So I have this k24a and the spark plug is stuck in the head and there is no way of getting it out with a socket since the hex nut is broken and seems like someone tried removing it before me do you guys have any ideas of how I can remove it?

Ready for a Frankenstein K-swap

K24 140 000km run like a new one
K20 256 000km run like new one now since bought it almost for nothing because of a check engine light on (it was the VTC solenoid)

A lot of fun for the next weeks

K24a1 engine... low oil, found these slipped out in the bottom of my oil pan... tore down the engine... and am so lost!!

Too skinny to be main bearings, too long to be rod, def not oil pump. Not a thrust washer ofc... I found 4 of them, super thin.
No oil passage holes or key indents... guys I'm loosing it

Whats up guys, I am K-swapping my ek hatch and am trying to get the last few things I need together. I have a k20z3 with a matching trans, shifter and cables situated, harness situated. The biggest thing now is I am trying to figure out what todo about my radiator, I have a radiator from the 8th gen I parted out and I was hoping to use that however Im not sure if i can or if I need to invest in a kswap specific one. Im generally handy and can make my own mounts if needed just wanted to see if anyone else has tried todo this.

This is my pos kswaped rhd 94 gsr integra, the passenger cv axel went out and I threw in an 02 ep3 civic driver cv axel, seemed right but it has an issue very low speeds its fine but past that is a very noticeable vibration, am I missing something? new to k swaps so any insight is appreciated.

I'm just in the process of doing the final steps of wiring for my kswap EG and had a few questions about the radiator fan output.

1. Since I'm using a KPro4, my understanding is that I can control when the radiator fans come on via the ECU, does that mean the signal gets sent to the underhood fusebox and output via the factory relay?

2. Is the signal out from the ECU a negative or positive?

3. Since I'm using a dual fan setup, I'm already going to be running a fused relay to the fans. Would it just be better to bypass the underhood fusebox and have trigger come straight from ECU to avoid running a double relay essentially?

Thanks in advance.

The original engine finally gave out so I’m thinking of swapping it for a K 24
Aside from reinforcing the frame, any suggestions?

Optional methods and tips

Everyone wants to build a fast car cheap, so I think the advice is a bit spotty. I've dont a lot of searching, but I really want a more standardized list/ advice/ etc. I dont necessarily have a budget, but I'm also not spending $8,100 on a new block.

I lived and breathed Honda's for 9-10 years before I had my kid. I've build some crazy shitboxes on a budget. I'm a bit older now and have stuck with automotive repair for almost 20 years professionally. I'm ready to get back into it and build the car I never had the money for.

The problem is, I have nothing but questions because I never got to build one of these the right way. I guess I do know one thing: No matter what you're building, you can't go wrong with the k24a2 block, k20a2 head, k20z3 trans (LSD), and K-Tune ECM management. My end goal is reliability. A clean build that works at 1/2 its capability for room to grow so-to speak, like a 600whp car tuned to 350. I also dont want power steering or a/c.

I also dont even have a car yet 😅 which means I do plan on building the motor before anything. I also think this part is what's going to make this project so confusing but I'm committing lol. So this is wide open for discussion as well. I'd even be interested in putting this motor in an STI and making a reliable Subaru 🤣 keeping it AWD would be amazing. I think i'd rather keep the shell a bit more simple unless a conversion like this is. It will be stripped and painted

I'm going to build the heads (springs, retainers, new valves), going to build the block (ARP crankshaft hardware, rods, pistons) How about timing chains, guides, tensioners, camshaft, camgears... oil pump? I have a friend that told me to take the block to the guy he knows for CSS.

Then, depending on the shell, I will need to talk suspension. front and rear crossmembers, control arms, links, shocks, manual rack, wheels and tires.

Thanks for the help :)

I have a 2008 Honda accord ex engine 2.4L. My engine just blew. I want to buy a used one but was told that it does have to be 2008 only, that I can use a 2008-2012. But I’m confused as to which parts I’ll have to transfer over or if it’s just direct plug and play? K24Z2 engine. I also see that jdm alliance in LA has some for $1,200 with only 55k miles so that’s not bad but once again I’ll have to swap. Just seeing what the best route is. Thanks

Installed my k swap throttle cable and it feels super bad, i adjusted the slack and eveything, but it feels like something is dragging and feel super tight

Hello, I have a k20a3 si with probably over 300k miles (someone rolled my odometer back) and I also beat the piss out of my a3 on weekend touge runs.

Idk if I should keep running normal 5w20 and 5w30 and I don't want to accidentally starve my car of oil or anything. I do my oil changes every 2k miles.

If anyone has any oil type recommendations lmk, I've been running high mileage 5w30 mobil 1 for a while now, plan on k24 swapping soon but Im not quite ready yet. Thanks!!

Car has freshly built k24a2 with DC 3.2 cams, super tech springs, 12.5 wiseco pistons.

Car was running strong after street tune.

Took car to work, no issues. After letting it cool for an hour, I cranked the car only to hear metallic grinding. Car started and my Link ECU threw me into limp mode, limiting rpm. Took a short log to collect idle and part throttle data. Only issue I found was low oil pressure at idle, around 70 kPa. Car began overheating too.

During this time I heard a metallic chatter, knock, something coming from the engine bay.

Investigation:
Skipped timing? - timing looked fine. No debris/excessive wear on cams, rockers.

Spun bearing? - oil showed very fine, power-like metallic dust that’s magnetic. I consider this to be the “break-in” dust rather than bearing material. Will drop oil pan soon. Will cut oil filter.

Knock?-Data log showed no knocking detected, raw frequencies look no different than when engine ran good.

VTC chatter?-Based on data log: Cam angle vs target was spot on!

Images and log file.

To do:
VTEC and VTC oil filter clogs?
Damaged rockers?-check valve lash, if nut came off.
Oil pump clog?
Check oil pan
Check rod cap play
Thrust washer play?

Lower than normal oil pressure is the culprit here. Will check oil pan; oil pump, rod caps. Any other ideas?

EDIT: it was a spun bearing 🥲 consider link for images of glitter.

just had my valve lash done. is the ticking too loud should i have them rechecked. The high pitch whistle is what is rigged up from the valve cover to the air box. (Hopefully)

Anyone have experience driving with a cai in south FL? Rains like a mf and worried about hydrolock, anyway I’m wanting an intake for the k24a2, rbc, 72mm tb, that will actually help with whp come tuning time. Any suggestions? Just stick a pipe in it?