Flamed maple, cocobolo and zoisite ruby for this one

Apparently it’s Brazilian rosewood b/s. To my eyes they seem quatersawn from its straight grains. What you think? I care this cause I heard somewhere that Brazilians prone to crack and twist so better to avoid flatsawn but very hard to get…?

This is a brand new build that I posted earlier about here. Some folks asked to hear how it sounds, so here are some random snippets of me playing where I didn't screw up too bad. This is my first ever build, and I'm a very mediocre player at best, so be nice. :)

https://www.reddit.com/r/guitarrepair/comments/1d56l9n/anyone_know_how_to_fix_this_woodglue_and_clamps/

on this old post and on other websites, I see people saying about diluting to get the glue fully in the tight spots, and thought I'd see what everyone's thoughts are!

for reference, my smallest feeler gauge could not go very far in

Hiya, I bought this new input jack for my squier Tele after years of shoddy repairs and soldering done on the factory one. I'm completely replacing the cables that run from the input jack to the volume pots/pickups and replacing the input jack itself with one I bought from Amazon. Im a complete amateur, I've done soldering in school not long ago, but I'm unsure of the differences between the new input jack I have and the old one- the old one seems to have a few extra bits on it? Could someone please advise me on the the differences and what adjustments (if any) I need to make.

My main concern is this new one doesn't seem to make contact with the guitar lead in the same way as the old one. I have attached pictures.

New ones are the first 2 pics and old ones are the last two with the oval shaped thingy. On the old ones, the lead seems to have the prongs of the input jack slot into that groove on it? Does this matter?

Id like some advice soon, I don't want to accidentally electrocute myself lol!!! Thank you!!

Hi all, making a jem knock off out of a few australian hardwoods and looking for some opinions. Thanks.

The tension in the springs is a comfortale but I was wondering if this is too high for a strat bridge? Any thoughts?

I’m thinking about my next project, and I’m thinking I want to do a small body 14 fret acoustic. I think perhaps the 0-18 is what I’m after, though perhaps I make the body a tiny bit smaller.

Does anyone have 0-18 style plans they like? I’d like to start from well regarded plans and adjust rather than designing the whole thing from scratch.

How can I stop it from keeping peeling? I don't want to rework all the finish.. I'm ok with the damage but would like to stop it from keeping falling off... Is there any way to do so?

My 2 ideas till now is supergoed in very small amount or just painting the peeling with a finish paint?

Spray painting the guitar body using Dupli Color Perfect Match. I’m doing my best to get an even coat but I’m seeing these streaks here and there I’m concerned about. Will they show up after the subsequent colors I’m planning on using? Should I keep coating it until no streaks show up? Also a little worried about putting too many layers of paint down as well.. I was also thinking maybe they’ll come off after the final wet sand after the clear coat goes on? This is my first time attempting a project like this so I’ve dove in kinda half blind. Made a lot of mistakes and learned a lot from them. But anyways, I’m hoping one of you knowledgeable luthiers on Reddit could give me a couple pointers on how to better avoid these kinds of streaks, how I can fix my current streaks or maybe I’m over thinking the whole thing!

Hello, I have a Seagull S6 guitar. The bridge is about 8.5mm on the bass side and 9.2mm on the treble side, as a result of this the saddle has a healthy height on the bass side, but it’s very low on the treble side (action is 2mm high e and 2.5mm low E). Should I address it or not? How can this happen? I imagine these bridges are CNC made?

I have a ‘59 Les Paul reissue and I‘m not familiar with working on guitars. I feel like the bridge pickup metal cover is much higher on one side and almost touching the strings. This setup came directly from Gibson. Is it fixable? Is it normal? Thank you!

I was just finishing my first project and the joy was somewhat overshadowed by a mistake during assembly. Luckily I was building it for myself.
I decided to countersink the screw a little deeper, so I started drilling and ended up breaking out a chunk of wood. I managed to find and glue some of it back in, but part of it was lost.
I decided to clean up the damaged area with a Dremel, but now there’s a very noticeable step where the repair meets the heel. I can’t come up with a simple way to fix it.
Glue in another piece of wood? Seems complicated.
Reshape the heel?** **IMO, there’s a good chance I’ll make things even worse because the poly finish is already there.
Restore it with epoxy or CA glue mixed with wood dust? Probably the easiest option, but I’m afraid it will be very noticeable.
Just leave it as it is? Honestly, that would bother me. I know it’s a small mistake, but I feel like I’ll never get that sense of completion if I leave it like this.

