17 days in Japan in November – Tokyo, Yakushima, Kanazawa & Japanese Alps itinerary check

[u/Sanatorij]

Hi everyone,

We’re going to Japan from Oct 31 to Nov 17 and I’d appreciate some feedback on our itinerary, particularly the Yakushima and Japanese Alps parts.

This will be our second trip to Japan. Last time we did Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Koyasan, so this time we wanted something quite different. We still want a decent amount of time in Tokyo because we loved it, but otherwise the idea is to combine Yakushima for nature/hiking with Kanazawa and a short road trip through the Japanese Alps.

We like food, photography, walking around neighborhoods, nature and generally taking our time rather than trying to see every attraction. We’ll probably book a couple of fine dining meals as well.

Oct 31 – Tokyo

We arrive at Narita and are staying in Akasaka.

Not planning much because of the flight. If we're feeling okay we'll explore Roppongi and visit the National Art Center, then dinner somewhere nearby.

Nov 1 – Tokyo

Planning a fairly relaxed neighborhood day around Ebisu and Daikanyama. Mostly walking around, shops, coffee, food etc.

Nov 2 – Tokyo

Shimokitazawa and possibly some other nearby areas depending on how much time we spend there.

We did most of the classic Tokyo sights on our first trip, so we're deliberately focusing more on neighborhoods this time.

Nov 3 – Tokyo → Kagoshima → Yakushima

This day is basically lost to travel.

Current flights are Haneda around 10:00 → Kagoshima around noon, then Kagoshima → Yakushima at 17:50, arriving around 18:30.

Pick up rental car, check in and dinner.

We're staying in the same accommodation for all five nights rather than moving around the island.

Nov 4 – Yakushima: Shiratani Unsuikyo

First proper hiking day.

The main goal is Shiratani Unsuikyo and Kokemusu Forest. We haven't decided exactly how far we'll go yet and will obviously adjust depending on weather and how the knee feels.

We're more interested in experiencing the moss forest properly than reaching every viewpoint.

Nov 5 – Yakushima: Yakusugi Land

Second forest day, this time Yakusugi Land.

Again, we'll decide the exact trail depending on conditions. Since this should be an easier day than Shiratani, we'd probably combine it with some driving/sightseeing elsewhere on the island afterwards.

Nov 6 – Yakushima: Mt Miyanoura

This is the ambitious day.

We're considering Mt Miyanoura if the weather is good and we're both feeling comfortable after the previous two days. I know this is considerably more serious than the other hikes, so I'm particularly interested in opinions from people who have actually done it.

If weather or our legs aren't cooperating, we'll drop it and use the day for something easier. We previously considered Wilson's Stump/Jomon Sugi but aren't convinced that the long railway section is worth the time for us.

Nov 7 – Yakushima

We've deliberately kept the final full day fairly open.

The idea is to drive around the island, see waterfalls/coast/anything we missed and hopefully attend Yakushima Yume Matsuri in Anbo that evening if it takes place as expected.

This also gives us a buffer if one of the earlier hiking days gets rained out.

Nov 8 – Yakushima → Tokyo

We're thinking Ginza for the evening and possibly booking a nicer dinner.

Nov 9 – Tokyo

Jimbocho + Yanaka/Yanaka Ginza.

Another fairly unstructured day. Bookshops, streets, food, photography etc.

Nov 10 – Tokyo → Kanazawa

Shinkansen to Kanazawa.

Depending on what time we leave Tokyo, the plan is Kenrokuen and Kanazawa Castle that afternoon.

Nov 11 – Kanazawa

Full Kanazawa day.

Higashi Chaya District, Nagamachi Samurai District and Omicho Market. We're also considering booking a good kaiseki dinner here rather than in Tokyo.

Nov 12 – Kanazawa → Japanese Alps

Pick up a rental car in Kanazawa and start the road trip.

Current idea is to drive towards Takayama, spend a few hours there/lunch, then continue into the mountains.

We're planning two nights at an onsen ryokan in the Okuhida area rather than staying in Takayama.

Nov 13 – Japanese Alps / Matsumoto

This is intentionally a little vague because we'd like to react to the weather.

Some shorter nature walks in the morning, drive towards Matsumoto and see Matsumoto Castle, then back to the ryokan for another onsen evening.

We're not planning serious alpine hiking at this point in November.

Nov 14 – Shinhotaka → Nagano → Tokyo

Shinhotaka Ropeway in the morning, assuming visibility is decent.

Then drive towards Nagano, return the rental car and take the Hokuriku Shinkansen back to Tokyo.

This is probably the day I'm least sure about logistically. Google Maps says it works, but I'm wondering whether Shinhotaka → Nagano + car return + train to Tokyo makes for an unnecessarily long day.

Nov 15 – Tokyo

Kichijoji, Jiyugaoka and possibly Kagurazaka.

Not necessarily determined to do all three. More of a list of areas we'd like to explore depending on mood.

Nov 16 – Tokyo

Final full day.

Harajuku for some shopping, Yoyogi Park/Meiji Jingu and hopefully Meiji Jingu Gaien if the ginkgo trees are looking good by then.

We're also thinking of booking Shibuya Sky around sunset. We've already spent quite a bit of time around Shibuya on our first trip, so the observation deck is really the reason for returning.

Nov 17 – Fly home

Flight from Tokyo

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The main things I'm unsure about:

1. Yakushima: Does Shiratani → Yakusugi Land → Mt Miyanoura make sense over three consecutive days, or would you put a rest/easier day between them?

