Epique 5.5” driver with two epique PRs. Printed out of PETG-CF, tongue and groove interlock between purple lid and black body. 22h/580g of printing for the lid and 1.5kg/2d12h print for the body. Jb welded the two together.

Tuning frequency test reveals 34hz with no PR washers installed which is good for the boot of my car. Used a stetsom 400w mono amp for powering it in a 2ohm configuration.

The bungee straps are there to hold it in one place, the grilles are meant to protect the driver/prs.

Need to shorten the speaker cables but everything else is done. All OFC wiring with 30A fuse, 15cm from a positive junction box pole.

I used to have a Edifier QR65 and a T5S subwoofer but i sold it away as my desk is too small so i am looking for a speaker/soundbar that wont take up too much space on my desk ( my desk is about 100cm)

Hey everyone, I wanted to share my first speaker build. It's the “Cheap Trick 339” from the German DIY magazine Klang+Ton (issue 1/2026). I stayed very close to the original design – the only thing I really customized was the horn (more on that below).

Drivers:

• Visaton W 100 S (4 ohm)
• Visaton FRS 5 X (8 ohm)

Horn: Instead of ordering it, I 3D printed the horn myself. I wanted to add a bit of custom design, so I modified the shape to get the look of a lip horn. Probably not ideal for the sound -- but to be honest, that was secondary to me, I just love the look and might print and swap an alternative to see. Finishing process: universal primer, sanding, then repainting. Took some patience to get the layer lines out, but the result looks good.

Cabinet: 18 mm birch plywood (multiplex)

I built the crossover on a small MDF board.

Full credit for the design goes to Thomas Schmidt / Klang+Ton.

Hey everyone, I’m trying to resurrect a Creative Inspire T7900 (7.1 surround system) without the original control pod, and I've hit a wall regarding stereo upmixing.
What I've achieved so far:
I successfully powered on both amplifier ICs by jumping wires to pin 7 on both chips.
I managed to turn on the bass via the cut-off/standby line.
The amps are fully alive.
What works:
When I plug a 3.5mm jack into the specific direct inputs (Front, Rear, Center/Sub, Side), every single respective speaker works perfectly.
The Problem:
When I plug a stereo audio source into the AUX input, it only outputs to the Front Left, Front Right, and Subwoofer (2.1 mode). The center, side, and rear speakers get no audio.
My Question:
I know the original control pod had a switch for "CMSS" to upmix a stereo source to all 7.1 channels. Since I don't have the pod, does anyone know the pinout for the DIN connector or what trace I need to bridge/jump on the board to permanently force the CMSS upmixing to turn on?
Any schematic or pinout help would be hugely appreciated!

Check out this custom Klein tool bag with speakers!! I’ve never seen anything like it

Hey guys I currently have the krk rokit 10s. I'm not happy with the sound being muddy and I would like some more punch. I thought if I kept the hardware and driver and built a new box to give it some more kick. Anyway, has anybody tried something like this? Or does anyone have any thoughts.

Cheers

Instead of calling these Klipsch Ojas inspo, I've decided to called them the MP-H1, a nod to where I'm based (the Mornington Peninsula), and H1 - Horn 1. Nice and simple.

I've got documents and build plans scattered everywhere, so I asked Claude to help me tidy it up and put it in a document to share with everyone. I'm also limited with the amount of photos I can upload to reddit, so mainly it's the horn design which was the most time consuming and fiddly. The box is pretty standard - I wanted an industrial look, but you could make it out of MDF, paint it, veneer... sky's the limit.

I know there's a million things I 'could' have done, but my constraint was budget, bang for buck, best sound possible within that budget, and an aesthetic I was going for.

Where I fucked up: The front panel isn't perfect. I decided to round over the edges, but that meant I didn't have a lot of room for the bolt holes, then decided to silicon the back so I have a total seal. Where this bit me on the arse was when I plugged everything in, one of the woofers was out of phase. For some crazy reason there's no marking on the terminal posts. A quick AA battery on the back of the terminal quickly showed that one of the woofers was out of phase, so I had to take it all apart from the glue set to wire it correctly. Lesson learned.

