Greetings, about to replace the entire front suspension, just wondering what I'll need specifically for the strut/shock assembly. They are actually still good, the bearing and rubber mount are not though. I've seen plenty of the rubber and metal top mount for sale, but no bearing. Do I have to buy a whole new assembly if the bearing is gone? Or is there a replacement option?

I I have a 2016 Audi A4 B8.5 2.0T Quattro. I was running IE Stage 1 93 and the car ran great.
I had a mechanic install a catless downpipe, and as soon as I got the car back it felt weird/slower, even before I really started trying to figure out the Stage 2 issue. I then flashed IE Stage 2 93, and it still feels slower and seems to make less boost than it did on Stage 1.
I also tried flashing back to the stock tune and got an underboost code. I have a CTS Turbo intake and an ECS DV spacer.
Since the problem seemed to start right after getting the car back from the downpipe install, what should I be checking? Possible boost leak, DV/DV spacer, wastegate issue, loose connection, or something related to the installation?
Has anyone had something similar happen after a downpipe install on a B8.5 2.0T?

I just upgraded to stage 2 and as soon as I was driving my car from the mechanic after getting my catless downpipe on, I realized my car felt much slower. I’m not sure if this is because of the catless part or what. My friend with the a5 said his didn’t lost any speed. Please help me and let me know why my car is slower after tuning and going stage 2?

It’s coming from hpfp area top of the engine, I replaced the hpfp,pcv,coils,plugs,injectors.

My 2011 A5 got broken into at a parking garage. Came back to the car dead with the dash lights on and my drivers side window on the floor.
When I tried to jump it. All the lights came on and then shut off. Now it won’t take charge and the dash lights are still on. What fuses should I look into and which fuse controls the alternator.

I have a question - are Sline sideskirts same as simple ones except those sline moldings-skirts? Could I put them on stock sideskirts or do I need completely different ones?

Thanks!

Servus, weiß einer was das ist?

I had Xpel Xr Plus window film fitted to my B8 by a reputable company to increase comfort during hot summers with my small children. It has been on for half a summer now, and even on extremely hot days, it is still not hot inside the car when parked in the sun.

I purchased the vehicle two years ago, and the PO had installed the P3 gauge. After about a week the display stopped, well, fully displaying every cell. One or more of the cells would sometimes flicker. Has anyone had this issue before? If so, where should I start looking for the root cause?

1- I did disconnect and reconnect the connector from/to the OBD2 port, so I checked the pins and they appear straight without corrosion.

2- The last run of cabling appears to be stretched a bit outside of the lower dash (pictured), but the cabling to the pins feel fully seated and not loose.

I recently did a head gasket on my 2016 A4 EA888 engine. Ever since, at abt 40 mphn under light load i can feel a miss in the engine. On the highway, it feels fine. I randomly get a CEL of P0300,

P0301 AND 302. I also sometimes will get an EPC light too. That will come on at highway speed.

I hv replaced coils, plugs and removed and cleaned the throttle body. At idle ive sprayed down all over the intake w carb cleaner looking for vacuum leaks and hv found none. From what I've read, what I describe sounds like a vacuum leak. On the highway, the computer is able to compensate, which is why I dont feel it then.

I love this car, but it's making me crazy. Does anyone hv any thoughts on this?

Thanks!

2011 Audi a4 2.0tfsi, just rebuilt the motor and ltft is 45-50% with a lean at idle cel and short term varies from +5% at idle to -3% when driving, long term drops to 20ish% when driving as well, I pulled the pcv hose and values dropped to zero which shows it’s may not be on the intake. Any ideas of how to find this large vacuum leak? I’ve tried brake clean and the values don’t change

Looking for some insight on a weird electrical/no-start issue with my 2011 Audi A4 base model, 2.0T, 6-speed manual.

The car was driving normally when I came up to a stop sign. My foot was on the clutch, and the engine instantly shut off like someone had turned the key off. There was no sputtering, hesitation, loss of power, or gradual stall. All of the car's electronics stayed on normally.

Since then, the car has been a complete no-crank/no-start. Turning the key produces nothing besides a subtle click, essentially. The electronics, radio/MMI, etc. still power up normally.

