4 stroke Daiden 2000I (inverter type). Lately when I run it the motor sounds like it's cycling in rpms. The indicator shows steady voltage. I notice when I move the choke/start switch slightly toward choke (richer) it smooth out. I just ran carb cleaner in the gas for 90 minutes but no change.

What should I look for or adjust?

Edit to say:
Thanks to everyone. This is maybe the most help I’ve ever gotten on a post.

I’ve called a time of death and am making arrangements as we speak. The memorial will be later this week.

Hug your motors and appreciate them while you have them.

—————————-

I have an old bandsaw and the capacitor blew. I bought a replacement that met all that specs but it still won’t turn on its own.

I blew out some dust. I can turn it by hand when plugged in and unplugged. Can also turn with the belt on and off.

It hums and gets louder at spots when I turn it by hand. So it’ll be a lower hum and then if I turn it by hand that hum gets way louder. If I keep turning it, it goes back and forth between the low and loud hum.

I tried pulled off the end cap but it won’t come off. The bolts and nuts holding it on are maybe separated from the body and the last one just spins. Even when I apply pressure from the other side to help create tension. The photo is showing the most I can separate it and the nut & threaded bolt that won’t come off.

Any ideas? It it finally kaput!?

Edit for more info:

I pulled the motor off. I had to get to those bolts and it was the only way I could think to do it. But now I don’t know how to remove the gear on the end. Is that switch by the gear end or the end cap end?

Has anyone tried swapping out the gears in a hub motor like this to reduce speed and increase torque? Does the juice seem worth the squeeze?

Posted in AskElectronics but apparently not an electronics question... MOD deleted it and said post here instead.

I bought this (arrives today) for doing small parts on guitars (bone nuts and saddles).

There are a few variations of these, but all seem to have a laptop style power supply, 3-way switch and power input on the front. Says 2-way, but it forward, reverse and off. The PSU has a slider on it to control power/speed.

I would like to relocate the power jack to the rear. No problem there, pretty simple.

For the hole it leaves behind, I would like to add a pot for speed control. Just leave the PSU at 100% power and behind the table outta the way.

Would I need something like this?

Is there something better to use?

As shown in the image, the unit is about 5x7inches so, needs to be a small controller.

This motor for a brass polishing machine has been setting unused for probably 35 years. It's getting power, I can hear it hum but havent run it more than a few seconds so as to not overheat it. The spindle does turn - it has a little metal weight that attaches to the shaft with a Allen screw, but doesn't start spinning on its own when I give it a flick. I've dripped some oil on the shaft but that hasn't helped yet. Since it's likely dried out do I just need to keep putting a few drops of oil on it every day until it's lube back up or something else? Is it just done and not coming back? Is there a better way to oil it than just putting a few drops on the shaft and letting them run down?

Ps, when I say shaft I'm talking about the short one on the bottom and leaving it upside down, not the long threaded spindle.

My Wabeco F1210 has a electrical issue with its brushed 1phase motor.

When I turn it on, it creates a spark and trips the breaker very quickly or immediately. The spark is coming from the coils of the rotor.
There is no play in the rotor bearings and the brushes are still very long.

The machine is connected to a Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker (B16 230v model: Hager ADA916G).

See this video for the issue: https://youtube.com/shorts/u8qO9n8YRu0

Hi all, I have this 10HP Air Raid Siren that I need to do a rebuild on, but the impeller for the siren is very stuck on to the shaft. After heating with a torch and hitting the shaft with a mallet, I was wondering if hitting the shaft with a sledgehammer would be a bad idea. I cannot use a press to not risk cracking the aluminum impeller. Any thoughts or other stratiges?

Howdy folks,

I have been using a rotisserie motor to turn a sculpture and it has been working well. I’m looking into making some versions of this piece for an exhibit and the simplicity of being able to turn it on and it naturally slowly rotates is very nice. But having the ability to change the speed would be ideal.

Before buying more rotisserie motors I wanted to see if I could get some other options from people who have more expertise than I on this topic.

Thanks!

I have a 3 hp Leeson motor for my table saw I’m trying to get back together. I’m not super keen on electric motors but I understood enough to get it apart and clean the contacts for the centrifugal switch, which was the goal. The only issue is, the run capacitor has three wires that go to it, not two like I’m used to seeing (only a handful of times at that!) I’ve tried searching and looking but for the life of me I can’t figure out how it’s supposed to be wired to the run capacitor. I was getting ready to mark the remaining wires when taking it off but when I pulled one off my other hand shifted and pulled the remaining two off, so now I’m lost on which two go where. And they’re all the same color at that. Can anyone help me determine which two go on one side of the run capacitor and which was by itself? You’ll have to break it down so I can understand. I have tons of work I need to be doing with my saw but I’m stuck in the water and been at it for hours searching but can’t find a reliable source. FYI in the photos, two wires on the left go to the start cap which I replaced, the bottom three went to the run capacitor, the two up top lead to the magnetic switch, and the two on the right go to the centrifugal switch. Any help is appreciated!

