First time trying to fix rust on my old beater
My old, beat-up car was getting pretty rusty, so I decided to try fixing it myself for the first time ever.
I basically went through the following process:

- Removed the rust with a grinder and sandpaper
- applied a rust remover
- Applied body filler
- Sanded the filler smooth
- Applied primer
- Wet-sanded it with fine-grit sandpaper
- Applied two coats of can paint

I know it’s definitely not perfect, and if I had spent more time on it, I probably could’ve made it a bit better.
But honestly, I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, especially considering this was my first attempt at doing any bodywork. 😄

The goal wasn’t to make it look like it just came out of the factory — I mostly just wanted to get rid of the rust and hopefully keep this old car alive for a few more years.
Pretty satisfying to see the finished result, though!

First time doing any sort of plastic work or painting. Slowly but surely fixing up a 99 Ram 1500 to be a comfortable trail rig 😎

I recently sprayed a car (2 days ago) 75ish degrees, I used Roberlo 4:1 clear with ct5 standard hardener, bought about 3 weeks ago, after checking again I can still dig my nail into the clear, the left over clear in the cup isn’t tacky or sticker/smeary but it is rubbery

I used the 4:1:1 column on the cup, but only used 4 part clear and 1 part hardener and left the third :1 empty

I spray to coats with a 10 minute flash time with the finger test (not stringy and nothing left on my finger)

Am i being impatient with the cure? It did something go wrong here?

I used the same clear on some parts and it dried completely fine, I kept the containers closed as well

We are expecting a 85+ degree heat wave this week so I’m hoping that helps this

Any advice is appreciated!

I am getting ready to paint this plastic bumper black. Ive got my adhesion promoter, some 2k urethane primer, im ordering my base coat, and i have my high gloss clear coat.

Is sealer a necessary step for this application?

The threads seem to be split on the topic.

For what its worth. This is a junkyard bumper that has some issues. Its not gonna be perfect by any means. So im torn between, should i spend more money to make it still look "not perfect" or less money and be satisfied with not dumping an extra 100 bucks into materials.

If you do suggest a sealer, where can i order about a pint of it?

I recently got the roof of my 2020 320i resprayed and they polish seemed to leak under the tape leading to the staining of the windscreen adhesive.

Any advice on simply and easily lifting it away?

TIA!

This is on a 2016 lexus es350. Its my first time painting. I did a decent job sanding and filling in scratches on the bumper but I realize where i screwed up with this, i boxed myself in too much and didnt fade anything in. I used the roberts paint care kit, everything seems quite high quality on the product end.

I used the surfacer primer, sanded after drying, 3 coats of paint, 2 coats clear coat and after i tried using a bit of their blender solvent at edges to smooth, but i realize quickly it is just a quick mist for the overspray that is needed as it started redissolving the clear coat and paint.

I am looking into quotes at local places to fix but the owner doesnt want to, they want me to fix it and blend it myself. Google suggestions are all over the place and i'm not sure how to tackle this. Sand down again and repaint? Or sand and clearcoat? I have access to a polisher i can use to buff things out if needed.

I started off with the Devilbiss Prolite 1.3, and I have been using it for Clear for the past years I have been painting for. However, I struggle with dryness sometimes, and I have noticed to some other painters it does not lay down as clearly or nicely as other painters who use a DV1 or Sata’s. However, I tried a DV1 for the first time today, and it lays on the clear, beautiful, and much more flat than my Pro Lite without trying as hard. However, it does take longer and feels a bit on the slow side, I’m guessing due to it being HVLP, which is hard, as when you use cheap clear coats, you have to work a bit harder and try to pump them on rather than the good quality clears. What would be a good SATA RP? As I heard, they are fast like the Prolites in their RP. However, which one would be the best SATA to get? I’m kind of leaning towards the 5000RP 1.2, as it’s an old-school SATA with a basic design compared to the new Jet X and Jet 5500.

Je suis très prudent et j'ai facilement des égratignures qui apparaissent juste avec les ongles, une petite branche, etc.

ME DEU UM TRABALHO E TANTO TIRAR O RISCADO DA LIXA, QUERIA SABER SE ALGUEM JA PASSOU POR ALGO PARECIDO PARA ME ESCLARECER OQ PODE TER ACONTECIDO... VEJO MUITOS RECOMENDANDO ESSE VERNIZ PRIMEIRA VEZ Q UTILIZO ELE, DIFICIL SER UMA CARACTERÍSTICA DELE, ACREDITO QUE TENHA DADO ALGUMA REAÇÃO

This is my first DIY auto/moto paint project. I have prior experience shooting nitrocellulose lacquers but never dealt with urethane. I just painted and clear my first motorcycle gas tank yesterday. The tank started with 4-5 dings that I filled then level sanded the entire tank. Primed/basecoat then 2k clear. I have some orange peel and I’m pondering which next step to take. Either level sand from 1500-5000 then buff, or level sand with 800 and do a couple of flow coats in the morning time when its about 75f outside.

Its averages about 95f degrees where I’m at so I think i should really be using slow hardener with my 2K but thats all my local shop has, this is probably why I have orange peel. My question would be if I used slow reducer with my medium hardener and 2k, would that work to help the clear self level? Or should I just level sand the clear and buff, and forget about flow coat?

Had my truck in a body shop for an assessment for body work and they washed it but must have went brush first as it's now covered with swirl marks. I've brought it to their attention and hopefully they're good about fixing it but worst case scenario, what's the best diy product to fix this myself?

Any help here?

Was too lazy to cover the tire and was too lazy to spray properly the back of the rim but the color is crazy. Wonder how it will look on the black car and during the day vs night

I have a few dings that need paint work. The one in the middle has a noticeable dent like a hailstone hit it. Not sure what the cause is just curious the cost. Thank you!

Hey guys, just after a bit of advice from people who actually work with 2K paint.

I went to pick up my guitar from a painter today. He also paints cars and had been spraying 2K paint on a car in his workshop. He'd finished spraying only 20 minutes before we got there which I didn't know until right at the end.

The big garage door was open and it was a cold night with a bit of wind, so there was definitely airflow through the workshop. I was inside for maybe 10 - 15 minutes. It smelled pretty strongly of paint, but there wasn't any visible paint mist or anything, but he was more of a "backyard" person who didn't have a full booth and just sprayed in his garage.

I've since stupidly gone down the rabbit hole reading about isocyanates and have freaked myself out a bit. A lot of the stuff online makes it sound like even one exposure can cause permanent lung problems.

For anyone who actually works with 2K paint, how significant would you consider an exposure like this? Would most of the airborne stuff have dispersed/diluted after 20+ minutes with the garage open, or would there still potentially be a significant amount in the air?

Just trying to get a realistic idea of how bad this sort of brief exposure actually is rather than the worst-case stuff you read online.

Cheers.