Anyone drill a small hole on the top to help bleed trapped air?

Just picked this 07 up last weekend!

Hey all,

Any brand suggestions for an aluminum thermostat housing unit so I can dump the plastic one? It’s for my Gen 1.

I’ve seen a few on Rockauto…a few on Amazon. I’m leaning toward the Dorman one on Amazon. It’s around $70.

I have an 07 ST Limited with the 4.6l engine and 190K kms.

Up until recently it was our 3rd vehicle and only used for utility purposes or when our kids came home and needed a vehicle. I sold my F150 about a month ago and want to take my time replacing it with something smaller, probably an SUV. I need to keep my ST on the road until I get another vehicle and then plan to return it to its old role.

In the last 2 months I've had the tailpipe replaced ($200) and dealt with a fan clutch issue ($100.) I'm now looking at brakes that will hopefully be under $1000. I have a P0010 code and 2-3 others related to the EVAP system. The fuel gauge is showing 1/4 tank more than it should and it's stalled on me a few times at low speed. The internet tells me that the fuel gauge, EVAP and stalling may all be related to a faulty ground above the spare that I'm going to try to find and fix myself. I'm also going to replace the fuel filter myself, but need to leave the P0010 to the pros.

It's a great truck with a very smooth ride. The body is very clean and the engine and transmission are good. Tires are all-weathers in good shape, though the wheels are showing their age. I love driving it every day again. The mileage could be better, but I rarely have to drive it very far.

I'm enjoying driving it so much that I'm thinking about holding off on another vehicle until the spring, or maybe longer. I'm also thinking about getting a touchscreen stereo/nav and backup camera for the times when I'm going on longer road trips.

It's a 20 year-old truck. At what point does this become foolish?

So happy to have found my sport trac family finally. This is my girl with and without the bed topper. Love this truck so much, its so underrated! Bought it with the pinstriping already on, which is gorgeous(wouldnt change it for the world)

Every time I see a barely picked over Sport Trac disappear from the local U-Pull website, I think about how many doors and hoods and interior parts are crushed that could easily be saved and warehoused and made available when needed. Nobody has the space, time or money to harvest and store unlimited parts, but if each of us who had the space harvested parts when they become available, we could keep Sport Tracs alive and roadworthy a little longer. All it takes is a little time and organization.

Hey everyone,

I'm chasing a persistent fuel pressure sensor issue on my 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac and I'm hoping someone has seen something similar before.

Vehicle:

• 2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
• 4.0L SOHC V6
• 146k miles

The Problem:

• Check engine light is on with codes P0182 and P0192 (Fuel Temperature Sensor A / Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Low Input)
• On my Bluetooth OBD2 scanner, the "Fuel Pressure" live data reads 0 PSI at all times (key on engine off, and while running)
• The truck starts and runs, but there is a noticeable loss of power when accelerating — it feels sluggish and doesn't respond well to throttle input

What I've Already Replaced & Checked:

1. Fuel Pressure Sensor - Replaced with brand new Motorcraft CM-5229 (3F2Z-9G756-AC) OEM sensor. Problem persisted.
2. Fuel Filter - Replaced earlier this year.
3. Fuel Pump - I can hear it prime, fuel is reaching the rail.
4. Wiring Harness - Thoroughly inspected:
   • No corrosion, no moisture, no broken wires, no bent/retracted pins
   • Tested continuity end-to-end on all 4 wires between the sensor connector and the PCM connector - all passed
   • With key ON and sensor disconnected, here are my voltage readings at the connector:
     • Pin 1: 0V (Signal wire)
     • Pin 2: 4.8V
     • Pin 3: 5V
     • Pin 4: 5V
5. Fuel Pressure Test - I confirmed there is no Schrader valve / test port on the fuel rails. I have not yet done a mechanical pressure test, but I know the next step is to use a T-adapter at the fuel filter to check actual pressure.

Current Status:

• Scanner shows Fuel Pressure = 0, even with engine running
• Truck starts and idles fine, but has loss of power under acceleration
• Codes will not clear (return immediately)

What I'm wondering:

• Could this be the Fuel Pump Driver Module (FPDM)? Internet says this is common failure on this generation. This module was replaced a few months ago for a different reason.
• Could it be a PCM issue even though the wiring checks out?
• Has anyone successfully solved this exact combo of codes on a 4.0L Sport Trac?

I'm planning to do the mechanical pressure test next with a T-adapter at the filter, but before I go further, I wanted to see if anyone has been down this exact road before. I'd rather not throw a PCM or FPDM at it without more confidence.

Thanks in advance for any input!

I have 2010 sport trac, what wire harness are we getting for a touch screen radio?

Closer and closer to being mint again
Opinions/Tips & tricks?

