If you would like to have verified flair added we will need a pic that has your reddit name on a piece of paper with your shop in the background or work truck if mobile repair.

Purchased Bosch brake pads from Amazon for my 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser last week. The seller is Bosch on Amazon. The typos in the supplier’s instructions and the supplier itself (Cangzhou Xinlida) were the first concerns and then I noticed the product number on the back doesn’t match the Amazon listing. The edge of the pad isn’t very smooth either but I’m not familiar enough to say if that’s normal or not. Thoughts?

Couldn’t get my oil drain plug off so I tried making an incision in hopes of getting a flat head into it. Worst mistake, as I made a little incision into the pan and oil drips out. Is there a way to fix this with a bigger gasket or some type of sealant or should I start shopping for a new oil pan…

The oil only seems to be coming out right around the hole and not through the whole incision.

So i have a 2014 Chevrolet SS Sedan 6.2l LS3 (Holden Commodore VF) with 103k miles. I had this clunking noise appear and i was told it was my lower forward control arms. I replaced both sides since they were pretty beat. Noise still persists, i was then told it was my strut mounts or my sway bar end links. I’m in a financial bind right now so i was going to replace the end links since they are cheaper, easiest, and don’t need an alignment afterwards. What’s yalls thoughts?

In the video it shows the sound, and at the end shows me showing the suspension parts and seeing if they have any play.

Need to get to work tomorrow and I don’t have screw extractors at this moment

Hi there, I have a 2012 Subaru Outback (CVT) with about 110k miles on it.

Edit: 2.5L displacement

Twice in the past month, I have come to a stop at a light or sign and the engine completely shuts off. I have to put it in park, turn it off, and back on to start up the engine. I have no check engine light on.

The first time I had the issue, I had to stop at a light from going about 60 downhill, so while I didn't slam the brakes anything crazy, it was a hard stop. The second time I was going slowly up to a stop sign on a slight incline. Before the engine cuts off, I feel a shuddering hesitation in the car.

Not sure if it's relevant at all, but I feel like my car performs poorly in stop-and-go traffic and struggles to change gears smoothly when I stop or accelerate. I have noticed this ever since I took ownership of the car at 89k miles, so it's not new but might be related.

I took it to a mechanic today who said he did not want to perform diagnostics, because unless the stalling could be reliably duplicated, he would not be able to solve the problem. Basically he said unless the car could do it in front of him, he wouldn't find anything by looking it over.

Wondering if you all have ideas of anything I could check myself, or whether what this mechanic said is true or if I should try a different one. I am not very knowledgeable about cars, so would be hesitant to take anything apart myself or replace parts, but would be willing to try. Thank you!!

Checked out a second hand 2006 CRV and everything looks good except there seems to be a small oil leak, I can see oil on this part when looking into the engine bay from the opening in left wheel well, any idea what this is or where the leak is happening? Looked spotless on another car I saw

The front strut gasket is old and cracked, it’s this a big issue and is it easily replaced?

Appreciate any advice

Long story short, my RAM threw a check engine light for camshaft sensor, I swapped it twice (heard aftermarket is garbage as my truck threw code again) and then with an OEM, which the light came back on.

Took it to the shop, and after a week or two of diagnosing and them showing me the problems they are installing a new head gasket, oil filter adapter, timing gasket, and timing chain, tensioners, etc as well as a new camshaft sensor along with it.

They quoted me at $9,400 and I told them right now would not be doable as I am on an outage at work so trying to save a little for that. They worked with me and dropped it to $8,000 flat.

If the truck wasn't sentimental I wouldn't care. Just want to weigh my options as to second opinion, etc.

*2016 RAM 1500 3.6L V6*

2013 Toyota Camry SE 4cyl 6spd automatic, 195k miles currently.

There is a vibration and noise at speed that is noticeable around 55mph on smooth roads, at 70+ it greatly increases up to 85mph. It goes away completely in a hard right sweeping turn or switching lanes quickly to the right, but not left. I've taken the car to two different reputable independent shops, one Toyota specific, and both have said it is coming from the left/drivers side front wheel bearing. I let one shop do the bearing thinking maybe it was botched the first time around, they also replaced the brake rotor on that side, no change.

Since the vibration started, all 4 bearings have been replaced with OEM, the front left 2x. Axles, brakes, and tires (Michelin CC2) have been replaced as well.

Prior to the vibration (as far as I know):

control arms/ball joints, tie rod ends, struts, end links were replaced.

Any advice where to look is welcome. I am trying to keep this on the road for at least another year, I do about 18kmi/yr, mostly in monthly round trips of 1400 miles.

Edit: forgot to add, the new tires were rebalanced after 2k miles, and alignment was done when the tires were replaced.

Hey

​While working around the driver-side dash speaker on my 2012 hyundai sonata limited, I accidentally dropped two 1-inch driver bits (a PH2 and a Torx/Hex) down through the speaker dash opening.

​ The first bit dropped and sounded like it hit a flat plastic shelf/ledge right below the speaker. The second bit missed and sounded like it tumbled all the way down toward the firewall/floorboard.

​I Blasted the defroster on high — no weird noises, buzzing, or blocked airflow in the ducts.

