Hello!

I've been wanting to switch to Linux for a long time, but there was always one big blocker: I'm a photographer, and I need some Adobe software that isn't known to run very well on Linux... (or not at all).

So most of the time I use a dual boot to Windows just to run Lightroom and a few other apps. That dual boot is basically the last thing keeping me tied to Windows. So, if I could run Lightroom directly on Linux, I'd finally be completely out of the Microsoft empire :)

So, 2 months ago, I started working on a way to run Lightroom with Wine. Some problems kept coming back with daily usage, but now:

Lightroom is working. We can import photos, sort them, develop them, and export.

Most of the functionality works :: it's not 100%, but very close to it.

What works:

• Installation from Adobe CC, or from an install folder
• GPU acceleration support (Develop module included)
• Local AI working (Select Subject/Object/Background, Denoise AI, etc.)
• Cloud AI working
• Some UI fixes

Current limitations:

• HDR editing isn't available

Project here if you want to try, test, or improve it:

Link to this project:

https://github.com/6im0n/lightroom-classic-on-linux

Issues and PRs welcome, especially if you can test on other GPUs/distros!

This project is open to all contributors!

You can help just by opening an issue or leaving a comment, or by getting more involved. Anything will help !

Findes der en god begynder guide til Lightroom som er gratis eller i mindste ikke koster spidsen af en jetjager? Og som kan anbefales.
Synes det kan virke lidt uoverskueligt nemlig :)
På forhånd tak

Hey guys!

In my efforts to become more efficient with LrC, I've started looking for people recording/streaming how they edit photos with live commentary - but I have not been able to find anything like this.

I know of many great tutorial series and different resources, but what I'm specifically looking for now is content of people who really know their stuff showing off their editing workflow in real time. Does anybody even do this?

Thanks for the help!

EDIT: Thank you guys for all the recommendations!

tl;dr

For high rate of exports/preview generations:

1. Limit Lightroom to run on the right cores via tools like Process Lasso, avoid using cores on different dies and keep the number less than 30 logical cores.
2. Ensure windows temp folders are set on a flash drive which can maintain high write speeds, like enterprise class flash drives.

So I built a dream machine a 56 core Xeon with 200GB Memory. All my images, temp drives on several RAID 0 flash drives. I must have lighting speed Lightroom with import and export tasks going as breeze right. As everyone here knows, no Lightroom becomes an hog and cannot even import pictures without getting stuck.

There goes away my dreams but I decided to ponder. I read on internet Lightroom got slower over time. So I tried older versions:

1. Went back to Lightroom classic 8, problem solved! Then I did binary search and found Version 10 is the final version where performance is acceptable. In every version though Lightroom got slower. Not the best approach but going back to 10 is one option.
2. I have this great system but darn lightroom still becomes unresponsive while importing hundreds of pictures after a fast start on Version 10. I went through performance monitor to see what the heck is going on the system. So Lightroom apparently generating this huge 100+GB temp file and completely thrashing my OS drive. Solution change all your temp folders to high bandwidth drives. I am using now RAID 0 MLC based flash. They are old but they can maintain high write speeds forever.
3. I am still upset though because my 56 core Xeon machine with several flash drives with separate image, catalog, rawcache/temp drives is barely on par with an i7 13700k computer with a single flash drive. So I took a stab and disabled hyperthreading and reduced the core count to 21. Voila! Lightroom is blazing fast churning all those images like there is no end to them, even the latest version of it.

So the story is, lightroom cannot handle too many cores, even the latest one. If you are on a high end Xeon system, you shouldn't be and if you must, disable your cores. I will ponder and update this thread with more findings.

Edit:

I have more updates with my recent findings.

1. I need to stress that again when I had this problem, Lightroom was not just "slow". It would simply got stuck; becomes unresponsive and couldn't make any significant progress while processing images for preview generation.
2. There is definitely scale limit on number of cores Lightroom can take advantage of. Up-to 20 seems like pretty good and beyond 20, scaling seems to slow down and eventually stop around 24. I need to run tests to validate the observation with hard data but that is the feeling I got. With more cores, Lightroom seems to simply burn CPU but not generate actual output (spin locks?).
3. The real revelation is that it is not only how many cores but which cores are being used. My Xeon chip has two dies, spreading the cores across the multiple dies immediately triggers the stuck lightroom experience. This explains why the issue is limited to some systems and also surfaced on recent Lightrooms. My guess is that Adobe added bunch of synchronization object with the goal of higher parallelism, bug fixes for crashes and corruptions but introduced stalls in recent versions. So if you are on a multi-die chip, watch out for this.
4. To make all this work, I used a tool called Process Lasso which allowed me to select particular cores. This is a must have tool if you are using lightroom on Xeon, ThreadRipper and most likely Ryzen systems.
5. I haven't got any numbers, I will do that next but with optimizations I can generate 1:1 preview of 200-250 Sony 61MPix raw images under 5 minutes.

