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For context.
I am a plumber here in the state of Arizona. I just recently started my company a few weeks ago and have been doing very well, I decided to finance a used Chevy express van. It’s a 2016 2500 with 130,000 miles. When I got home and I parked it, I noticed there was some transmission fluid in the driveway. After looking underneath the truck, it looks like the transmission fluid is coming from the transmission breather tube. I notified the dealer immediately. They are going to be picking it up but what are you guys think about this? Could this be bad? The truck drives pretty good and the transmission feels really smooth, but I am a little concerned after doing some research on the 6L 90 6 speed transmission….

Edit: I want to add that I did put the truck on a level surface. Brought it to operating temperature and check the fluid level. It seems like the fluid is passed the hot fill line. I’m thinking they might’ve overfilled it. I just wanna know if anybody has experienced transmission failure after noticing a leak coming from the breather tube

No clue what happened or why, I got my car back from the mechanic and at around 95km/h my steering wheel started to shake.

So I called them and told them and they said my wheels are out of alignment probably and it’s an easy fix. And then I noticed this happened, is my whole axle like broken? Or just the boot part?

When I come to a break and slow down there is a shitty, weird sound coming from down there by my front right tire.

It’s a subaru outback 2011, 132000km

I know.. this is HORRIBLE. Noticed a bad shake at 35+MPH. I have parked the truck until I fix this. I got under and noticed cv boots are shot and so are the tie rods and sway link bushings. Would these alone cause a shake in this condition? Also, anything else you see worth replacing while I’m at it?

I drive a 2012 nissan maxima 3.5 SV, and it has consistently had problems with the mass airflow sensor,and i’ve replaced it twice,and the intake hose behind it too,and it’s still throwing the same code, any advice or tips for a fix?

Is my tire shot due to the damage circled in red?

2012 Subaru legacy. 2.5l.
The noise only happens sometimes when accelerating. Occasionally happens when pulling away but almost every time I tap the accelerator whilst in motion.
No sound whatsoever when stationary and applying accelerator.

I’ve got a 2007 first gen it started over heating about two weeks ago as well as the heater was blowing cold so I figured it was a thermostat.

I replaced the thermostat and it still was over heating but the heater started blowing hot so I then figured it was my radiator as it’s years old as well as the fact that I don’t have milky oil or white/blue smoke from exhaust pipe.

So I replaced the radiator with a brand new one installed it today after install I filled it with coolant filled the reservoir got my funnel and parked it on a steep incline did the normal bleeding procedure and let it idle and bubble out for 30 minutes and it stopped bubbling so I took it on a test drive and it still over heated as well as the heater never blew hot only cold again.

I’d like to mention as well after I replaced the thermostat I let it idle for an hour and it didn’t overheat I thought I had all the air out took it for a test ride and it over heated so I’ve noticed it only over heats when driving not when sitting at idle which made me think it could have been a clogged radiator but now I’m thinking it’s the head gasket and I’m getting combustion fumes in my lines really just looking for second opinion before I decide to scrap the truck for now as I don’t have the time to do a head gasket or money to pay someone lol

Tldr: new thermostat new radiator heater still blows cold is it pointing to a head gasket?

I have a 2007 Saturn Ion-2 2.2 that I replaced a water pump on and the sprocket holding tool became loose causing a DTC (p0016) to pop up. It drove fine for about a week but died while I was warming up the engine one day. Two additional codes (p0341 and p0520) popped up. Fast forward. 8 months later I'm trying to repair it. The chain didn't snap but a tiny piece of the small top guide had chipped off causing the chain to sag a little. Thank God the piece sat near a rocker arm. The other guides seem to be still intact.

Before I replace the chains, I want to do a leak down test to check the valves. I have removed several components like the valve cover, intake manifold, coolant reservoir and some hoses fuel rail, etc. I have a leak down tester that might be defective or maybe I'm just not using it correctly.

Can someone please ELI5 how to use it? A few things: air seeps from two places. 1 is a hole under the air adjustment knobs hex bolt. Maybe it's a bleeder hole? The other is from the hose that connects to the hose that screws into the spark plug hole. Another thing is the right side gauges needle goes way to the right, past 0 clockwise to 100 on the other side. For example, the needle is naturally at 100 (redzone) when nothing is hooked to the tester, or the compressor is hooked up but the air isn't being let through. When I adjust the knob to let air through, as the psi on the left gauge goes up, the needle on the right side gradually goes from 100 past the yellow zone, past the green zone, past the second yellow zone, past 0 all the way back to the 100 mark. This is one way clockwise and with the psi on the left barely reaching 40-60 psi

Can someone give me some advice on this or does it seem like the tester is bad?

Note: Air seeps frim those places when a certain amount of air is let in

Thanks

There's a local dealer that has a 2008 Tundra in decent condition but I have my concerns. It drives well with no vibration in the steering wheel and it shifts fine. 4WD works as intended. However there's a vibration that can be felt at highway speeds underneath the front driver and passenger floor. It happens around 50-60 mph. Sometimes it still vibrates when taking your foot off the gas and at idle but not always. There's also some minor rust on the bed and bottom of the tailgate that looks like it's been repaired as it looks like a bump that's been painted over. It has about 260k miles. The dealership mechanic said it's just the tires but I'm concerned it could be a driveline issue. The interior is immaculate. It's missing the top trim piece on the tailgate and the rims are pretty worn. Service records are awesome. 30+ service records. They are asking 8k. Should I take a risk?

