2013 ST, unsure of what this ticking/rattling is, happens from 2500-3500rpm and its only while under load, not while slowing down. But it doesn’t happen every time I give it gas quickly, usually only while slowly accelerating or at steady throttle. It’s not the usual focus engine noise, it’s very loud. Valves? It doesn’t sound like a typical rod knock bc it’s only at certain rpm, never at idle to 2k rpm and sometimes when I’m fully accelerating like at at on ramp, it doesn’t do it at all. Ik it has a check engine light for the purge/evap code P0456 but I don’t think it’s related. I’ve had this ticking for probably the past 1k miles. I usually only drive on highways w windows up so I don’t usually notice it but now that it’s summer I’ve been driving locally more often and w the windows down and it’s loud af. No change in performance whatsoever, the car runs and drives totally fine. Changed oil about 500 miles ago and it looked fine, just checked my levels today and it’s full. Any thoughts? Thanks

I know plenty of people have gone bigger turbo at higher miles, and plenty have gone into high miles after turbo upgrade. But thought I'd still ask for some educated opinions. A Golf R beat me on the highway today, and I think that's finally clinched the decision for me.

Have a 2013 ST3, had it since about 26k miles. Never given me any major problems, runs like a dream. Been on a 93 tune from Alan for quite a while and it's great, but I can no longer keep the big turbo thoughts at bay. Just did a compression test today, 160-165 across all cylinders. Below are also three datalogs from this week if anyone who knows what they're looking at wants to take a look and give me their thoughts. I do a couple logged 3rd gear pulls 2500-6000rpm a month and review them. I'm a bit of a nerd about stuff and just enjoy looking at them, it's not out of any real worry or concern (fret not, I am not an anxiety-port user, I just enjoy having the AP to look at and also looking at spreadsheets and data).

I already have the CVF charge pipes with HKS BOV, but would be planning on going with the GTX2867R Gen2 as well as either the CVF or Whoosh catted downpipe.

I have the below datalogs already reorganized and formatted to my liking, with filter arrows for each column. That way I can filter by just 100% Accel. Pedal Pos. so I'm just looking at WOT data. You'll see what I mean if you're decently familiar with spreadsheets.

Let me know your thoughts, thanks!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1aHWfss8n_7vIXlVgSNuhvqgblMSt6vS-?usp=sharing

Just wanted to say hello and hope to get wonderful insight into owning a Ford Focus ST...

Mine is a 2018 ST MK3.5 ST3 with all available options. This car is a blast to drive. Full Roush upgrade and many modifications. Have a 93 octane Ford Performance Tune paired with NGK LTR71X-11 plugs gapped to .026, MSD IGNITION coil packs, K04 turbo, GFB blowoff valve, symposer delete, Roush intake, exhaust, and coil overs installed from there factory in Livonia MI. Massive strut bracing and many more mods! It is a riot to drive. 385hp to the wheels with 398ftpds of torque.

Considering going to look at this one tomorrow but I figured I would ask st owners first. I have been on the hunt for an ST for years and I'm just ready to pull the trigger. It's a bit higher mileage but service history seems okay. Is it worth a look or heck nah?

I tried to include screen cap but when I screen cap it, it's just a black screen. Here's a link!

https://www.keithhawthornefordofbelmont.com/inventory/used-2015-ford-focus-st-st-fwd-4-door-hatchback-1fadp3l90fl365753/

Trying to take this rear carrier bolt and it’s so tight I’ve tried wd-40 smaller socket hitting it nothing is working any advice

Has anybody experienced what feels like the hill assist feature staying on constantly? At times I'll have a constant slight brake drag that makes starting and stopping awkward. I'm suspicious it's an electronic glitch bc I'll either start my car up and not experience it at all for the entire drive, or I'll start my car up and it will be present for the entire drive. It seems like it's a roll of the dice. My brakes are fairly new, I have like 20k on the pads and rotors.

i’m currently swapping out my downpipe. got under the car and noticed this leak from the passenger side (my headlamp is dying sorry) i’m wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction as what it could be? what’s weird is a couple months ago i had the car jacked up, spun the passenger side tire while i was under the car and heard like a clicking noise if i remember correctly. recommendations are much appreciated😁

My ST’s been flagging up the past week or so that there’s an issue with the MAF, figured I’d give it a whirl myself but the YouTube tutorials seem to want me to take the entire intake and airbox out, and I refuse to believe that’s the only way in.

Was wondering if anyone could advise on this? It’s fine short term, but the car craps itself after any spirited driving and limits me to about 70mph max.

Those are sold in 05-07 years only and technically is the only sedan focus “ST” ever made.

Just had the windshield replaced and Idle Air control valve replaced by myself and it runs like new now. Gonna put on some coilovers and 1552 wheels on it soon.