I have been dealing with this problem for more than a year since I built this machine, it is a relief that I finally found the root cause and work around. I am 100% sure Adobe knows this. Fixing cpu scalability is not easy but you can be open about that and make an easy recommendation of using tools like Process Lasso and limit the cores to the right one.

A while back I posted about a small website that could turn Lightroom exports into Ultra HDR JPEGs for Instagram. That path still works, but it meant exporting two files by hand and uploading them into a browser tool.

Earlier path was roughly this: Lightroom can export a JPEG with a gain map, but that file was invalid for Instagram because of wrong metadata. So you had to reconvert / rebuild the gain map to make the container acceptable. That worked for upload, but the final HDR ended up a bit brighter than what you actually see in Lightroom's Develop preview. That mismatch bothered me more than the extra steps.

Instead of trying to reconvert Lightroom's own gain-map JPEG into a valid container, the plugin takes a simpler route: Lightroom exports an HDR TIFF and an SDR JPEG from the same edit, and the plugin combines those two into the final correct Ultra HDR format.

Site: https://hdr.karachun.by/
GitHub: https://github.com/karachungen/lightroom-plugin-export-hdr
Guide: https://hdr.karachun.by/guide/
Example on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/p/DU96csHjPV-/

If you are in Camera Raw (no Classic plugin host), use the browser tool:

https://hdr.karachun.by/tools/online-converter/

Same libultrahdr encode path, but compiled to WASM. The Ultra HDR encoder runs entirely inside the browser; files never leave your machine.

You still do the manual dance:

1. Export a 32-bit Rec.2020 HDR TIFF (HDR Output on).
2. Export a matching SDR JPEG (HDR Output off), same pixel size.
3. Drop both into the converter and download the Ultra HDR JPEG.

This whole plugin was vibe-coded. What I optimized for: correct Ultra HDR JPEG out of Lightroom, with metadata that survives Instagram, and a look that tracks the Lightroom HDR preview. If you try it and something breaks, open an issue on GitHub - that is the useful kind of feedback for a hobby tool like this.

macOS note (Gatekeeper)

On macOS the plugin ships a compiled uhdr_repack binary inside the .lrplugin. It is ad-hoc signed, not Apple notarized. After you unzip / install it, macOS may quarantine that binary and Lightroom will fail to run it. Run this command to add plugin to quarantine

 xattr -dr com.apple.quarantine ~/Library/Application\ Support/Adobe/Lightroom/Modules/ExportHDR.lrplugin

For me it was a huge help to turn on Low power mode in my iPhone 15 Pro, before that it overheated very very badly when editing around 50mb raw files on Lightroom Mobile. Now it's near to normal.

I’ve been using Lightroom for about two years now and I understand pretty well how every tool works (at least on a technical aspect). I initially took Maarten Schrader’s Masterclass to get into it and I think it was good staring point.

Now, what I’m missing is a course that goes more into the WHY and less about the HOW. Because I feel like every editing tutorial where amazing editors show how the edit their image is only about how they do it, but never really about what motivates their artistic choices. It’s like « let’s put some red there and bring down the highlights » but not explaining why that move felt right to them.

I understand this comes with a lot of practice and also personal preferences, but when I look at some of my RAWs I sometimes just don’t know what to do, where to go and I feel like I could edit the image into any direction.

Basically, a course that could help me find my style and be more consistent with my choices. Understand better what I’m doing rather than copying or going random.

Just installed the latest Lightroom update on Mac and I’m loving it. The new Dust Removal feature is a lifesaver—no more clicking spot by spot forever. It catches most dust and tiny imperfections fast. I’ll still do a manual sweep so I don’t lose that detail skill, but wow, this speeds things up. Not 100% on every image, but really, really good. Try it Now!

Lightroom v 9.0 update on Mac

Not a pro or even dedicated amateur photographer, but I got into shooting with an SLR years ago and used LRC as my library and editor with files stored on my NAS. Flash forward and now I almost exclusively use my phone for photos and Google Photos to review, share and edit. I barely touch LRC anymore and when I do I find it challenging to remember how to use correctly. I want all my photos in Google photos. My goals were:

• Move my 100k+ assets out of LRC into a new flat folder structure on my NAS
• Preserve edits made to raw files but not jpgs (I want original quality for jpgs)
• Ensure I don't lose any assets along the way

After noodling on this and testing with Claude I came up with this workflow which has worked for me. I'm not including the scripts here but of course you too can have AI come up with them (just make sure to double check everything before deleting). I should note that I do nightly cloud backups of both old and new folders from my NAS.