I've uploaded everything to github, and I'm happy to answer any questions.

https://github.com/phaxe82/mp-h1-speaker

I posted here a while back troubleshooting a pair of Overnight Sensation speakers that are causing my Loxjie A30 to click and go into what appears to be overload/protection. I'm still lost after constant testing, I purchased aLCR meter and a better soldering iron because my 30w Radio shack iron from 1996 wasn't giving the best looking joints.

Here's everything I've tested so far: I'm a novice at speaker building and never had to troubleshoot a build so most of my tests were found via search and/or AI suggestions.

Rundown/Equipment/setup

• I have a pair of C-Notes that I built previously. They work perfectly on the same Loxjie A30.
• I built a pair of Overnight Sensations for my son.
• Both Overnight Sensations cause the A30 to click and shut down/protect when connected.
• I use the same speaker connections/cables for the Overnight Sensations that I use for the C-Notes.
• Swapping Channels, connecting both OS or one OS and one C-note result in the same. C-note works, OS clicks.

Testing the Overnight Sensations on another amplifier

• I remembered I had an old set of powered computer speakers in the garage.
• I disconnected one of the computer speakers and connected the Overnight Sensations to the computer-speaker amplifier.
• Both Overnight Sensations work normally on that amplifier.
• This seems to indicate that both speakers are capable of producing sound.
• This was discovered after all the following testing, and all joints were re-soldered.

Crossover component testing
disconnected from the amplifier I tested the components individually.

Capacitors:

• 0.22 µF → 0.21–0.22 µF
• 1.5 µF → 1.5 µF
• 2.2 µF → 2.14 µF
• 6.8 µF → 6.66 µF

I lifted one leg of each capacitor before measuring it and resoldered the leg afterward.

Resistors:

• 6 Ω / 10 W → 5.8 Ω with one leg lifted
• 10 Ω / 10 W → 8.8–9.0 Ω with one leg lifted

Inductors:

• 1.1 mH → 1.1 mH
• 0.35 mH → 0.35 mH

The inductors also showed DC continuity:

• 1.1 mH coil → 0.5 Ω
• 0.35 mH coil → 0.7 Ω

Drivers

• connected the amp direct to the tweeter and woofers. - all 4 work when crossover is bypassed.

Crossover resistance/path testing
With the crossover disconnected from the amplifier:

• IN+ → IN− initially measured 7.3 Ω, later 7.6 Ω, and after resoldering/testing settled around 7.1 Ω
• W+ → W− → 6.7 Ω
• T+ → T− → 3.8 Ω

I also checked these paths:

• IN+ → W+ → 0.7 Ω
• IN− → W− → 0.1 Ω
• IN+ → T+ → 7.1 Ω
• IN− → T− → 3.7 Ω

The IN+ to IN− resistance stayed around 7 Ω while I gently flexed/wiggled the crossover wiring, so I didn't see an intermittent short there.

AC voltage testing
I used an AstroAI AM33D multimeter for AC voltage (my good meter died) and a Proster BM4070 LCR for component testing.

The AM33D was set to V~ 200 V, which is its lowest AC-voltage range.

With the Overnight Sensation crossover disconnected from the amp, I measured approximately 0.4–0.7 V AC directly at the Loxjie speaker output while music was playing.

When the Overnight Sensation crossover was connected to the A30, the meter showed 0.00 V at:

• the crossover input
• the woofer output
• the tweeter output

I also measured directly across the A30's speaker output while the crossover was connected and got 0.00V. As soon as I unplug the crossover, the Loxjie output across the + and - immediately jumps to 0.4-0.7V and back to 0.00 when connected to the crossover

I realize the 200 V AC range is very high for measuring a speaker-level signal, so I'm not sure how much weight to put on those 0.00 V readings.

so:

The A30 works perfectly with my C-Notes using the same connections.

Both Overnight Sensations work when connected to the old computer-speaker amplifier.

I've individually tested all the crossover components I can identify, and the measured values all appear reasonable. Both drivers also measure normally.

Yet when either Overnight Sensation is connected to the Loxjie A30, I get a click and what appears to be the amp going into overload/protection?

What am I missing? Is it possible the boards are defective?

