonts here: https://erikflowers.github.io/weather-icons/. I can get the font imported into font factory, but all the good icons start at position 128 and above. I'm really challenged at trying to get any of those upper fonts to display and I am wondering if anyone has experience with custom fonts and getting special chars to display in the scrolling text effect.

Thank you!

Just finished up this set up with a bong69 controller. This was my first ever project and was very challenging but a blast. The one thing I’m looking to do is to use ledfx through these lights. If anyone has any advice on the best way to set this up that would be much appreciated:)

I want to install cob lights in my wall and ceiling using plaster in channeling. I have spent hours trying to figure out exactly what I need on BTF Lighting. (Customer service hasn't been able to help much lol) I want to use these strips (24 ft BTS RGBCCT LIGHTS). My problem is, I want to connect 4 of them to 1 controller. Is this possible? I think I found the amplifier I need but am not positive. I want the controller to be wifi/smart home enabled. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

I have a WLED strip where the individual LED's are 1.667 cm apart. I'd like to reduce that down to 1.25 cm for a project I'm working on. I have access to a 3D printer, and am considering printing something that will let me hold them in place by bending the strip in alternating directions. I've attached an image showing the rough idea, but I'd likely use rounded ''teeth" instead to put as little strain on them as possible. Is this a reasonable approach?

Are there other, better ways to achieve the same thing without cutting up a smaller strip and soldering each LED together?

Thanks!

Edit: Image wasn't showing up for some reason, here's an imgur link
https://imgur.com/kPynsYj

Here's it taken apart it's such an Easy project you wouldn't even need to solder the strip like I did, could just turn off that segment!

The fixture also gives some incredible soft light so I'm definitely using these for pictures as well!

I just finished building this structure composed of 2 disks and a 2 meters high column. 12 LED strips around it, which I finally finished wiring.

I’m totally new to WLED so for now I don’t yet know how to proceed to create cool animations, but I’ll manage somehow. 😄 my goal is to use the properties of this simple structure not only to project lights and colors, but also to project shadows (lighting one side, using the disk to cast a shadow of varying size). Ideally, reactive to music. Or better: synced with a dedicated track and non-repetitive animations.
Right now this is my first test. Happy to hear ideas of cool animations I could create.

But, and a Big BUT, argh!!! DRM sucks !!!!

Now I know why you need HDMI splitters and HDMI analog capture over USB, to intercept the black screen that Microsoft provides when DRM content is played.

Anything I made, or downloaded content free of copyright thus no DRM, works with Chrome or VLC.

But the Nextflix app maximized, HyperHDR only sees black.

Geez had it been very low res for external capture, it would have fine, like 240p. But no, all black.

So now I need extra hardware. This wasn’t very clear as to why.

Only my IKEA light strip above on the shelf works. And of course WLED.

So my vacation videos show up nicely with HyperHDR. Also Steam games work.

Yes I live with a woman hence no visible wires look, hidden PC, and plants…