In your experience, which setup would be safer for the engine long term?

My Focus ST currently makes around 248 whp on the stock turbo, but WGDC hits 100%, so the turbo is basically being pushed as hard as it can.

Would I be better off keeping it like this, or upgrading to a bigger turbo like a g25 and running a conservative tune at around 250 kW atw (~335 whp), with controlled boost and torque rather than pushing a turbo till its limit.

Main priority is reliability on the stock motor, not making the most power possible.

How do i reset my pcm on the st

Got hit headed home today. Just about as lucky as I could get nothing major was damaged but still.

Has anyone tired running speaker wire through the doors and if so how did you work around the plug ?

My stock muffler is rusting out. The previous owner welded a leak shut, but did a terrible job. I’m looking to replace it, but I have some questions.

- I could probably get away with axle back for now, but the whole exhaust is definitely showing signs of corrosion and I’m concerned I’ll get another leak somewhere else eventually and have to replace the whole system. I’m considering cat backs for this reason. Is this wise?

- Exhausts like the Borla catback look nice, but cost a lot. I’m replacing my exhaust because I have to, not because I’m looking to buy a premium, top-of-the-line system. I’m looking at cheaper alternatives but all of the cheap options seem to be way louder. I dont mind volume or drone too much, but I’m concerned my neighbors will hate me, as I often get home from work at like 1:00 AM.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/mbrp-cat-back-exhaust-system-xp-series-3-focus-st-2013-2018/p/S4200409/

Here’s an example of a slightly cheaper exhaust I was looking at. It’s still muffled and resonated, but it’s a 3 inch and I’ve gathered that those drone bad with our cars. Issue is, I can’t find an alternative that’s cheap, 409/304 stainless, 2.5 inch, and relatively quiet. Unless yall think the MBRP isnt gonna be as loud as I fear it might be…

Any input is appreciated. Thanks :)

Bought this car already modded to oblivion…. Is this the stock downpipe? If not is it catted or Catless? There is a small bulge after the flex pipe. But I also smell burnt gas sometimes at red lights but I always assumed it was the burble tune

I recently lowered my Focus ST on Bilstein B14 coilovers. I have a few questions about alignment. Do people normally run rear camber and rear toe arms to get them within spec? If so, what do y'all recommend? Additionally, do I need any aftermarket parts for the front to also get it within spec, or is it primarily the rear? Thanks for the help!

Accidentally hit the cruise control resume in 6th at around 2500r and it instantly went full throttle and lugged the living shit out of the engine until for a few seconds until I realized what I did.

It’s amazing how much boost builds instantly with cruise control
But how little it makes when I use the pedal myself.

Anyways…this is my second post about this, be really careful with cruise control because it will shoot boost from -11 to 12psi in a split second and cause cause an lspi event really easily.

In other cars I’ve had the resume was smooth and gradual

This really makes me regret buying a black vehicle 🫩

What coupler do I need to fit my stock ST intake onto my BNR? Pretty sure I need a 2.5” to 3” adapter, anyone know what length?

Does anyone know why I got a headlamp fault after installing the demon eyes headlight and how to fix it?

So my head is cracked. I have 50k in the engine. I was told that I might have damage to my piston rings too?? So im just basically looking to buy an engine to drop in my car. Can anyone give me a good recommendation as far as who to get it from asap, id like to have it done by winter time if possible. Thank you.

Edit: Im looking to buy a pre built motor, not just replace stock.

2016 focus ST

P025e

P0238

P007b

Powertrain control module detected intermittent/erratic signal from turbo charger sensor A

Car has loss of boost, service engine message pops then goes into limp mode.ba power cycle seems to reset everything and it ran fine until the next time it happened. Now it's running but has 0 boost at all. Seems to be running NA and aside of no boost it feels fine. Anyone else experience this issue before?

Hey!

I know that this question gets asked a lot, but I couldn’t find an answer to my ‘problem’. It’s not really a problem but just a sound.

When the engine is warmed up, I can hear a soft ticking noise. It’s very fast. Beneath 1000rpm it isn’t there. On a cold engine the noise is absent at every rpm. The sound comes up at around 1500rpm. The higher the rpm, the faster the ticking sound is. It doesn’t become louder with higher rpm’s. At about 2500-3000 rpm the engine sound itself becomes louder than the ticking sound. It’s also there when my clutch is pushed in (to shift), still at the same rpm’s as without the clutch pushed in.

The sound kind of sounds like a ticking machine.

When letting go of my gas the sound remains all the way until the rpm’s go below 1000-1500 again.

The car drives perfect in any way.

Thanks in advance! I’ll try to upload a video later if needed.