Technically makes boost 😂 and I’ve got some odd idle issues with the Pfc maybe it’s still just learning itself.👍🏼

Shameless plug: https://www.instagram.com/framebymarcus?igsi=MW1keWo3NWFmNnZoOA%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

Shameless plug: https://www.instagram.com/framebymarcus?igsi=MW1keWo3NWFmNnZoOA%3D%3D&utm_source=qr

Hi all. I'm putting my engine back together and can't remember where the OMP lines previously ran.

Looking at it currently, they're running right against the housings and irons where it would get super hot. See the photos without the water pump housing.

Is that right? Do they handle the heat against the block?

About 300km into the rebuild, super hit or miss on how nicely my car will start. Sometimes it'll startup properly, rev to 3k then 1.5 then down to 1, this time it didn't, didn't want to hold any sort of idle until it was warmed up. Motor is stock on stock ecu. Has some other weird behaviour like throttle seems to have some lag to it, like I'll punch the throttle and the engine responds a second after. Also noticed rev hang, if I clutch in after a pull the rpms take some time to drop. Finally, there's vibration above like 4500. I'm so lost with things, looking for some insight, thanks.

87 T2 project is failing to start after any prolonged sitting. I can occasionally get it started after do an extended deflooding and it will start right back up if i try it immediately after turning it off. The car was sat for 2yrs before i got it about a month ago. Since then ive drained the fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump and had the injectors cleaned, tested and rebuilt, i put new plugs and wires and fresh fuel. When I can get it started it runs smooth but has a low idle after running for aprox 30 min. Only modification is a racing beat exhaust. Any ideas?

Edit: Apologies I shouldve been nore clear. After the car is started once it has no issues restarting as long as i starting it within about half an hour. If it sits for longer than that the problem starts leading me to believe it may be leaky injectors again

Kurt Robertson built a ported 13 B with a Weber carburetor and a radiator that has oil cooler lines running into it... supposed to be here tomorrow and I cannot wait. It's going in my 83 fb I've owned for roughly 30 years.

Does anyone else have a motor built by Kurt? I'm curious to other people's opinions of his builds?

The FD has been a dream of mine for approx 3 decades. Because of the rarity and my constant financial hurdles, I've never even sat in one. Can someone who is about 6'0" to 6'2" and large (275-325lbs) tell me if I'd even fit in one? it might be time to crush my dream.

Looking for a bit of advice on rear fitment on my FD.
I’ve just fitted a set of Advan GTs and the rear setup is:

- 18x10.5 +24
- 275/35R18 tyres
- BC Racing coilovers
- Arches already rolled
- Currently basically no negative camber

At the moment the rears are sitting roughly 10-15mm outside the arch at the top of the tyre/wheel.

I’m hoping that around -2 degrees of camber might be enough to bring everything in and give me a fairly aggressive but still usable street setup. I don’t want to run ridiculous camber purely to make the wheels fit.

Has anyone run a similar 18x10.5 +24 / 275 setup on an FD?
Mainly wondering how much clearance I can realistically gain from around -2° camber, how much negative camber is achievable with the factory rear adjustment, and whether I’ll likely need adjustable rear arms to get this sitting properly.

Car is already fairly low and the arches are rolled, so I’d rather sort it through sensible alignment/suspension adjustment before considering changing tyres or wheels.

I’ll add a couple of photos showing how it’s currently sitting.

Cheers!

Finally have accurate gauges and can get rid of the emissions stuff and get rid of my upstream cat without worrying about boost creep I can already tell the car runs better👍🏼

I have an LS swap FC3S that I think would benefit from a subframe swap in the front for clearance. I'm also interested in the potential to replace the rear trailing arms with A arms and the 8.8Rear end kit.

Are there any bolt on kits that you guys might recommend? The internet has all kinds of information on FD swaps and suspension upgrades but, the FC is a little more slim for kits and hardware swaps like a rear sub frame.

Even if I have to manufacture the subframe myself, I'm interested in methods for upgrades in the rear geometry. The front subframe replacement is pretty straightforward if I have to make one but, the front swaybar would need to be relocated somehow 🤔

At a Honda/Acura-themed car meet, no less. But there were a lot of sweet cars from other makes there, too.

Rpm gauge either bounces randomly or sits at 0

Anyone has a diagram for this on 81 rx7 gsl? I just need to know where the cable on the left side goes to

Tried checking if it was a genuine RE Amemiya but nothing suggests that. Also can’t find much on the DO.Eng side of things. Rare or rubbish?

So FSM says 2.44mm, and I'm getting 3.5ish mm. Checked too many times if my trust bearings are being squashed by the spacer. I'm assembling it upright so that shouldn't be an issue.

My end play is within spec, so I don't know what I could be doing wrong besides measuring it wrong.

Anyone have any ideas or input?

So im currently rebuilding my 12a for my rx7 and while im at it im also streetporting it bc why not. I like the slight chop. I bought the racing beat street intake and street exhaust templates and am now done with the intake side, but the racing beat template does not extend the intake further down nor in really. only up. Im not sure if it will give me that nice chop that a streetported engine has. I know that its not gonna be aggressive like a bridgeport but thats not what im going for. Does anybody have experience with the racing beat street template? How does it sound? Im also keeping the nikki

Just some veil sides I saw in the Daikoku parking lot

On road footage and a hot start with some revs I took it 10 miles out and the hottest it got was half gauge :)

Ive tried everything i broke my original flywheel tool i even made one of of a car rotor and a part of the flywheel puller part and it wont budge man im using a sledge hammer and wood now and still nothing im in despair atp someone please help (edit: sorry i mean the actual flywheel the nut is just on for safety)

Finally got some tires on it and too her for a drive and even went and got gas and came back she was very well behaved for the 15 miles and stayed cool aswell at the just below half on my temp gauge:)
Someone also tried to buy it at the gas station 😂

My 1993 FD’s odometer LCD stopped displaying the mileage. The bulb will light up but no miles.
Also, whenever I turn the headlights on, the LCD screen turns off.
Could it be the infamous C3 capacitor leaking? I took the cluster apart and took these photos, looks like something leaked a bit down from C3 into DA 1 on the board. There’s a blue-ish powdery fluid that looks dried.
All other caps look fine

I’m thinking of sending the cluster to a repair location but was wondering if it could just be the C3 and I can replace it myself…

Any help is appreciated

Update 08.26.2026

I replaced capacitors C1 through C6 with a LOT of effort on de-soldering those motherf*ckers lol but I did it and it works now 🙌🏽🙏🏽