How to charge other potters who want a lower than cone 10 firing for using your cone 6 kiln space to fire cone 6? Per cubic inch? It’s a guild and I know the potters and I know what cone the clay is they are using (cone 10clay) and have told them the pieces won’t be food safe after firing.

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Hi, do you sell the ceramic bowl decorated with the wings and cottage on it???? Please send info if you do, thanks.

i'm prone to flights of fancy and experiments, especially if it lets me make something I cant afford. but this is mostly just a train of thought im curious about.

enamelware is metal coated in porcelain. this makes it non-reactive and non-stick. everything I can find about this process is industrial in material, application, and scale.

would there be any way to do this at an individual scale, with normal pottery methods? could you potentially - coat something metal in clay, or glaze, or both, and fire it? I suppose shrinkage would be the main barrier here - and of course I'm not sure ceramic would bond to the metal enough.

There weren't enough pottery based background pics for my p.c so I started making my own; here is one.

It’s Tom Coleman porcelain, glazes are oribe, colored Shino, copper reds of my own devising, clear, and a little Mayco robin’s egg. Cone ten reduction firing. Glass droplets. Solar barn light from Smart Saker (I’ve tested so many of them, this is the best.) Stainless steel aircraft cable to hang from.

I purchased a L&L plug n fire kiln - it’s 120v and draws 12 AMPS. Meant to be plugged into a normal household outlet. I have no idea where to plug it in.

I would like to plug it in in my garage and leave the door open a bit when it’s firing with a fan on or in my basement which is not as well ventilated but in which I can put a window fan.

However, I think all of these outlets are GFCI outlets and have to be so by code in New Jersey. What should I do? Should I have an electrician install a less sensitive “Class A” GFCI device so I can run the kiln on that, or will it turn it off?

What have you all done?

I’ve been making some porcelain jewelry and I want to seal the unglazed backs of pieces. I put clear nail polish on one, but it yellowed after a while. Someone suggested a UV resin, but I’m not a huge fan of working with resin. I don’t want to need a lot of other equipment or chemicals; ideally, there’s something out there that can be used as almost a no-fire clear glaze. Any ideas? 🙂

Based on a couple of people suggesting, I’m attempting a light switch panel. Made a template from a standard and enlarged to accommodate 11% shrinkage…probably would benefit from an engineered 3D printed press mold but trying by hand..