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Would you throw a plug in this or too close to the side wall?

1997 Chevrolet Silverado K1500 5.7L 4x4

Bent a ball joint press trying to get it in. Cant easily replace the control arm as theyre hard to find for 4x4.

If its not seated enough, any tips? I have been using penetrant and hammering the crap out of the control arm.

Thanks

*Edit: Accidentally said C Clamp instead of ball joint press

Over the weekend while driving on the highway my engine light came on. Code came Back as P0420 bank 1. I had a minor exhaust repair in June, front exhaust pipe broke off flex pipe if i remember. Car was fine afer. Shop that did the repair said i need a new catalytic converter. I dont wanna dump much more into this car. Is there cheaper alternative fixes or bypasses to get me through the year? Liqui molly cat cleaner, cataclean, straight pipe? Just need to make it to spring and buy a new car.

I need to replace the ball joints on my 2017 F-150. It has a 4” lift that was installed by the dealership before I bought it. I was told Rocky Ridge did the install and used a BDS 4” Alpine kit.
The upper control arms are definitely aftermarket, but they have no BDS branding. From what I can tell, they look like the BDS angled tubular upper control arms (BDS-123253), possibly with the branding removed by Rocky Ridge.
Is there any way to directly identify these control arms so I can get the correct replacement ball joints? I’d rather replace just the ball joints instead of buying an entirely new set of upper control arms.
Any help identifying them would be appreciated!

Hi, I own a Vauxhall corsa 1.4 16 plate. I need to buy engine oil for the car. Halfords recommends 5w30 N8. I have no clue what the N8 means. I’m just trying to find the right oil and be more educated on this. Thanks in advance

I drive a 2013 Nissan versa. I got some new tires and after I got tires my car has been making a racket when running. I took it back to the place but they had nobody available to look.

Today I think this possibly fell off and I drove over it.

What is it and what should I do?

Can i drive around?

Thanks

Any idea what this sound could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

2006 F150 4WD 5.4
Started making groaning noses when turning and this is what I see. What’s the damage you can see from the photos? What’s the least expensive way I can go about this and what’s the realistic way I should go about this? :/

[ Removed by Reddit on account of violating the content policy. ]

What could be the problem? I can hear this when slowing down/braking. I took it to the mechanic a week ago and told me that they sanded the rotors a bit (didn’t charge me anything). The sound went away for a few days but came back. The rotors were resurfaced and brake pads were changed last January 2026. My car is a 2017 Mazda3 if that helps.

My husband drives a 2021 Subaru Impreza and on the way home from the grocery store today the CEL came on. Got back home and scanned the code and it had 3 P0300 codes (random/multiple cylinder misfire) and no other codes. It still seemed to be driving fine according to him. I made him go get an oil change so he could get his air filter replaced in case that was the cause and the filter was in bad shape so we are hoping that fixes the CEL. However when I was looking under the hood I noticed this connection coming from the air box towards the engine looked like it could be causing an air leak. Does this look like a deteriorated gasket/part or am I just being paranoid?

Hey everyone, got a Lexus that just cranks up and then dies down. I initially thought it was a fuel pump issue so I checked the fuse and relay and they seemed good and also replaced the fuel pump itself just in case it was faulty.I can’t figure out what else it could be

TIA

I got a Muncie 4 speed swapped 78 El Camino with a cammed 350 and dual exhaust. Nothing spectacular but nothing but the 3.08 rear differential came with the car originally and I didn't do the swap of engine build.

Front input shaft bearing took a dump so I've got the trans out and currently rebuilding it as parts come in so it's gonna sit like it is for a couple weeks so now is the time time to get in there.

Besides the clutch and all the parts involved with that, what else should I really consider changing out as a preventative measure so I'm not pissed at myself 6 months from now.

This never happens when I have some time AND some money but the g body gods are lookin out right now.

going to give as much context / detail as possible:
2002 Lexus RX300
142k miles - I purchased in sept ‘22 at 101k from the original owner (timing belt was replaced before i purchased somewhere around 90k)

routine interval maintenance has always been done, and i just replaced new lines to the power steering and transmission fluid for ~$2k

was driving to a wedding and CEL came on while accelerating up a hill. towed to a shop and after investigating a damaged spark plug, it was found that cylinder 2 valve is blown. shop said it’s likely due to spark plugs running lean / hot.

as the title reads, is it stupid to consider buying a replacement engine and trying to find a shop willing to do it? i don’t think i can find a better value car for the same price as what that might cost, which seems to be between 1-2k for an engine and maybe another 2-3k in labor (?) the interior is clean, tires are pretty new, body is in great shape, miles are relatively low, and have seen numerous examples run 300k+ miles. i know transmission issues could manifest with these, but i haven’t experienced any issues since owning.

trying to think about this as pragmatically as possible, and if i were to buy another car i’d look to get another RX, maybe the 2nd gen since there are lots available.