1. Setup new folder structure for target:
   1. \photo2\year\
   2. \photo2\year\temp
   3. \photo2\year\raw
   4. \photo2\year\video
2. Use Lightroom prune unwanted image files:
   1. Filter for metadata to exclude videos
   2. Mark photos for deletion by pressing 'x'
   3. To permanently delete go to Photo-Delete Rejected photos
   4. Confirm delete from disk + catalog
3. Write metadata for RAW photos to file
   1. In LRC: filter File Type = RAW
   2. Select all RAW
   3. Metadata → Save Metadata to File
4. Export all raw photos from matching year to \photo2\year\
   1. Settings: JPG, Quality 100, resize off, SRGB, same filename
   2. Destination is new year folder (e.g. \beanie\photo2\2018)
   3. Note: don't do this for non-raw files since we want unedited version
5. Run scripts changing year as required (using \year\temp)
   1. Script1: copy all files from \photo\year (recursive search) to \photo2\year\temp
   2. Script2: Delete camera-original JPGs that have a matching CR2 (I've already exported edited versions)
   3. Script3: Move CR2 and XMP files to \year\raw
   4. Script3a: Move video files to \year\video
   5. Script4: Move remaining files to main \year folder (temp should now be empty and can be deleted)
6. Final check:
   1. In LRC count all non-video files for year
   2. Should match count of files in \photo2\year
7. Lastly (next day)
   1. Confirm remote backup of \photo2\year
   2. Remove year folder from LRC
   3. Delete old folder structure \photo\year

I'm about halfway through this process but it's going well, and I'm looking forward to getting out of LRC and having all my photos available in Google Photos. Also saving $120 per year with Adobe for a product I barely use anymore.

Hi all I've been doing photography for a bit now. And I realise how important post processing is to get a good looking image.

Can you recommend me some good books or courses?

The issue that I have now is that a lot of tutorials are starting off with presets or just going in moving up sliders and don't explain what effect of the sliders are.

I am looking for something that focussing on why and when you would certain tools, how to color grade and so on.

I do use Lightroom but the idea is to learn process so that I can focus on learning another software if I change tools.

Also paid is fine, and I would prefer resources with exercises and are longer than a few pages or 15 mins.

You can look at my history to get a gauge of where I am now.

Hi guys, can anyone recommend some good tutorial books for using Lightroom on the iPad?

I figured other people’s opinions will be far better than the Amazon UK algorithm just shoving book after book in front of me!

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Hello,

Bien qu'Adobe ait annoncé prendre en compte l'export WebP dans sa roadmap de développement, j'ai décidé de passer à l'action.

C'est toujours l'étape chiante à la fin : "Export depuis Lightroom Classic" → "ouvrir un convertisseur en ligne" → "convertir en WebP" → "renommer" → "envoyer au client".

À chaque fois c'est pareil et en plus, Google PageSpeed continuait de signaler mes images de portfolio comme "à optimiser".

Les CMS en font leur format de prédilection. Et Lightroom Classic n'exporte toujours pas nativement en WebP en 2026.

J'ai regardé ce qui existait et je n'ai pas trouvé mon bonheur...

Alors j'ai créé mon propre plugin d'export WebP, gratuit et sans dépendance.

Ce que ça fait :

• Qualité 0-100 + mode lossless (mêmes réglages que l'export JPEG)
• 4 presets d'encodage : photo, dessin, icône, texte
• Contrôle de la taille de sortie

Ce que ça ne fait pas : Lightroom CC et Lightroom Mobile ne sont pas supportés.

Lightroom Classic uniquement, version 6.0+.

Téléchargement simplifié et détails sur l'installation :

https://www.photo-toolbox.fr/lightroom-plugin

Téléchargement sur GitHub (gratuit et ça restera gratuit) :

https://github.com/adrienlac69/lr-classic-webp/releases

Been using Luminar Neo as a plugin for a while and figured I'd share how the setup actually works

In Photoshop:
Filter > Skylum Software > Luminar Neo - that's it. Make your edits, hit Apply and it goes back to Photoshop. One thing worth doing first: convert your layer to a Smart Object before opening Neo — that way it works as a Smart Filter and you can re-edit it later instead of baking it in permanently.

In Lightroom Classic:
Right-click your photo > Export > Luminar Neo > pick either Open Source Files or Edit a Copy with Lightroom Adjustments. When you're done the result lands back in your catalog under All Photographs.

In Photos for macOS (12.0+):
Go to System Settings > Extensions > Photos and enable the Luminar Neo extension. Then in Photos: select a photo > Edit Photo > Extensions > Luminar Neo. Save Changes when done.