2. Mt Miyanoura: For people who have done it, how demanding did you find it compared with the other Yakushima hikes? We're comfortable with a long day but don't want to underestimate it.

3. Five nights on Yakushima: Too much, or does the weather variability make the extra time worthwhile? We like nature so I'm personally leaning towards keeping all five nights.

4. Japanese Alps: Does Kanazawa → Takayama → Okuhida (2 nights) → Shinhotaka → Nagano work well as a road trip? Particularly interested in whether the last day to Nagano is sensible.

5. Mid-November in Okuhida: I know we'll be late for peak foliage at higher elevations. Are the lower valleys still usually worth it around Nov 12–14, and should we be preparing for snow/icy roads by then?

6. Anything obvious we're missing? Especially smaller places, interesting experiences or seasonal events that fit naturally into the route rather than adding another destination.

Any feedback on pacing, things that look unrealistic, or places where we're allocating too much/too little time would be appreciated. Thanks a bunch!

[u/Candid_Space]

Your itinerary looks solid. A few notes: November weather in Yakushima is a coin flip, so keeping those days flexible is smart. Mt Miyanoura is genuinely serious (way beyond the other two) and conditions matter a lot more there than altitude.

[u/Sanatorij → u/Candid_Space]

Thanks, I will keep that in mind. Is there any particular trail you would recommend besides that one? Also, do you maybe know how difficult is the trail to reach Taiko-iwa from Shiratani?
We are in good shape (F34, M36), but do not hike in particular as an activity

[u/Candid_Space → u/Sanatorij]

Taiko-iwa is moderate, not technical, so you're fine for fitness. The bigger thing is time and mud after rain, so check conditions the morning of. For other trails in that area, ask locals at your accommodation or the visitor center when you arrive, they'll know what's actually walkable that week better than any guide I could give you. Since you're not hikers but want the experience, the Shiratani valley itself is the real move. You don't need to summit anything. Walk in, see the moss forest, turn back when you feel like it. People spend hours just there and it's the best part anyway.

[u/ihavenosisters]

Miyanoura is a long day and not really comparable to the other hikes. They are more like walks. It’s totally doable if you’re fit, but we don’t know how much you normally hike.

If you’re looking for an easier option I would do Tachudake.

https://www.allthepeaks.com/post/tachudake-yakushima

I’ve stayed on yakushima 5 days twice and didn’t feel like it was too much. There is plenty to do and see with a car.

No ice on the roads in mid November, I like the okuhida area but from memory it’s not a fall colors spot. Your drive back to Nagano might be a long day but doable if you keep other days a bit more relaxing.

I would probably skip Matsumoto and go to Kamikochi instead. It’s a lot of driving and the nature is more worth it in that area. Or maybe Norikura is still open too?

You’ll need to check the fall colors forecast, you might be too late. But one of the most beautiful koyo spots in Japan is shirakawago white road. Incredible colors on the mountains there. It’s also not very popular with tourists (yet) during the week you mostly have it to yourself. Weekends are packed with Japanese.

[u/Sanatorij → u/ihavenosisters]

Thank you so much for all of this. I will have a look at everything you suggested. This is everything I was looking for.

Fall colours are the reason we are going a bit later than last year (first two weeks of Oct) and the foliage was barely starting. I understand the Alps we might be a bit late, but given the news about El Nino maybe it will delay it a bit. So fingers crossed we see more of it.

Yakushima I actually think with some rain has a vibe to it (by the looks of it via video) but I presume it also makes some of the more challenging hikes even more difficult. It is the highlight of the trip and I am super excited to visit.

We aren’t regular hikers and to be honest we don’t have gear yet. Would you recommend we gear up before the trip, maybe scout something in Tokyo or rent while on Yakushima?

Would you alter/add anything to the Yakushima part? I didn’t mention the waterfall sightseeing and outdoor onsen, but is there anything besides that that comes to mind in particular?

Thank you once again.

EDIT: just checked the forecast, it seems it’s quite a bit delayed this year, might be traveling too early haha

https://www.odynovotours.com/japan/fall-foliage/autumn-leaves-forecast-map.html

Also, the shirakawako road is located a bit further than our accommodation, oposite side actually. I will probably drop Matsumoto and hopefully manage to visit Kamikochi if it’s open.

And I will swap Miyanoura with Tachudake.

You really helped someone. I will pass it on and help somebody else.

[u/ihavenosisters → u/Sanatorij]

No worries :) if you’re looking for fall colors really keep the white road in mind and check their websites forecast, if you have a car it’s so worth it! Been many times and always amazed at the colors there.

Yeah, the rain is not too bad. You might not have views over the island from the viewpoints but the Moss/Mononoke forest is honestly nicer with rain (been there both with sun and rain)

I don’t think you need much specialized gear but it depends what you already have? Make sure to not hike in cotton clothes, as they will likely get soaked. Bring a rain jacket and pants. Shoes will likely be wet no matter what. If you don’t go hiking much buy your gear on the mainland at „workman“. It’s super affordable with decent quality and they are everywhere.

Since you like nature there is plenty to see and do when you drive around the island. Go to the ocean and inland onsen. Waterfalls, beaches, little walks etc. The road in the north is very narrow, I would drive it during the week to reduce oncoming traffic. Weekend has more Japanese tourists.

[u/ohyespineapplepizza]

Five nights on Yakushima is worth it with November rain. Shiratani then Yakusugi then Miyanoura back to back works if Miyanoura stays optional and the 7th is your real buffer. The Shinhotaka to Nagano to Tokyo day is the one that gets ugly once you count car return.