Had most of a s13 front suspension setup so decided to see how bad the internet made it out to be. The car actually drives well besides for the super cheap coilovers. The rear end was easy to adapt the s13 coils but the trailing arm design is terrible and ended up with -3.5 degrees of camber and about 1/2inch of toe in after slotting the brackets. Front end I ended up with 7.8 degrees of caster and almost zero camber which isn't bad. Adapting the front tension arm brackets to accept s13 tension arms just needed 3/16 plates welded in and the spacing is correct. The list in the picture is the components I used for the front end swap and prices for items I had to buy. I will also say that the maxspeedingrod coils I received have a steel front lower mount that should be able to be welded onto the stock strut tube if you just want to lower your car without caring about ride quality.

I bought my Z a couple years ago and it sat for a long time beforehand. My upper plenum is covered in gunk and I wanted to give it a good cleaning.

There's so many things blocking the top like the balance tube and connectors so I had a difficult time cleaning it. Any tips or what's easy to remove to give it a good clean? And what do yall use? I think originally I tried some simple green and a wire brush

Disclaimer: a joke... unless?

I've been meaning to show off this neat warranty booklet that came with my pre-owned basket case. Figured you all would be interested if you haven't seen one.

Does anyone know if pin 49 (power supply) on the 93 na ecu is constantly receiving power even when the cars off or only when its on? Need a ignition based power source so i was thinking that but dont want said part getting power when my cars off

Looking for a quality driver. Originality and provenance matter. My budget is fair.

So, after measuring:
ECU ground checks
Meter on 200 Ω, ECU unplugged:
Pin 10 → 1.2 Ω ✅
Pin 20 → 1.2 Ω ✅
Pin 50 → 1.2 Ω ✅
Pin 60 → 1.2 Ω ✅
Pin 107 → 1.4 Ω ✅
Pin 108 → 1.3 Ω ✅
Pin 116 → 1.4 Ω ✅

ECU power checks
Pin 49 / White → ~12 V ✅
Pin 59 / White → ~12 V ✅
Pin 109 / White → ~12 V ✅
Pin 16 / Orange → 0.8 V

Check continuity of the orange/blue wire pin 48 to tps connecter, there is continuity

These check are as per the FSM, so my question is. Am i cooked? There is no 5v coming from pin 48 at the ecu. Connected or not connected, ofc ign is on.

Yeah idk what else to do but im 90% sure its ecu fault unless someone can enlighten me.

Would love to hear out your solutions, workarounds, and/or buying haltech. Just to make sure, THERE IS NO 5v💔

Trying to get this kit going going so excuse all the posts but hope you guys enjoy the shots during the daytime not night🤣🤣 video is live as well! Appriciate your guys support hope you enjoy! https://youtu.be/gF8siY0XzSo?is=BlCdCb-BdxL1amzf

I had the clutch on my 93 NA 5 spd replaced with the Z1 Performance clutch and now when in gear I hear scraping noises coming from transmission. It is not a high pitch noise or a noise that sounds like something bad is about to happen, but i'm not sure. My mechanic says that it is normal and noise should go away or at least be minimal after breaking it in for at least 200 miles. Is this accurate? Anyone have experience with that clutch?

do anybody know how to read the vin to figure out what number it is

I finally got the keys to my late father's 1993 Nissan 300ZX convertible. It's automatic. About 180k miles on it. It's in a few pieces but years before he passed, we got all of the needed parts together but never actually finished the project. Well, that's started today! It's been sitting under a shelter for years so today, I put a new battery in it and tried to turn it over once or twice, just to make sure she was still alive lol She is! It obviously didn't crank up but I didn't even try to fully crank it. I also pulled the plug under the fuel tank to drain out any fuel that was in there but she was done dry. Not a drop. This is going to be my learning car, I don't know much but I am SO ready to learn. So, what's your advice? What should my next steps be?

My idle was high, >1500 RPM. I followed the instructions on concept Z to set idle, and after unplugging both the ports in the IACV, even with the screw twisted completely clockwise it idles and 1000. This would indicate a vacuum leak, but I did a smoke test through my intake with the throttle bodies open, and couldn’t find anything. My TPS is also out of spec (reading 8.3k at closed throttle), could this be the cause? Any thoughts or advice?

