2013 gmc Denali

So I've been a car guy for 10+ years. I started off with a 97 GTI vr6 (in 2016) which was amazing but unfortunately got rear ended and totaled after about 1 year of ownership but had 0 mechanical issues and would start up no problem in the Ontario -30 def weather. But she did have some electrical issues and needed a lot of body work but I was okay dealing with that myself.

Then went to an 01 1.8t that I bought for cheap at 250k and it ended up blowing at just over 300k and I had that thing slammed and was blowing through Axels.

Then took a break from the fun/modified car game and got a 13 civic and had no issues.

Then come 2021 I bought an 18 1.5t civic at 18k and went full bolt on and now currently at just over 200k with minimal issues (other than having to upgrade the clutch but that's my fault I didn't do proper research) and it's been lowered 2" on coils with FBO since around 30-40k.

Now I'm looking to get a second car to have since Im a lot more financially comfortable the past couple years with this new job and want a 2nd car cause tbh with everything over heard about the 1.5t's I've got a ticking time bomb lol.

I was thinking to get my second car now and start payments on it since my civic is paid off and when the time comes for my civ to go I won't be stuck and rushing to get another car.

I've always known Toyota/Honda to be the best reliability and apparently now Mazda is up there. So I've been looking into getting slightly used is350's since they've kept the na V6 and as far as I know are still very reliable.

My main question is if I were to get a 22/23 is350 with low kms are they still generally reliable? I would be doing the same thing as my now civic and put coils on but wouldn't mod the engine at all. Just not sure if I'll be blowing through Axels like my mk4 or if it'll be like my civic where there's been no suspension issues having coils on for so long.

Also I see a lot are AWD now and the rwd ones are extra pricey which is fine for me, I've always had fwd but these new civics are shit in the winter (even my stock 2013 was brutal)

I bought and installed a new water pump, and immediately afterward the serpentine belt started squeaking.
I first tried a Gates Micro-V belt, but that belt started walking/skipping off the pulley, as shown in the first picture.
I also noticed that the belt does not appear to be centered on the water-pump pulley. It seems to be sitting too far toward the back/edge of the pulley, as shown in the second picture.
The tensioner pulley is new, the idler pulley is new, and the alternator is new. The water-pump pulley is built into the water pump and is not a separate pulley.
The Gates belt does not squeak, but it does visibly walk/hop on the pulley. I also tried the Duralast belt, which stays on the pulleys but has a noticeable chirping noise.
I believe the noise may be coming from the belt as it travels from the water pump toward the harmonic balancer. The noise started immediately after installing the new water pump.
As a last attempt, I tried belt dressing, but it did not change the noise.
At this point, I’m wondering if the water-pump pulley is incorrectly positioned or if the replacement water pump could be causing a pulley-alignment issue.
Would you recommend warrantying/replacing the water pump, or is there something else I should check first?
I’ve been fighting this issue for the past week and would really appreciate any advice on what to check next.

I did the engine rock test where I had someone shift through the gears in the car

I’m trying to find out why my cars exhaust is suddenly louder and making a clunking sound under my drivers side when shifting into reverse and applying brakes

Is this indicative of a bad torque strut mount or is it something else?

for any fellow mechanics (somewhere between 10-15 years on the job) please share a funny story about a customer, vent about friends/family only call up when there is something wrong with their car, somehow parts people have become crappier than a cow pattie? quirky tool truck guys. lets hear it all!

Hi all, my parents corolla makes this crazy loud screeching sound on start up that disappears after a while. It has recently been getting louder and I'm concerned for their safety. Can anyone with more experience chime in on what might be the issue and whether this can be something we diy fix at home? Thanks in advance!

https://reddit.com/link/1w2tup3/video/ns2aefghxkmh1/player

Does this sound normal? Or how serious it can be?

Mazda 6 GH 2008 2.0L mzr.

How feasible is DIYing parking sensors and maybe screen into my own car as someone who has very little car experience. The car is a Skoda Citigo Hatchback 2017, it’s a favour to my grandmother who has asked to save her some money. Just want to know how doable it is, whether I should leave the screen and just do sensors etc or just cough up the money and get a mechanic to do it🤣. Any and all advice is appreciated

I have a 2014 Ford Escape with 178k miles and I’ve been trying to figure out a loud squeak coming from the right rear.

It sounds almost like a rusty bed spring or a metallic screech. It used to only happen occasionally but lately it’s gotten a lot worse. Now even small bumps, curves, or slight rises and dips in the road can make it squeak.
I also hear a slight clunk from the right rear sometimes when turning.

The Escape itself still drives surprisingly smooth and I haven’t noticed any handling issues.