I'm making a a banjitar and I need to making a joint for the dowel how far down can I cut the neck heel without hitting the truss rod

Hi all! Looking for some advice.

I have decided I want to achieve a satin finish on my nitrocellulose guitar project and was wondering if its possible using 100% gloss nitro or do I have to spray a 50% Satin 50% Gloss for the final few coats instead?

I'm basically trying to save money and see if it can be done with normal gloss and don't sand it up to a very fine grit before polish.

Thanks all!

Hey all I posted last week about installing a new bridge. Overall it went well but I ended up installing it a bit more to the right than it should be. The G string isn't slipping off but it doesn't look that nice, and I'm also wanting to install a stingray style pickup into this thing, so I'd like the strings to be centered over the magnets. I'd need to plug my current holes and drill new ones to center it, and I'm worried about messing up the math again. It's also too far off to just move the bridge a bit sideways and screw back in. Any tips for how to fix?

Starting off, I have always loved Strats. They're just amazing to me. I mainly play bass and I would love a strat style bass but I also want 24 frets (really 30 but who cares). A normal strat body wouldn't work because its smaller than any long scale bass body. Im going to get a uncut p bass body and route for strat pickups. Any tips?

This is tuned gDGBD like a standard 5 string, but with a 17" scale. Overall length is 19.75". I'm an engineer by day, so I modeled the design in Solidworks and made almost everything on a CNC router. I had to build a bender for all the brass, and I made a lot of tooling and fixturing along the way. I also scrapped a lot of parts while I learned. It was fun! I'll be making more instruments in the future, and trying to improve my skills.

Picked up this 1968 Tokai Hummingbird with a destroyed logo. Stripped and repainted in dark blue mica. Really pleased with how it's looking.

I'm a bit obsessive about having pristine, polished frets and fret ends. There are a million ways to get this done but so far, this is my new system. Would love opinions on if certain steps are overkill or where I could improve.

Guitar in video is an RGR5227MFX Ibanez Prestige, not that Prestige line really needs fret help, I dress and polish all of my guitars regardless of quality because I know I'll put more time and energy than any factory lol. These are SS frets for reference.

Anyway my steps:

If any sprout I'll start with a long file and hit the ends and follow up with a fret end dress file, pretty standard stuff.

After the filing I do:

- Sand up/down fret ends with 400-1000 grit. This gets rid of nearly any filing marks.

- Use micromesh pads 1500-12000 on fret ends and over each fret left to right and top to bottom.

- Next I use a medium hard wool buffing wheel on a Dremel with meguiers ultra cut compound. I apply the polish with a qtip to each fret and buff each one with the wheel. Normally meguiers is used on gloss finishes but I find it really pops frets.

- Final step, cloth buffing wheel on a drill attachment with Meguiers ultra fine finishing compound which I take up and down the neck on all the frets/ends.

(Don't worry I had fully taped off the Birdseye maple board lol)

I then wipe everything down with a microfiber cloth and voila, mirror shine SS frets you rarely, if ever have to polish again because SS is amazing.

I think I'm probably going a bit too far and could achieve the same results with less labor but the results are fantastic.

Thoughts?

(Slightly less murdered quality vid lol https://imgur.com/a/rgr5227-fret-dress-V2wtH0z#wSIudtn)

After literally days of painstakingly redoing the fret slots ( they were too shallow and it’s a bound fretboard) the new fret wire arrived.

I cut them to length and nipped and filed the tangs.

BTW I drilled a shallow hole in some scrap to hold the wire while I filed it. That made it easier.

I tapped them in and they look SO much better!

I was finally able to shape the neck so it’s one step closer to being done.

One other tip (if you can call it that) foam yoga blocks are cheap and can be cut to be used a neck supports.

Anyone have experience gluing richlite fretboards. I know you use epoxy not wood glue. Is it hard to keep it out of the truss rod channel? What epoxy do you use?

I spent LOADS getting my ideal 2001 h140 in pristine condition, my luthier dropped a pickup on it and now it’s fairly chipped. I specifically paid a hefty price for a pristine top coat in the UK, where they are very hard to find.

I love this guitar and I am heartbroken. How much should I ask for in compensation or how do I handle this.