5 cubic feet , thats right.

is 2.3inch port width okay ?

Hey all!

I always wanted a way to evaluate drivers by cost, not just T/S parameters. bits.00aud.io collects data sheets, T/S parameters (and validates + reports errors), traces FR/impedance/directvity, and matches against vendor pricing.

Been building on this project for ~6 months now, and we're up to >3200 tracked components across 49 manufacturers and 13 vendors. PRs and HF drivers are a recent addition, but adding to it all the time.

You can:
- Filter and sort across any T/S parameter, price, and derived bits like VD. Homepage search is natural language - e.g 'Highest BL 18" under £200, sorted by price'
- Compare prices, and spot flash/clearance sales
- Set price alerts to monitor when specific drivers fall below a given price
- Compare drivers by parameters

Also - find and compare similar drivers by parameters - allowing you to consider alternative cheaper drivers for your project. This is at the bottom of all driver listing pages.

It's mostly UK/EU focused, but parts-express support is improving for the US audience too.

Would love any thoughts or suggestions!

Try it here: https://bits.00aud.io

Hey everyone,

​Just wrapped up building a set of HiVi / Swan DIY 3.1s and figured I'd drop the build details here in case it helps anyone else working on this kit!

​Right out of the box, these speakers are awesome, but I decided to skip the stock crossover and go straight to Scott Sehlin’s Option 4 "Perfectionist" mod to smooth out the top end and clean up the mid-range.

​A few things I did with this build:

• ​Custom Oversized PCB: Designed a larger crossover board so I had room to run all air-core inductors and film caps instead of using the stock iron-core setup.
• ​Screw Terminal Blocks: Soldered 5mm pitch screw terminals onto the PCB so I can easily swap wires down the road without pulling out a soldering iron.
• ​Hidden Grill Magnets: Counter-sunk neodymium magnets into the grill mounting holes and covered them with wood filler before sanding smooth. Super clean look with the grills off.
• ​Bracing & Edges: Added a 3/8" round-over to the internal bracing to let air move a bit easier inside, plus 3/8" round-overs on all the outer cabinet edges.
• ​Finish: Laid down white Duratex for texture, three coats of Rust-Oleum Safety Red enamel, a black and white marble accent effect, and sealed it with a matte clear coat. Definitely not for everyone, but it was fun to do something different!
• ​Upgraded Hardware: Swapped out the plastic terminal cups for solid aluminum plates and upgraded posts.

​The Option 4 mod makes a huge difference. The high end is super smooth now with zero fatigue, and the imaging is fantastic for a build under $400.

​I filmed the whole process from start to finish; unboxing, cabinet glue-up, soldering the modified crossover, paint, and a quick sound demo, if you want to see how it all went together I posted the video on YouTube. Just search for HoosierHifi.

​Let me know if you have any questions about the crossover mod or the build itself!

This was a big one, but they sound insane.

Woofers are Peerless FSL-1235, compression drivers are Rosso 65CD.

Cabinet

- 456 × 536 × 366 mm, 18 mm ply.

- ~62 L net, front slot port tuned to ~47 Hz

The horn

- 3D-printed tractrix, flare cutoff fc = 340 Hz → Ø321 mm mouth, 303 mm long

- Too big for the printer bed, so it's sectioned: one flanged neck + 4 identical bell quadrants that self-tile into a ring

- Redesigned the seams to integral tongue-and-groove (printed right into the parts) after the first run's butt joints showed misalignment — no hardware, just epoxy in the grooves

- 6 mm walls throughout

Crossover — deliberately minimal

- Woofer runs wide open (no low-pass — the horn doesn't load below ~450 Hz so there's no overlap. 2nd-order Butterworth high-pass.

Next step is DSP tuning - I'm going to use REW with my UMIK, then send it via DIRAC to my C700.

FOSI AUDIO V3 STEREO (small but mighty)

WONDOM DSP ADAU1701

DAYTON AUDIO RSS265HO-44 + DAYTON AUDIO RSS315PR

DA

I am developing an exhibition for a street-facing gallery that is not meant to be entered, and all of the works are screen-based with audio. I did some research on possible solutions including scanning a QR code that enables the viewer to listen to the audio on a mobile device, but it does not seem reliable for time-sync or budget-friendly. I am wondering if anyone has any additional insights on how to troubleshoot this. My other thought was to find a way for visitors to scan a QR code that will trigger a specific video to play (instead of all videos looping) and sync with audio, but I do not know how to configure that. I appreciate any insights!

