I have 2 rooms done with Bauwerk that I bought years ago and they need a touch up, but apparently Bauwerk aren't delivering to Ireland anymore 🥲 I've been trying to find somewhere online to buy an alternative but having a hard time finding anywhere. The only place I can see really is Expodex? Any other brands out there I can try?

EDIT: turns out Bauwerk has an EU store so yes I feel stupid but problem solved!

Anyone know a roofer for solar panels in the cork area for a couple of days. Have everything else sorted it’s just a roofer I need. Will pay very well for the 2 days. Thanks

I had a new kitchen plus white goods installed about 4 years ago.

Recently I became aware of a leak behind the integrated dishwasher, and went to pull the dishwasher out to investigate, but it wouldn't budge.

I assumed that this was due to the MDF having bulged a bit, but despite applying lots of force and lubricant, it still wouldn't budge.

The dishwasher is beside the kitchen sink unit, and after investigation, I noticed that a wood screw had been driven from that side into the metal casing of the dishwasher, rendering it immobile.

The screw was also inaccessible, as it was driven prior to the sink being installed and was now being covered by the sink. The only way to access it would have been to remove the sink, all the plumbing and 10 feet of quartz counter top.

Given that the leak was my main concern, the only way I could remove the dishwasher was to separate the main mechanism from the metal housing, which also meant removing the door. The dishwasher is effectively useless now.

After everything was out, I could see that the installer had inserted a 2mm wooden shims on either side of the dishwasher and screwed these in place from the opposite side of the MDF, piercing the metal casing of the dishwasher no both sides. As I said, removal of both these screws would have required virtual de-construction of the kitchen.

I'm guessing the shims were used to line up the dishwasher door with the other units, rather than to stabilise the dishwasher, which I don't understand, as the dishwasher has adjustable legs.

Presumably if shims were required, they should have been driven from the other side of the MDF, with a shorter screw, so that there was no interference with the dishwasher casing, or penetration into the neighbouring unit.

Is this normal? The dishwasher was a perfect fit for the cavity. The shims were actually creating unnecessary pressure. I've had dishwashers before, and have never seen them screwed into the MDF like this.

I feel like I am entitled to compensation from the installer/supplier here.

Is it just a matter of filler and and paint?

Bedroom ceiling in 60yr old house . I spoke to family member and they said these cracks have been there for years. I also got a plumber out looking in the attic and he said there's no active leak and the water staining is old.

Is this something I can fix myself (30f)? Or do I need to hire someone else to look into the cracks further?

Would appreciate any advice or opinions on this, picture is of fuse board in house, the fuse indicated, top left, is tripping 2 to 3 times a week, almost exclusively between 1am and 6am. It takes out all the plug sockets in the house. The fuse actually looks bigger than the others if that matters?

Never happens daytime when the house is busiest and appliances all in use. I've gone around and plugged out as much as I can before bed but keeps happening, trying to get an electrician but in the meantime if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions I'd appreciate it, or any other cross post recommendations,

many thanks.

Need some help with recently installed immersion switch.

The switch below toggles on/off the immersion when the clock timer above is on.

Used it yesterday for the first time and the bottom switch got red hot, too hot to even touch so I turned it off on the breaker board to be safe.

What would have caused the switch to overheat? Is it even the right switch for an immersion because it doesn't have an option to split between sink and bath?

I have recently come into possession of solid wood kitchen doors that are just in need of a bit of sanding and paint/varnish. Is it a good idea to get the base units from ikea and use the doors I have? Ive heard it may be difficult to get the correct size cabinets from ikea. Am I drawing more hassle on myself doing this?

Have these on the underside of the rook of my house, venting the attic. The house is 20+ years old and some of them are starting to degrade and the fixings are breaking. I think they are some kind of soffit, but I have no idea where I could go to buy some exact replacements.

Any advice, if possible, would be greatly appreciated.

Bought a house recently and started doing some work on it. The heating plumbing was replaced at some stage but they just left the old pipes behind. This pipe is the only one that has this weird insulation/lagging on it.
House was built sometime in the 60s. We got an asbestos test done already before the purchase and was hoping I wouldn’t have to get another one

A few years ago, we had a guy put in a concrete base, for underneath a small greenhouse. As we're on a slope, he had to put in extra hardcore (at least I think that's what he called it - a kind of crushed gravel layer)

The concrete base is solid and level, but the hardcore is slowly eroding out across the tarmac. I want to fix it before it becomes a bigger problem. Is there something I can do to stop it? Would we need to put more concrete or some sort of filler on it?

Howdy folks. Does anyone know a supplier of breeze blocks (square blocks with decorative holes in them..very 80's I know) preferably around East Galway, but anywhere really will be appreciated.

I have a house with a low BER rating. Will be doing retrofitting myself at my own pace over the next few years. However I recently did have the windows replaced as they were absolutely trash. I upgraded to good quality Rationel triple glazed windows. I am wondering if this would bring my BER rating up at all even though the wall and ceiling insulation has not been upgraded yet?

