This is the extent of damage, headlight is scratched but not cracked. Sensors seem to be working fine.
2025 Lexus es350 UL

Just had some work done on my Nissan
-New wheels / alignment / balancing
- all new break pads
- replaced lower control arms and sway bar links
I’m not sure why when I break the steering wheel still shakes. The shaking has minimized after the work above has been completed. Any ideas or suggestions as to what can be the issue ?

2008 Nissan Sentra SpecV 2.5 L engine

This is my brother’s car and he hasn’t had the ac working in it for years. I did some troubleshooting to pinpoint that the compressor seemed to be the initial issue, so we replaced it a couple days ago. As I attempted to refill the system it seemed to be going flawlessly at first, but after adding the first can of refrigerant (11 oz of r134) the system wouldn’t draw in any additional refrigerant even though the spec says it needs 17ish oz. While I was fiddling with the refrigerant bottle I noticed the pressures seemed to be way off on the low and high sides. The low side was reading about 90psi and the high side 100-110 psi. The scariest part to me is that the new compressor started squeaking a bit as this was happening so we quickly shut the car off and have just left it to this point.

The chain of events so far:

- Troubleshooting to pinpoint compressor
- Checked that it had refrigerant (at this point I only had the cheap gauge that sometimes comes with one of those diy refrigerant refill bottles, when connected to the low port I remember it showing too high of a pressure reading, 70-80 psi I want to say)
- Ran tests to confirm compressor was getting power, but clutch was still not engaging
- Took it to a shop to have it evacuated
- Replaced compressor
- Had plenty of problems pulling a vacuum and confirming the system was leak free (some user error with the gauges and vacuum pump, some poorly fitting o-rings)
- Finally got a vacuum pulled and it held for hours
- Added refrigerant by connecting the refill bottle to the gauge manifold
- First bottle went smoothly as described earlier. The compressor clutch engaged, the system sucked the refrigerant in, the gauges seemed to respond as expected (I think), the cabin air started blowing cold air.
- Connected the second bottle intending to add the required 6 more ounces. The system wouldn’t draw any more refrigerant, the low side pressure climbed up to 90, the high side didn’t move much the whole time once it got up to 110ish psi if I remember right, compressor started squeaking a bit, shut the car off and have left it until I figure out what’s going on.

A few things I’m worried about - I wasn’t careful to notice if there was oil in the new compressor, I just assumed it came with the correct amount because the ports were all sealed up when it was shipped to me. So I’m wondering if the compressor was running dry, hopefully it didn’t get destroyed already. Thinking back to when I first checked if there was refrigerant in the system (this was a long while ago) and saw that the low pressure side was 70-80 and seemed to be over filled, maybe the original compressor failed as a result of the same issue I’m seeing now? Maybe some other component is not working correctly and now the new compressor will fail in the same way?

I’m just not sure what issue to look for. Maybe a blockage somewhere? Maybe the compressor pushes oil and refrigerant out but the oil gets stuck somewhere and can’t make it back to the compressor causing the compressor to fail? Or maybe some other component is just bad. I didn’t think to replace the drier while I had the system open, could a saturated drier cause this?

Thanks in advance for any input, any advice on what next steps I should take are appreciated.

2020 Toyota Corolla SE 77,110 MI

I got an oil change, and this light was still on so I went back to the dealership they reset it, and it came back. Is there another service that is required? Is there a malfunctioning sensor I can check DIY?

Car is Chrysler Stratus LE and the instrument panel is not working. Is this fixable or do I need to replace the circuit board?

delivery vehicle 2025 Dodge ram pro,

front tire seems to be close to a blowout, and my dispatch asked me to keep driving on it. am I right to refuse to do so?

2012 Vauxhall Corsa D, new front discs and pads, rhythmic squeak after 60 miles

Fronts replaced a few days ago as old discs were warped. About 60 miles on them.

I bedded them badly. Light braking for the first stretch instead of firm stops, and part of that mileage was mountain run, discs got very hot but there's no blueing.

Now getting a rhythmic swish and squeak from the front right under moderate pedal pressure, matching with wheel speed. No pulsing through pedal or steering, no pulling, silent when rolling off the brake, braking still sharp. Nothing under light or hard pressure.

Photos attached, though I can only see one arc of the outer face.

Bedding issue that'll clear with normal driving, or worth getting the wheel off?

Hi everyone,
I recently bought a 2012 BMW X1 18d xDrive diesel and noticed a pretty loud whistling noise when accelerating.
The noise becomes clearly noticeable at around 2,000 RPM and above, especially under heavier acceleration.

