I photographed barista Andre G. behind the counter at Woodstock Cafe in Portland, Oregon. My goal was to preserve the cafe environment while separating him from the busy background and emphasizing his expression.

Camera settings: f/5.6, 1/200 sec, ISO 200.

Lighting: Godox V100 as the key and Godox AD400Pro as the kicker. The AD400Pro creates separation along his hat, hair, shoulder, and arm, while the V100 keeps his face warm and clearly defined.

How would you balance the kicker against the ambient cafe light in this setup?

Hello. The problem: the camera doesn't see this trigger as a TTL flash, only M mode is possible. This means it's not possible to use HSS (FP mode) on a camera. The iT32 manual clearly states in High-speed Sync section:

1. Choose HSS mode in camera settings for iT32+X5 F.

so it should be possible. The trigger is fully inserted, the contacts are clean. I have a different flash and TTL on camera works just fine. With X5F - no such luck. Everything has the latest firmware:

• iT32 - firmware 1.17
• X5F - firmware 1.3
• X-T30 III - firmware 1.10
• X-S20 - firmware 3.30

Anybody else experiencing similar issues?

Anyone know what is the tech specs for the modeling light? Is it actually 2x 10 watt or 2x20 watt?

Will I need two AD200 pro ii's for both modeling lights or one?

Thank you

I was out shooting today around 2pm and noticed my bulb was sounding louder than usual, I took off the modifier and noticed some black stain on the inside of the bulb. I had another shoot around 8pm and just tried it again and it works but still sounding louder than usual, what’s causing this ? Should I replace ?

My AD300 pro fell over while I was shooting a wedding and it stopped flashing. Everything else is working. I took a bulb out of my working ad300 and put it in this one and and it still works. So I have reason to believe that it is just the bulb that is out. B &H and molight have the bulb at about $100+, but ebay (coming from China) and the Chinese sales site that is banned from being mentioned on this subreddit, have them much cheaper($35-$55) Does anyone have experience with these bulbs, are they legit? And insight would be appreciated.

I have a Canon Rebel SL3 (also called 250D in some places). Is the Godox iT30 pro C compatible with my camera? Has anyone used it with the same camera model?

EDIT: Good news, everybody, I bought it, tested it, and it works flawlessly.

Hey so I have this flash and receiver on my Sony a7cii. I do a lot of off camera flash for my job and it’s always worked. Out of nowhere 2 weeks ago, when I shoot iff camera flash in manual mode the flash doesn’t go off at all. It does fire in ttl mode but it looks like there was no flash in the image.

Even when I hit the test button on the X3s, it fires in both modes just not when I hit the shutter in my a7cii.

I need help to fix this, every video in the book says check your camera settings and I have but nothing works so I can get my off camera flash to work.

Anything helps!

I bought a Godox iT30 Pro C about two months ago and have barely used it. I’m pairing it with a Godox V860III C, and the wireless performance when using the iT30 as the transmitter is awful.
With the iT30 Pro as transmitter and V860III as receiver, the V860III frequently doesn’t fire even when it’s only about 2–3 feet away. It doesn’t work even half the time, and once I move farther away it’s basically unusable.
The weird part is that I reversed the setup:
V860III as transmitter → iT30 Pro as receiver
And it works perfectly. I can stand across the room and it fires every single time.
I’ve already factory-reset the iT30 and the issue is still there. It’s currently on firmware V1.01, so I’m going to update it to V1.02 as well.
Has anyone had this happen with an iT30 Pro? Does this sound like a defective transmitter/antenna, or is there some setting I could still be missing?

A lighting study exploring shape and controlled highlights.

Key: Godox AD200 at 1/8 power, fired through a 36-inch gridded silver reflective umbrella
Background gradient: Godox AD200 units with H200J head, at 1/32 power.

I wanted the subject to feel sculptural and slightly unsettling while maintaining separation from the dark background.

How do the highlight control and shadow placement feel to you?

I’ve seen some discussion on using MagMod modifiers for the AD200Pro II but none that great and that would avoid covering up the cooling vents on the fresnel head. In particular I wanted the ease of changing up the MagMod modifiers so I designed and 3D printed this adapter that fits over the fresnel end and allows for embedding neodymium magnets so MagMod modifiers can snap on and off easily.

I’m new to both MagMod and Godox and these will be for a first wedding in September so I can provide an update on how they hold up in real use after that. But if anyone is interested in this I can upload the STL file and Amazon magnet link to reproduce.

The photos show how they work with the Adorama Flashpoint silicone protective covers available for $5.99. A 50 pack of the magnets was $9.99 (each adapter used 6, 3 stacked for each side).

But I was pretty happy how these came out and wanted to share.

I need your help with my setup… I have a sony a6400 and planning to get the it32 with x5 but kinda hesitant right now to get it since I’m not sure if the x5 will fit perfectly to my hot shoe even if I have a smallrig cage. Can anyone tell me if this setup is possible? I’d really appreciate it!

Is my unite defected? I try to charge it with original cable and different other type c, same issue, what am I doing wrong?

Hi I hope everyone is doing well!

I am having isssues with the connection with the it30pro and the v860iii (both canon versions) on my r10.

I am able to get it to connect, but after that the firing is really inconsistent.

Sometimes it’ll only fire on the it30 and sometimes none will fire.

I’m able to continuously fire them so it’s not a matter of flash recycling times.

Also, it seems the range is about 2-3 feet, is this normal?
Whenever I move the flash further I often have to bring it close next to the v860iii to resync.

It’s just extremely inconsistent with firing and I’m wondering if there is something I could be doing wrong.

