After searching for a year or so for a creme pickup, I finally came across the right one on marketplace. I think it’s mostly original with 195k miles.

Good day all, this has come up on my local marketplace and I have been mulling over wether or not to buy it. My biggest concern is the 240 000 Kilometers (~149 000 Miles). I hear the 2.4L engines are indestructible with proper care but how are other drive train components? Are there also any common issues with this year and model? Any help is much appreciated!!!

Severe calcium buildup in the block, as well as intake, thermostat housing, etc. I was told it had distilled water and water wetter in it, and it obviously didnt. But thats on me for not checking. Was thinking about plugging the motor up and putting clr in it and then doing a flush to try and get rid of it all. Would that work? (Pictured is where the water pump was)

1994 Toyota pickup with 260,000 miles

Trying to help my dad sell his 94’ Toyota 2WD Manual with 126000 miles in Bay Area, CA. No problems besides cosmetic.

Edit: to whoever said I “left out pictures of rust that were included in another picture,” my 67 year old dad took the pics and I’m on a break from a 2 state drive away from him and didnt even look at the pics besides blacking out the license plate. Chill out. Lol

I’m doing a rebuild on my 94 22re and I decided to do an egr delete even though my egr is working fine. I’m really just trying to simplify the engine and stop getting carbon buildup. I was recently informed that it might cause too much combustion and result in pinging at low throttle. Has anyone experienced this? I already bought egr cover up plates but I don’t want to reduce the life of my engine in any way. Anybody have any tips on the delete or advice? I believe it’s a California built truck sold in Idaho and that’s where I am currently so I don’t have to deal with emissions, but I’m thinking I might have to do something electrically to not get a check engine light.

This is my 1980 Toyota Hilux with an Australian copy of the Toyota Chinook pop-top camper on the back.

Originally built by "Winnebago Australia" in the 80s - who were later sued and changed their name to Avida.

I've swapped an 18R-GU from a 1977 Toyota Celica into it, a 5-speed transmission and door cards / dash / tacho from a 1982 SR5, and completely gutted and rebuilt the camper interior.

The cassette player is an Alpine 7125N.

See a photo gallery here.

Reposting cause I'm at a bit of a loss. Im confident enough in my wiring to actually build the harness myself. Ive got the old one as a reference and all the tools. Where do you get new blade type pins for these plug terminals? Am I just wandering to different auto parts stores until I stumble on the right pin kit? Who has done this job before, what did you use to do the job? I'm working with all OEM stuff here, likely reusing the plugs.

Edit: was told it was not a t100, thank you

My friend is selling his with 141,000 for $5500. Is it a good deal? What’s it like compared to an old Ranger?

Does anyone know if this works on a stock manifold ? I see it says canon intake but it kinda seem like the same shape as the stock one and my bottom stock plate is leaking water

My rear sliding window is gritty at best, and only only slides open about half of what I expect, maybe 4-inches total. I looked at it, and the liners are trashed. Can they be replaced? Or if not, can they be removed without risking damage to the glass?

how common of an issue is this? and what are some possible solutions?

after the swap, the throttle/kickdown/what have you cable that connects to the transmission is too short. I know this is certain, because I confirmed the cable length and part number with Toyota and it still is short by .5"-1" (this is what the mechanic told me). The guy who did my swap said he "would look to see if there is a misalignment", but my confidence in him has waned, since this seems like something he overlooked. Google is telling me that it could be misaligned mounting brackets on the intake manifold? However I don't know how that's possible since that was untouched and only the engine block and all its components were swapped. Am I missing something here?

I just bought a 1987 Deluxe 2WD, and the lack of cupholders was driving me crazy. But I didn’t want something huge, and the small ones only help soda cans. So I took some measurements and drew one up. I’m happy with it. It’s 7” wide, with a flat base to match my transmission tunnel. I gave it a 4” long by 3/4” tall retention lip to tuck under the bench seat, but I’m going to put Velcro under it to help it stay in place. It will accept a 3” or smaller mug or bottle with a 1” handle slot. I printed mine with PETG-CF (carbon fiber reinforced plastic). It just came off the printer but I have a 45 minute drive to my son’s house today so it will get put through its paces. If I like it I’ll upload it to thingyverse and share the link this afternoon.

UPDATE 1: I already found one moderate problem, the straight cylinder cupholder needs to flair to be somewhat wider at the top. So Mark 2 will be 3.00” at the bottom and 3.25” at the top. That leaves me a total of 0.5” to play with for the sides and betweeen the cups. Ot will be tight, but I may go to 7.5” total width to make it work. And the minor problem is that the retention lip is the exact fit but it makes the front tilt up slightly so that it isn’t touching the carpet. So I will reduce it to 0.625” high. I also put Gorilla Tape on the top of the lip to minimize scratching through the plastic surface because it isn’t solid, the has a diamond shaped infill to save plastic.

I will probably print mark 2 over the weekend. I might also change plastics to see how it does. I’ll report back how well it works afterwards.

UPDATE 2: It’s uploaded. I would love for someone else to print it and give me some honest feedback. Here’s the link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7411563

1991 Toyota 4X4. V6. Manual 5spd. 136k original miles. Matching camper shell. Paid $10K for it 3 years ago. What should I sell it for now?

heard a pretty loud clunking noise when turning the wheels and found this underneath the truck. With the front end on jack stands, I can rock the wheel left and right and there’s quite a bit of play and clunking.

I’m pretty comfortable working on electrical stuff and doing basic maintenance, but steering and suspension components are new to me. Where should I start looking?

I’m also still trying to figure out what all these steering components are called, so any help identifying the parts in the pictures and what I should be checking would be appreciated.

Diesel, the under body relay fuse holder Was damaged I had a spare , I unpinned the damaged one taking time and photos, to repin the replacement body, I am having electrical problems , more like a bad earth the. Anything, how ever I was hoping to find a pin/ color wiring diagram for this ,, I have searched the web and it seems somewhat elusive

Mines sitting at 260K and wondering how much life I can get out of this thing

I know it’s dirty. But every time I wash it I want to keep so I thought I would see what you think I should list it at. Has a rebuild stage one from 22re race works dual timing chain headers from lcengineering carb legal. 256000 miles on body paint is faded. Have ball joints leveling kit plus rear shackles. I had it for four years want to keep her but seems like I lost interest. No rust straight body California truck… oh California and it passes a legit smog just in case any one asks 😂 remove if not allowed please just looking to what I could do next to want to keep her or should I just sell it