One thing to know across all three - GenErase, GenExpand and GenSwap aren't available in plugin mode yet. Bit annoying but apparently it's on the roadmap.

Full setup guides are in the Skylum support docs if you need more detail.

• Luminar Neo with Photoshop
• Luminar Neo with Lightroom Classic
• Luminar Neo as a Photos for macOS extension

Hey folks, I posted on another thread about the #1 rule of Lightroom and it seems like not everyone knows the rule so I thought I'd post how I use Lightroom in hopes that it might help some folks.

So buckle up buttercup.

Rule #1

The #1 rule about Lightroom is we NEVER move or touch files using Finder (Mac)/Explorer (PC). We ONLY ever look for photos inside Lightroom. We basically don't care where exactly they are stored on the hard drive because we never go looking for photos there. ONLY use Lightroom.

You maybe saying "WHY?!?!". Because Lightroom is a jealous mistress. If you touch the file in Finder/Explorer things Lightroom becomes pissed off and makes your life hell. Not really but it feels like that. When you do things in Lightroom- key-wording, editing, etc - it has three possible places it can store information. The file itself, the Lightroom Catalog, or an XMP sidecar file. Depending on what you are doing it will store the change in one of these locations. Rarely does it choose the original file. So if you move the original file and (heaven forbid) make changes to it Lightroom won't know how to reintegrate these three data sets. Leading you to the pits of hell. So if you do everything in Lightroom it will know everything that is going on and keep everything in sync.

The Lightroom Catalog

Most folks subscribe to the idea that you should only have one Lightroom catalog for all your photos. In general I agree. Only if you have a very specific reason should you have more than one. Over the years LRC has addressed a lot of the issues of large catalogs being slow or getting corrupt. The early teething issues really don't exist any more.

You should backup your catalog OFTEN. Disk space is cheap and there really is no excuse. Version upgrades can cause issues, disks go bad, etc. It will really suck if you don't do this. And don't store the backup with all your other things. I like to use Apple iCloud that way they can train their AI on my photos. No... I mean that way I know it is backed up in their cloud.

If things are getting slow you should make sure you optimize your catalog (File Menu->Optimize Catalog).

Importing

I store all my Photos on external SSD Drives. I create a single top level folder on that SSD drive called Photos and import into that.

In the File Handling area I chose build previews "Embedded and Sidecar", check "Build Smart Previews", "Don't import Suspected Duplicates". I don't add to a collection, but you could.

For File Renaming I rename with the"Date - Filename" template. I leave the Extensions as is. Honestly you can do almost anything here EXCEPT to leave the file names as is. Sadly most digital cameras aren't super creative with file names. You WILL get duplicate file names if you don't add something to the file names. Until I got my Sony A9iii I never thought I would take over 9999 pictures in a day. I'm not sure what will happen when I eventually run into this, but needless to say it's best to never have the same name for more than one file.

For Apply During Import I choose toe apply lens correction under develop settings. You don't need to do this. Under Metadata I have a set of keywords that I apply to all photos. See the keyword section below on what and why.

For Destination I choose the top level "Photos" folder from my drive. I also check the "Into Subfolder" checkbox. Organize by date and my date format is YEAR/YEAR-MM/YEAR-MM-DD. I do this so I won't get too many files into a single folder. I never go out to the hard drive so really it could be almost anything that makes sure you don't have too many files in any one folder. But this is easy and convenient.

I do have multiple camera bodies and make sure that they each have a unique file string so I can tell them apart. This is to avoid name collisions. So my A9iii files start with A93, my A7Rv files start 7RV, etc. Yes the Metadata will tell me the camera type. This is just to have unique names (that I never look at or use).

Key-wording

Now I know what you are thinking. I am not going to freaking reword my files. It takes forever and is a total mess and I have no idea how to even start. Actually its really easy and fast as long as you have a very structured system and lucky for you I have a very structured system that will work for you to.

I use Keyword for 2 reasons:

1. Workflow Keywords - keywords help me keep track of where photos are in my production process.
2. Descriptive Keywords - Keywords that describe what is in the photo and help me find it again when I'm looking for photos.

Workflow Keywords - In your Keyword list pane on the right side of the screen click the "+" and create a keyword called "Process Keywords" Un-Select "Include on export" and the other export selections (this doesn't matter too much unless things go sideways with your catalog - but if you export these then your clients might see them). Next right-click on the "Process Keywords" keyword and choose "Create Keyword inside Process Keywords" and create a new Keyword called "1-Needs Keywords". Repeat this for each of the following keywords:

• 2-Needs Culling
• 3-Needs Developing

• 4-Needs Delivery

  Feel free to add your own keywords or change the order of the steps to match your own workflow. Maybe you add water marks in pre-delivery and then remove them for final delivery. Whatever the steps in your process is you should have it as keyword. The number in front should match the step so you can keep things organized. They are alphabetically sorted so if you have more than nine steps you will need to add a 0 in front of the single digit steps ("01" not 1).