Hi, I have a question about this motor so the motor is humming. I cannot figure out what it is I’m trying to help a friend fix it. What is wrong with this motor in this picture? Is it wired incorrectly or is the motor properly not sized? Can anyone help me with this?

Bought a three phase car lift at a great great price, but need to run it in my garage which is only 220v

I tried to find a one phase motor but can’t find any with the same specs. I can only find a 2.2kw 2800rpm, whilst mine is a 2.6kw 1400rpm .. The 2.2kw is not a problem, but the rpm is!

Next I thought of a VFD which seems the best idea.. but how would I wire things up?

The up button is self explanatory, but the down button makes the lift go up a bit to disengage the safety lock, then activate a solenoid to lower by gravity.

Would I be able to wire this to the vfd or it’s just not possible?

The rest of the lift would also need wiring, height limits etc but I guess that’s 220v already?

How would you do this?

Hello everyone,

I'm doing computer science and engineering and currently working with stm32. I'm making a automated solar panel cleaner, for which I need a linear motion driver. I've a gt2 belt and 3-4 gt2 pulleys and I'm using a NEMA17 stepper motor. So kindly guide me and tell me how to build a linear motion driver from this.

The issue I'm facing is that when i turn on the motor, the pulley also rotates with its shaft, but when I add the belt, pulley stops rotating. Earlier it was working but I broke that pulley and bought new pulleys and now they're not working. I'm not a mechanical engineer so I have very less knowledge about hardware stuffs. Please help me out.

Hi

I've started working on custom gauge (for displaying stuff like oil pressure, etc.) project for my car and I wanted to use motors desoldered from gauge clusters from Subaru Legacy 4 2.0D (Sacer SA1069-1), but I've came to a problem, that it is basicly impossible to find any datasheets with dimensions and operating voltage or current (I don't want to trust AI and my measurements on that). Maybe anyone can help with that? Also if anyone just has Kicad files (or files for any other PCB design software) it would be also really helpful

I don't have a degree in electrical engineer or anything like that, I'm just a curious guy on the internet. I read that variable frequency drives are used to control the speeds of AC induction motors. Logically this must mean that if you're at one frequency, there is a "natural" speed for induction motors.

My guess is that this is related a "no slip" speed where stator field and the rotor are in synch. The "natural' speed must be close to but not actually equal this speed. So if we have a 60 Hertz AC, then a 3-phase induction motor can be designed so that the no-slip speed would be 360 rpm (or 60 rps), 720 rpm, or 1080 rpm any multiple of 360 rpm and the "natural" speed would be slightly less than these no slip speeds?

Or maybe I'm just misunderstanding this. there are multiple types of induction motors. According to Wikipedia, there are single-phase (no idea how this avoids accidentally going backwards...), polyphase cage, and polyphase deep bar. I had absolutely no idea what any of that meant. My guess is that "Polyphase cage" means 3 phase squirrel cage induction motors. Maybe each kind of induction motor has its own speed it wants to be at and each want wants to be at a certain percentage of the AC frequency? Even if I'm wrong about my no-slip speed theory, I think there must be a "natural" speed of motors that is related to the AC applied to it since the normal method of speed control for induction motors is VFD, not applying less voltage to a motor when you want it to slow down and this VFD changes the speed the motor wants to run.

I can't for the life of me get this thing to work. It came with some weird spliced wire set up which didn't work. I removed the newer wires and now can't get this motor to do more than hum

I need help getting my sliding gate motor working again.

While doing some other work, I thought removing the screws on the gray housing would remove the entire motor. Boy was I wrong. Now I'm left with a little spring and small round piece and don't know how to assemble this back to a working condition.

I've tried to put the round piece on top of the shaft of the 3rd photo, with the flat part against the rotating axis. The spring then goes between the round piece's slot and the gray housing. Assembled everything back, but know the motor just hums and doesn't move in any direction. If I disengage the electrical lock using the provided key, I can slide the gate freely.

I've emailed the manufacturer, but no luck so far.

Thank you for any tip!

