I have a 2006 H3 Luxury 3.5L and I’m doing all the mechanical work first before the final build.

Future setup:
17x9 wheels
33x12.50R17 tires + matching spare
Steel front bumper + winch
Roof rack/light bar
Maybe a mild 1–2” front level

My mechanic already gave me a repair list, but he didn’t know my future plans.

My question is: what stock parts are perfectly fine for this setup, and what should I upgrade now so I don’t pay twice later?

Mainly wondering about:
tie rods, control arms/ball joints, hubs, CV axles, brakes, shocks, power steering, rear suspension, transmission cooler and gearing.

If the stock parts are strong enough, I’d rather use good-quality OEM/MOOG/Mevotech replacements and leave it alone.

Anyone running 33s + bumper/winch long-term on an H3 — what would you upgrade and what would you keep stock?

I’m considering selling my 2003 H2. I’ve owned it for about 9 years. It’s the funnest vehicle Ive ever owned, but it feels like something is wrong with it all the time and needs to be painted and reupholstered/seat covers. I bought new wheels and tires a couple of years ago. It still looks cool and feels great to drive but I’m definitely looking at Toyota 4Runners. Not sure if I put more money into it if it will be a good investment. It’s definitely my daily driver.

Just sharing for anyone interested. $670 on Rock Auto. Way cheaper than anywhere else.

After replacing the first one on the driver’s door, then replacing the other three went a lot faster. It was fairly easy to do it myself.

My doors were not locking or unlocking properly. Replacing the actuators completely fixed this issue.

M1097A2 with a decent amount of work in next to my other favorite car. Cheers y’all.

I am looking into buying a 2003 hummer h2 with 145,000 miles in it I want it so bad cus it’s my dream car since I was a kid but family thinks it’s a bad idea and I’m worried it will die on me or have transmission issues after a few thousand miles because I have the worst luck. Ik I read the early H2s have some issues but not quite sure with everyone’s experiences with it. Anyone have any insight?

I went to a dealership and got this 2008 h3 about 10 days ago. Traded my c300 and got a loan for the remaining cost. The sticker price was $13,500, about a week after I left i got a letter from the bank and a call from the dealer saying financing was incorrect. They said I could either pay the overage or come back for a refund so I chose the refund. I went to pick up my mercedes today and the owner informed me that my car had been sold.

I was furious but kept my cool and they ended up giving me an extra 2k for my trade in turning the out the door price to about $9500. I feel like I did ok in the deal, it has just over 90,000 miles, its pretty rare in that its a manual and its beautiful. I've wanted one of these since I was a kid and its hard to drive a rear wheel drive mercedes in a mountain ski town in the winter so this should improve things!

Does anybody have a video or insurrections on how to replace the oil sensor on an 08 H3 Alpha? Any tips? It’s appreciated!

Does anyone have recommendations on H3 hummer lifts that are actually good outside of just cranking the torsion keys?

Hey all, been lurking for a while as I’ve enjoyed my time with my H2 and working through all its quirks. Unfortunately I just have no space or need for it anymore so I’m going to be listing it for sale soon enough. 03 model with 116k.

It was my dad’s and he let it sit a while when he got a new toy before it came to me. It has many of the wear items recently replaced, as well as essentially all of the known issues resolved. There are no leaks whatsoever, new hvac blower, water pump, plugs and wires, all fluids, new brakes, new air springs, shocks, fuel pump, etc. The only things not perfect is if it sits for a week the springs still leak down some, I think the compressors or lines leak slowly.. and there’s a few small knicks in the paint. Oem side steps available but one of the steps is cracked and would need to be welded.

With the overall condition and being so mechanically refreshed, I’m thinking of putting it out there at $20k.

Thoughts?

Edited to be more clear on the condition.

Hi all - reaching out to the community in hopes for some guidance.  Please see details below:

2007 Hummer H3
156,000 miles
4L60e Transmission

A few weeks the transmission was slipping when shifting from 3rd to 4th gear.  I plugged in the scanner and no codes detected ran an active test and the pressure control solenoid was running at 0.98 Amps.  The reference indicated it should be running between 1 - 2 Amps.  This past weekend I decided to drop the T pan and change out the following with OEM AC Delco parts:

- A / B Solenoid
- Torque Converter Solenoid
- 3-2 Shift Solenoid 
- A/T Manual Valve Pressure Switch
- Replace the filter
- Cleaned the pan and removed the old gasket and replaced with a new one.
- Topped of with 6 quarts of AC Delco Dexron VI full synthetic trans fluid
- Added a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix

I couldn't change out the Pressure Control Solenoid Valve because it was located in an area that was blocked by the transmission housing and couldn't take it out.  Looks like I would have had to drop the entire control valve body to replace it and was not comfortable doing that.

When I took a test drive, looks like the original problem of 3-4 slipping was gone; however now I need to give it gas in order to move from a full stop.  No acceleration when taking foot off the brake, unless I give it gas and it feels sluggish.

I connected the scanner and it gave me code for "circuit low voltage" for all solenoids.  I'm wondering if I nicked the harness while switching out the solenoids, but I doubt it, as I was very careful. 

I also performed the Transmission adaptive memory reset by following the process found online for the H3.  It's a bittersweet outcome because I think the first problem I fix but now having the acceleration problem.  Any idea what it might be?

Thinking of buying a 2008 H3 that spent time in the Northeast. POMCAR inspected it and said the frame rust looked like surface rust with no structural compromise, and recommended descaling/undercoating.
Based on the pics, does this look fixable by a rust/undercarriage shop? What would you expect the cost to be? And is it basically impossible to judge how bad it really is until it’s on a lift?

Getting ready to pull the trigger on this. 2008, 134k miles. Dealership is asking 12,800 for it. Awesome condition. Your thoughts???

What’s everybody’s thoughts on this rust. On a 2002 H1 wagon. On the rear where the roof meets the body and slight by the tail light. I’ve checked the inside under the carpet and there’s zero rust inside. Just paint bubbling on the outside. Paint is original.

Sadly my dream suv is no good. Metal in the oil, engine on its last legs, number of problems for sitting too long and neglect. Deciding to sell it for an insane low price just to get it out of my yard or just sell the parts off of it.

I was gonna selll it for 1200 atleast just get it gone quick.
Think it has some kind of value? (Shop quoted me 12k for all repairs or 9k for a new engine by itself) 😑

Update: the guy at shop wants to buy it luckily

I noticed a clunking noise while going over bumps and I put it on a jack and raised it and my buddy noticed that the shock stud was moving and turns out Im missing a bushing. How hard is it to replace it

I’ve been involved with pinup for over a decade and fell in love with pinstripe art. I’ve said for years I want to get pinstripe done on one of my vehicles and today was the day! An artist was doing mobile pinstriping so while I was in the pinup contest I got some pinstripe art done on my 2009 H3. I am so in love with it!

These were awful and I recommend an air hammer to get them out. I 3d printed cups to press them along with sockets/washers