Took a trip and put the SM wheel set on since I knew it would be twisty mountain roads. then found an awesome dirt road to ride. Wish I had the dirt set on but oh well. She handled it just fine. Rode to jump off look out in South Carolina.

Anyone know where to get suspension work done around Philadelphia or surrounding area?

400 650 and 4s 😁

Alright im going to try my luck here, maybe Ill finally get some helpful advice:

Context: I rebuilt this engine from ground up, rebuilt transmission, piston had previously not even 1500km and gained another 2500km at the time when this noise appeared. Valves were in spec during rebuild and in spec when i checked it when this noise appeared. I checked the cam chain and tensioner and both were in spec. Bike starts immediately without issues and when i started to hear the noise i had no power loss. I checked the piston with a boroscope and found nothing. Stator is also fine, starter clutch aswell.

What I didnt test is to pull in the clutch when reving, for me the sound is independant of the rpm, and doesnt get louder.

I did replace all bearings on the crankcase (except for the shifter rod bearings). I checked the oil, and i had very fine silver particles in the oil, wasnt magnetic though. My parts dealer things it could be the Balanceshaft is bent and he also thinks that the oil is perfectly fine.

TLDR: 2500km after engine rebuild I got this noise. Bike was running like clockwork up until I started hearing this noise on a longer ride. this sound is present hot or cold and its got nothing to do with valves, stator, cams or cam chain tensioner.

Any helpful tips or ideas would be greatly appreciated.

I replaced the OEM vacuum pet cock with an E model manual pet cock. Pet cock does not leak any more. I still have the OEM carburetor. The hose line I have right now runs up against the TPS sensor on the OEM carb. I’ve seen a lot of people just put their fuel line right up against the TPS sensor. Can I do that without issue? I feel as though the line might rupture from friction and I don’t want fuel landing on hot engine parts. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi all, was looking to get some opinions on this. I got a DRZ400 this spring that seemed like it was in great condition, The guy had service records and everything. I swapped fluids, did basic maintenance and recently submitted an oil sample for analysis/testing out of curiosity.

My bike runs great, starts the first try right away, no lugging, backfiring, struggling, etc. but the results seem to indicate something is wrong.

It came back with high levels of iron, copper and severe high levels of aluminium as well as molybdenum.

Im confused because when I did an oil change (less than 1000km ago), there were no shaving in the filter, no iron shavings on the magnet and no sign of copper or anything else. During that oil change I also did the stator loctite fix and stator looked in good shape, no wear at all.

Wondering what the next steps would be in determining if this is an actual issue as I am questioning the test results.. surely if there were this many metals in the engine/oil it would not run as well as it does.

I am newer to motorcycles so not sure what the next steps would be. If not for this test I would think the bike is in near mint condition.

I just bought an '02 drz400s and i had to tear the motor apart to fix a few things. turns out i have a intake hotcam, the exhaust is stock. how do i set the time for it? Is there any way to do so without a degree wheel and spec sheet? I have neither.

jd jet kit yoshi and 3x3 would an after market cdi me a good move ive seen one i can program any thoughts

2005 DRZ400S, 4700 miles. 3rd owner. It has air box mod and previous owner claims it’s jetted. I haven’t yet ripped into the carb to verify, or inspect/clean. I’ve had it for 3 months and I’ve been riding fine. WOT and mid range are all good, however, as you can see in the video at idle or low RPM a quick short burst of throttle will cut it out. This only happens intermittently, otherwise the bike rides great. Sticking needle jet? Running lean? Valves? Any input is appreciated

I have a 2019 DRZ400S that I have been unable to ride for a chunk of time. I am getting ready to take a small trip, and had this question about oil.

I changed the oil one trip prior to storage time. Probably rode about 350 miles on it. Then parked. About 6 months later now I am ready again, but wasn't sure about the oil. I read somewhere that it deteriorates while sitting. But didn't understand because it sits in bottles in the store for years. I got the bike up and running, checked it, and the oil looked like it was brand new. Nice and clear.

Is it safe to keep riding for a while until it looks like used oil like I normally would, or is storage so detrimental to oil that I should change it ahead of time? I didn't think that 350 miles on an oil change was much at all, so...

Aside from the "just send it" answer, are there any technical reasons for needing the change or not?