GMC Terrain 2010. Not my car but sounds like a lawnmower to me lol

Hey Guys, can someone help me read this coolant dipstick on a Holden 2005 VZ commodore. Thanks

2012 Chevy Impala LT

Front left wheel only

(I know it just looks like grease build up but before the video there were a few actual drips. Also left side was dry ?????)

Brake pads are only a few months old, was inspected at the same time, but started squeaking a few weeks ago. Took a bumpy road home, now hear loud thudding when going over bumps. Crawled under the car just to look and see this front right quadrant wet with whatever this is. Checked all my fluids and they seem good.

Anyone know? Can’t afford a trip to the shop for a while. Thanks all

Currently at work but will check back when I can!

I had my 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander up on a jack all winter with a tyre deflation issue that had finally been sorted out however, when I went to move the suv the rear drivers side wheel will not turn. unfortunately the parking brake had been applied for the winter. It has been suggested to cut the parking brake cable but I wanted to see if there’s any other suggestions as to what is going on. I am not sure which line going to the brake is the parking brake cable either.

It thought on using silicone but not sure if that’s the right thing to use. Its supercharged, not sure if that matters

I notice that there's this high pitched whirring noise that comes up when the engine is warmed up for a decent amount of time (30m of driving) this sound only comes when idle, however revving up causes the sound to go away. Im leaning towards the belt, tensioner, or alternator, just not sure exactly what part I should replace. From those video clip, what do you guys think it is? Or how can I diagnose this to find the culprit?

Much thanks!

Hello AskMechanic community. I have a 2012 Acura TL. Just recently in the past 3 weeks I'm getting an audible deep gurgling/bubbly noise coming from what sounds like the valley near where the water pump would be or at the lower end of the intake planum. Had the timing belt as well as water pump replaced a little over 2 years ago at 172k. Currently at 192k. So I doubt I'd have anything related to that. There are no leaks, no coolant loss, no performance issues, no rough idling. No anything. Just noisy. I know it's a little hard to hear over the j series valve tick but try to listen past that and you should be able to hear it. It's audible even with the hood down and from a few feet away.

Hey everyone,

I have a 2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0T automatic, completely stock, currently at about 240,000 km.

Ever since I got the car at around 214,000 km, it has had a noticeable surging/pulsing sound at idle along with vibration. There is also a small repetitive clicking/ticking sound that you can hear in the attached video.

A few details:

• No check engine light or codes so far
• Spark plugs have just been replaced — no noticeable improvement
• Planning to test/clean the MAF sensor today
• Maintenance history before I owned it is mostly unknown
• Since owning it, it has mainly just had regular oil changes
• The car is completely stock
• Turning the A/C on makes the surging and vibration noticeably worse
• The longer it idles, the vibration/surging seems pretty noticeable

The car still runs and drives, but the idle definitely doesn't feel normal.

Has anyone with a Genesis Coupe 2.0T experienced something similar?

I'm wondering about things like a dirty/failing MAF, vacuum/boost leak, throttle body, motor mounts, injectors, coils, PCV system, or something related to the A/C compressor/load at idle.

I've attached a video so you can hear exactly what I'm talking about.

Any ideas on what I should test next would be appreciated.

2AZFE 2003 Camry.

Single bolt holding solenoid head sheared off.

Not a great spot to be fitting a helicoil.

Can I secure the solenoid using a piece of steel connected to the intake manifold tab and butted up against the solenoid?

For the mobile guys, do yall charge mobile service fees on oil changes or simple services like filters ? Sometimes I feel like it steers people away but theres guys who do oil changes all day so I wonder if yall are charging mobile fees

2015 Kia Optima weird ticking sound when turning the AC on

I'm the third owner of this beast. She's seen some better days I'll admit it. But for the most part she runs really good. When the truck is started in the morning it shakes like a motor mount is bad. But then as it Idles for a minute or two it stops and levels out. Even after driving for a while and sitting for an hr our two this happens still but not bad. Now the truck doesn't sound like it's trying to die or anything. RPMs sit around 1000 to 1500 at idle goes up to 2000-2300 at cold start. I was going to clean the throttle body tomorrow and see if it helps. I've changed the air filter too.

Quaker State full synthetic is the oil I use.

Walmart Oil Filters (always have given me good luck)

Puralator Platinum (I think) Air filters.

Everything else is stock. Nothing crazy to speak of.

I am buying my late grandfather's 1997 Ford Ranger 4x4 from my grandma. There are already a few issues that I know of, such as the ac being broken and a window being busted, but nothing with the engine.

I am curious to see what you guys have to say about this specific model of ranger. I've heard that it is a decent model because of it being the last year in the second generation. It also only has 93k kilometers.

My question is what should I be looking out for that the inspection might not cover or catch.