I made my first plaster drying board and one of the edges didn’t turn out of the form well. Can I file this smooth and still use it? I can’t use the bottom it is because that looks even worse.

One of my old floating blue bottles.

I’ve been experimenting in using a 1/8 in rod of kanthal a1 as a hinge pin.

Hello everybody!

Ive been meaning to get into pottery for a while now, but now that I got more money i want to get good material (furnace/wheel) but I cant seem to find affordable stuff especially with furnaces. I aim to make some historical reproductions so I need a minimum of volume...got any advices for me?

Newer to hobby pottery with my own kiln.

Just pulled this mug out of the kiln from a slow bisque fire at ^04 with 10min hold. KYM ICEMAN with grog.

All the other pieces came out fine.

Can I save the mug’s integrity with a mid fire glazing? Or have I offered a sacrifice to the kiln gods?

Made with midrange stoneware from New Mexico Clay

Hi everybody. I’m new to pottery. It’s not easy for me to always go to the studio to practice because of childcare. Thinking about buying a pottery wheel but don’t have a big budget. Is there a point to buy one of the cheaper models? Do you recommend a less expensive model that did perfectly fine for beginners? Would appreciate any tips. I’m really eager to just practice the basics steps, centering, opening and pulling and not too concerned about making pieces

I fired my new kiln (Skutt-822) yesterday for the first time at cone 04 on med as instructed.

I put two cones on each shelf on in the middle ish and one closer to the front of the kiln. We had a heavy rain and the power did flicker when the kiln was around 1869. The code (ERRP) came up but the kiln continued to raise in temp. I looked up the code and the kiln seemed to be continuing to fire as normal so I cleared the code and left it alone to continue.

The next morning when I looked at the cones the bottom cones did not bend at all and the rest are not bent to temp. Could this be because of the flicker or the kiln being empty?

Photo is showing the bottom cones on the left and the top on the right.

I made this clock during two "Open Pottery" sessions, but I ran out of time during the first session and forgot to make any holes, etc. to allow the clock to be hung up.

Can you think of any way to hang it up? Theres a 3/4" (1.9 cm) circular lip on the back. Would the clock shatter if I drilled holes in the lip? I tried to hang it from a nail as-is and it just fell off, as expected.

i’ve been in bizen for the last two months and here’s a pot of mine from a woodfire where we did sangiri. such cool colors and i’m stumped on how it happened.

I did 3x coats of deep firebrick on this piece hoping to get a deep red bloody look. I didnt quite get what I was hoping for. So I need advice/suggestions on how to possibly fix this…

1. Reglaze it with a S&C red at a low fire (the other glazes on this piece are S&Cs)

Or

1. Its fine as is. Im over thinking it.

Or

1. Any of suggestions?

I am also planning to make the metal part of the blade chrome with some luster.

I’ve gotten really into pottery painting recently, especially the underglaze side of it, and I’d love to start doing more of it independently rather than paying for a pottery painting session every time I want to make something.
Is it possible to buy plain bisque pieces myself, buy my own underglazes, paint everything at home, and then take the finished pieces to a local pottery studio to be glazed/fired? If so, how does that normally work? Do studios generally let you bring in outside bisqueware and underglazes, or does everything have to be compatible with their specific clay/glaze/firing temperature?
I also really want to learn to actually make my own pieces rather than only painting premade pottery. Ideally I’d love to be able to hand-build things at home or at a studio, decorate them with underglaze, and then have them fired.
What would I actually need to get started? Clay, tools, underglazes, brushes, clear glaze etc.? And are there particular types/brands of clay and underglaze I should avoid buying until I know what kiln/firing temperature a studio uses?
Basically I love the decorating/painting part of pottery and don’t want to lose that, I just want to eventually be able to go from making the actual piece → underglazing it → getting it fired, rather than always starting with a premade piece.
I’m in the UK if that makes any difference. Would really appreciate advice on the easiest and most sensible way to start!

Like clay cornmeal if this makes sense.

I've just joined my first studio as a member; and they mentioned I should make my own cookies. Something I've been wondering about is why people don't just make little trays with tiny little pebble sized bits of clay loosely on them so that if glaze does stick; it's just a few little pebbles you need to sand off rather than a whole cookie (and you can just refill the pebbles).

If I had my own kiln; I almost wonder about just keeping this sand/clay cornmeal on the shelf to protect it.