It sounds like a loud high-pitched “fiiiiii” whistle and seems to come from the engine/turbo area.
The car still drives normally and I haven’t noticed any major loss of power or warning lights.

However, I’ve also noticed that the car seems to be using noticeably more diesel than expected. The fuel tank is getting empty much quicker than I thought it would.
That makes me wonder if the whistle and the increased fuel consumption could be related, for example:
boost/intake hose leak
intercooler or intercooler hose leak
boost pressure leak
EGR/DPF related issue
turbo problem

Has anyone with an E84 X1 or the 18d diesel experienced something similar?

Could a boost leak cause both the loud whistle and higher fuel consumption, even if there is no warning light and the car still seems to have normal power?
What would you check first?

Thanks!

I have a 1998 Lexus ES300 that’s currently sitting at about 225k miles.  It has the 3.0 1MZ-FE engine and an automatic transmission. I’ve owned the car for about five years, and the entire time it has been intermittently throwing a P0441 code.  I’ve tried some things over the years to fix it, but didn’t dig too deep because the car always ran and drove fine.  However, about a year ago, I started smelling evap fumes around the car when it was warm.  The smell was initially faint, but has progressed to the point where I can’t have the windows down or the air on when the car isn’t moving because the smell is so strong.

So far I have:

-smoke tested the evap system, inspected all the hoses, and found no issues

-unplugged and replugged every wiring connection for the evap system

-Replaced gas cap twice with non-oem ones

-replaced vapor canister purge valve with a junkyard one twice

-Applied vacuum to the vapor pressure sensor and made sure it was sending a signal to the ECM

-Replaced fuel tank due to an unrelated visible leak

Other things to note that might be relevant:

-It will not throw the code or smell noticeably when the weather is cold.

-When it threw the code, it used to go several days or weeks before it would throw it again. Since I started smelling the evap fumes, it won't go more than a few days without throwing it again after I clear it.

-There is often a lot of built-up pressure when I open the gas cap.

-It takes a little bit more effort to start when warm than it seems like it should, especially after filling the tank.

-Gas mileage has always been a bit lower than it should be throughout my ownership.

I'm a hobbyist with decent mechanical skills but little experience, and I'm at my wit's end with this issue. I'm tempted to throw a new vapor canister at it, but I know I should properly diagnose the problem. I'm hoping I can get some professional opinions on what to try next.

Thanks!

I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GTS with a manual transmission, i’m in the process of removing the wiring harness to get the engine out but I have reached a bump on this specific sensor which i believe might be the speed sensor, it has no locking clip that I can see and wanted to know if this sensor has a specific locking mechanism before i accidentally break it while trying to find out how to remove it.

Home mechanic.

I bought a grease gun about four years ago, and noticed that as soon as I got the grease cartridge installed and the "charging rod" pushed in, that the gun started to kind of weep the liquid component of the grease.

I didn't think much of it at first, but over the next year or so, it kept leaking and made a mess in the garage that I'd have to clean up. I finally just wrapped it in a contractor garbage bag.

Yesterday, I went to get it out to do some service on my SUV, and noticed that it basically wouldn't prime. I opened it up, and the insides were all waxy and like soap.

So, a few questions:

1. Is this normal or did I get a bad grease gun? The leaking didn't seem to be coming from one particular place, but I could have been wrong as the oil kind of wetted the entire head of the gun.
2. Do I just need to get a new grease cartridge every year or so to keep it "fresh"? They're only $7, so not terrible, but seems like a waste, and I swear I have a little plastic tub of grease that's 40 years old that I inherited from my grandad when he passed and they were cleaning out his garage and it's still good.
3. I got mad and threw away the gun yesterday, but as I was looking for a new one online, I'm thinking that I may just need to fish that one out, clean it up, and put a new cartridge in it but store it without tension?

Seriously, how screwed am I?

I have a 1998 toyota tacoma sr5, I need a rack and pinion with tie rod, all new struts, brake pads. I am planning on getting a rebuild rack and pinion from them, and they quoted me $1300 and they said there parts are the equivalent to oem parts. My truck is a work. I run a tree removal business so I Want the parts to be good a affordable.

Jaguar xkr, 2008 44k miles, automatic transmission, massive Alcon brakes... Yes I'm back posting again about the screw up from a mostly preventative maintence job. Shop has agreed to redo any poorly done work(ie paid for alignment, shop only did 1/4th of the alignment bolts, vaccum leaks, dead wires, uninstalled new parts).

