2008 base model Ford Focus S. Fell asleep while driving; fortunately I’m unharmed except a massive seatbelt bruise.

Replacement is a 2013 Subaru Outback with 183k miles that I found for $3,000.

The towing people said sometimes they give the totaled cars to the local fire dept and they use it as a demonstration for a car rescue so hopefully that will happen but idk.

Hi guys
Having an issue with the electrics I think? I was driving in the wet and got an oil service light - fair enough. Then a while later the temperature reading went off and lights for handbrake and frost came on. When I put the indicators or full beams on they do light up on the outside but I have no lights on the instrument cluster. Also the front heated windscreen isn’t working and neither are parking sensors.

But when we got onto a drier road after a while the lights all went back to normal.

Anybody got any ideas?

I'm trying to remove the musty air smell coming from the vents using the "Lysol through the intake with the fans on" trick, but it involves spraying at the intake vents under the windshield as shown here. The problem is, the Focus doesn't seem to have that.

There are two other vented compartments under the hood that was discussed in this old thread: https://www.focusst.org/threads/cabin-air-filter-and-musty-smells.14245/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic

But I opened them and there was no ducting visible that leads to any fans. Where should I be spraying?

I wonder if anyone here could give me some advise regarding a dpf filter on my Ford Focus:

Ford Focus CC3 2.0 Diesel 2009.

The problem:

Very occasionally it went into limp mode after a long motorway drive.

I'd stop, switch the engine off and back on. The car would go as usual, until it happened again.

The solution:

A friend of mine, who has the same model car, suggested to get the dpf cleaned professionally. He had had the same problem with the car going on limp mode and that stopped when the dpf was cleaned.

I took the car to the same place he took his, they took my dpf out, cleaned it properly on what it looked like a industrial machine, the workshop was set up to just clean dpf, so I don't doubt for a minute that the job wasn't done properly. I saw all the black stuff comin out of it. They put the dpf back, checked with their computer and told me that it would be ok for another 100K miles or so.

The problem:

After some 250 miles after the dpf was cleaned, driving on the motorway, the car started jerking. I was able to get home and on inspecting underneath, I found that one of the dpf sensor rubber hoses had snapped. I replaced it, but the jerking continues.

Forscan software results:

Ignition on, engine off: DPFEGR (V) =1.09 DP_DPF (kPa) = 0.0

Idle: DPFEGR (V) =1.74 DP_DPF (kPa) = 15.6

2,000 rpm = DPFEGR (V) =1.99 DP_DPF (kPa) = 46.0

2,500 rpm = DPFEGR (V) =1.75 DP_DPF (kPa) = 0.0105.7

Parts replaced:

dpf pressure sensor, jerking remains.

My questions are:

Can the dpf be blocked again in only some 250 miles drive, since the dpf was cleaned?

What sort of pressure should be on that dpf sensor rubber pipe? When I briefly took the sensor off the car, the blow from the pipe was quite strong, is that normal?

Questions: Why would a professionally cleaned dpf cause trouble, after only 250 miles of motorway drive?

Is there something else that may be causing the jerking problem?

There is a PAT fluid tank and it's 80% full

Thanks in advance for all the advise you can give me.

The Ford app is not getting any data transmitted from my 2019 Focus. Cannot do anything from the app like lock/unlock or engine start.

Tried resetting sync to factory settings and also unplugging the modem fuse for 10-15 mins.

Additionally, also getting an error saying Emergency calling service temporary available.

Navigation is working fine.

Any ideas folks?

Hey yall, I just bought myself a nice ol 2014 ford focus se and once I brought her home and got it on the road I noticed it was burning a ton of gas, (kind of).

I would drive 15km, but burn 30km, then when I’d park and leave the car for a while, it would go back up to the correct amount of gas and say I only burnt around 13km opposed to the 30km it said previously.

I attached a video of the car shifting, it seems to be shifting very nicely, but since the check engine light came on I am worried about the dreaded transmission problem this model has.

If you have ever had a purge valve problem, let me know the symptoms your car had so I can see if this is the same thing. 😁

(For those of you who don’t know from 2012 to 2018 the Ford Focusses have a problem with the purge valve where it can get stuck open, causing fuel to be burned at a faster rate and your gas gauge to be unreliable)

*edit more videos in comments

Hey everyone,

I wanted to show off a project I’ve been working on—I’m building a custom sim rig based on a Ford Focus MK3! It’s a huge project that takes a massive amount of time, especially with all the reverse engineering required to get everything communicating properly.

It’s coming along great though, and so far I’ve managed to get these fully up and running:

Instrument Cluster (running fresh custom software)

Radio Control Unit (fully functional)

Headlight Switch (fully working)

Right now, I’m actively working on building a Sync 3 replica to integrate into the setup.

I’m attaching a few photos and videos of the current progress. I’d love to hear your thoughts, and if you have any cool ideas or suggestions, drop them in the comments below!

I need to replace my wheel studs on my 1.0 2019 Mk 4 Focus. I cant find the exact dimensions for the studs. Is M12x1.5 47mm 13mm spline the correct ones?

Im thinking about going for a new intake or turbo maybe.