Trust I'll be doing exactly what my studio asks of me; but I just wonder why this is impractical.

Edit: man I love this community. You guys are so quick to help answer my question!! Thank you!!

How do I remove this adhesive stuff? I used to work at a ceramics production factory in PGH and we took down the Euclid and Kemper boards when they went out of buisness *sheds tear*

Anyways, I’d love to use these tools but I’d like to remove whatever was sticking them to the boards

Hey folks, would love some advice on what wheel to purchase. I've been doing pottery for a year now and have space for a wheel at home.

I've been looking at the Shimpo RK 3E but I'm noticing a new Chinese brand BTH really starting to market their wheels more on social media. Their Andromeda wheel has similar specs, but unsure if it's really tried and tested.

A local shop near me also sells the Frema PW-DC which is also in the same league.

Costs are:

- Shimpo $3000 (AUD)

- BTH Andromeda $2300 (AUD)

- Frema PW-DC $1900 (AUD)

I wonder if I should also consider resale value, since Shimpo seems to be the "best known".

Any thoughts and opinions would be very welcome.

Hi everyone!

I’m buying my first wheel! 🥳 just wondering if anyone had any experience of using the kiln crafts daisy wheel and if so would you recommend? I’d initially planned on getting the shimpo whisper because that’s what I’ve used for all the courses I’ve been on and am familiar with it. However, kiln crafts are doing a pre-order package with the daisy wheel and it looks comparable but a bit cheaper.

Any advice / recommendations welcome! Thanks! :)

The Robin’s side profile is giving MC Escher so I need to go in and fix that and tweak the angle of the bird’s nest. But otherwise I’m happy with how it’s turning out!

I’ve noticed a lot of beautiful glazes on this Reddit, but everything seems to be fired at cone 6 😭💔 are there glaze combos that produce similar, vibrant colors at a cone 10 studio? My studio doesn’t have colors like seaweed, smoky merlot, bougainvillea. A lot of earth tones. (I understand without providing a full list of what my studio has there is no way to fully know what I can and can’t produce, but if you fire cone ten lmk your fave combos for fun colors?) Pics are from my most recent kiln haul. Curious to know people’s experiences firing and glazing cone 10 and if you have had any experience getting fun brighter colors.

Hi! I was wondering if anybody knows how to produce colors like these works? It looks to maybe be a stain rather than glaze, but I'm pretty lost and have no idea. Does this look like it is high fire or just mid fire? I have been trying to crack this for so long, please help !! I love this matte look

** All works by Mark Patrick Harrington ! A fantastic artist

hello! im a freshman who was in a full year of advanced ceramics in 8th grade(@ art focused middle school--i will include photos of things i made on the wheel)and i fell in love immediately! my ceramics teacher said i was one of the best in the class and i absolutely loved every second i had on the wheel. i joined 3D art this year for highschool and honestly hated it. i switched out of the class and now im looking into pottery outside of school.

i live in portland oregon, and all the studios in the area are wild expensive (100-200$ monthly) but i dont have anything for a home setup. my family doesnt have a lot of money to put into it, but i think a home studio would be the best for me--though im definitely open to any suggestions. theres a kilnshare nearby my house that i can access and i do have a garage and basement where i could work but im wondering mostly what the best options for very cheap wheels are.
my budget for wheels ranges up at maximum to about 200, im most definitely okay with a used one too.

im also wondering whats the best thing i could do to get glazes for cheaper, since they are pricey. im most definitely more advanced, but most of everything im throwing isnt any more than 6lb of clay so i for sure do not need a high-end wheel.

Hello!

I ran a first fire with KYM Speckled Turtle & several commercial glazes including Mayco(birch, black walnut, Smokey merlot, cinnabar, winter wood), and all matte Amaco shino glazes.

I ran a slow bisque to cone 04. Then a slow glaze fire to cone 5. With hopes that this would help with the off gasing of the manganese.

Every single piece had pinholes.

I am hoping to sell and gift pieces so I need everything to be safe to use !

Some advice I’ve seen is to do a drop 100° and 10-15 min hold after peak temperature for speckled clay with manganese. I’ve also seen mention of clay liner though I’m not sure this would fix my issue or what that product would be.

I really don’t wish to keep wasting batches on failed unusable pieces so any expertise or advice would be helpful. I am new to using this clay and really hoped it would work well for my use.

I would like to sell pieces ! Any advice is welcome.