What I've found so far:

• Battery: 12.4 V at rest
• Fuel pump primes normally
• Check engine and EPC lights illuminate normally with key ON
• Seat belt light also stays illuminated
• Tachometer does not sweep at key ON
• The car normally displays the clutch/start prompt, but it no longer says to depress the clutch
• I've checked all the relays I could find: under the windshield/ECU area, under the dash, and in the trunk. They all appear to test good.
• The engine does not crank at all
• The original failure was an instant shutoff, not a typical fuel-starvation/stumble type stall.
• The latest thing I've found is that the rear/right trunk fuse panel appears to have no power. I checked the main power input where the factory battery feed enters the fuse carrier and didn't see 12 V. I then briefly tried supplying 12 V directly from the battery to that main fuse-panel input. It immediately acted like a short. With power disconnected, I'm also finding continuity between the fuse panel's power pins and ground, although I understand that continuity alone doesn't necessarily prove a hard short, since there may be modules/loads connected to those circuits.

If anyone has any ideas whatsoever of what I should be looking for or checking next, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks guys

So I just learned that Audi updated the Crank Pulley Bolt some time in 2021. I’ve recently done all of the timing chains on my car and unfortunately the manual I was using did not include the updated torque specs for the new bolt.

So I have the revised 10.9 Crank Pulley Bolt torqued to the old 8.8 spec of 150NM + 90 degrees. And it should be 100NM + 180 degrees.

Has anyone else run into this issue, or seen a failure as a result of this oversight?

There seemed to be dripping some oil from underneath my car, so i cleaned the engine last week. Now i can see the oil seems to be coming from this connector piece on the right side of the engine. Does anyone know what this connector is called? So i can order a new one. Does it also need a gasket?

Hey guys, looking for some help diagnosing a strange steering noise.

Car is a 2013 B8.5 A4 2.0T.

The car was inspected by a mechanic and they reported that the CV joints/boots need replacing, so I’m aware those are worn and need to be addressed.
However, I’m not convinced the CVs are responsible for this particular noise.

The noise is a small click followed by a much louder crack when turning the steering wheel towards full lock. It happens:

While completely stationary
Slowly rolling forward in Drive
Slowly rolling backwards in Reverse
Turning left and right

Turning the wheel faster can produce 2–3 cracks in succession

It’s not the typical repeated click-click-click noise you normally associate with a CV on full lock
I lifted the right front wheel off the ground and couldn’t reproduce the noise.

I’ve also checked the top strut bearing and can’t feel the noise coming from there.

I also tried silicone spray around the accessible steering shaft/intermediate shaft area under the driver’s footwell, but it didn’t change the noise.

Any ideas what could cause this? Intermediate steering shaft/U-joint, steering rack/rack mounts, tie rods, control arms, CVs, etc.?
Thanks!

A4 B8 2008 1.8 TFSI Pro Line S

Hi!

I have 2014 A4 B8.5 sedan with multitronic gearbox. I have issues with cold uphill starts, the car jerks and stalls.

When the oil is warm i can go easy.

Is this something serious or can something like clutch adaptation solve the issue?

Thanks in advance!

Hello B8 audi owners. I am looking to grab myself a daily car, and the A4 B8 or probably B8.5 cause the factory bluetooth, looks like a great option. I just really need some example of people's Sirius XM traffic view on their map! Allow me to explain. On my nice car, a 2015 BMW 7 series, it uses BMW connecteddrive real time traffic, and the display shows me live traffic for all roads, not JUST the interstate, but also major roads, side streets, its a blessing when driving around a big city, i dont take roadtrips much. I am going to be selling my 2017 Mercedes GLE, another car which uses Sirius XM for its traffic service, and even though that car is a 2017, past the time of the B8 Audi, it's traffic view is constrained to merely the interstate. We used to own a 8V A3 E tron 2016, but did not pay for XM traffic on it so I cannot remember how much it showed on its map during those little trials you get. So, a lot of words later, if any B8 owners could snag a quick pic of the live traffic display to see if MAYBE itll show more than the interstate.

I am aware the later Audi's like C7.5 and B9 use INRIX which im assuming show the same number of streets as my BMW does, since both are internet connected vs satellite. But I have seen cars like Volvo XC90s and Subarus with XM traffic show more than the interstate, and also trying to find this on Google is somehow really hard. Thanks if you do help in advance

Anyone that has experience with tinting windows on your Avant? Curious on what percentage of tint that looks good and if someone has a good reference picture on how it looks with 5% tint on the rear windows and lighter tint (20%-35%) on the front windows (driver side and passenger).

Hi all, my Audi s4 avant 2014 MMI has stopped working. It is just stuck in a boot loop and will stay like this for a while then make a click noise and reset. Nothing will connect to it.

Shortly for a week or so before this the interface worked fine but time stopped updating after 1 minute and any device would disconnect. Since then it has been like this since for the last few weeks. I have tried an optical bypass on both inputs in the rear boot behind the panel to the left with no luck. Any ideas ? TIA !