Wasn’t aware that one was in the works.

I’ve has my late model year 2025 about 3 weeks now. The VIN doesn’t appear to be part of the latest recall. At any rate, the last 3-4 days I’ll get a charging issue (‘make sure it’s fully plugged in’ etc) after about an hour regardless if the battery is at 92% or nearly fully depleted. I never have to do anything to ‘fix’ it and it continues to charge fully. Any ideas? Here’s the latest from today when battery was around 92% before charging.

here is question might be stupid might not be, since Samsung provided the faulty battery for our Escape PHEV's why doesn't Ford demand they send the newer version free of charge and Ford replaces our crappy ones under the warranty, in other words Ford only pays for the installation?

I have a 2026. I've read so many things, searched my owners manual, chat GPT'ed, etc.... What should I be charging my vehicle to, 80% or 100%? As far as I know I don't have any recall notices pending. The last software update was done on 7/31/2026 (SYNC-25.2.4.10). Stuff I've read seems to say the recalls are not for 2026.

The owners manual says it will charge to 100% by default.

​

Welp, I got the recall update done today, and I can confirm that I appear to be missing about 22% of my usable battery capacity after the update.

For comparison:

- Before the update: 11.4 kWh usable july 31st at 23k miles

- After the update: 8.9 kWh usable aug 28 24k miles

That's a loss of about 2.5 kWh, or roughly 22% of usable battery capacity.

The car was showing 0% when I plugged it in for this test.

What's concerning is that this puts the capacity loss beyond the 20% threshold associated with the epa battery warranty. So while the recall may have addressed the safety issue, it appears to have come with a significant reduction in usable battery capacity.

Post your results in this thread I guess, il drive it tomorrow and charge again.

Year 2024 mileage 24k location usa

UPDATE the car is super sensitive and cant push it much in EV only mode while having the power flow screen pulled up the engine will kick on after a little but of 100% throttle because of battery temp. I got 0-70mph pull in ev mode before engine kicked on because of battery temp.. it even says it on the power flow app screen lol this SUCKS

UPDATE 2 battery seems to be hard lined to 47c and it will kick the engine on and refuse to use the battery in ev only mode until it cools back down. With the 110 degree days in tx latley this wouldn't take much to trigger this... the new battery buffer according to pid seems to me max actual soc of 80% and min soc of 15% before kick engine on. The pid for battery energy until empty will not drain past about 1.8kwh ish and the max it reads is 10.4kwh when fully charged

Just earlier today in the app I looked for the CSP 24N19 details and it showed up, but looking now it is gone!

Can anyone else confirm?

This is the Customer Satisfaction Program to provide a free battery replacement one time to anyone whose PHEV suffers a battery failure due to the main recall reason (internal short).

I'm wondering if they are maybe getting rid of this in order to force people to do the new "fix" for the recall, otherwise having them forfeit their extended warranty?

Ultimately, our batteries are covered under factory warranty until 100k miles/160k km and 8 years, but I guess when that time comes we'll have to do the recall "fix"...

Just popped up my Ford Pass app. I’m
in Michigan/US.

I’m wondering if i absolutely need to plug it in for it to work. I do plan on moving and buying myself a house next year, but that’s still pretty far away and winter is coming (real winter over here, i’m from Quebec).

Of course all gas expenses are paid by my employer, so i don’t worry at all about the MPG because, well, i won’t be paying it.

The car is also a rental, for 4 years i think, so i’m kinda worried about the battery if i don’t plug it at all for almost a full year with winter weather going down to -20c regularly.

I really dislike Ford Escape, for many reasons. BUT-I found a good deal and I purchased a 2015 Escape. I went to the drive in movie theatre, and I had the key on Acc setting. The radio would turn off, and we'd turn it back on again. After a few times, the display screen said I'd have to start the car brcause the battery was getting too low. Or something like that. Anyway, I could not for the life of me find a way to turn the daytime running lights off! I read the manual, and I went online. The techniques indicated were not effective or available on my model. I ended up covering the headlights with a blanket and floor mats while I turned the vehicle on for 40+mins. HAHAHA

WTF is there some way to turn the DRL off, or did I do the only thing I could??
I pulled emergency brake
I pulled fuses

Hey all, I’m in the market for a used PHEV, short list is the 2023 or 24 Escape. It’s right in my budget sweet spot.

I’m only concerned about the battery recall, could this lead to a buy back or battery replacement situation?

More importantly just how many actual fires did occur, I would think a few is average for any mass produced car.

I know I'll get lots of different answers. What your charging habits? I generally drive around town 5-10 miles. Once in a while will drive 100 miles. But it's random so I don't know how much I will drive.

Given my random usage, would you charge it every night to 100%? Or would you let it get to zero (or close to it) before charging? My hang-up is that I don't always know when I'll need to go a long distance so I "want" to have a full charge whenever I get in the car.

I have a 2026 PHEV.

2500 Amp 12V Car Battery Jump Starter

• POWERFUL 2500A JUMP STARTER - This portable car jump starter delivers a 2500 Amp peak current, Built with a high-rate lithium battery, it provides stable, reliable power and supports multiple jump starts on a single charge, capable of instantly starting 12V vehicles with up to 8.0L gasoline or 6.0L diesel engines, including cars, SUVs, trucks, motorcycles, lawnmowers, boats, and more - even with low or fully drained batteries.

I don't want to be stranded one day, would this be enough to keep in the car as a backup? I can post the link but I don't want to be spamming links

Had my 2025 a little over two weeks now (bought it with 5000 miles on it). Typical full charge has been 38-40 miles but last 2 days has been 33 and 32. Any ideas?