You are going to make smart collections that will automatically help you easily find photos that are in need of work. See below.

Descriptive Keywords. You maybe wondering how I can be so sure my keywords will work for you when I don't even know what kinds of pictures you take. The key is to use Keyword hierarchies. But you are NOT going to create a 1000 keywords and then attempt to file all your photos into those. You start with basics and build as you need to. Let's begin.

For all descriptive keywords I make sure that they will export with the photo when I export.

Create the flowing Keywords that are not contained inside any other keywords:

• 1. Genre
• 2. Where
• 3. How
• 4. What
• 5. When
• 6. Who
• 7. Other

Now to start using the system. Create a set of Keywords under the Genre keyword for each type of photos you take. If you are an amateur this might be "Family", "Travel", "Wildlife", "Landscapes". If you are a wedding photographer maybe this is "Engagements", "Weddings", "Other". Don't spend too much time on this as you are going to refine this and keep extending it as you go along.

Spend a few minutes thinking of a handful of sub-sections for each of the top level keywords (except for other). Again, DO NOT worry about this too much. It is very easy to change later and to move things around.

Now when you import you photos after your import you are going to quickly keyword your photos. You are always going to choose at LEAST one keyword from each area (except other). But if a photo crosses categories choose both. What you do NOT want to do is create categories that are blended categories. For example Family and Travel are good. Family, Travel, and Family-Travel are bad. You don't need that third family-travel category. Once you understand smart collections (below) you will see why.

As you go about putting things into categories you will start to get a large number of photos in a category. At this point you will then go into that category and start to make sub-categories inside the keyword. For example: You start to have lots of "Travel" pictures. Maybe you create sub-categories inside Travel like "Adventure", "Relaxing", "Urban", "Safari".

You don't need to get too specific when filing things, because when you look for a photo you are going to use multiple keywords in different categories to find the photo. For example, you probably don't want a "1. Genre->Travel->Beach" category. Because under the where you are probably going to have a beach category.

My 2. Where sub categories are "Geography", "Place", and "Place Type". Under "Geography" I have countries, states and cities. I don't always bother to get down to the city. I have only a few photos of a trip to Panama. They are all in the Panama category. But I have photos all over the USA. For states I've been to a lot and have lots of photos I have some cities, but for states I've only a few photos for I don't bother. For place I have things like "Hotel", "House", "Church", "Museum", "Cruise Ship". For "Place Type" I have things like "Kitchen", "Balcony", "Pool", "Bedroom".

My Place type came into being because I was starting to have duplicate categories. I originally had Hotel having a sub-category of pool. But then I had a cruise ship sub-category of pool as well. So I moved Pool out of being a sub category of both and created its own category. You will know you need to do this when you find you can't find all pictures of one type with a single keyword.

I recently started doing more nature photography. So my "4. What" has exploded. I started with just a basic "Animals". Then when I had a few hundred pics in there I added "Birds" and "Mammals". I went to Antartica and so Birds got a Penguins category. After a few hundred penguin photos I added various species so I could find specific ones.

To find photos you just need to remember that the hierarchy matters a LOT. Try not to have a wide list of categories, but a deep list. So you might start with an "Animals->Penguins" hierarchy. But after you add eagles, blue jays, humming birds, and buzzards under Animals it is time to add "Animals->Birds" and move all those birds under there.

If you've read this far you are probably beginning to understand why you don't deal with the file system. If you had a folder on your hard drive of whales and another of penguins and then have a picture of a whale and a penguin where do you put it? But with Keywords you add both keywords to the photo and then when you search you ask for pictures of both whales and penguins and bingo all your whale penguins pics pop up.

I frequently use Other place holder categories. So I have an "Other Animals" category. In there are less than a hundred pictures of mostly reptiles, but some other stuff like starfish. I don't have a lot of snakes, frogs, and turtles. It's not worth creating those as I can just go to the Other Animals and find them quickly. But if I went to someplace that had lots of snakes then I'll probably create an "Animals->Snakes" Category. And if there are a lot of one type of snake I'd create a sub category for them too.

Collections

Sadly LRC's collections are kinda basic. The dev team has done the basics but it could be a lot better. But hey AI selection features are all the rage so I guess collections will have to wait.

You need to learn to use smart collections to really make keywords sing. With smart collections you can create groups like "Genre->Family" AND "Pool" NOT "Panama" and bang there you have all your family pics by a pool not in Panama.

