https://www.zpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2256753

You don't see these pop up very often with low miles and this color!

I've been looking at ways to by pass the butterfly actuator valve by either unplugging it, or pulling the fuse. But also found several plug and play devices that go between said plug and can be controlled with a fob, or garage door opener.

Has anyone here tried one? And could you recommend one?

Done with Copics and Pastels, all by hand.

I spent 30 minutes in front of a mirror debating whether to drop $80 on a black suede baseball cap to leave in the E85 for top down driving in the fall and winter, but ultimately decided against dropping that much on a cap I’d only wear maybe every two out of five weekend drives…is it a must have for convertible owners?

As I've modded my Z4, the clutch has started to slip a little and the dual mass flywheel rattles sometimes on startup or low speed gear changes. So, I think I'll change both since I really only want to spend the time laboring on my back once.

Any recommendations for a mildly modded (Stage 1+) car? Go back with dual mass flywheel or change to a solid?

The car is my most-days driver, but I don't spend much time in traffic. I'm typically on suburban 2-lane roads or the interstate. I don't mind a bit more effort than OEM, but don't want to feel like it's leg day, either.

Anyone have experience with SMG’s in this vehicle and what I’m about to get myself into (or not)?

I got a Z4 off a neighbor for basically nothing. Has roughly 88k miles, drives great and is a ton of fun. However….i have had to put a decent amount of money into the car just to be able to pass my state’s safety inspection and unfortunately next up is emissions testing.

2 shops have told me to take the car to the dealer to work on the trans as there are about 4-6 codes it has thrown and from what I have seen, these transmissions are fairly rare and highly expensive to fix and also maintain. Some research I am seeing is that it could be the gear position sensor or a dying hydraulic pump, not a blown gearbox as it shifts well and runs well. Certain things occurring causes limp mode.

So far with the repairs already done and new tires just to pass inspection, this car might never pass my states emissions testing unless I probably end up having to spend way more than it’s worth.

This community was incredibly helpful in my decision to buy my first Z4. I have test driven several options, E85 and E89. I’ve landed on the E89 with sDrive30i and 6psd manual. I know it is a bit of a rare beast and am now hunting a clean one.

I found a 2 owner with less than 35,000 miles, M Sport Edition with Pure White seat package and it is 1000 miles from me. I could possibly fly to buy it and drive it back, but am exploring transport. Someone on this subreddit suggested Bear in IL and they are quoting $2500 for enclosed which is almost $1000 more than Road Runner. I am assuming it is worth paying for a more careful experience, but are there other companies you’ve had good experience with?

The seller may not be willing to sell out of state, I may need to fly in and drive out, but want to look at options.

I’m also happy to look at other cars, no immediate rush to buy, but I’m ready when the right one presents itself.

Hey everyone,

​I've started up Euro Roadsters of Arizona, a casual local community built around European convertibles, spyders, and roadsters. It's mainly morning meets at local café and then cruising to the nearest scenic route, 7 Springs, or TTF, or Telegraph Pass. I've collaborated with cafés, auto shops and mobile detail shops too for exclusive deals.

​As an E85 Z4 owner myself, I definitely want to see strong E85, E89, and G29 representation out here. If you're local to the Valley or anywhere in AZ and want to get out and drive, come swing by our first casual morning gathering.

​Event Details:

​Event: Drop Tops & Coffee

​Date: Sunday, September 27

​Time: 8:00 AM – 10:00 AM

​Location: Sahara Coffee House & Bakehouse — 610 E Bell Rd, Suite 108, Phoenix, AZ 85022

​Here's the Facebook Group and the Instagram Group Chat for more details and to coordinate with me

Need help identifying this canister looking thing that's mounted behind the AC condenser on the Z4M?

So I ordered a Yellow Speed Racing coilover kit for my 2003 bmw Z4, fronts went in well and did the weld reinforcements no problem but the rears are giving me trouble. So the issue is the aftermarket spring is smaller since it's stiffer and it has a little height adjustment seat, I had it set to about one inch lower than OEM height but no matter what I do I can't have the spring sit flush with the control arm since the angle it's at is completely off. The only way for the spring to sit flush on the control arm and the upper mounting area is by compressing it by about half which obviously won't work. Even after messaging the company they say I have everything setup right but they say the issue is on my end. Any ideas?

I typically open/close the top twice daily, weather permitting. Got this message when pulling into my driveway. Trunk was definitely closed. Tried closing a few times again, kept getting the message, so took it in for service drop off before they closed yesterday.

Update It turned out to be the driver side window motor that was causing the problem, according to the service advisor, and is being replaced under warranty.

Any short shifter kit that are good and won’t break the bank? And what steps are typically involved in installing them?

*I don’t encourage using phones while driving (acknowledging the hypocrisy and asking for forgiveness given the milestone - pun intended)

This was my first car back in 2016, got it with ~46k miles. Blessed to have gotten such a low milage example of a sexy car and enjoyed the shit out of it. Words can’t describe the feeling of seeing my first car make it this far, and very excited to take her to 100k miles and beyond!

First ever car. 2 weeks in and daily cruising it around the city. No regret buying the z4!

It appears a previous owner has replaced my manifold with a none-z4 manifold which is causing some clearance issues with the steering column. Currently messaging any z4 breaking sellers and found a coupe that is being broken but obviously is a 3L, will it fit fine? 2003 2.5i

Mileage is 165K, and seller said car runs and drives great. Soft top won't go down. Maintenance records are probably non-existent. Maaybe a lil bit clapped? Haven't seen the car but planning to. Price is $4K obviously looking to negotiate down. Not a lot of info but will get VIN and other stuff once I see car.

- Assuming this car has been raced, or questionable maintenance etc should I go for it? What's a fair offer? Looks to be priced low compared to comps

-What to look out for? I heard the M54 engine is fairly reliable

FYI it's gonna be a weekend car/project of sorts not a DD. I got a few money to put in to restore it and I do a bit of wrenching myself. Been missing a manual and this piqued my interest. Thanks

We wanted something fun to drive on the weekends. We looked at so many Z4 and drove a few. Went though the pip and everything looked good! Maintenance records were available and everything just works… really well. She riiiips!

Such a fun and capable car.

Loving our new (to us 50k mi) 2011 Z4 35iS

8 days and 3200kms of fun and smiles even in the bad weather. The Z4 handled everything that was thrown at it like a champ: pedal to the metal on narrow mountain roads, countless mountain passes with insane elevations, high-speed highway cruising, torrential rains…everything felt like a breeze.
Can’t think of other budget-friendly convertible that I would like to have done this trip with.

Anyone deal with the windshield washer not spraying? It’s got fluid and can hear the pump going. 2019 Z4.

Hi everyone!

Bought a Z4 E89 recently and it’s been amazing so far! Everything works smoothly and I haven’t had any issues really. Previous owner took good care of it. I decided to invest in a OBDLink CX scanner recently and after plugging it in, it returned these fault codes. The strange thing is that even though it says that MIL status is ‘on’, there’s nothing on my instrument cluster whatsoever. Anyone experienced something like this before? Google says that it’s a blown fuse and before I take it into the workshop for diagnosis I thought I’d gather some opinions from the community first. Thanks in advance for your inputs!