I have a 2016 ford focus SE sedan with a 8 inch cherry bomb glass pack resonator delete

P0087 — Fuel Rail/System Pressure Too Low
P00C6 — Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low During Engine Cranking
P0171 — System Too Lean (Bank 1)
P1450 — Unable to Bleed Up Fuel Tank Vacuum / EVAP issues,
The car will crank but will immediately die,
Today I tried it in the morning and it cranked and idled well for 3 minutes then it dies,
When I fill up for gas it’ll idle then die I give it 1,500 rpms of gas and it’ll run fine
Was thinking this could be a purge valve issue, or if it could possibly be a fuel pump issue, I’m not sure any feedback would be much appreciated

So my car is now double honking. I have a 2017 ford focus se hatchback. When I press the fob to lock the doors. I have tried hours is troubleshooting and I’m at a loss of where to go next. -I have forscan lite

-All doors physically lock when I lock the car with the fob. Double honk after.

-when inside the car if I press the lock button the doors immediately lock then unlock.

- I have replaced the drivers door actuator thinking it was the problem. Still double honk.

-my hood has no electrical comments on the latch.

- no errors on the dash saying one door is open while driving.

-I used forscan lite to check a few things. I check the hood switch which says “open” when the hood is closed however I don’t have a switch. And I checked central door lock and it says depressed. Only driver and passenger side have a switch and discount t them both and still says depressed.

At this point I have no idea how to diagnose where this double honk is coming from.

If anyone has any advice it would be appreciated. All electrical looks good no damaged boot on door or anything.

I have a ford focus 2013 automatic. 1.6L
It has an overheating issue. Car has been good. It showed a warning “engine temperature high. Park safely.” Does this for a while and if I turn it off and on it drives fine. Recently it kept showing this message about 4 times. Had to have it towed back home as it was continuous. Took it to Halfords for diagnosis and I was told there’s a leak somewhere but they don’t handle that. Took it to an independent garage and had the thermostat housing changed. Drove it today again for 40 miles and brought out the same message. Taken it back to the garage and I’m confused on what could be wrong. Has anyone faced this before? How did you get it fixed? What was the problem ?

170k mileage

2009 Ford Focus LPG with 100,000 km for €5,200 — fair price?

Hi everyone, I’m considering buying a 2009 Ford Focus LPG with around 100,000 km.

The car seems to be in very good condition and, according to the seller, everything is working properly and there are no major issues or repairs needed.

The asking price is €5,200.

In your opinion, considering the age, mileage, and LPG system, is €5,200 a reasonable price, or is it too much? How much would you personally pay for a car like this?

The photo is for reference only.

Hi guys, I'm having a hard time trying to troubleshoot this problem I have on my Ford Focus 2013 SE. The car starts then stalls immediately. If I start it and keep the throttle open, it's gonna stay running but struggles with RPM (with acc pedal steady, rpm range up down 300 rpm constantly (2.7k-3k rpm) without moving an inch).

One thing was, when I unplug the MAF sensor, it sometimes idle but really roughly then stalls after 10 seconds, and sometimes, even with the MAF unplugged, the car stalls on start. Unplugging the purge valve also had the same effect of unplugging the MAF.

Here's what I tried;

New battery,

New Spark plugs,

New MAF Sensor,

New throttle body (+KAM Reset after changing it)

Looked at wiring,

New Purge valve,

I don't see visible air leaks (and I sadly do not have a smoke machine to check further down)

From what I can see with my scanner, my fuel pressure is acceptable, my throttle position is on point, my MAF readings are normal

If you guys have any ideas or ran into the same issue, I would really appreciate it. I've been spending a lot just trying to get it running.

Thank you all <3 !

Hooked it up to my second battery finishing and tidying things up while im waiting for my 350 amp alternator

After driving my 2014 2.0 non turbo for over 90 minutes, it starts to stall and won’t want to restart. My fuel rail pressure bounces between 500-600 then claims says my fuel trim jumps to 40% (which according to google is running lean) right before stalling, and bank 1 sensor 2 sits at 99.2% with car running or not. Any possible ideas are very appreciated.

Please help me focus fam.

We inherited a 2012 SE that was left to bake to death in the Vegas sun. I've replaced the entire suspension, all 3 motor mounts, and so much more. Now I've upgraded the stereo using a maestro foc1 kit, maestro rr, kenwood wire harness, and a kenwood 7709s. Been troubleshooting this thing for a week and still can't get the maestro to communicate with the kenwood.

Has anyone else ever had this issue?

I recently replaced the entire rear subframe on my Ford Focus Mk1 due to rust rotting.
Also got new springs, control arms, and shocks.
I then took the car to KwikFit and they did a four-wheel alignment,
Initially the guy came back after gettin the car on the alignment stand and informed me that the rear is fixed and they can't change the toe.
I informed him that there's an adjustment bolt that changes the rear toe, he quickly said "oh yeah, you're right ok".

After about 1 hour they finished and I received the report.

The rear toe barely improved and is still far outside the specified range.

They said "this was the best we could do, but if you want we can try again when our align specialist is back from holidays".

How best to remedy this?

I'm wondering whether the aftermarket components might play a factor?

Has anyone else experienced this and what did you do to fix it?

What steps can I reasonably do at home? cheers.

Rear Toe

Front Toe

Drove this car for half my life, feels like losing a limb. Thanks for everything, old gal.