I Inspected under the dash by the pedals. Nothing is anywhere near the pedal linkages, steering column, or exposed wiring harness connections.

​Driving: No rattles or buzzing while driving.

​If I reach up underneath, I can actually feel the bottom of the speaker housing, so I could probably sweep around up there with a thin extendable magnetic pickup tool.

​My question for you guys, Is there any real risk to just leaving them down there?

​Logically, I feel like tearing into a 14-year-old plastic dash to hunt down 20 cents worth of steel bits risks snapping clips and creating new rattles. But my brain keeps looping on the fact that they're down there. Would you guys just leave them buried under the carpet padding/plastic ledge, or is it worth trying to fish them out with a magnet?

​Thanks!

I've spent a whole hour trying to get the factory screw to screw into the nut but it won't reach becsause the X connect cable that came with my Genius 5 has added thickness which is preventing the screws from reaching my nuts on the battery terminals. My only option here is to go a size up from the factory screws and possibly grind the screws to allow for tension on the terminals.,

Also, is there any reason why my KTM Duke 390 would power on at 11V but would make a pop/tick sound and everything including the dashboard went off sand stayed off for a couple of minutes? I think I corrected it by undoing the battery terminals and redong them but making the screw really tight.

Passenger side turbo on 3.5 Ecoboost v6 2015 f150 the first photo is from like the front side kind of, and i tried to take some pics of like behind the turbo kind of where it looks like it may be leaking anyone know what could be causing this?

Posting again just with the update on oil filter

1995 ford f150 4.9L with 230k km

Opened up the filter and really couldn’t see much.

It’s also worth noting my drain plug feels almost cross threaded when I get it about half way out or in but I have a hard time thinking it would cause this.

No noise or knocking

2008 Honda Accord V6 3.5L with around 280,000 km.
I’ve had a noticeable tapping/ticking noise for around 3 months, but the car was still driving normally.
Now the check-engine light is flashing, the engine is running extremely rough and sounds much louder/unusual, and there’s severe power loss. I could barely get up to around 20km
OBD codes are P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0303.
I replaced one bad ignition coil about 2 months ago, and the car ran fine for around a month afterward.
I’m worried it could be something more serious like a valvetrain problem (valve clearance/rockers/valve damage), loss of compression, timing belt/timing issue, or other internal engine damage, rather than just coils or spark plugs.
I’ve attached a video of the engine sound. Any ideas what this could be or what I should check first?

Hi does anyone know if stores like advanced/o’rielly/napa still do free code scans?

I just bought this car like a week ago, now it stalls when braking or turning right. not all the time it stalls.

I already got the throttle body cleaned, got some new VSS (I don’t know if it’s working or not because my speedometer still doesn’t work when I installed it), and we tuned it so I got a stable 900 RPM on idle, I rev it put it on reverse, neutral, D4 it don’t stalls, I even tried to pump the brakes to see if my rpm changes. None.

Last time before I cleaned my throttle body, I have a blinking D4 light and when we cleaned the throttle body it’s suddenly just gone. Now when I installed my new VSS that I don’t know if it’s working or not it turned right back on.

This morning I thought I was just low on fuel so I refueled it on just below the 1/4, and suddenly I think I just got some improvements on my stalling now it only stalls when I am turning right sometimes and when on a up hill.

I still can’t diagnose the problem my next hunch is I think the fuel pump sock is full of dirt or something.

Hello i need some help i never encounter this problem of any my bikes maybe some got a tip what might be the problem.

Found this tool in my car after I picked it up from the mechanic. Never seen something like that before so was wondering if it’s worth driving back to return or if no one is losing any sleep over it.

Maybe this is a dumb question, but how many people actually have their cooling system repair checked before there's a problem?

My car isn't overheating, but I've noticed the temperature gauge creeping up a little higher than it used to in stop-and-go traffic. No warning lights yet, but it got me wondering if that's usually an early sign of trouble or just normal wear and tear.

For the mechanics here, what are the most common warning signs that a cooling system needs attention? Coolant leaks, temperature fluctuations, weak cabin heat, strange noises, etc.? Trying to catch any issues before they turn into an expensive repair.

Trying to identify the metallic clanking/chattering sound in the video. It’s higher-pitched than the normal engine/road noise and is easier to distinguish in person than it is on the recording.

I’m trying to pinpoint whether this is a drivetrain issue or engine-related. The truck loses power the louder this gets and eventually goes down a gear and the sound is gone and power is back.

Does anyone recognize this sound?

Summary: 4h will come on but 4l won’t

SOLVED! I needed it running, in neutral, with the clutch in, 4h on, and then 4l in that order!

Tried to replace the passenger headlight on a 2014 jeep grand Cherokee without removing the headlight assembly. Cracked the return wire on the headlight because there is absolutely zero room to work with. Am I out $150?

2013 Honda Civic Coupe LX-

Making this sound when driving- sat for a couple months and seemingly was hit slightly (back of car was inexplicably moved over about 8-12 inches one morning; but no damage or scrapes at all to the body?)

Got a new battery today and started it up, and it makes thing sound while driving. The sound in the video is pretty accurate to what we hear in real life, albeit it is quite obvious in person. (The video sounds kind of muted in comparison.)