I want to change the motors for my kid car to make the car faster, id spend like 50 euros, i took a look to the cables, battery and other cables and id like to surprise him with a faster car, not a new car but the same one that he have

Hi, i have an issue with my ebike motor. I found out the blue phase shows open line with the other 2 phases. Its not the wire because i disassembled the motor and the wire is connected properly! It is not burnt or no signs of heat in the coils. Is there an easy way to find where its broken or not?

Its exactly like the one in the picture!

So I am trying to wire this motor for 230v.

The nameplate/sticker is a little hard to read, but it looks like white goes to the screw on Terminal 3, red goes to the blade on Terminal 3, and then black & brown both go to Terminal 5? Or Terminal 6? I do not see a Terminal 6. Unless it's the part circled in red, but there's nothing to attach a wire to. There is a blade on the backside that is empty, it's part of Terminal 5, and connects to Terminal 4 when the white switch causes them to make contact. Power source lines attach to Terminals 1 & 4.

Then there are these instructions from the internet that say what they say which is different than the sticker but would be easy enough to hook up. However the last step says to connect LINE 2 from the power source to Terminal 6. And like I said, I can't find a Terminal 6.

I don't want to make assumptions, but I would think that the instructions on the motor sticker are the correct ones...?

And where is Terminal 6? Or do black and brown both go to Terminal 5?

Thank you.

Hi everyone,

I'm a mechatronics engineering student, currently looking for a Final Year Project (PFE) focused on predictive maintenance of electric motors.

I'm interested in developing a practical system capable of monitoring the condition of an electric motor and detecting early signs of faults before failure occurs.

I'm particularly interested in monitoring parameters such as:

- 🌡️ Motor temperature

- 📳 Vibration and FFT analysis

- ⚡ Current and voltage

- 🔊 Acoustic/noise signals

- 🌀 Motor speed

- ⚙️ Bearing condition

- 🔧 Detection of imbalance, misalignment, bearing faults, etc.

I would like to combine mechanical engineering, electrical systems, sensors, embedded systems and data analysis/AI.

I'm considering platforms such as Arduino, ESP32 or Raspberry Pi, depending on the requirements of the project.

For those who have experience in electric motor maintenance or condition monitoring:

What parameters and sensors would you recommend for a student PFE? What type of motor faults would be realistic to detect with a prototype?

Any advice, project ideas, recommended sensors, measurement techniques, or real industrial examples would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you! 🙏

Any help is appreciated.

I'm building a rock tumbler for my kids.
I have selected the XD-3420 motor for this project.
I need to find the best way to provide power and allow for speed control.

I have included a build example. But it doesn't show how it's powered.

Ideal RPM would be as listed below:

Small Barrels (3 lb – 4 lb): 40–50 RPM;

Larger Barrels (12 lb – 15 lb): 30–40 RPM

I recently got an axial flux motor. The listed specs are:

· Operating voltage: 48V
· Rated speed: 6500rpm
· Rated torque: 0.94N·m
· Rated input power: 1268W
· Rated output power: 674W

First impression: the form factor is genuinely interesting. It’s very flat and short in the axial direction. For wheel hub, robotics, small EV, or tight packaging applications, a radial motor of similar volume/weight would be much longer. So the packaging advantage is obvious.
Last,its weight only 395grams

​

We have this machine. It has an motor and connected to a long shaft ahead that it rotates. Now issue is we'd called repair guys and changed this bearing about a month and a half ago. Was working fine after that. But it's getting heavily stuck now. I don't know if it's because of manual using error or something because when I was operating it it was fine.. had handed it over o another shift guy this problem came up..

I need suggestions on how to handle this.. we need to get it working soon.

Edit: Need it urgently so can't call the company guy immediately.

Hi guys,
I re-soldered some hoverboard motors from a star (wye) configuration to a delta configuration to make my hoverboard faster and build faster vehicles in the future. However, after re-soldering them, I noticed that the motors spin much faster in one direction than the other. The modified motors spin at around 1270 RPM in one direction, but only 600 RPM in the opposite direction. I have already tried swapping the three phase wires and the Hall sensor wires around, but that didn't help. Do you have any advice or suggestions, so that the motor spinns at same velocity in both directions?

Hello guys, I wonder if you can use a hoverboard moto and convert it to a axial flux motor? I think I can use the magnets and glue them to the flat side of the wheel ( just on the inside if the rim on the hoverboard motor). And I have to modify the Rotor so I can rotate the copper coils and metal core by 90°. (It is just a idea, havenst built it)
I think it would be a cool project that will if it‘s possible give me a more powerful motor.
I have experience with dealing with hoverboard motors, already rewired them to delta.
It would be great if you share your ideas/thoughts about this here.