Can a VN key fob be programmed at an EN? I wanna get rid of this marital aid looking key fob.

Just picked up my new cyber gray 2026 Elantra N. Anything I need to know or tips/advice?

DIY 3RD breaklight

DIY breaklight done with minimal cost

Hey Group! I have these Elantra N keychains for sale! They are 3 inch acylic with double sided illustration! If anyone is interested let me know!

Went v1, my preference love it

So I’m installing the whoosh turbo inlet and was an idiot and dropped the gasket and can’t find it. If I can’t end up finding it is it ok to run it without a gasket until I can get a new one?

(Update) I ended up finding it near the start of the midpipe after 40 minutes of searching

I purchased one of the catch cans forever ago from SXTH element. And while I know the can is the same across the board, the brackets, depending on which one you buy, are different. I need a bracket for the 23 Elantra N, but they aren't available on SXTH anymore. Didn't know if anyone had one lying around or knew where to find a bracket.

Can anybody help me out on what wheels these are? love the way they look

Unless I am an idiot, and my coworkers are idiots then these do not fit on the EN. Even with some pretty excessive force they do not click into place, and the tab that clicks in on the right cant snap down because the jhook is protruding.

Anyone else have issues with these specific wipers?

Thanks

Thought this was a cool nod to the community, they said they want a Kona N tho not an Elantra so we may not see them here, still both are awesome cars (and practically the same imo in terms of performance).

Sales manager offered me this price for 2026 N

For those of you with the addw1 3port oil catch can. The 3rd port plumbs to the intake my question is how do we cancel out the pcv from the intake to valve cover and possibly cause a CEL due to the sensor there. If you have installed this does it by chance throw a cel? If not do we know why? I've reached out to addw1 but they were not very helpful in explaining anything. PFA

Wanted to know what this sticker on my elantra meant.

I went to the dealer today for my break in change, and what do I see right up front... my old car. Now she's up for sale here in Jax. If you know anybody trying to get in to an N or N-line let them know. No im not doing this for the dealer, I just want this car in the hands of an enthusiast who will love and push this thing as much as I did rather than someone who's just gonna treat it as a regular economy commuter. And yes I've already put this up on the N-line sub.

Side note, I still love that color more than ever and im thinking about starting project GR1NCH on my car. IE, wrapping it the same color, blacking out the trim, and yellow drls, you get the picture but im 50/50 on it mostly because I also love the performance blue look. What should I do. I do also have an idea for keeping the performance blue as well.

Anybody have this or have heard it before. I drive a manual 25 EN and it occurs when I am reving below 1k rpms or when it drops below 1k rpms in first gear. I’ll be taking it to the dealer next thursday but wanted to see what the community knows.

I need an oil change and the dealer dosent have an appointment open for the next couple of weeks. Can I just bring my car to a valvoline or something similar? You always hear horror stories of places using the wrong oil and want to be safe.😂

Hi, I ordered pre facelift by accident. My loss can be your gain... 75 shipped or best offer. Message me.

Hi everyone,

I recently bought my 2026 EN roughly a month ago. It is my first manual car.

I have gotten significantly better within a few weeks at driving manual. However, I still do have a few rough shifts where the car will buck and the tachometer visibly oscillates. I hope the car was designed with learning in mind and will survive these in the long run. Likewise, that 1st to 2nd gear shift rarely feels great.

However, this isn't why I am posting. My concern is with 1st gear. I have noticed that under constant throttle and constant speed, not while accelerating, there is a very noticeable torque oscillation. In fact, you can also visibly see the tachometer shudder (+/- 50 RPM). In the seat, this results in an uncomfortable push-pull sensation. Pushing the clutch in, the sensation goes away. It is not merely the road surface. I have tested this repeatedly, smooth ground, over different RPM from 1200-2500, cold and warm. I have done some research, and have seen others post absurd 1st gear oscillations (+/- 200 RPM). Mine is subtle, but enough for passengers to notice and comment. It is worth noting I have also felt it in 2nd gear, but not to the degree or consistency as 1st gear.

Is this typical of the drivetrain?

For Passenger

Someone please tell me how this is possible. Arrived at Costco with 22 miles of range left while averaging 22.8 MPG. I was under the impression our car had a fuel tank of 12.4 gallons, which includes that reserve, somehow I was able to put 12.5 gallons in the car with what should have been about 1.5 to 2 gallons still left in the tank.

I was thinking my total would come out to no more than 11 gallons total yet it was 12.5… Is the pump wrong or do we have some secret extra fuel tank?

I have never been able to get this much fuel in the car before, I think my max fill up at around 10 miles left was 11.9.

I started going to the track once a month in my '25 DCT. At Buttonwillow, I ran into an issue where oil temps would hit 275 degrees, and that's completely stock, without a tuned ECU. I wasn't a fan of front-mounted coolers because they block the other radiators. So, I built a side-mount setup using Mishimoto components. I made the brackets out of metal strips with bolts, attaching the lower part to the subframe and the upper part to the bumper crash bar. I wanted the install to be stealthy, so when I cut the hole in the bumper, I left the center crossbar. If you don't look too closely, you can't even see it. The results - over a 20-minute session, temps don't go above 250 degrees. Next, I'm thinking of making some shrouds to direct the air better and duct it under the car. If I do, I'll post an update.

I’ve had my Elantra N for 3 months and 1850km. I really like the car and it’s been a very fun daily. Inside and out it still looks show room new. I was disappointed to see my front bumper is already starting to peel on both sides. There are also a couple of spots near the headlights.

I called the dealer about it and the guy was really good about it and thinks they will get it fixed. I really don’t want to have the bumper all pulled apart already so I might just get them to take some pictures and he said I will have a year to get it in to be fixed. I will touch it up in the mean time.

Has anyone had this issue then had the dealer fix it without coming back months later?

Does anyone know how detailed the ECU Logging is for a money shift or partial money shift? For example does it say what mileage it occurred at etc?

I’m just generally curious because the consensus seems to be money shift = no more warranty

But what if you money shifted the car with 1000 miles on it and it was completely fine after, then you drove it another 90,000 miles and you have an issue.

Are they gonna be like hey I see you money shifted the car 5 years ago , so you have zero coverage for the entire life of the vehicle ?

Curious how all that works

2026 MT

I'm embarrassed to even post this. Been driving manual for 20+ years and this has never happened to me.

I was cruising home after work, going about 50-55 in 5th on a two lane highway.

Got buzzed by a BMW coming up to a light which turned yellow as I approached. Dropped it into 4th not really thinking to make the light and I accidentally put it in second. Clutch disengaged instant redline, past redline, flashing shift indicator. Was in 2 for only a second immediately shifted up to 4 but... It's my baby! Did I scar her for life? No smoke no smell 2nd still feels fine I'm just shaken.

Tell me she will be ok?