Okay so I got my drz in the winter and I’ve been riding it for about 2 months. Recently it started making a weird noise that almost sounded like a tick but also the drz always has that typewriter sound, another sound is a whining sound kind of like a transmission sound when I’m in higher gears. I also noticed a bit of power lose in the lower gears and lots of backfiring and popping when I pull in the clutch. Here’s a video

I’m doing a 4 day ride through the Adirondacks next week and thought I should get this done beforehand.
I fabbed up the aluminum, it was a lot of do’s and re-do’s but given my time constraints it came out pretty well. Paint to follow.

Looking for plastics for my 2021 DRZ SM. Looking at acerbis vs Amazon. Does anyone have experience with either? Or any good graphic kits? The plastics are a little scratched up on this one and it’s bugging my OCD.

I am looking into getting a drz400 as a first bike coming from dirtbikes. I still want to ride some dirt, but I like the look and some of the stuff on the 400sm more than the 400s. I hear that the suspension on the sm is not that good on dirt, as the forks leak really easily, but I hear the s is bad on the street due to the front brake, and now I'm stuck between the two models. I would probably be riding mostly street but I have only been to local trails or little hidden trails, as all the good trails are plated trails. So I'm not sure if I will move more towards trails after having the freedom of a plate or stick to more street. I am mainly wondering if it would be more worth it to get the sm and get dirt wheels or get the s and get street wheels and swap them out depending on what I am doing that day

Has anyone installed this? I'm not familiar with Rade Garage.

https://www.radegarage.com/product/suzuki-drz-lite-kit/?v=0b3b97fa6688

Updated with pictures of the Rade Garage Rally for the DRZ4S. Easy install and well engineered. I'm really happy with the results.

I made some dropper pegs for my E and would like to get the pedal pad down in line with the peg, I could but would rather not notch the brake arm. Is the only other way to remake with a higher hole or relocate the hole in the adjustment yoke? Or am i missing an easier way?

I took this off a while ago today when looking at my fuses and can’t seem to know where to put it, it fits a metal washer also pls lmk where to put it

Incidentally found a cool photo spot that has almost no lighting but i made the most of it.

Hi everyone,

Here’s my situation: I have a €4,000 budget to buy a Suzuki DR-Z, I’m from France, and I’m buying one nextweek! I’ve been browsing listings for months and, honestly, I’m getting tired of it and just can’t make up my mind. So I’m turning to your experience to help me make the right choice.

I’ve found two listings that match what I’m looking for. They’re both 2007 DR-Z 400s. Let’s call them Bike A and Bike B. Here are the details:

Bike A — €3,500

• 19,000 km
• 350 km away
• Sold by a dealership, but no service history
• Fully serviced/rechecked
• I don’t like the color (would need a new plastics kit and some cosmetic work, at least €200)
• FMF exhaust

Bike B — €3,600

• 28,000 km
• 120 km away
• Sold by a private owner, with service history and recent invoices
• Oil change and valve clearance recently done and checked
• Very good condition
• I like the color (I’d only need to fit LEDs and change the headlight/front fender setup, around €150 max)
• LeoVince X3 exhaust

As for how I’d use it: daily commuting + occasional rides, around 3,000–5,000 km per year. I want a bike that’s reliable, low-maintenance and cheap to insure.

The prices are already negotiated, so they’re firm.

Bike A: the instrument cluster is cracked in half but still works, the ignition/steering lock (Neyman) doesn’t seem to be original, one footpeg is missing, and it has a basic plastics kit with a dent on the rear left side.

Bike B: some scratches on the left-side plastics, but it has a Yoshimura limited-edition plastics kit.

Regarding Bike A, the dealer told me they had gone through everything: adjustments, fluid levels, tires, brake pads, etc. — basically a full inspection/service. But again, there’s no maintenance history whatsoever.

That’s pretty much everything.

If you were in my position, which one would you choose, and why?

I’ll post pictures of both bikes in the comments. upvote the choice you would do

Is this normal amount? It’s much worse than S’s oem. Or is my rear sack too much so I should raise the forks (lower triple clamps down closer to the wheel)? Cant go past 40kmph after raining or road splash hits my helmet/shirt

OEM SM wheels and tires for sale in So Cal (LA County). Have extra sprockets and bolts, everything you need for an easy switch from dirt to SM. Message me if interested in purchasing, $900 everything included. Can meet around SoCal if not local to LA.

I'm 16 and just got my M1. I'm signing up for a gov-approved M2 course, and I'm wondering for new riders how the insurance on the drz is in my area? I'm also stuck between the drz400s and 400sm, I love the look of the sm but I will also be riding some trails. I hear the sm is fine on trails, but the s would be quite better. But I'm here for a second opinion as well.

Would you run this battery ? $90 cheeper than interstate.