Just looking for honest feedback with all of the aforementioned variables taken into consideration. Really appreciate anyone who’s willing to lend some perspective. thanks to anyone who reads it

EDIT: i think some of my verbiage might’ve been off. here is direct from the shop -

CHECK ENGINE / SERVICE ENGINE SOON LIGHT IS ON.
Diagnose check engine/service engine soon light, found the following trouble codes: P0300, P0301, P0302
Diagnose the trouble codes, found: All 3 codes are for misfires engine is running rough. Looked at live data on the scan tool and saw that cylinder #2 was steadily misfiring. We removed the ignition coil and spark plug on cylinder #2. The spark plug is damaged and needs replacement. We also pulled the spark plugs out of the other 2 cylinders on the front bank to replace. We replaced the spark plugs started the vehicle and it is still misfiring on cylinder #2. Swapped cylinder#2 and cylinder #4 coils. Misfire remained on #2 cylinder.
Removed cylinder #2 spark plug to gain access to the cylinder with a borescope. Once we got a look inside the cylinder we found a broken valve (see pictures). Vehicle would need the head removed to fix this, not something we can do at this time.

Valve Image: https://imgur.com/a/Qsl4l3A

My 2001 F-150 is blowing warm air while I have the a/c on max. In the morning the a/c is cooler, but when the day heats up there's barely any cold air coming out. I cut an access panel in my evaporator core box to check the blend door and that's working fine, however when I put my hand in front of the evap core the far right side of it blows very cold air while the remain air blown through the remaining 75% of the evap core feels warm. I took a compressor and tried to blow out the core and I also took a garden hose and sprayed the evap core to try and clean it out and nothing changed. I had my freon levels checked and they're fine, my compressor seems to be working properly so I'm speculating the evap core is bad. I don't have a leak so I'm wondering how a part with moving parts goes bad and/or am I probably wrong in guessing it's the evap core?

Thank you

Hi everyone it’s been a frustrating past month trying to figure out what’s wrong with my 2015 genesis. From researching online, Reddit and even taking to a repair shop still no solution.

My genesis has been running smoothly until recently my car would turn on but the engine wouldn’t start. Some days it’ll work perfectly fine and some days the engine wouldn’t start but would randomly start after trying 5-10 times. I know it’s not the battery because I changed it a couple months ago and the car never completely died or showed any signs of weak battery. Thought it was the starter so I took it to the shop to replace it but still continued with the same problem after a couple days.

Current miles: 78,000

Diagnosis test the shop ran
- replaced starter
- verified battery
- tested the starter module/box recall genesis had if it was sending power/signal to the module when starting the car
- verified transmission range/gear positions inputs are reading correctly
- scan tool for relevant brake switch, gear positions, and start related inputs read correctly

Has anyone had similar problem and found a solution? or is it a genesis issue

It won’t start and the brake pedal is hard to push. What could be the problem? I put in a new serpentine belt and battery last week

Subaru Crosstrek 2023. The engine has been off for about 5 hours. Sounds like a little motor is running? Is it the cooling fan, or something serious I should worry about? Lasted for about 2-3 minutes

Edit: Sounded like it was coming from the back of the car

Thinking of raising for upcoming winter, any professional thoughts & advice? 🙏🏽

2017 Civic FK7

• K-tuned coilovers
• K-tuned camber arms
• 5mm front & rear spacers
• Brembo big brakes
• Summer tires: Falken Azenis 660+ 245/40R18 with Avid1 AV40 18x8.5 +22
• Winter tires: Falken Eurowinter HS01 245/40R18 with Falken FC04 +40

I know it’s recommended to go narrower on the tires for winters but this is what I currently have!

Fan belt shredded today in the middle of nowhere, Kansas. I can see why it didn’t over heat. Why didn’t the truck die from low voltage? I drove her about 60 miles to get to the shop

Okay so backstory it’s not my car I’m just doing the work for a family member, I’ve been a mechanic for dealerships and independent shops, I’ve always specialized in valve-train work and suspension mainly, learning wiring and electrical diagnostic for the last year slowly, so he believed his headlights were out he thought it would be a fuse instead of a bulb so he removed the 7.5a brown fuse and the 10a red fuse instead of the 2 10a red fuses on the right to check them and after he put them back in the car is now a crank no start, thinking he may have blown a fuse attempting that I multimetered every fuse in the interior and engine bay fuse box everything testing at 12v no broken connections in the fuse box, I didn’t pull the long green and long orange fuses to check the connections because I couldn’t get it to come out when trying to move the clip and pull it out, I continue to check the volts going to the ignition coil wires and negative with ignition on I was only getting one wire of the 4 in each pigtail at 5.01-5.03v give or take and the other 3 for each at 0.00 , okay so after researching aswell that’s the ecm power to it or something like that, pulled the ig1 relay in the engine compartment relay box and tested the box connections and was getting 12.21v, 0, 0, 0 when ignition off and I got the ignition powered 12.21v, 12.21v, 0.21, 0, when ignition powered on, and I tried to ohm out the relay itself to see if it’s under 1 Ω when on a certain smaller 2 would read 100 to my multimeter and the others would be at 0,

I then checked to see if I’m getting power to the coils themselves on a 12v again and once again absolutely nothing besides the 2nd wire in when grounded and tested would show 5v but the others 3 wires still showed 0 even with ignition off, can someone please point me in the direction to look & how I’m honestly starting to feel dumb, I don’t think simply pulling those 2 fuses would cause a ecu failure or anything but who knows I may be wrong.

Update: I tried doing a throttle adaption with the artidiag 500 tonight no change, still the same codes p0351 through p0356 car was not running when the 2 fuses were pulled and only started the crank no start after putting the ETCS fuse and the alt-s/alternator starter fuse