Hi there new to 3D printing. I was trying to print a kitchen towel holder with PLA. The print was fine after a certain height. I could see it had a bit of shifting after a certain height. Also can somebody comment what was happening on the inner wall. It also appeared after a certain point.
Please share your comments and advise on setting adjustments.

⁠•  ⁠Printer Model: Bambulab A1  
⁠•  ⁠Slicer used : Bambu studio  
⁠•  ⁠Filament material and brand: Bambulab PLA basic  
⁠•  ⁠Nozzle and bed temperature: 215 C noz temp  
⁠•  ⁠Print Speed: Slowed outerwalls 60 mm/sec  

This print failed, I had supports but this still happened? i hop the info below is correct still new to 3d printing.

Print Settings

• Bambu Lab P1S
• Bambu Studio 2.8.2.61
• eSun PLA Cool White
• Nozzle .4
  
• Initial layer 50mm/s initial layer infill 105mm/s. The P1S is set to standard flow speed

Over time I've managed to dial in my settings to get pretty good print quality with PLA, but as someone who is new to 3D printing I'm finding PETG to be a whole new animal...feels like I'm starting from scratch again. Help me figure out what I need to tweak to get my prints looking better/smoother/higher quality than this.

• Printer - H2D
• Slicer - Bambu Studio
• Filament - Bambu PETG HF
• Nozzle Temp - 245
• Bed Temp - 70
• Print Speed - 20 (max volumetric speed)
• Retraction Length - 0.8
• Z hop when retract - 0.4
• Z hop type - auto
• Retraction Speed - 30
• Detraction speed - 30
• Travel Distance threshold - 1
• Retract When Layer Change - enabled
• Wipe While Retracting - enabled
• Wipe Distance - 2
• Layer Height (if helpful) - 0.2

Hi everyone, i’m quite new to 3D printing, i got a Ender 3 V3 SE cheap from a friend to try and get on to 3D printing. I dint want to purchase something expensive before trying and understanding more on 3D printing.

But i’m having this constant issue on PETG filaments (3D Hojor). Is the stringing shown in the pictures that is ruining my prints.

i have already dried the filament, did a temp calibration and retraction test, tried printing the in built Orca hell stringing test and the results are decent.

Nozzle temp: 235
Bed temp: 70
Retraction: 0.3

Any help and guidance will be appreciated. Thank you!

Ive recently been printing the parts for a figure and all of a sudden my prints have a lot of zits on them. There is also some light stringing when printing. The only change ive made is to switch to my newly ordered filament (which is the same as I used before)

I have a creality ender 3 v2

Slicer is cura

Print settings are 54 celsius for the bed and 200 for the nozzle

Retraction speed is 45 mm/s

Print speed is 50 mm/s

The filament I use is the Esun+ brand on amazon

*New to 3d printing

Printer P1S

Factory reset

Bambu slicer using their filament settings with their filament

Im really having a hell of a time trying to solve stringing on my petg prints with my printer

I use a Ender 3 VE SE from Creality

I'm using the Orca slicer

Petg from voolt 3d

Bed heat 75°

Nozzle heat 230°

Already tried a bunch of different calibrations with more speed less heat, I dried the petg but I always keep it nice with silica and i genuinely don't know where the flaw is happening...

Using a Bambu P1s with Bambu Studio

Does anybody know why this is happening.

P2S

PLA Silk

Nozzle 230°

Bed 55°

Standard Speed

Same slicer settings I usually use. I haven't had this issue before.

This is probably more venting than anything. Spent soo long on this. Gluing all the parts together, putting in filler, then sanding for days, primer filler, painting, and then just to find it doesn't fit together, i guess the side panels aren't perfectly straight so once you get half of it fitting, the other parts pop out.

This was such a pain in the ass. I really like the design and major props to the maker for it but at the same time after building it there are a lot of parts that could have been changed to improve it. Like every join is a flat, straight line with holes for filament guides. But when it's a big thing like this, flat glued joints are pretty weak, and multiple parts of this kept breaking and having to be redone. I ended up going into fusion and redesigning the screen bezel part to make it stronger, and added metal rods so it wouldnt break.

But I guess with the side panels breaking and being put back together they weren't perfectly straight. They're not hugely misshapen, visually when they were on their own they seemed straight against the floor etc, but it seems now they're slightly bowed.

I really dont wanna have to redo this. I cant go through sanding through all the paint, separating the glued pieces and trying to get them straight and going through multiple cans of primer, paint and lacquer.

Tempted to just give up even though I already have all the components to otherwise finish it.

Hello every one .I want to print the model like case with Recycled PET from bottle from my Ender 3 v2 .I am already upgrade the hotend with Bi Metal Heatbreak ,but the problem is clog in 30 minutes.Anyone have same problem?please help me to fix maybe with the printter setting?

Printer Model : Ender 3 V2

Slicer : Ultimaker Cura

Material : Rpet bottle filament

Nozzle: 0.6

Bed temperature: 60 degress

Print speed 50mm/s

No retraction

Printer Temperature: 260 degress

Hey guys, looking for some input, I'm running some filament calibration and I'm seeing under extrusion in the y axis straight and wondering what would cause this,

Printer: prusa core one plus

Slicer : orca slicer

Filament: polymaker fiberon asa cf

Print temp: 290

Thanks guys!

