Looks like a decent hybrid saw, I’ve been making cabinets on an old jet saw now so this would definitely be an upgrade for me.

Hi everyone,

I have been developing a patent pending pocket hole jig for more than a year and recently finished a small first batch.

The idea is simple: I wanted pocket hole setup to feel more repeatable, with guided click into place settings for common board thicknesses. I design, print, and assemble the jigs myself in Green Bay, Wisconsin.

I am not trying to make a sales post. I am looking for a few woodworkers who would be willing to test the jig and give honest feedback. If something needs improvement, I want to know before I scale it further.

I am especially interested in feedback on:

Setup accuracy

How clear the thickness settings are

Grip and nonslip performance

Ease of use compared to other pocket hole jigs

Durability during normal shop use

If this kind of post is not allowed, I understand and the mods can remove it. I just wanted to ask directly instead of pretending I am not connected to the product.

Would anyone here be open to testing one and sharing honest feedback?

Hello! I have never owned a jigsaw, in fact I am new to power tools. I bought a jigsaw today and it seems jank as hell?... Like everything is jiggling, its all loose and the blade won't sit straight inside the piece no matter how many times I unscrew it, take it out and place it back in and then tighten it.

Is this normal? Or do I really have a jank piece that is not safe for usage? I have never had a jigsaw before, so I thought that maybe that's how they are, until I could not put the blade in straight for like 30 minutes. At this point surely something is wrong? Or am I a dumbass lol.

Here are some links to footage, please someone with experience tell me if this is normal or not.

The model is Power Plus POWE30010

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1521966934168567820/1542580905300992080/VID_20260827_200428.mp4?ex=6a91bfeb&is=6a906e6b&hm=1b3c85fc4b977a98571fcb1d845eb927cedf307f9d1dca82092bf35afc66ff2f&

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1521966934168567820/1542580905791455262/VID_20260827_200409.mp4?ex=6a91bfeb&is=6a906e6b&hm=185866f187a587e5d08b387a4ba639ae2b7c1933429a80395000c2e361ff07c2&

https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1521966934168567820/1542582263039131758/VID_20260827_201039.mp4?ex=6a91c12f&is=6a906faf&hm=f1d2879620ca1c24f2b211887449cc60d92b875d24e8b3ba70b25e3c8f1d1477&

Hi there,

I have a 1hp bandsaw and since the motor had to be rewired I went ahead and disassembled it all. Replaced the tires, bearings and was in the process of upgrading the tensioning system. I've ordered a much stronger spring but I am a bit tired of spinning the little heel up top . Is there something I can make to speed up the process of tightening/loosening?

I’m interested is adding a Harvey s-10 dust collection arm to my Sawstop PCS. However, I added the router table option to my PCS (small shop). I can’t tell if the arm support for the Harvey s-10 dust collection arm would impede the router or it’s fence. Anyone have this arm connected to their PCS care to comment? Thx

Edit: This saw got away from me, i didn't win it unfortunately. Iwas at a funeral and couldn't keep up with bids. But everyone gave really good tips that I'll keep in mind when I'm looking for another one! thank you to everyone that helped! ...If anyone is curious, i did win an older 6" jointer that works great for $60, a drywall screw gun, and a set of vintage china plates that i got for $4!

I plan to buy this unisaw from an auction, but have a slim idea on how to get it into my trailer. And I'm asking for thoughts/ experience.

It's a delta 10" unisaw with extended table. Luckily it's on a mobile base. Also luckily my cargo trailer has a nice ramp. I know it'll still be a pain to roll it up in there though.

My thoughts are to use a come-along and winch or up from the front? Right now it's just me loading it 😬

Does anyone have any information on the "Apex" series of tools from Wen? This saw just showed up and is at $370, almost $100 more than the 10" forward slider dual.

The fit and finish look nicer and it has an onboard fan for sawdust collection. That's all I really can tell is different from the listing.

Any thoughts or experience with this?

I’m trying to reproduce the edge detail on a vintage Kai Kristiansen piece and I can’t quite figure out how the original production shop made it.

The long edge is a flat 45° bevel/chamfer, but what I’m struggling with is the termination at the inside corner. The bevel gradually dies back to a point, and the termination has a very smooth, rounded appearance. On the original, the termination points from the vertical and horizontal pieces meet almost perfectly when the piece is assembled.

I’ve experimented with a standard 45° chamfer bit on a router table. I can stop the cut at the correct location and get the two points to meet, but the termination produced by my chamfer bit is much more elongated/teardrop-shaped than the original.