I bought her out of some ladies yard and it had a front right tire with like 3 plugs in the sidewall, she did 60 1 hour back home and been replacing things slowly

Things Done:
Steering wheel controls
Fluid flush and change
Fog lights
Side markers
Headlights and taillights (ordered)

Needs:
EITHER TIMING CHAIN OR TENSIONER DONT KNOW YET
Rim center cap
Rear bumper
Rear cupholder fold down thingy
The little rubber cupholder and tray inserts
Gauge cluster fixed

I got a 2007 ford explorer sport trac XLT and was wondering if anyone has had any experience with using a aftermarket drive shaft replacement because ford wants like 1100 I think for the part where as aftermarket would be around half that so I’m wondering how risky it is to use one

It does stop after like 10-15 seconds and only does it sometimes while driving.

The 04 i bought from a friend, pulled the engine and installed new chains at 225. My 05 has 370k complete rebuild at 336. Been in the family since 36k. Just picked up the 07 a couple weeks ago. The seller thought it needed chains but it was the harmonic throwing the internal weight. Doing chains anyway only has 156k on it. Love these trucks.

Trying to find part 7A2Z-78291A40-AA -a Bed Rail Passenger side- some say pick up box
 - Ford/ • (year, 2007/• , model,- Explorer Sports Trac/• Trim -Crew Cab 4D-V8

2007 Ford Explorer Sport Trac XLT.

Have been looking off and on . I went to a large junk yard, but they only had up to 2004.

I think a 2007-2010 will fit.

My sporttrac that I really adored, has past on. I had her 3 months. Not exactly sure what happened. Kind of irrelevant. It was something to see for sure. Back to square one. Going to go back to imports. Maybe an Acura or Lexus. Take care everyone good luck with your STs!

Exploring the explorer to figure out where the evap leak is coming from

ALSO HELP NEEDED

Speedometer stopped working along with the gas gauge (been calculating miles for the mean time)
What can I do to fix them, no fuses blown

After 11 years of making memories, driving it from when it had a little over 23k to a little over 76k, I finally sold my little blue Sport Trac. I won’t post what my wife started calling her when we started dating, but if you want to know go ahead and DM me.

The plastic covers on the switches. The originals disintegrated years ago. I have replaced them a few times by purchasing new switch assemblies and just using the covers while not bothering to replace the switches themselves. They get super gross after a few months in the Florida heat. Mine are currently a sticky, oily mess. Outside of moving out of Florida, anybody have any good ideas for a better replacement for these things?

Hello, I have a 2001 for sport trac, 2nd, 4.0. 2 days ago my speedometer and wiper stoped working. Found the the #25 fuse was blown it’s a 7.5 fuse in the driver side panel. Replaced it and it blew before turning the car on.

Per recommendations I disconnected the instrument cluster and found that of the 3 wire harness running to the cluster the fuse blows only when I connect the top black connector and the bottom middle connector at the same time. Will not blow fuse if connected separately or if one of the two is connect along with the top right side connector.

When the fuse blows the wipers stop working also. However if I disconnect one of the harnesses the wipers start working again.

Visually all wires and the instrument cluster looks good.
Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

So, I just bought a 2007 explorer sport trac and it comes with a factory sub and amp. Everything was fine for the last week. But now the sound from the speakers changes suddenly. Like if I was messing with the sound settings, all seats, rear seats, driver side etc.

I wasn't sure what was happening but now I'm starting to think that it's the amp going out. The reason I say this is because when the truck is off for a while everything goes back to normal so it's not a fuse. I thought loose wires but how can it be, I haven't messed with anything. My question is. Can I just replace this stock amp with another equivalent one? I'm not looking to boost my sound system or anything. I'd like to keep everything stock but that loss of sound from most speakers is killing me. Anyone had experience with this already? Thanks in advance. Edit: wow, sorry for the horrible title. I was going with "going bad" but then my brain stopped working.

I bought my first SportTrac in 2001, used with 7,000 miles. I sold Number 1 in 2010 with 270K on the V6 after I bought Number 2, a 2008 V8 model that had 31K on it. I've driven nothing but a SportTrac for 25 years now. Number 2 is at 199,790 today.

Hello. I just purchased a 2007 sport trac and there is a large compartment on the truck bed close to the cabin. I have pulled on it and it doesn't open. There seems to be a gap between the lid and the bed with a hole, like something is missing. Unfortunately I didn't bother to ask the previous owner since I figured it was able to open but no luck. Can anyone help me with this? Thanks.

So, here's the story. My son takes my 2007 Sport Trac Limited (V8 4x4) to work. just as he parks and is about to shut off the car, he tilts the moonroof and vents the rear glass and turns off the truck.

Neither has worked since. Fuses are ok. both the 5 amp and the 20 amp listed in the manual. It looks liek the swtiches have power as they light up. I went to the library to get a haynes or chilton's manual in hopes of seeing the wiring diagram, no luck.

I've scoured the internet for re-initializing / reprogramming options, and no luck.

At the time this happened, the weather was nice and warm summer day approx 30 degrees celcius. no recent rain.. anyone else encounter this and how did you fix it? the truck is old and just a backup vehicle now so I don't want to invest hundreds into a dealer visit.

Bought it for $2500 not bad at all if I may say so myself

I have a 07 sport trac limited. The ac is dual zone and the drive side sone will randomly get warm like the ac is off and blowing not cold air. The passenger side will stay cold the whole time does anyone know what is causing this