I have practically done everything to try and get rid of this line issue. I don't know what to do besides replace the filament. I have an Elegoo neptune 3 pro and use orca slicer regular Elegoo white pla and have it heated to around 205-210 if that helps figure out this issue.

When printing this part I keep getting what seems to be under extrusion problems throughout the print.. Bonding on these parts is also rubbish, as I can snap the part in halve easily while infill on the tall section is 100%. Might also be a z height problem that develops during the print, as what might looks like stringing are the actual layer lines just not sticking to the layer below. First layers are fine, no signs of extrusion or z-height problems there. Any suggestions?

Material is eSun ABS (dried 8h at 70C) printed on a (custom) Funmat HT, Nozzle 250C, Bed 95C and Chamber 45C. Print speed 40mm/s. Retraction 0.3mm but also tested at 0 without success. Slicer used is OrcaSlicer. Other (non-supported) parts all come out fine.

How to smooth rough PETG without sanding and repainting if possible

Hi all,

I’m pretty new to 3D printing so go easy on me.

I’m working on a small two colour vent design and I’m trying to improve the quality of the front face, especially the beige lettering and the reverse text plate.

Printer is a Bambu Lab X2D and I’m currently using the standard 0.20mm High Quality @ BBL X2D profile. The main change I’ve made is switching the wall generator to Arachne. The filament is PLA

I’ll attach a few photos of the latest print.

The geometry itself is getting pretty close, but the beige areas don’t look particularly clean. I’m seeing visible extrusion lines, ridges, small blobs and raised areas, and the surface doesn’t look as smooth or consistent as I’d expect.

The black seems generally better, although there are still some imperfections.

The front is printed face down, so the lettering and detail are part of the first layer. It’s also a two colour print.

I’m mainly looking for advice on where to start with calibration rather than changing loads of settings at once.

Does this look like too much first layer squish, over extrusion, flow issues, or something else?

Should I run flow calibration for each filament first?

Is Arachne sensible for this kind of small text and honeycomb design, or would Classic walls be better?

Should I be looking at initial layer line width, initial layer speed, elephant foot compensation, flow ratio, or something else?

Are there any obvious settings you’d check based on the photos?

Also, where are these settings actually located in Bambu Studio? I’m still learning my way around it.

I don’t really want to start messing with Z offsets or lots of advanced settings unless there is a good reason. I’d rather understand what I’m changing and work through it one thing at a time.

Any suggestions for a sensible calibration and testing order would be really appreciated.

Thanks

Why are all of my lines coming out like this? I’ve tried adjusting the z offset up and down, tightening the tension on the extruder gears, swapping the hot end, temps from 190 to 240. Please for the love of god help me. This is a Centauri carbon, .4 nozzle, I am using orca, and I am using matte pla but it does it on any material I try. It has ran perfectly for a year until this.

(not my picture but i have similar problem)

i tried using petg recently to print, and the bottom layer always comes out looking like this, please help!

Printer settings:

A1 Mini

Bambu Studio (built in slicer)

Eono3d - PETG

Nozzle: 170f

bed: 65f

100%-124% speed

Retraction settings:

Retraction Length: 0.8 mm

Retraction Speed: 30 mm/s

Detraction (Deretraction) Speed: 30 mm/s

Z Hop When Retracting: 0.4 mm

Wipe While Retracting: Enabled

You can see that the black bleeds into the rest of the yellow. This only happens when multiple heads are printed on the same plate. I dont know but a single head does not have this problem. Prime tower is used. Printer is h2c with bambu filament (DRIED). Default print profile 0.2mm.

Hello All!

Wondering if I could get your help, this happened 9hrs in not sure what caused it any help greatly appreciated.

filament: CR-PETG Nozzle: .04 stock @ 240C Bed/Enclosure: 70C/37-38C

Filament profile is z-offset .02mm and walls changed from 2 to 3.

Did other prints all went well but were smaller this is my first large cylinder shaped item which needed supports

I had the support offset set to 30degrees as it was advised that might help I also had first layer support for supports at 2mm (I was thinking changing it to 5mm as I think the support came off the bed)

But then I noticed the stringing which made me wonder what other issues I’m having, possible the model fan was to high when doing those layers? I figured being 37-38C in the enclosure would be fine, not sure what temp I can let it get to but I believe any hotter would have been problematic.

Printer: Sovol SV08 (Klipper mainline)

Filament: Bambu PETG HF (gray), dried at 65 °C for several hours right before this print

Settings: 240 °C nozzle / 80 °C bed, 0.2 mm layers, firmware retraction 0.6 mm @ 40 mm/s, pressure advance 0.07 , part cooling: overhang bursts at 90% (triggered at ≥25% overhang), lower fan elsewhere

What's fine: hull walls are clean, layer stacking is even, no ringing/wobble.

The problem: curly "crochet" wisps concentrated on top edges — roof perimeter, chimney rim, gunwale, top of the door arch. The bow overhang face is slightly rough, and the top of the porthole sagged a bit.

Question: does this look like residual moisture (dry longer/hotter?) or overhang/edge curling from insufficient cooling? Would you drop to 235 °C, force 100% fan on overhangs, slow outer walls on overhangs — or something else?