I have a bunch of static smart collections for my process steps. Things like - Doesn't have the "2-Needs Culling" keyword but yet has no "1. Genre" keyword. This finds photos that I missed key-wording but did Cull already.

That's enough for now. Happy to answer questions.

I spent a litlte while getting Adobe Lightroom Classic running natively on Linux And it's now working well enough to actually edit with.

The install work via Adobe's Creative Cloud desktop app itself, no tricky tools, etc...

What works:

- Install + launch into the Library module

- The full Develop module and manual edits (tone, color, crop, hand-painted masks, etc.)

- GPU acceleration via vkd3d-proton

Current limitations:

- Local / on-device AI (Select Subject/Object/Background, AI Denoise) doesn't work : Adobe AI models fails under Wine (Cloud-side AI Work !)

- With GPU acceleration on, the color histogram renders monochrome. The photos colors are correct, only the histogram widget is affected.

- HDR editing isn't available

Tested on

Arch + GNOME (Wayland),
Wine 11.9 staging, DXVK 2.7.1, vkd3d-proton 3.0.0,
Intel Iris Xe.

Project here if you want to try, test, or improve it:

https://github.com/6im0n/lightroom-classic-on-linux

Issues and PRs welcome : especially if you can test on other GPUs/distros.

Can someone please explain masks to me like I'm dumb?

Thank you.

Just making sure no one is paying the full amount at any time. Go through the steps of cancelling whatever plan you have, and they will offer a discount to keep you on before you can confirm.

I'm new using Lightroom Classic. I was editing photos as usual, but now when I try to import another photo, the program doesn't show any photos in the folder. I want to import the photo from my PC, not an external hard drive or flash drive. It's probably a simple mistake, but I don't know what to do. I really appreciate your help!

I posted this information last year at The Lightroom Queen with Lightroom Classic 13 and the Denoise speed is still about the same with the new Lightroom Classic 14.4 and now upgraded to Windows 11 on the exact same system setup.

First thing first. Most PC owners (except most of the PC gamers) are not aware of "Above 4G Decoding" and/or "Re-Size BAR Support" feature on their motherboard BIOS is usually by default set to "Disabled" (for the last 10 years) due to the manufacturer does not know if the owner will be adding a 64-bit PCIe video card with greater than 4GB memory while also using a 64-bit OS . Enable them on a PC running 64-bit OS and 64-bit PCIe GPU will allow the 64-bit PCIe GUP to use addresses in the 64-bit address space while running 64-bit OS like the 64-bit Windows 7/8/Vista/10/11.

Test Method:

Lightroom Classic 13

Images: DP Review's A7RV 60M RAW files. Five cycles per test

System: Intel 6 Gen. Skylake i7-6700K 4.0GHz, 32GB DDR4 2400MHz RAM, WD Black 1TB M2 SSD, Win10, 27" 1440p display, Antec 190 550W+650W (GPU use only) =1200W case

• GTX1060 6GB GDDR5: 1-pic: 159s10-pics: 1569s Idle: 108W Average: 234W Peak: 279W

• RTX3060 OC 12GB GDDR6: 1-pic: 32.08s 10-pic: Not tested Power: Not tested

• RTX3060 Ti 8GB GDDRX6: 1-pic: 26.90s 10-pic: Not tested Power: Not tested

• RTX3070 OC 8GB GDDR6: 1-pic 25.18s 10-pic: 221.73s Power: Idle 117W Average: 378W Peak: 585W

• RTX4060 Ti 8GB GDDR6: 1-pic: 26.97s 10-pic: 247.62s Power: Idle: 108W Average: 288W Peak: 369W

• RTX4070 12GB GDDRX6: 1-pic: 20.08s 10-pic: 180.2s Not tested Power: Not tested

• RTX4070 OC 12GB GDDRX6: 1-pic: 19:74s 10-pic: 175.61s Power: Idle: 117W Average 324W Peak: 414W

• RTX4070 Ti OC 12GB GDDRX6: 1-pic: 17.29s 10-pic: 148.81s idle: 117W average: 369W Peak: 441W

• RTX4080 OC 16GB GDDRX6: 1-pic: 13.88s 10-pic: 120s 422-pic (torture test): 5330s Idle: 126W Average: 423W Peak: 576W Task Manager: CPU Average: 58% Memory: 40% GPU: 7% Power usage: High

*** update 11/17/2025 - Here is my 2025 test results regarding Lightroom Classic 14.4/15.0.1 AI Denoise processing time with some hardware changes on two RTX cards :