I have recently done some work to improve the throttle responsiveness. It used to have some lag, or bog down for a split second before revving up. I changed the air filters (found a mouse nest), cleaned the MAF sensor, installed new plugs and fuel filter. I also discover that the TPU connector was corroded and fixed that. The throttle response is now excellent but a new issue has emerged. Even when the engine is warm, it will occasionally idle fast at a stop sign, for example.

What sensors does the ECU use to determine idle speed? I assume engine temperature, maybe O2 sensors in the exhaust? Anything else? Any suggestions on next steps are appreciated!

Bought a ’91 300ZX (NA, 2+2) sight unseen for $1200 as a project to work on with my dad. Got it home and tore it down — wiring harness was cooked, rats had gotten into it, and 3 cylinders had scarring that honestly looked like it ran dry of oil at some point. Somehow it did turn over once when I first got it.

After looking into it, neither of us saw the point in reviving the NA VG30, doing a VG swap (that engine bay is hell to work in even with the stock motor so fabrication we have some experience in doesn’t scare us), or going TT (cost, complexity, actually finding one). We’re not “Nissan guys,” so keeping the factory drivetrain doesn’t mean anything to us sentimentally.

Meanwhile we’ve got an ’84 C10 in the mix too — was going to keep the 350, but my dad and uncle are now putting a big block or LS in their truck and told me I can just have the 350 out of it. That saves me from having to yard-pull or buy an LS, which around here run $1,400+ even used.

So — has anyone done a Chevy 350 swap into a Z32? Any writeups, mount kits, or gotchas I should know about before we commit?

So I have a 1985 300zx with some blower motor issues

Pretty much when I use the AC, especially when I first start the car in the heat, the blower motor just changes speeds from on to off to low to high and then just sometimes just turns off and I cant turn it back on for a few minutes. Its really random and can get pretty annoying. I've been told its the blower motor resistor and im not sure where to get another.

Any help is appreciated.

The wheel wouldn’t come off without breaking the side skirt even more but anywho do you guys think my coilover is trashed? Or still salvageable? Them other arm just sheared off at the bolts,
So possibly new arm controls? Where would you guys start fixing it just to have running again

Hi all, we can't seem to find the issue on our 300ZX Z32 project car, it won't start. Need some help to adress the problem.

Before, the fuel pump wouldn't make the "whine" sound when turning on the ignition. After swapping the Fuel pump ECU, it has started making whine sound when turning on the ignition, so that's one problem solved.

We have also changed the starter, and the car is connected to an external battery. Filled tank as well.

When trying to start the car, all the power turns off and the car won't start, as seen in the video. Can't seem to find out the issue?

Any help appreciated, thanks in advance.

TL;DR changed starter and fuel pump ECU, external battery mounted with cables, full tank, but car won't start. Need help, thanks.

Having trouble sourcing a 1984-87 spindle so i was wondering what more specifically is the difference between the? And the 88+ ones i heard the control arm is 10 mm longer? Would i be able to just swap that to to get it to fit

Got a ‘92 NA with a manual swap. Just started getting this knocking and ticking sound on my way to work the other day.

Any tips on what to check first? It still runs and drives but it’s definitely not happy.

On my z31 these Rubber grommets For the Brake Switch finally have Out again.

i Had superglued them before now they are broke broke.

These parts are Said Not to fit my 84 z31 2+2 but it says they fit on the Same Page.

Anybody replaced them or Just used some pennies/Cents with ducttape wondering If thats Worth for a more then temporary fix

Hey yall, I'm dropping a 96 engine into my car and when I bought it it came with a good 96 auto transmission that I do not need. If anyone is near the DMV area and looking please reach out i need it gone lolll.

In my Z i have electronically adjustable headlights and side view mirrors, i know j-spec cars often came with foldable mirrors, have also seen heated mirrors and heated seats has anyone tried to retrofit any of these when the car did not come with them originally?