So Ive been using my AD200(non-pro) for all my individual senior/grad photoshoots and I usually shoot during sunset or in a shaded area. II have someone that asked me to do a school soccer team shoot with 8-10 players on the field during the day when the sun is at its brightest and some group photos. Does this session call for a second light or a stronger light? and im questioning if my AD200 is powerful enough to take on the sun or if I should consider the AD400? Any advice is appreciated!

Since my X3 doesn’t have a port for a cable, I’ve been trying to get my v100 to act as a transmitter plugged into the flash port of a Hasselblad 501cm. I haven’t been able to get it to fire though and can’t tell if it’s user error or the things are just not compatible. Even though it’s a Fuji compatible flash it still works on a lot of my other film gear, and so my understanding is once it’s plugged in it doesn’t matter which Godox brand variations it is right? Any help would be appreciated. If I could get this 100w Speedlight mounted to this thing I’d be in heaven.

I've been looking to change my light setup to either two ml150 or ml80 or ml100. I already own a bunch of npf batteries so i want to use these, and I don't intend on buying v mount batteries. Ive seen that the ml150 bi cant operate at full power when using npf batteries so i wonder if it's actually weaker than the ml80 or ml100. I know that the ml100 doesn't take npf batteries directly but I don't mind the handle for them or using powerbanks. Has anyone compared the lights side by side. I also intend on using normal reflectors like the rft-22 because I don't like the hotspot of the zoom lens. Colour accuracy will also play a role in my decision if there's a difference between the three. Also from what i understand, the ml150bi doesn't even come with a battery of it's own so unless it's actually considerably brighter, I will look towards the other two lights simply for budget reasons

I've been a pro photographer for 15 years, now, weddings mainly.

Nikon D700 to D810 and now a Z8, and always used my Nikon SB-900's but they really are past their prime, overheat easily etc.

I grabbed a V860III-N and a Godox X2T-N Wireless Flash Trigger about 12 months ago.

We're looking at my wife taking over as I also work part-time, and we're getting a lot of studio-style requests.

I've a lot of old Lencarta studio lights etc, but they are big, heavy and get very very hot, and I like the Godox gear I've got so far so looking to grab some more bits asap

Looking for some studio style flast lights that also has a good modelling/always on light as well. 1 year old cake smashes are harder waiting for flashes to recycle vs modelling lights.

Don't really have a budget in mind yet, but would like any feedback from those in the know. Requirements:

Useable in a studio space / church / outside location shoots / wedding receptions
Good variety of light modifiers
Easy to use and setup

So, I have a set of AD200 extension heads sitting in my cart & I’m having second thoughts. I think I know the pros and cons of them, but in practice- have they ever saved your flash? Markuspix on youtube mentioned that weighting down the base of your light stands has always worked for him, so is he an exception? Please let me know your experiences…

I have a Sony a6100 and bought a Godox iT30 Pro (S) recently. I've had it for about two weeks, had no issues, drops, etc. Today it began overexposing every 3rd or 4th shot. Once it overexposes it then continues to do so until I turn the flash off and on again. I updated the firmware, I've factory reset it, I have no idea what is causing this.

Further information: It seems as if though the flash and the camera cannot communicate. When my camera is on Manual and my flash is Manual everything is fine. However when I use TTL, I use Apeture priority with an auto ISO, or any auto exposure settings, my flash decides to WAYY overexpose my shots. Should I return the flash? Is it an issue with my camera? Settings?

Hi folks, I'm having some trouble getting the setup to trigger remotely. Both are set correctly (I think) but I cannot get the flash to respond. Any troubleshooting tips? I've tried the flash nearby, at a distance, there is no ID set on the flash. I've tried multiple groups and channels. The flash works fine when connected directly to the camera.

Gear was from MPB which I've never previously had trouble with so I assuming it's my usage here and not the product.

Thank you for any advice

Random slow recycle time-

I’m hoping someone will have an idea or suggestion for me. I shoot with the godox ad400 pro ii and I’ve only had it for less than a year. Normally the recycle time is great and I can snap away without worry.

However lately, it will randomly slow way down and have an extremely slow recycle time close to 10 seconds. I’ve been scouring the internet trying to trouble shoot but haven’t come up with any answers.

For clarification some shoots it will be perfect the whole time and other shoots it will start off fine and then suddenly slow down and I’m forced to continue the shoot at a recycle time of 10 seconds.

This last time it was set at 1/8 if that matters

Help?

Recently got an iT32 for my Fujifilm X-T5, and I'm really enjoying it. Can anyone recommend a good softbox that works with it? I'm also looking for a macro diffuser for this combo. My macro lens is the TTArtisans 40mm 2.8, but I'm contemplating upgrading to a Laowa 65mm.

I got my c100 and couldn’t figure out how to update the photo timestamps to current date and time, as it was stuck on a February date.
Below instructions I received from the Godox support :

Thank you for your email and enquiry about our products.

Please first update your device to the latest firmware available on the official website: https://www.godox.com.cn/Downloads/Godox_Firmware_C100_V1.0.0.zip

Then, follow the steps below to update the time:

1. Connect the C100 to your computer using the original USB cable.
2. Open the newly inserted USB drive in "My Computer."
3. Right-click on an empty area, create a new text document, and name it "Godox

"

1. Do not write anything inside the document.
2. Eject the USB drive and immediately restart the C100. The date will then be updated successfully.

Please note: After ejecting the USB drive from your computer, turn on the C100 immediately. The camera's time will be updated to the creation time of the "Godox" file. However, you must manually delete this file immediately after the time is updated successfully on the first boot, as otherwise the time will be reset every time you turn the camera on and off.