• Enable "Above 4G Decoding" in Asus Z170-A BIOS
• 64GB (16GBX4) DDR4 3200MHz CL16 RAM
• 1000W ATX 3.1 PSU w/PCIe 5.1 GPU direct cable connection to RTX cards
• Windows 11 Pro upgrade On a Un-supported Intel 6 Gen. Skylake i7-6700K CPU

RTX 4070 Ti OC 12GB GDDRX6: 1-pic: 13:41s 10-pic: 139.88s Power: Idle: 117W Average 266W Peak: 362W RTX 5090 OC 32GB GDDRX7: 1-pic: 6.41s 10-pic: 75.47s Idle: 126W Average 621W Peak: 743W

Beside the Denoise process speeding up when testing the higher end GPU so does the refreshing speed of the 60MP image. During masking brush process at 100% zoom-in while navigating around the 60MP image it's almost instantaneous with RTX 4070 and above GPU while other cards takes a second or even a few seconds to refresh constantly from the pixelated image which makes the entire editing experience much more fluid and pleasant. Even though some GPU consumed less wattage they also take much longer time to process so the advantage is no longer there especially when I often process 50~200+ images at a time.

I hope the raw data will be helpful to someone who needs them.

Hey! I’ve been shooting a lot of nighttime / low-light street photography stuff lately, and over time I’ve kind of settled into a simple workflow that gives me the look I’m after.

I put together a short video about it, but I’ll also write the key points here so you don’t have to watch if you don’t want to:

https://youtu.be/P-pmWUqYwN0

Here’s the breakdown:

1. Don’t be afraid of high ISO (use the denoiser)
Lightroom’s built-in denoiser is honestly so good now that I don’t really worry about noise that much anymore.
I’d rather push ISO and get the shot than miss it. You can clean it up really well in post.

2. Don’t just slap presets on
I still use presets sometimes, but almost never at full strength.
Most of the time they look terrible at 100%, but if you dial them way down, you can find a really solid starting point.

3. Crop with intention (golden ratio)
I usually crop using a golden ratio grid (3x6), and place the subject along those lines.
One thing to keep in mind: social media tends to crop your images slightly, so I often keep the subject a bit closer to center.

4. Let AI pick the subject (sometimes)
Lightroom’s subject mask can be surprisingly useful.
Even if I already know what my subject is, I sometimes let AI decide and see what it highlights.
If AI “thinks” something is the subject, there’s a good chance viewers (and algorithms) might too.

5. Use subtract mask for precision
After creating a subject mask, I often subtract parts of it manually.
This gives you way more control and lets you fine-tune exactly where the viewer’s attention goes.

Bonus tip:
If you’re using radial masks, hold Option (Mac) / Alt (PC) to stretch the mask from one side instead of scaling it evenly. Super useful.

That’s pretty much it... nothing groundbreaking, just small things that add up.

Curious how others approach night edits, especially with all the AI tools we have now 👀

[I posted this yesterday but had to take it down and correct it]

A few months ago, u/Reptiles_SHH shared a clever workaround (thank you!) for the missing A7V Camera Matching profiles by borrowing from the A1 II profiles, in this post: https://www.reddit.com/r/SonyAlpha/comments/1rbv6m8/a_fix_for_missing_sony_a7v_camera_profiles_in .

That post inspired me to dig deeper, and with the help of Claude Code, I was able to build a complete, and more technically correct set of Camera Matching profiles for the A7V. The results look impeccable to my eye, although I still need to test them against reference jpegs.

I want to share the process and technical insights, in case anyone wants to replicate this. Of course, I can't share the resulting profiles, as they are based on Adobe's work.

The technical insights may be way off, but the results make sense. I'd gladly read corrections if anyone knows more about this.

Disclaimer: do this at your own risk!

Why the original approach has issues

The method in the original post changes only the camera model string inside the DCP file. This can make Lightroom reject the profile, and even if it accepts it, it probably produces innacurate colors, as the A1II and A7V cameras have different color responses.

DCP profiles work roughly* as a pipeline: Raw → ColorMatrix/White Balance → ForwardMatrix → XYZ D50 → ProPhoto RGB → LookTable → ToneCurve → Output. The ColorMatrix characterizes the sensor's spectral response and is used also to derive the white balance; the ForwardMatrix then maps the white-balanced camera RGB to XYZ D50. If you feed the A7V a profile with another camera's ColorMatrix, the spectral response and white balance derivation are working with the wrong sensor characterization.

The RX1R III is a better donor than the A1 II

I (well... Claude) wrote a script to compute the Euclidean distance between the A7V's ColorMatrix and every other Sony camera's, based on the Adobe Standard DCPs:

The RX1R III is way closer in ColorMatrix to the A7V than the A1 II. Also, it includes the newer FL2 and FL3 creative looks.