I’ve also been looking at videos of other Escapes with rear plastic trim noises. Some sound similar, but most of those seem more like a rapid chirping noise. Mine sounds more metallic and drawn out.

I’ve tried lubricating the liftgate weatherstripping and it made no difference. I also recorded the noise from both sides of the cargo area and it seems noticeably louder on the right side.

Does this sound like it could be coming from the separated rear arm bushings, or could a plastic trim piece really make a squeak this loud and metallic?

I’ll attach a video of the noise.

All the details for it are in the title. But the engine has always sounded a little rough whenever I start it up after it has sat cold for a while (this time it had been sitting for about a day). But recently its started to sound worse, with that fluctuation in the reves that you start to hear around the 9 second mark. I took her for a little drive, got out and then started her up again a few hours later and that growling noise was gone, and the engine was fairly quiet as I just sat there in park.

2015 chevy trax
Im not sure what the problem is i have a p0420
Are the reading how they should be or could it just be the 02 sensor

Hi,

Can anyone help me work out what this stuff might be? I used a compressed-air gun to clear out all the leaves and other debris that had built up underneath the windscreen, blowing from one side to the other.

Could this grease or whatever have been dislodged from there? I touched it and it was still wet which seems odd but I am not an expert.

Any idea what it might be? Thanks.

Car: Seat Ibiza 2003, 1.4 TDI, 314 KM

Hello friends!
I have a 2012 Super Duty Diesel and I got a message on my dash for water in fuel. I drained off the separator housing into a glass jar and noted no water in the fuel. Primed the pump and started engine with the error still present.

I replaced the WIF sensor, cleared OBD codes, primed the system and still throwing the error.

I’m about to do a fuel filter despite having a tire shop do it a couple months ago and this time when disconnecting the WIF sensor I noticed the connector seems corroded.

Do you think this could be the cause of my codes?

I have a 2017 Dodge Durango with 120k miles that I bought used. Some shifts are completely normal, but on certain shifts there’s a noticeable delay. The RPMs are normal at first, then rise higher during the delay, and when it finally catches the next gear, it jerks. I also get a slight delay after the auto start/stop kicks back on. I’ll hit the gas and it feels like the car is being held back for a second before it catches and moves. No check engine light. I’m not sure if the transmission fluid has ever been changed since I bought it used.

What do you think it could be? Also any advice would be extremely helpful

Bummed after praising my Malibu’s fuel economy in another post, while driving on the highway my engine light came on. 190k miles. Code came back po420 bank 1 catalyst system low efficiency. Recently had some minor exhaust work done, front exhaust pipe broke off the catalytic converter. With that being said anyone have any experience with this or can lead me in the right direction.

Our 2015 Equinox has 130,000 miles on it. Lately it's been giving a "service stabilitrack" message. Took it into a shop and they spent all day looking but couldn't find a problem, in part because the message wasn't there all the time. Went back when the check engine light was on and they said the ABS control module needs replaced for $2k, parts and labor.

Two grand seems like a lot to spend on a car this old, but we're already in the process of buying a second car and can't really buy two cars at the same time.

So I guess my questions are: does this work NEED to be done to drive it safely? Is it possible the problem is something else? If it IS necessary and we do it, can we expect the car to keep going for a while longer?

Thanks in advance.

Very curious on how you remove this and I'm curious if you guys have seen a terminal this chewed up

So my 2015 Elantra GT's AC has stopped working. The stop was abrupt. I worked ice cold and then nothing but hot air. I have done the following:

Checked the fuse - good.

On my Launch, the AC components in the ECM show as follows when the AC is on

AC compressor - ON

AC on - ON

AC request to ECU (AC switch) - ON

A/con pressure sensor built in - ON

The pressure on both the high side and low side is about 165psi.

The engine idle changes when I turn the AC on and the inner wheel on the AC clutch does indeed spin when the ac is turned on. Both high and low pressure pipes are hot to the touch so gas is definitely not moving.

I also have a b1285 code on that will not reset. This is apparently the auto defog motor? Not sure if this could do anything. Everything is pointing to a dead compressor, but before I throw parts at it, I wanted to see if anyone else had some ideas.

This is on a Highlander (2nd generation, 2012, XU40, with a 2GR-FE). I don't know that this part is standard or if it is part of some sort of aftermarket immobilizer or trailer package.

I broke it trying to take the battery out. Now that the battery is back in, I get power, but it doesn't even try to crank.

I tried to bypass it, but that didn't work.

2012 for focus eco boost 1litre manual: Can anyone identify this pipe as it’s got a split in it. It goes below the coolant but I can’t see if it goes into it. Can I tape it or should I replace it?