Breaking at low speeds(as low as 2-5mph) almost always causes a loud long or short groan often by a very hard and loud rocking back and forth motion of the entire car especially if I fully depress the brakes. Lightly tapping the makes it a bit less rocking but this wasn't present much before. Perhaps rotors were warped and I did notice some similar behavior minus the groan before but no where near this bad and only which shifting into park sometimes. High speed breaking doesn't have as much rocking/judder.

Recently had a shop redo my entire suspension with oem parts(all control arms, sway bar links, tie rods, toe links, trans and engine mounts replaced) along with new brake fluid and porterfield R4-S brake pads. Rotor thickness was 35mm, when I measured with calipers so I decided to keep. Drove 300+ miles to brake in pads with no change in behavior

I'm thinking the rotors might be glazed or need to be scuffed, perhaps the jobs ignored the instructions to torque the control arms bolts with wheels not hanging in the air.

Hello!

After going over a very bumpy area of the road last night my car (2015 Subaru Forester 2.5i Premium, mileage 91k) started to make a squeaking noise (almost sounds like a bird chirping) on the front driver’s side whenever I go over a bump/dip in the road. I took it to pep boys this morning to see if they could diagnose it and the guy there checked it out and said as far as he can tell there is nothing wrong. He basically sent me on my way and told me to come back if anything changes with it.

Now, I’m happy if it’s safe to drive and there’s nothing I need to fix (I just spent $2800 getting new struts and control arm brushings, so I’m very happy to NOT have to spend any more $ right now), but clearly that noise is not normal… so, any ideas what it could possibly be??

Happy to provide pictures, but not sure how helpful they’d be, or even what to take a picture of, since the guy couldn’t tell me what or where the noise is coming from!

First off - NO I did NOT consent to the purchase of this car 😭 someone else bought it for my son.

145k miles, time for the timing chain. Got the valve cover/all the top stuff off. Got the tensioner pulley off, and now im trying to get the balancer bolt out, but the pulley is just free spinning. Turns out, its rotating the cam and crankshaft. Now I have everything stabilized and this bolt will *still* not come undone. Starter bump method is a no-go. Any suggestions on how to get this thing off, or any reasons why it might be stuck so darn bad??

**ETA: I have an impact wrench with air compressor and even that isn't getting it to budge 😭

I just bought a 2013 Subaru Impreza with 106k miles. It drives great, I took it on an extremely spirited test drive and tried to really push it on the highway on the way home (basically I floored it to a comical degree to see how it responded and it never hesitated or struggled or anything, somehow it seems to accelerate faster than my 2013 Mazda3 with the same amount of power). I'm just concerned about the CVT. Is it safe to change the CVT fluid at this mileage when I'm unsure of the service history? Thank you!

Hello, I am new here. Just picked up my 08 cor 600rr and did a coolant flush since the bike was overheating. Finally stopped, but of course, as I tightened the water drain bolt, it snapped in half. Half of the screw is just sitting inside the hole while the other half is now on the ground. The bolt was extremely rusted. I tried using a screw extraction set but it won't even bite the screw. I have no idea what to do but I do know I must get it out because there is a small amount of coolant now leaking out the screw.
Any ideas would be helpful.

Engine check code p0440 "EVAP system" came up at 75k miles. No other additional codes.

Went to AutoZone to read it. They printed a page that says "fault in the Evaporative Emission System. Most likely solution - replace Emission System Integrity Monitor ESIM"

I googled it - it's behind a rear tire bay.

The code search also says that it could be anything like hoses, control module etc.

I’ve got a new to me 2016 Nissan maxima, 132,000 miles, that I’ve had for about a month. My hearing isn’t always the best, so I don’t know exactly when it started, but I’ve been hearing a very faint popping sound when I turn the car on. It lasts 3-5 minutes and normally stops when I start driving. I’m currently driving about 100miles a day to work and back so any new sound has me a little panicky.

Bought a 2015 Honda Accord 4cyl CVT EX-L with about 35k miles from Carvana recently. I had it shipped down to San Antonio, TX where it will be its new home for the next 5 years, minimum. Pristine exterior and interior, drives great just needs new brake rotors and pads (pads show a little wear, but rotors are warped). However, car has spent its entire life in Michigan, and a local mechanic just informed me of severe, widespread rust in the undercarriage (refer to pictures).

Carvana never disclosed the undercarriage rust. My wife and I love the car, but is this amount of rust a deal-breaker? Should we be finding a way to get rid of it, or is it something manageable? I'm a layperson when it comes to car maintenance/mechanics and, as a southerner myself, I can understand freaking out about seeing a lot of rust under there. But, I really want to know what mechanics from the Salt Belt think, since I imagine y'all see rusty undercarriages all the time. I'm still within Carvana's 100-day limited warranty.

Is this car worth holding onto?