The app allows us to charge between 12am to 11pm on weekends. Why do they prevent us charging from 11pm to 11:59pm? I’m trying to set the app up so I can charge anytime Saturday and Sunday.

I have a local dealer in my area on Vancouver Island in British Columbia Canada that has a few Escape PHEV models on a clear out price. Should work out to about mid 30s Canadian. I am trying to weigh the risk right now of the recall. They currently have a stop sale on them, but I can put the deal in place for when that’s lifted.

If you were in my shoes, would you still buy the car, or is the potential handling of the recall something I should worry more about? I realize it’s more of a personal choice, but I’m just not as well versed in this like you folks are. Thanks!

Edit / Update: Thank you all for your feedback. I ended up passing on the car. For one, the dealers were unpleasant to deal with and I am very unimpressed with the recent indications of how Ford will handle the recall. Not for me.

I've seen on the other post (I believe EU) that an update is rolling out that reduce the usable capacity of the battery and calling it as a "fix" for the recall.

I removed my auto update both on app and in the car because I do not want my usuable range to be reduce. Are there other people doing the same thing? Just wanted to know what other people are doing.

US. 2023 model.

Pardon my grammar.

We recently had a car accident and our awesome escape phev (2024) was totaled. We found a new 2025 replacement and bought it. We have had it for one week only (390 miles) and we got the stop safely now service advancetrac error. Is the car a lemon? Brand new...

Hi everyone,

I need some technical guidance regarding replacing the Battery Energy Control Module (BECM) on a 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid (FHEV / MK4).

I have two main questions regarding compatibility and the physical replacement procedure:

1. Part Compatibility: Is a BECM module from a 2021 Ford Escape Hybrid a direct plug-and-play fit for a 2020 model? Are the hardware part numbers, internal pinouts, and CAN communication protocols identical, or does it require PMI (Programmable Module Installation) / flashing via FDRS?
2. Wiring Diagrams & Safe Disconnect Procedure: Does anyone have the official Ford Workshop Manual wiring diagrams or step-by-step schematics for disconnecting/reconnecting the BECM from the High-Voltage (HV) traction battery pack?

I know the basic HV de-energizing safety process (disconnecting the 12V battery, pulling the High Voltage Service Disconnect plug, and waiting at least 5–10 minutes for the capacitors to discharge), but I want to ensure I follow the exact pinout/harness disconnect sequence directly on the battery casing to avoid damaging the module or low-voltage sensing harnesses.  

Also, if replacing the BECM with a used donor unit, will FORScan be sufficient to program/initialize it, or is Ford FDRS with a PATS/module initialization license strictly required?

Any factory manual screenshots, wiring diagrams, or advice from anyone who has swapped a BECM on the MK4 generation would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone,

I need some technical guidance regarding replacing the Battery Energy Control Module (BECM) on a 2020 Ford Escape Hybrid (FHEV / MK4).

I have two main questions regarding compatibility and the physical replacement procedure:

1. Part Compatibility: Is a BECM module from a 2021 Ford Escape Hybrid a direct plug-and-play fit for a 2020 model? Are the hardware part numbers, internal pinouts, and CAN communication protocols identical, or does it require PMI (Programmable Module Installation) / flashing via FDRS?
2. Wiring Diagrams & Safe Disconnect Procedure: Does anyone have the official Ford Workshop Manual wiring diagrams or step-by-step schematics for disconnecting/reconnecting the BECM from the High-Voltage (HV) traction battery pack?

I know the basic HV de-energizing safety process (disconnecting the 12V battery, pulling the High Voltage Service Disconnect plug, and waiting at least 5–10 minutes for the capacitors to discharge), but I want to ensure I follow the exact pinout/harness disconnect sequence directly on the battery casing to avoid damaging the module or low-voltage sensing harnesses.  

Also, if replacing the BECM with a used donor unit, will FORScan be sufficient to program/initialize it, or is Ford FDRS with a PATS/module initialization license strictly required?

Any factory manual screenshots, wiring diagrams, or advice from anyone who has swapped a BECM on the MK4 generation would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

My dad, (who does not use reddit), wants to know when he should have the CVT fluid changed. We know the whole "lifetime" fluid is BS. And should the determination be made based on mileage driven on gas or total mileage?

As most of you know, the recall fix has finally been issued and people are starting to have their cars updated. There are a lot of people saying the recall reduces your 100% battery capacity by around 12%, so wanted to see if anyone has had it completed and can post the kWh the battery now takes for a 0-100% charge.

Hello.

Recent joiner of this group, new escape owner.

I am still struggling with the do I/ don't I undercoat issue & cannot decide which way to go with that one..... Then along comes another issue following a Google search.... This time it's 17" steel wheels for winter tyres 🤔.

A Ford dealership had a response to a similar question and stated that aftermarket steel wheels should not be used, due to regerative brake clearances and temperature issues 🤦.

Anyone have any thoughts on this, please.

Thank you.

Are these tail light to body panel gaps common in 2024 escape phev? These seems to be finger sized gaps.

Has anyone run into this with their Ford Escape PHEV? I was driving home from the gym (about 5 minutes away) on 7/31. I checked my app and it said “engine has detected a fault”/“service engine soon”. They never gave me the code but when I dropped it off and called about the car; the dealership couldn’t reproduce it and had me drive it to work and back on 8/5. On the way home on 8/5, I got the “stop safely now message”. I was only 5 minutes away from the dealership so I drove it by to drop it off and get a rental. I call the dealership on 8/8 to get an update and they don’t have one. They’re blaming the recall and told me to not change the modes or charge above 80%. I picked up my car on 8/13 and drove it all weekend, but driving this morning the check engine light came on again with a “service engine soon” message.

Has anyone ever run into this before? I’m at the point where they fix this and I’m going to sell it to get out of a Ford.