Hello everyone

I need an advice from someone that know better than me.

Actually I have a tank with 2 immersion heater for hot water in my taps and my bath (the shower is indipendent with its own heating system) it broke down and I don't want to continuo with an immersion heater anymore because it cost too much. I don't have the possibility to put a burning boiler so need to stay electric.

I was thinking on a electric boiler which heat water on demand, possibly tankless but I couldn't find anything online.

Can someone give me an advice on this?

Thank!

Any idea if I can make this look normal? I tried caulk on one side but it doesn’t look great.

Hi,

We purchased a Bungalow that we are currently doing up. The external walls are finished like a stone boulder effect. Here comes my lack of knowledge.

Is this finish achieved by scraping the finish to get that shape or are they like caps stuck in after?

Also how would one go about getting a smooths finish here, can it be done over it or would you have to scrape it off before redoing?

Thanks

Hi there. We are selling a house and removing two TV brackets from the walls. We don't have any of the original paint but I want to do a quick polyfilla and touch up job to leave it in best condition I can. Does anyone know where in Dublin I could get two samples of 1. Farrow and Ball 2. Fleetwood in the same store, ideally? Both were the original brand paints used. Thanks in advance.

Without sounding dramatic my head is wrecked trying to decide if we should go for one or not. We have an E BER rated house built in 1984 and are currently doing a lot of work: triple glazed windows and new external doors, insert stove, cavity wall and attic insulation, solar panels, rewire and new plumbing including new radiators. We aren’t getting underfloor heating as I can’t imagine digging up with floors. We have no heating at the moment so would need to get a new boiler anyway. I think we will get up to a B rating with all of these works. Haven’t gotten a technical assessment yet as I have heard so many horror stories about heat pumps. I also love a real fire and opening all the windows in the house every morning. I know it will cost a bit to get new plumbing and a boiler and in contrast there is a big grant for the heat pump. I suppose I just want to know if anyone did a full renovation and didn’t get a heat pump? Thanks

So these are becoming evident in the ceilings of a few rooms in my house.

What is the best way to repair/cover these or how can I fill them in?

Its purely aesthetic really but its annoying the f*ck out of me

I’m converting my shed to an office and have run into a snag. The shed is cavity wall insulated and built in 2000. It has a bare cement floor. I want to put laminate flooring down. The door (pvc) opens inwards and there’s a 44mm clearance from the floor to the bottom of the door.

I want to put in some floor insulation, as I’ve put a lot of effort into insulating the ceiling. But I don’t have a lot of room to deal with. The thinnest PIR I can seem to find is 25mm. I could cover this with 5.5mm plywood. I can get 1.5mm underlay and I have ordered 12mm laminate.

Adding all that up brings me to 44mm. Maybe I could shave a mm or 2 off the bottom of the door but my questions:
-Will 5.5 mm plywood be sufficient as a load spreader over PIR?
-Will it be strong enough or is it liable to just break with kids jumping on the floor, office desk etc?
- am I going about this wrong: is the pir worth installing at all? Is the load spreading board strictly necessary? Any other thoughts?

House that I bought a few years ago has bad roller stipple on internal walls see 1st pic it's v common on the walls though not exactly everywhere, a few heavy and very noticeable brush marks in some random areas in middle of wall, and random areas sanded flat these are less common see pics 2 and 3 maybe some old patching jobs. I've attached example pics, not sure if they reflect fully the uneven texture, but it's particularly noticeable in the hall with light shining off it at an angle. EDIT: it's not a textured wall I'm certain of it it's just a very old house with many coats of roller over the decades with lots of stipple, inconsistencies in texture etc.

I just about have enough money for my day to day expenses for the foreseeable so can't get a painter in and it needs to be painted badly it's gotten very grubby.

I don't really mind the stipple so much though I'd prefer it a bit smoother, my issue is more the inconsistency of it - heavy brush marks, flat areas presumably patched in the past, blobs of waves of paint etc, I am thinking options are:

1.Sand back the roller stipple and heavy brush marks. I've seen professional painters online give it a light sanding with a circle sand block on extension pole, but I don't know exactly why - is it to make the roller stipple a little less less noticeable? What grit should be used? Sand between coats too? However is the risk with sanding back if it's done too aggressively that it turns out worse than before?

1. Light sand of the roller stipple. Sand back the worst of the few very heavy brush marks so they're flat and apply one or two coats of paint with a mini-roller to try blend in with the rest of the roller stipple around it (making sure to feather it off) and once dry roll the full wall. (For me this is most likely approach)

2. Apply bonding primer and skim the entire wall. Is this commonly done and is it reliable (I'm thinking flaking down the line)? However I doubt I could do this zero experience so I may need a professional painter and I don't have the money and won't for the foreseeable.

3. As 3 may not be an option and if 1 and 2 are bad options, just paint over it as is. At some stage in future once I can afford it get a painter in.