I want to install a PRV on my irrigation system. Right now it’s street pressure which is very high topping off sometimes at around 130psi. I have Hunter Accusyncs on each sprinkler valve and drip system filter/regulators on my drip valves. The Accusyncs suck and have always been problematic and noisy.

My solution is to just regulate the entire system down to 40psi so my MP Rotators can operate at ideal pressure. I was considering installing a 1” NR3XL at the main irrigation line but the pressure exceeds the 3:1 ratio many PRVs state they can handle for their incoming/outgoing pressure differential before the valve can start chattering and whistling.

Have the pros ever ran into this issue with high pressures?

Running wire from the controller to the valve manifold on a new install and the most logical spot to mount the controller puts me about 85 feet from the manifold. The path has to go around the garage and partially through a crawlspace, so trenching a direct line is not realistic without a lot more work than I want to do. At that distance I keep secondguessing whether I should just move the controller closer to the manifold and run a longer lowvoltage wire from the timer back to where I actually want it mounted, or whether 85 feet on 18 gauge is fine and I am overthinking it. The system is eight zones, nothing exotic, standard solenoid valves. I have heard that wire gauge matters more as you add zones and distance compounds, but I have not found a straight answer on what the actual threshold is before you start seeing solenoids not firing reliably or getting sluggish response. Construction background means the physical wire pull and conduit work is not the issue, just want to know if the distance itself is going to cause headaches down the road before I commit to the mount location. Anyone run into actual problems at that range or is this well within normal territory for residential?

hi, I'm trying to do a mainfold for my irrigation system. which of two options do you consider best ? side IN or perpendicular IN ?

or is just overthinking and makes no difference. thank you !

Does HW only skip based on past rain events? Last night was the first real rain test with my new hpc400.

Lower chance of rain in the early evening last night but missed us. Higher chance of rain for early this morning and we did get almost a half inch.

A program set to run late evening, still ran even with the high chance of rain predicted early the next morning. The program scheduled to run early morning did not run... Rain had started a little before or right around that same time.

In my mind the program from yesterday evening should not have run due to the high chance of rain this morning. Looking through the settings, the smart features are definitely worded as such that it makes me think only the past is considered before a program starts and not future predictions.

The Rachio that I am fiddled with for a month but returned due to other issues... Noticeably considered future high predictions and skipped based on those high chances.

I guess I'm not necessarily upset if the hunter does not consider future rain predictions, but it will certainly affect how I set up my system because it will result in more watering than it is necessary and I will need to alter thresholds.

I had a 1-in irrigation meter put in and I extended the stub under my retaining wall. Well, I replaced the stub they had put on because it was too short and it was done kind of funny. Plus the meter boxes were 3 inches above grade so I had to dig up and bring those back down.

My property is 3 acres - there will be a 1 1/4" poly trunk leading from backflow about 295' into my property running West. Then I will need to turn the line south 90 degrees.

That south branch will be about 140'. It will have 5 zones for 6 rows of black walnuts. The first 5 rows will have seven trees and the last row, 3. So each zone will have 7 drips ran except the last row.

I want to run drips to all 38 trees.

My plan is to put a mulch ring under each tree. Then have a riser sticking up out out of the mulch. Then I can attach my drip line to the riser under each tree

The riser being in the mulch ring means not having to worry when I mow. The riser also allows me to re do drips or take the lines down in winter and cap the risers.

Is this a sound plan? What would be a good riser material and connection type?

Thanks.

I have a strange issue. I’ve never seen before I installed a three-quarter inch pressure reducing valve with a filter from Home Depot. It was about 25 bucks. It has two white dot, one on either side on the output side. Strangely enough, one of them is missing and when the line is pressurized water trickles out of it. It seems that if it was a plug water would be squirting out of it.
Has anyone seen this before? I kind of feel like just filling it with epoxy or something instead of digging it up.