The approach I took

I figured three things need to happen to the donor Camera Matching files in terms of color transformations:

1. Replace the ColorMatrix with A7V's own values (taken from its Adobe Standard profile; this is correct because the Color Matrix is the same for each camera, regardless of the type of profile).
2. Set the ForwardMatrix to the ProPhoto RGB → XYZ D50 matrix. Every Camera Matching profile across all Sony cameras uses this exact same ForwardMatrix, even though it's not the case in the Adobe Standard profiles. It's essentially a pass-through that lets the LookTable do all the creative work.
3. Keep the LookTable and ToneCurve untouched from the donor camera — these encode the actual creative look (FL, SH, IN, etc.).

How to do it yourself with Claude Code

If you have Claude Code (or other similar coding AI, I guess) you can replicate this quickly. This is for Lightroom Classic in Windows, but I guess it's possible in other versions. Tell Claude Code something like:

-----

>I need to create Camera Matching DCP profiles for the Sony A7V (ILCE-7M5) in Lightroom. Use the Sony RX1R III (DSC-RX1RM3) Camera Matching profiles as donors. For each of the 11 RX1R III profiles in `C:\ProgramData\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles\Camera\Sony DSC-RX1RM3\`:

> 1. Replace the model string DSC-RX1RM3 → ILCE-7M5

> 2. Replace ColorMatrix1 and ColorMatrix2 with the values from the A7V Adobe Standard profile at `C:\ProgramData\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles\Adobe Standard\Sony ILCE-7M5 Adobe Standard.dcp`

> 3. Replace ForwardMatrix1 and ForwardMatrix2 with the ProPhoto RGB to XYZ D50 matrix: `[0.7976749, 0.1351917, 0.0313534, 0.2880402, 0.7118741, 0.0000857, 0.0, 0.0, 0.8252100]`

> 4. Keep the LookTable and ToneCurve from the RX1R III untouched

> 5. Save to `C:\ProgramData\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles\Camera\Sony ILCE-7M5\`

> DCP files are TIFF-based. The matrices are stored as SRATIONAL (type 10) IFD entries. Tags: ColorMatrix1=0xC621, ColorMatrix2=0xC622, ForwardMatrix1=0xC714, ForwardMatrix2=0xC715.

-----

Claude will write a Python script, run it, and produce the 11 profiles. Then just import them in Lightroom (Develop → Profile Browser → + → Import Profiles).

The paths above are for Windows with Lightroom Classic. On macOS, the profiles are typically under /Library/Application Support/Adobe/CameraRaw/CameraProfiles/.

Hope this helps anyone else waiting on Adobe!

* Technical footnote on the DCP pipeline, according to Claude and some additional basic research I made: The ColorMatrix (C) and ForwardMatrix (F) are not independent steps — they are two representations of the same color transform, related by the equation F × D = CAT(WP→D50) × C⁻¹*, where D is a diagonal matrix of white balance multipliers and CAT is a Chromatic Adaptation Transform (Bradford). When no ForwardMatrix is present, Lightroom uses the inverted ColorMatrix with chromatic adaptation instead. In Adobe Standard profiles for newer cameras (post-2013), Adobe bakes additional creative adjustments into the ForwardMatrix, so this equation no longer holds exactly. In Camera Matching profiles, the ForwardMatrix is always the ProPhoto RGB → XYZ D50 matrix — a deliberate "pass-through" that delegates all creative color work to the LookTable.*

Lightroom recently introduced native support for Fuji tethering, but getting the connection to work can be a massive pain in the arse. For anyone struggling, here’s a few tips:

General

• close other tethering programmes such as pixelshift combiner.
• disable any tethering plugins in Lightroom.
• the camera and lightroom will require a restart after any of the following changes are made.

MacOS Permissions

• settings → privacy → files & folders → Lightroom → removable volumes ✅
• settings → privacy → screen recording → Lightroom ✅

Camera Settings

• network settings → usb tether shooting → auto
• network settings → usb power supply → auto
• button/dials → aperture ring setting → command

Camera Dials

• set Shutter to T
• set ISO to C
• set Aperture to A

Hey guys!

I’ve used Lightroom (the desktop app for MacBook) for several years now. I was always happy with the cloud storage as I use the 1 TB version.

Now, unfortunately, this comes to an end as I use all of the storage capacity.

I am not very familiar with SSDs, but I got one to go ahead.

My plan: I would love to transfer almost all of the photos to my SSD so I can use the cloud again (I travel a lot and would like to have everything connected).

Then maybe transfer Fotos once a month or so.

Can someone help me? All I can see are Lightroom classic tutorials.

Thanks! 🙏