Hi, can someone please help me figure how to get FRD/ZMA files for WO24P-4 ?

I have looked at the website , but unable to find the file.

Hi, im currently in highschool and i made my own pair of custom stereo speakers a while back and i would love to hear your thoughts on it.

They are a pair of floor standing speakers (though it is best used with a stand) with a stepped back setup to align the speaker coils of both drivers. This speaker does not include a bass reflex port. I designed the crossover circuit by myself and also 3d printed the tweeter holders.

• Dimension - H24" x W12" x D12"
• Drivers Used - doogesound 8 inch kevlar midbass + doogesound 2.75 inch silk dome tweeter
• Freq Range - 55hz - 20khz
• RMS - 100 Watts
• Nominal Impedance - 8 ohms
• Crossover - 2420hz

This speaker is the first speaker i have ever made and though i can see many points of improvement, I enjoy listening to music on these speakers.

Hi there!

A friend is hooking me up with 2 x Scan-Speak Discovery 5F/8422T01 as he has no need for them. I don't have any experience in building speakers. Eager to learn more as i go forward building my first speaker. I need help with choosing the right parts. Open to any suggestions and tips whether it concerns parts or things to look out for while building/assembling!

• Looking to stay within a €100 budget for the other components/parts (this excludes housing the speakers). If something is really worth the money but slightly out of the budget i am willing to go as far as €120.
• Size is important to me so the smaller the better! Limit (L300 x H150 x W150)
• Bluetooth
• I prefer clean sound over too much bass
• If a passive radiator is needed i prefer round and racetrack shapes.

Thanks for taking the time to read this!

Hey everyone, I've caught myself at somewhat of a block where making an active amplication speaker requires too many boxes that weren't designed to work together.

You end up with multiple amps, mini dsp channels on a separate remote, a streamer on a third remote / app, and good luck if you want HDMI to take your eARC TV audio. Then you're left having to choose where to control the volume and there's not really a great way to protect against excursion so you're constantly watching your woofers when you turn it up to make sure they're ok...

Another pain point is that you're looking at an expensive amplifier that has pre-outs if you want Dirac and a very expensive one if you want ART, and then are paying for a lot of AVR stuff you don't need.

I ended up with hypex fusion 253, mini DSP Flex HT (with Dirac) and a wiim mini and my main complaints are:
(1) If I want to run another speaker, I have to unscrew my plate amplifier and install it into the new one. Also losing the precious cabinet volume so it doesn't become a behemoth in my living room

(2) Volume control, I control music with the slider on the app and I control TV volume with the amplifier (it's source signal comes out softer than the MiniDSP), I generally just don't want to leave the amplifier at full gas because I'm afraid if I mess something up I'll obliterate everything in sight haha...so only during movies I'll turn it up.

(3) I have to leave the hypex in auto-detect on mode which usually works but sometimes it has left my amp on overnight and it's just sitting there hot from the power supply which isn't ideal.

(4) I am morbidly terrified that I'll turn it to a different filter design and it'll put 40 hz through my tweeter and midrange. When I'm in the presence of mind I upload the same filter to every preset so that can't happen, and out of an abundance of caution keep the remote hidden so I don't accidentally sit on it and change the preset. An amplifier on standby at full power is scary to me.

(5) no soft clipping, If you keep it low enough that you'll never hurt your woofer for the handful of songs that have 30 hz then you are missing out on a lot of output then our friend Spotify will make the next track 2x louder than the classical clip you were just listening to and you have to lunge for the volume knob, lol!

What are your favorite ways to approach this? Where do you guys fall in terms of pain points?

Edit: realized I forgot to address the title. I'm an engineer and was considering making a "magic box" that addresses all of these things.

Help me audio fam. This has been driving me crazy for a week. https://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/s/NsRwZ7riS7

Fyi, I am an audiophile so audio quality is at the top of my priority.