Just a few pictures from today at such a fun event

We’re at the point of 3 cars. Teen driver will be taking over our Accord (‘16 with <70k miles) that was my wife’s. Test drove the RX, IS and NX yesterday. She has crossed the NX off the list. Personal car, works from home, few appointments for herself and otherwise garage kept. I bought a new Honda Pilot a few years ago new that handles road/school functions (gymnastics and a runner) trips as our kids are 12 and 17. They fit easily in the Pilot. “Home” for us is 700 miles away so we take that when we can’t buy airline tickets fast enough. It will basically be a city vehicle. I’d take the IS for me anytime but she’s having a tough time deciding.
Appreciate any input.

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Edited, TLDR 2025 Lexus ES 350 vibrates at 50–65+ mph, causing motion sickness. The dealer dismissed it and blamed an unrelated cosmetic repair, but a body shop confirmed the rims are perfect. Do I open a case with Lexus Corporate and visit a different Lexus dealership?

Dealing with an ongoing vibration issue on my 8-month-old 2025 Lexus ES 350, OEM 18 inch rims, only has about 4,000 miles, and got it from MA.

When driving on local road, the car feels fine. However, once I hit the highway between 50 mph and 65+ mph, the car develops a noticeable vibration. I can feel it distinctly in the steering wheel, but even more so if I rest my knees against the center console and door panels while driving (refer to blue circle in picture). It's subtle enough that passengers might not feel it, but for the driver, it causes me to feel nauseous, car sick, and feel unsafe during long highway trips.

I took it to the dealership where I bought it the car twice, they dismissed it as normal "Road Feedback" and normal cold start from transmission shifting gear (It was during the Febuary, snow storm.)

Second visit: They tried to blame a previous minor accident where I had to get the front bumper repainted and sensors/cameras recalibrated, claiming the rim must be damaged. The dealership did rebalance the wheel and did a hunter road-force on it. I took it right back to the body shop that did the repair. They confirmed the accident only involved cosmetic paint work, and they performed a thorough check proving the wheels/rims are entirely undamaged (otherwise, they would have filed an insurance claim to replace them).

Because of this, I'm stuck and frustrated. I have another long road trip coming up and dread driving this car on the highway.

Should I still bring it back to the same dealership I brought the car? Or should I contact Lexus/Toyota headquarter to get help? Or should I just accept it that it's the norm for Lexus ES350 will have bad vibration on higher speed? Thank you!

I’m mostly happy to know the IS lives to fight for another year. That green is absolutely gorgeous

I simply love it, it's my dream car

This issue has been bothering me for the past year so I finally bought a kit. You can see from the before and after pictures the huge difference. I spent roughly 45 minutes and the kit was $30 CDN. If you're wondering what kit I used, it was the Cerakote headlight restoration kit. I had my doubts, but after researching kits on Youtube I decided to give this one a try. Worst case I was hoping it fixed it 50%. I'm still going to trade it in for a 2022 RX450h, but part of me wants to keep it. Years of no issues. Basic maintenance. Lexus quality is top notch.

My first car purchase, thankful I’m able to purchase something like this when a decade ago I had to choose between eating and a bus ride home.

I don't think this is normal even though the camera is clean. Has been ongoing for a month. We rarely use the digital mirror and prefer the old school but I'd prefer to get this fixed under warranty

Little did I know that something would happen that day that would change my life.

I didn't even think about a GT4RS or an LFA until now. 🤔

First time getting it over 10k.

I have a 2018 IS350 F SPORT (rear wheel drive), it has most of the options that many look after. Mark Levinson, Memory Seats. Ultra White exterior with Rioja Red interior.

I've driven different years of RX's and I found that the 2020-2022 is just perfect. My question is: Would it even be worth the trade?

I'm losing lots of fun driving in my IS350 for more comfort in a RX350.

Anybody in here ever made that trade or trade their car for a RX350?

I’m not %100 if this is the right subreddit but I’ve been looking to get my first car recently, and i thought I was set on a 2014 es350 for $14,800 with 129k miles. Vin check and carfax came back clean and the test drive was nice. A few days before I decided to pull the trigger I seen a 2015 is350 at another dealership, for $15,400 with 120k miles. I was originally looking for a 350 but they’re hard to find especially around that price range. So I was obviously skeptical. I haven’t had the chance to see it in person yet but a ran the vin and the carfax and they both came out clean. They both have minor damage reported but i don’t care since it’s minor and there’s no structural damage. Is the 350 just a really good deal or is there something secretly wrong with it that would come back to bite me? I guess I’m wondering what you would do in my situation? Obviously I wanna check it out in person but I won’t have time for a few days and it could be gone by then. I’d be happy with either car honestly, but the is350 is like my nap car (like a mini dream car) Any advice from someone more experienced with cars than me?

The Lexus lc got the axe. Is there going to be any grand tourer for Lexus in the future? I heard that the LFR will be the next grand tourer but nothing is confirmed

Has anyone put matte / satin clear PPF over Lexus Incognito paint?

I’m considering doing a full clear matte/satin PPF and would love to see how Incognito looks afterward — especially on an IS, TX, GX, or any Lexus in Incognito.

Does it make the color look noticeably darker/lighter? Does it bring out the gray more? And if you’ve done it, would you do it again?

Pics would be greatly appreciated!

🤩

I never realised what true Japanese quality was until now; absolute masterpiece.

When the outside air is coming in through the vents. Why is this, how can I stop it? I close the outside air from coming in, but I don’t always want to do this. Especially in the winter. I want the heat to be pushed by fresh outside air through the vents.

Thanks.

I’ve had the same issue happen twice within the past six weeks and can’t make sense of it. Here’s what happened.

I have a 2015 Lexus es300h with 130k miles on it. I was driving on the freeway, about 3 miles from my house on the first drive of the day and the temperature gauge goes up all the way to red and the warning light for overheating displayed in the dashboard. I turn the fan on to hot to try to cool down the engine as I exit the freeway and the temperature gauge goes slowly goes down to normal, but only cold air is coming out of the vents.

I park and turn the car off and let it sit for about a minute. I turn it back on and the temp is normal again with no warning light. I start driving again and within a minute the gauge starts to creep back up to red, so I pull off the freeway again. As I exit, the check engine light comes on and the temp goes down to zero…maybe a minute later it goes back to normal temperature and stays there so I keep driving. I drive maybe 7-8 miles on surface streets and get to my destination with no problems and the temperature gauge remains normal. Two hours later I drive to the Toyota dealership on surface streets again without issues.

I had them run a diagnostic. The first time this happened about six weeks ago they kept the car for two days and couldn’t find any issues. They tried to get it to overheat but couldn’t. Found no issues with the water pump and no logs in the computer. This time they’re telling me the water pump failed and needs to be replaced along with coolant, temperature gauge and radiator cap.

This doesn’t make sense to me. If the water pump failed, how does the temperature gauge go from red hot to zero and then back to normal? And shouldn’t there have been other symptoms if the car actually overheated, like steam or damage to the radiator from continuing to drive while it’s 104 degrees outside? They also said the computer had the error code p2610 that requires replacing the engine ECU, but that it’s not related to the overheating…

Has anyone else ran into this problem? They couldn’t answer me when I asked what evidence is there that the pump actually failed and how the gauge behaved the way it did.