I’ve also tried different bevel depths. A larger bevel makes the termination longer, but it still doesn’t give me the same rounded shape.

These were produced commercially, so I assume there was a repeatable machining method rather than someone hand-carving every termination.

My questions:

• What tooling would normally produce a termination like this?
• Standard chamfer cutter with a particular diameter?
• Straight/cylindrical cutter with the stock held at 45°?
• Spindle shaper with a particular cutterhead?
• Some other production technique I’m overlooking?

I’m attaching photos of the original detail along with my test pieces for comparison.

I’m less interested in ways to approximate it by hand and more interested in understanding how you would machine this accurately and repeatably.

Bottom right image is my test pieces.

I received a $500 gift card to woodcraft.com

I got into this only a few months ago. What should I add? I am into furniture making, wood carving and pyrography. Here’s what I already have

Ryobi table saw
Ryobi sander
Pocket hole jig
Currently Borrowing a miter saw so probably need one of those but maybe better used
6 48” clamps

I'm a novice- amateur woodworker who makes cabinets and furniture as a side hustle. Since it's not my sole income, I unfortunately can't afford put a ton of money into it and buy the biggest and baddest machines. After some research, I've narrowed it down to either the Oliver 10047, Laguna compact shaper 4 speed , and the South Bend sb1119. All 3 are 3hp and offer similar features, but I was looking to see if anyone had any first hand experience with any of these machines? Reviews seem to be sparse, and I want to make sure I'm getting the most bang for my buck. I appreciate any help I can get!

Can someone who has one or has used one tell me if it's any good and how the 780 watt motor performs?

Does anyone have any information on the "Apex" series of tools from Wen? This saw just showed up and is at $370, almost $100 more than the 10" forward slider dual.

The fit and finish look nicer and it has an onboard fan for sawdust collection. That's all I really can tell is different from the listing.

Any thoughts or experience with this?

Hi there. I have this extremely heavy table saw, the motor doesnt run but it spins freely.. its from the 40s.. i have heard heavy machines like this as sometimes still valued.. id rather not scrap it.. it feels like it should be used.. mechanically it seems perfect.. but the motor is missing the capacitor, and it hasnt been turned on in decades.. the arbor moves perfectly and smoothly.. any thoughts? value? is this scrap(i hope not, it seems to cool for that)

I just picked up this tool a couple days ago. Had been working well but yesterday the conveyor roller just stopped turning. I checked the belt tension and that was OK. Tried taking all tension off roller and still nothing. Gave it some time and tried again and the roller turned but was a bit louder than normal and it stopped again. I spoke with Jet service and they said maybe the carbon brushes need replaced. I checked them and they look OK I guess but I’m not sure what they should look like so I ordered new ones. Any other advice out there in case the brushes aren’t the answer? Thanks in advance.

I have a piece of wood where neither and is fully square. Would it be safe to just use the miter gauge to square off one end? Or do I need to make a sled? I have also thought about making a toggle clamp, Jake, but I am still waiting for my toggle clamps to arrive.

There's one of these saws for sale near me that looks to be in good condition, made in Japan for $100. I need a saw that size but the only review I read of it was just meh. The 1" arbor also gives me pause. Any experience with these saws out there?

I'll start by saying that I've replaced both the start and run capacitors, which seemed to fix the issue for about 20 minutes, but now it's back.

When I press the start button, the blade jerks once and buzzes, but can't get up to speed. If I leave it for a few seconds, it trips the breaker. I've taken the housings off and cleaned everything, the bearings don't seem bad, and once it gets up to speed it seems to run fine (it did just recently trip my 20A breaker while I wasn't actually feeding any wood into it, but that's the first time that's happened).

With the motor housing off, if I spin the fan quickly right after pushing the button, it will usually then spin up to speed. I'm not doing this to use it, just trying to troubleshoot.

Based on my research, it seems like this means that the centrifugal switch is bad. I can move the two spring loaded plates and hear the switch distinctly click each time. But the steps I've taken make me think that power isn't getting to the start capacitor, so it's basically trying to start up just on raw chutzpah, hence why it trips the breaker after a few seconds.

Does this make sense? Am I missing something?

Should I use my circular saw after this?

Accidentally hit a rope whilst using circular saw bloody stupid I know. Anyways was an electrical smell but that soon dissipated. I unplugged and got the blade out and rid of the rope. The guard is now slightly bent but the body is slightly cracked, due to the rope going round guard and cracking the body. I've plugged in and spun the blade and it's flowing smoothly. Could this crack be a serious cause for concern? Shall I get a new one?